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Old 08-13-2012, 10:02 PM   #1
MtnXfreeride
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Default Layering wax and polish

Ive gotten into a routine with my bi-weekly car washes..

I wash with rainX soap
Rinse the car thoroughly and hose it down without a hose nozzle so more of the water disappears, and use a absorber XL to wipe the glass dry.

I use Eagle One Was-As-You-Dry to wax/dry the car off..
Then I choose a section or two to polish with NU Finish polish (stuff is awesome BTW).

My questions are.. is it doing any harm or is it good to layer wax and polish over and over like this? Should I be stripping everything off before this process? And is this a bad order to do things?

I doubt the wax-as-u-dry really has much to it anyway it goes on so lightly to avoid streaking.

The reason I ask is that I am considering buying a quality wax and doing the car over with that then NU finish polish on a day off to have a thick protective coat.. is this a bad idea?

My 06' Subaru had all kinds of tiny nicks and paint discolorations from road tar/bugs/sap so I want to get a strong layer of protection going.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:00 AM   #2
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Polish, then wax. You should strip everything. Use the nu finnish then seal with a real wax no spray wax. Then in between wax's use your "wax as you dry" while drying, but use a waterblade and a microfiber towel insted of the absorber.. Repeat every month. And i would use a better polish.

Or skip the polish and use a cleaner wax

A good protector wax is colinite.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:19 AM   #3
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You need to strip everything and start over... I would recommend a good wash (use dawn or other dish soap to remove wax) and then clay bar, followed by a good polish with a DA and good pad if you can afford it. I use Meguiars 205 for light polishing or Meguiars 105 followed by 205 for heavy scratch removal / finishing polish. Then follow those with a good sealant (a good wax or even the nu finish will work fine).

After this point your paint will be clean and polished and with good washing technique you should be able to keep things looking good. Wax will need to be reapplied every month or two (other types of sealants can last longer Ive never used nu finish so im not sure how well this will work) and you can touch up before waxing with a good polish if you need to remove swirls or any other defects.
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abehanna View Post
You need to strip everything and start over... I would recommend a good wash (use dawn or other dish soap to remove wax) and then clay bar, followed by a good polish with a DA and good pad if you can afford it. I use Meguiars 205 for light polishing or Meguiars 105 followed by 205 for heavy scratch removal / finishing polish. Then follow those with a good sealant (a good wax or even the nu finish will work fine).

After this point your paint will be clean and polished and with good washing technique you should be able to keep things looking good. Wax will need to be reapplied every month or two (other types of sealants can last longer Ive never used nu finish so im not sure how well this will work) and you can touch up before waxing with a good polish if you need to remove swirls or any other defects.
No Dawn.

Claybar and start from zero.





I'm not a fan of Nu Finish. I'd highyl reccomend Meguaires products. Everything I've used from them works as advertised, and they have a nice line of Professional products if you need something heavier/really get into detailing.

Waxing is done after polish. Polish is removeing scratches/defects (paint correction), and waxes are used to protect (seal). It should always be polish before paint. Imagine it like sanding. Polish is 220, wax is 600.

Depending on the time between waxes and the condition of the paint, simply a new coat of wax could be sufficient a month or so if you please. Environmental effects (weather, road debris, etc.) will vary this number.


I suggest;

Wash
Clay
Wash (remove clay dirt/residue).
Meguaires ColorX (You might have to work it in. It's a polish that leaves a wax. It's a great one-stepper available anywhere)
Inspect (see if you want another coat. One might be good enough)
Meguaires NXT Wax (Technically a synthetic sealant since a wax is a natural product. It lasts longer, performs better, etc.)


For upkeep wash with soap (Meguiares Gold Class is great), and use some Meguaires ultimate spray wax. It's meant for plastics and can be used in the sun as well. Use once a week after a wash.
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Duke View Post
No Dawn.
In my experience claybar does not do a great job of removing wax residue... dish soap gets rid of wax residue (keep in mind i would never use it unless i was going to immediately polish and reseal my paint)

Just curious why you say no dawn; does this harm the paint in any way?
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:16 AM   #6
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Dawn can etch dishes. Paint too. Buy car wash.

Polish is like sanding. If you wax and then polish, you might as well skip waxing as you are taking the wax off with polish.

Nu finish is junk.

However you do it, the paint needs to first be cleaned. Then it's waxed. Cleaners are either abrasive type or chemical type. Zymol is chemical. Both will smooth the finish...just in different ways.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:29 PM   #7
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Like others have said...

