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Old 08-10-2012, 07:37 AM   #326
561wrx
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Nice work
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:57 AM   #327
soccer05
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Whiteline 24mm Adjustable front sway bar all prepped for install. I wrap the mounting points in teflon tape to reduce friction and noise, then throw the mounting grease supplied by Whiteline over the teflon and mount. Starting to get things all buttoned up to start this baby up.


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Old 08-10-2012, 03:34 PM   #328
soccer05
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Nice work
Thanks, glad you liked it should be nice when it's back on the road

Last edited by soccer05; 08-11-2012 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:40 PM   #329
soccer05
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Front Sway bar installed just snug. It is important to not tighten sway bars to final torque specs until the car is at ride height to prevent preloading the suspension. Sway bar is all greased up riding on a thin layer of teflon tape to reduce friction and noise. Here is my kick *** Mooresport MSI spherical front endlinks. I started a thread so the community could find out about these parts, as I truely feel they are step above what is typically found in the aftermarket scene. I feel it is essential to have a high quality spherical endlink to get the most out of your swaybars and suspension. They allow 0 compliance, so as seen as the sway bar moves it is transferring force into the chassis, allows proper corner balancing (corner balancing sucks with rubber and is only slightly better with polyurethane). I had a bad experience with my previous spherical endlinks wearing out at what I felt was a rapid rate, and these use very high quality spherical bearings. I can not tell you how much searching I did to find a set of endlinks to meet my needs, so hopefully that explains why I am so excited to find a part that met my needs and price point.

Car is starting to look pretty good, and like a car again...


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Old 08-13-2012, 02:02 PM   #330
soccer05
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Front Sway bar bolted up, endlinks adjusted to approximate length for corner balancing. Notice the little things in this picture, header coated to help spool the big turbo, front suspension arm has much of the anti lift taking out of it, when at ride height the lower control arms are parrallel to the ground to ensure proper suspension geometry with a lowered stance, etc. It costs a little more, but I much prefer the look of functional performance over the stance nation.


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Last edited by soccer05; 08-14-2012 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:29 PM   #331
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex View Post
When you do the hub and tranny swap are you keeping the r160? Also are you going to use 5x100 redrill hubs on the 05 hubs, like what LIC offers?
No, I will not be reusing the r160. I will be upgrading to an r180 rear diff, and hopefully a slightly more aggressive limited slip (like an os giken or carbonetic) with some of the discs disabled to balance the lockup with my power level, and the discs will be wpc treated to ensure smooth lockup and reduce chatter. If I am going to spend the money on the swap I want the stronger diff and rear brembos.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:58 PM   #332
soccer05
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As I mentioned the other day, I am a little behind on this build thread. I buttoned up my immediate projects, triple checked all torque settings, fluids, and connectors. Then cranked the car over and miraculously, the old subie fired right up. I can't tell you how happy just that made me, as I was so worried that I had ****ed something up and would be spending a month tracking down a gremlin or two that was preventing the car from getting tuned and back on the road.

I must say the wrx sounds downright viscious, the Perrin header, APS up-pipe and 3 inch catback exhaust give it a definite menace, a good deep throaty sound. I joke around and say it sounds like a pissed off go cart. So I had reflashed an OTS Cobb accessport stage 2 tune for 91 octane gas per CObb's recommendation, although they said the equal length manifold would make the tune not optimal for driving around, but fine to bleed the air out of the coolant. I have a fire extinguisher at the ready, as the header wrap is smoking constantly, as they do for the first couple heat cycles. So I bleed the coolant, with a carefull eye on all dash gauges, and notice I have an oil leak, that has dumped about a half quart of oil on the ground over ten minutes at idle. Frustrating to say the least, but at least the car fired up properly. My first instict was that I had either blown the rear main seal or the Killer Bee oil pan had a leak in the rear (like I had not tightened properly the pan bolts), as it was coming down over my power steering rack.

Fortunately I have had the car broken down and completely apart, so I know how to do this process relatively easily. First off drop my headers..


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Old 08-14-2012, 01:02 PM   #333
soccer05
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Unbolt the motor mounts from the subframe, then jack up the engine so I can access the back of the pan. The back of the pan is dry as a rock, so that was not my leak. I checked around my flywheel, no oil there (thank god I would have been pissed if my 800 dollar flywheel and clutch was covered in oil). So I start snooping around and find this. The picture is hard to see but my oil return line is attached to the block but not to the turbo. I remember at the time thinking, wow these are really flimsy and a half *** solution, but its oem I'll roll with it. Now I have to get this hose back on. Fortunately, with the GTX turbo all these fluid connections will utilize AN fittings so there will be no leaks. Also, I was lucky and none of the oil got on my Up-pipe or header wrap.