Wash
Clay (optional - only when planning to polish AND wax afterward)
Wash (to remove clay residue)
Polish (either abrasive if removing scratches or just a show polish for a little added depth)
Wax

I like to use the following products most:

Wash - Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate. I spray Duragloss Bug Remover on the bumper several minutes before washing.
Clay - Mothers CG Clay
Polish - Menzerna Intensive Polish followed by Final Polish II, or Poorboys World SSR 2.5 followed by SSR1.
Glazes (Similar to a finishing polish) I use Poorboys White Diamond or Black Hole, or Wolfgang Finishing Glaze

Wax:
Long Lasting: Collinite 845, Duragloss Clear Coat Polish (actually a wax even tho it's called a polish)
More for Appearance: Meguiars #26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax, Poorboys World Natty's (blue or red), Mothers FX Synwax.

In between waxes and after EVERY wash I have not found a product I enjoy using more than Duragloss Aquawax. I am really a big fan of a LOT of Duragloss products. Priced right, work great and I can get them locally at CarQuest. When I need bulk though I buy from autogeek online.
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:56 PM   #8
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Tons of bad advice in this thread. I'm surprised Kean has not already posted here.

Link to Kean's detailing library. OP should read this.

First off, never use Dawn. Its a dish soap designed to strip oil off of whatever it comes in contact with. Including rubber, plastic and door seals.

Second, always remove polish before waxing. The order is Wash, Clay, Wash, Polish, Seal and or Wax. In that order, always, if you go out of order you're not going to get good results.

Finally, clay when done properly strips everything off, including contaminate and left over sealant / wax. Also, clay should always be your first step before you polish, otherwise your polish will pull off the contaminates the clay should be removing and pull it back through your paint, reintroducing the marring you're trying to remove by polishing.
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:12 PM   #9
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Should you clay with each wash to remove the wax/polish? Don't mean to hijack, seemed like a relevant question to this thread.
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyDubbin View Post
Should you clay with each wash to remove the wax/polish? Don't mean to hijack, seemed like a relevant question to this thread.
No. Claybarring removes pretty much anything stuck on the paint, wax included.

Polishes shouldn't leave anything behind (realistically). They're job is to buff scratches out. It uses abrahasives (or chemical treatment) to very finely polish the surface, then they're wiped clean. Wax leaves a coating to act as a shield against the elements.

Claying should only be done once, maybe twice a year (I like once in spring, then a new one in fall in preparation of winter). Again environemnt will affect it. Unless your paint takes a beating everyday, than once in spring should be fine.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:18 PM   #11
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Follow the flowchart, it is your friend and answers almost every question ever
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmhm17 View Post
Polish, then wax. You should strip everything. Use the nu finnish then seal with a real wax no spray wax. Then in between wax's use your "wax as you dry" while drying, but use a waterblade and a microfiber towel insted of the absorber.. Repeat every month. And i would use a better polish.

Or skip the polish and use a cleaner wax

A good protector wax is colinite.
Water blade? Oh please no. Fifth Gear did a good test on how badly they scratch your paint/clear.

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Old 08-15-2012, 01:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
My questions are.. is it doing any harm or is it good to layer wax and polish over and over like this? Should I be stripping everything off before this process? And is this a bad order to do things?
The answer to these 3 questions would depend solely on the characteristics of the product(s) you are using. While the term "polish" is generally understood as a product that has some abrasive characteristics (to correct blemishes in your finish), some products labeled as a "polish" are not abrasive at all. A good example of this is Zaino's Z-2 or Z-5. The fact is that these terms are not standardized in the industry. ....which can make it even more confusing. Personally, I would determine your goals and then choose your products based on their own, individual attributes and how well they meet your needs.