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So, fortunately I know what the problem is, didn't seriously damage anything, and can now fix the issue.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:43 PM   #334
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I lost 3 quarts from that same damn line. Mine got kinked on install and I didn't realize it since I was rushing. Scared the hell out of me when my car was idling waiting to go tuning and I backed up to a huge puddle stretching from tire to tire...
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:37 PM   #335
soccer05
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I lost 3 quarts from that same damn line. Mine got kinked on install and I didn't realize it since I was rushing. Scared the hell out of me when my car was idling waiting to go tuning and I backed up to a huge puddle stretching from tire to tire...
Yeah that line definitely could be secured better, I am very happy all my turbo fluid lines will have an fittings, definitely don't want an oil leak there. I know the feeling, it's never fun to look under your car and see a puddle of oil. I was definitely grateful this sort of thing didn't happen under spirited driving, stupid way to trash a motor.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:17 PM   #336
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Dropping the top half of the downpipe and APS up pipe to get to turbo oil drain hose to fix the leak I found on initial start up. That stupid oil drain hose is a bear to get to, I tried to shortcut the job and see if it was possible to reattach the hose without removing these components but I was unable to. I am so happy I will be upgrading my new turbo to stainless steel lines and AN fittings, if I wasn't every hose connection would be properly secured with at least worm style clamps to give some semblence of reliability. I can not believe an oil line (albeit one under low pressure) is secured with spring clamps in such a high temp area. Fortunately, I am getting to know the lil wrx pretty good and can drop these parts in a relatively short amount of time. Believe it or not, that was one of the reasons I did so much of the job myself, I really wanted to get to know the car like I do my little 240sx. I can confidently say I am getting pretty close to that familiarity level after this job.


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Old 08-15-2012, 02:19 PM   #337
soccer05
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Looking down into the engine bay with just the turbo remaining. I unbolted the turbo and was able to reattach the oil drain line in a proper manner to ensure no oil leaks. I must say, for how much this engine was apart this was a really simple problem to fix, very happy it was not the oil pan or worse, the rear main seal.



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Old 08-15-2012, 02:59 PM   #338
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Slowly but surely
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:35 PM   #339
soccer05
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All parts reinstalled and torqued to spec. Double checked all fasteners to ensure tightness and nothing was missed, suspension, exhaust, engine, everything double checked. Got out my funnel to bleed air out of the coolant system. Everybody who does this type of work should invest in one of these funnel system, it creates an artificial high point in the cooling system so you can bleed all the air out, ensuring robustness in that coolant system you paid so much money to operate at its maximum efficiency. I had a fire extinguisher next to the car if anything weird happened, even though I was expecting it I never get used to the car smoking from the header wrap. It smokes a lot, had to get a fan to blow it through the garage (no cross wind on that summer night), as I said before the engine sounds sinister at idle with my choice of components, can not wait to hear it at 7500 rpm wailing with the bigger, less restrictive turbo and external wastegate. Should be fun... but first steps first, we are getting there. By the end of the idle session the car through the check engine light, which is no surprise from my level of modification. Cobb warned me it would happen, code was P0171 for a lean left cylinder bank. I double checked for a vaccumm leak, couldn't find any, so Cobb thinks its just the equal length headers which the car is not tuned for. No biggie, the car is getting trailored to the body shop for fender work, then gst motorsports for the fun stuff.



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Old 08-15-2012, 07:42 PM   #340
scby rex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer05 View Post
No, I will not be reusing the r160. I will be upgrading to an r180 rear diff, and hopefully a slightly more aggressive limited slip (like an os giken or carbonetic) with some of the discs disabled to balance the lockup with my power level, and the discs will be wpc treated to ensure smooth lockup and reduce chatter. If I am going to spend the money on the swap I want the stronger diff and rear brembos.
Yeah, Im using an entire 06 sti rear from hub to hub. They come oem with a plated diff. Been working good for me. Maybe when I go through it again Ill pick up a carbonetic one.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:38 PM   #341
soccer05
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I saw that I had not answered a question earlier about my wiring for the relocated battery. Basically the battery system is an odyssey pc680 with stinger terminals. The terminals have 3 different gauge outlets from the battery. I run a 0 gauge low resistance cable through the interior to the engine bay. I cut out the oem battery connectors, and ran the 0 gauge cable to a 0 gauge distribution block. This distributed the power evenly to the two oem positive cables, one to the starter and one to the fuse box. The negative wire is run from the starter back to a grounding point on the frame. I will also be running an additional grounding wire from the block to the chassis. There is also a 2 gauge cable from the stinger terminal to the amp to power the amp, and a 2 gauge negative cable from the amp to ground. The negative battery terminal is grounded in the passenger footwell. Let me know if you have any questions...



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Old 08-16-2012, 11:30 PM   #342
todeswalzer
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JDM V8 EJ207 USDM 6MT

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Wow what a great build to be reading up on. here i am reading up on the stock atp gtx3017r (as due to many recommendations that's whats going in my car with an ej207) and I trip over this sweet thread.

Really big thanks for doing it right. This isn't done enough these days as all I ever see is how low can you go subies everywhere.



You should look into a front subframe. The stock one is just god awful. I went with oswald performance. the thing belongs on a wall to be stared at for eternity but it stiffens the hell out of the front end. Its scary being able to bend the stock piece back and force with little effort.

Also for rear flaring and squeezing those fat tires in a good option is to get the sti fender flares on there (you'd also have to switch bumpers to match up) and cut out or really pull out the quarter panel underneath. you can get close to an oem look while drastically increasing the area under there instead of having an ugly ass pull. I'm looking into this route myself as a fellow auto-xer runs 285s this way without any rubbing

Anyways I really wish I was out there in CA with ya but I am afraid of running anything spherical due to my full time rust belt status. Other than the spherical bits I feel we have very similar visions for our cars (and a lot of the same parts =D ) although i would say your knowledge in WHY each particular part works is far greater than mine - like the way you completely lost me when you started talking about how the way the stoptechs mount to the hub is uber win better than other kits.

the flock looks great. what brand did you go with? i did mine with donjer about 2 years ago. it has held up very strong and is still one of my favorite mods to this day.


i can tell ya right now my near future car days might consist of teflon taping my front sway bar. I had never thought about doing that. Have you had success with this method in the past?


Anyways I admire your dedication and the way you focus on the small details. keep up the good work! ....Now to start ordering bits and pieces for that battery relocation job ive always had in the back of my mind....

Last edited by todeswalzer; 08-16-2012 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:17 PM   #343
soccer05
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Swapping out the oem wrx hood scoop for the jdm STI hoodscoop. The jdm hood scoop is much larger, providing more airflow to my bigger tmic, as well as looking more aggressive. Just make sure to get the jdm spplitter as well to ensure all the air is being ducted correctly to the heat exchanger, or else it is a cosmetics mod. I will probably be be making a custom splitter to get the maximum cooling out of the APS TMIC, if not then I will be cutting up the very expensive, new jdm splitter I have in the box. Everything cosmetics wise is just getting bolted up for tuning, and will go to paint after the fender rolling and tuning is complete. The hood definitely looks better with the larger hood scoop, and I can't wait to see mine finished with the hood louvers as well, should give a very purposeful end look.


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Old 08-20-2012, 04:42 PM   #344
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todeswalzer View Post
Wow what a great build to be reading up on. here i am reading up on the stock atp gtx3017r (as due to many recommendations that's whats going in my car with an ej207) and I trip over this sweet thread.

Really big thanks for doing it right. This isn't done enough these days as all I ever see is how low can you go subies everywhere.



You should look into a front subframe. The stock one is just god awful. I went with oswald performance. the thing belongs on a wall to be stared at for eternity but it stiffens the hell out of the front end. Its scary being able to bend the stock piece back and force with little effort.

Also for rear flaring and squeezing those fat tires in a good option is to get the sti fender flares on there (you'd also have to switch bumpers to match up) and cut out or really pull out the quarter panel underneath. you can get close to an oem look while drastically increasing the area under there instead of having an ugly ass pull. I'm looking into this route myself as a fellow auto-xer runs 285s this way without any rubbing

Anyways I really wish I was out there in CA with ya but I am afraid of running anything spherical due to my full time rust belt status. Other than the spherical bits I feel we have very similar visions for our cars (and a lot of the same parts =D ) although i would say your knowledge in WHY each particular part works is far greater than mine - like the way you completely lost me when you started talking about how the way the stoptechs mount to the hub is uber win better than other kits.

the flock looks great. what brand did you go with? i did mine with donjer about 2 years ago. it has held up very strong and is still one of my favorite mods to this day.


i can tell ya right now my near future car days might consist of teflon taping my front sway bar. I had never thought about doing that. Have you had success with this method in the past?


Anyways I admire your dedication and the way you focus on the small details. keep up the good work! ....Now to start ordering bits and pieces for that battery relocation job ive always had in the back of my mind....
Thanks for the kind words glad you are enjoying the build. It has been a long process, hopefully the end result will be worth it (the personal bar I have set is pretty high). I know about the low and slow crowd .. To each their own I guess but i really don't like how many of their decisions result in an unsafe car driving next to you, seems like a stupid way to get an innocent person sharing the roads killed.

I am looking at a front subframe, I am pretty well decided on the Cusco V2 h brace to tie the suspension pickup points. I want to cut as much mass off the car as possible, but not at the expense of chassis stiffness.

Right now the car just got trailered to the GST Motorsports to begin the final stage before getting back on the road. I away not comfortable doing the pull down at the area by the door, so I am letting GST look at it and will go with their recommendations. I am aware of what you are talking about and it definitely looks good.

I did go with donjer as well for the flocking, glad to hear its holding up well. I am definitely happy with mine, hope it holds up well over daily use. I have had good luck wrapping all my sway bars and other pieces with Teflon tape with grease to reduce squeaking on the sway bars, do it on everything I can with polyurethane.

Glad the journal has helped inspire your build. If you want some real knowledge call up any of the vendors listed in my first post, the knowledge these shops possess and are willing to share with customers blows me away, and is the reason those shops consistently turn out such fast, functional, and well built cars. Pick their brains, it's definitely cheaper to buy the right part once than try to figure the magic solution on your own. Glad you're enjoying your car, wish I had an ej207 over my ej205, but I'm saving for a built 2.6 that can rev with a quality twin scroll package from full race. Get wrenching and start enjoying the journey and the car.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:57 PM   #345
soccer05
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Hood scoop installed and test fitted to intercooler. I think this gives a pretty functional look to the front end of the car, especially when the hood louvers are installed. Functional cooling and aero, I just need to fab up some ducting to ensure all the air from the scoop goes through the intercooler. Projects are moving along, and the car is getting closer to completion.


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Old 08-21-2012, 01:03 PM   #346
todeswalzer
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What coilovers are you going to be looking at?
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:37 AM   #347
soccer05
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Car is dropped on all fours and moves under its own power for the first time in 6 months. The thing sounds beastly, can't wait to get it tuned so I can enjoy it. When I moved it down to the driveway, I must comment the ACT clutch feels amazing. The pedal feel is good and solid, slightly stiffer than stock but definitely daily driveable, good modulation and quick release. I am about as impressed as you can be with a clutch that you have only driven for a total of fifty feet. Definitely an excellent compromise for daily driving. I can already tell I love the ACT Prolite flywheel, I have to make a strong effort not to let the revs climb, the car just wants to rev now. Should definitely help that big GTX 3071 get into the powerband quicker. I would recommend the lightweight flyhwheel to anyone not interested in drag racing, the engine just begs to rev. I can not wait to get this car tuned and hear it bouncing off the rev limiter. Definitely needs an aggressive rear fender pull, at my current ride height the tires are almost rubbing the fender (also due to my rear allignment settings only running -1.25 degrees rear camber to help the car rotate). We will see if we can keep the stock body work, if not its time for some flares and roll around with some sunk in looking 275's while I save for some 18x10.5 with 295's. Hopefully we can make it work with the stock bodywork, as I am not making the power to truly utilize 295's. Let's see how it goes.


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Old 08-23-2012, 04:43 PM   #348
soccer05
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What coilovers are you going to be looking at?
Not quite sure, I will be coordinating the purchase with some of the shops mentioned so far in the build (gst, lic, Msi, robispec) so I will buy the correct setup the first time. Most likely either jrz, kw, or ast. They will be at least a remote resorvoir dual adjustable setup, but I would love if the budget allowed triple adjustable to be in the mix (not holding my breath but will definitely be pricing them out). Obviously, this is far beyond an average setup, so I will be doing this at the same time as my 6 speed swap to take advantage Of the sti stronger wheel hubs, rear Brembos, smarter diffs, dccd, etc. no point buying this setup until I have the 6 speed and install all at once. Until then I am rolling around on the h&r coilovers ( which were not designed for a build of this magnitude).
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:07 PM   #349
todeswalzer
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Right on. I've heard nothing but good about jrz and ast. Also keep an eye out for zzyzx coils a guy i autox with runs em and he wins his class every single event. Apparently they use a hugh quality double adjustable koni coil body insert....that have no 'clicks' on the settings of em they just turn at will


After a ton of research i settled on either turn in concept sst or rce tarmac 2s. I went with the racecomps. They are kw variant 3s revalved for Subaru. Rce also makes lowering front camber plates for an extra 3/4" of suspension travel up front.

I ran em for like 2 weeks before my ej205 ran out of breath (spun bearing) so I can't quite comment on trackability yet. So far just putting around town they're worlds above the stance gr+ pros I ran for 3 years.

Check out a few reviews including mine here

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1544241

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Old 08-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #350
sogah87
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I am so excited about this build... I have followed it since the week you opened it up lol.

Your advice and knowledge of parts is incredible, and have followed much of your advice on suspension parts.

Truly grateful for the service you have done for our community, and hope you continue to do so.

Also post of a video and link it on here when you get this thing up and running!! .. (Tuned and running )
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