In your scenario (with the products you have chosen so far), your path seems counter-productive. I don't know if Nu Finish has abrasives that provide some mild corrective ability but briefly looking at the MSDS for the product I see it does contain petroleum distillates which can chemically aid in the removal of oxidation, old wax residue, etc. Applying Nu Finish over something like a quick wax (like your E1), I'll wager it would remove most (if not all) of that product from the surface. The other potential downside is compatibility and/or interference in regard to the adhesion of the Nu Finish protective component(s) to your paint caused by a wax or other product you may use underneath.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
I doubt the wax-as-u-dry really has much to it anyway it goes on so lightly to avoid streaking.
A quick wax or quick detailer is generally meant to provide a boost to your existing LSP (last step product; wax/sealant) and help provide that "just waxed look". In this scenario, I would say your best bet would be to apply the Nu Finish as your base LSP and then follow up with the E1 if you so desire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
The reason I ask is that I am considering buying a quality wax and doing the car over with that then NU finish polish on a day off to have a thick protective coat.. is this a bad idea?
I would recommend reading the directions for your Nu Finish product. It appears they recommend one coat initially and then to follow up with a second coat 30 days later. Due to the potential cleaning ability of the product and the manufacturers own recommendation, I would see it as a waste to "layer" this product beyond the 2 applications they describe. ....although you're more than welcome to do this if your own personal experience/preferences differ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
My 06' Subaru had all kinds of tiny nicks and paint discolorations from road tar/bugs/sap so I want to get a strong layer of protection going.
....just keep in mind that no LSP (that I'm aware of at least) will provide any measurable protection against chips. As far as contaminants and how they bond and/or damage the finish, this will depend on how well Nu Finish does at this task. IMO/IME, not all LSP's do well (or equally) in this regard.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:43 AM   #14
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That is what you are suppose to do.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:43 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by erik11876 View Post
Follow the flowchart, it is your friend and answers almost every question ever
Wish there was a " Thanks " button for this simple flow chart, thought I knew how to wash, polish and wax cars the last 3 decades until I got my first Obsidian Black Pearl Subaru which came standard from dealer with built in swirls and holograms.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abehanna View Post
You need to strip everything and start over... I would recommend a good wash (use dawn or other dish soap to remove wax) and then clay bar, followed by a good polish with a DA and good pad if you can afford it. I use Meguiars 205 for light polishing or Meguiars 105 followed by 205 for heavy scratch removal / finishing polish. Then follow those with a good sealant (a good wax or even the nu finish will work fine).
We are talking about a car with 2000 miles one it, I feel like dawn and the type of polish you refer to aren't necessary and will only scratch the otherwise perfect paint.

NU Finish is a "polish" but its not really IMO.. you dont rub it in.. just apply and wipe off and you can feel a coating of protection on there. So is it really stripping the eagle 1 off? I really feel like it is a paint sealant more than a polish.


So,
I will wash my car with a quality regular (not rainX) soap..
Clay bar (Have a kit already)
Apply a paint sealant - Recommendations?
Apply my NU Finish
Use Eagle One wax-as-dry in between

Once my current supply runs out Ill consider a switch.. but I really REALLY like the way NU Finish goes on/off and that coat I can feel.


I like what Kean/erik said, so based on what he said and others here, can someone recommend a nice base paint sealant to apply?

Last edited by MtnXfreeride; 08-15-2012 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
We are talking about a car with 2000 miles one it, I feel like dawn and the type of polish you refer to aren't necessary and will only scratch the otherwise perfect paint.

NU Finish is a "polish" but its not really IMO.. you dont rub it in.. just apply and wipe off and you can feel a coating of protection on there. So is it really stripping the eagle 1 off? I really feel like it is a paint sealant more than a polish.


So,
I will wash my car with a quality regular (not rainX) soap..
Clay bar (Have a kit already)
Apply a paint sealant - Recommendations?
Apply my NU Finish
Use Eagle One wax-as-dry in between

Once my current supply runs out Ill consider a switch.. but I really REALLY like the way NU Finish goes on/off and that coat I can feel.


I like what Kean/erik said, so based on what he said and others here, can someone recommend a nice base paint sealant to apply?
If you like how Nu Finish performs for you, then I say stick with it.

What exactly are you looking to gain from applying all of these layers of different product? Personally, I like to keep it simple and would recommend you consider doing the same. Seeing how you like Nu Finish, I would use that as your sole LSP. ....using a QD/QW (if you want to) to freshen up the finish as I discussed in my earlier post. I really see no need to use something else under the Nu Finish or vice versa.

Quick waxes like the E1 product you mentioned are not exactly known for their resilience or staying power. As I said before, they are really just meant to add a little boost to your existing LSP and/or to bring back that "just waxed look", etc.

As far as Nu Finish possibly removing or compromising an existing product on your finish, it was due more to the carrier solvents I noticed that it contains. Carrier solvents are what keep some products in a workable state and then flash off as the product dries on the surface its applied to. They can have the potential to dissolve LSP's (although some may be more resistant than others). Nu Finish also recommends it's product to be applied to a clean surface free of other products to promote proper adhesion and ensure best performance. .....all good reasons to stick to it (IMO) instead of looking to layer it over something else.

If you are in some way dissatisfied with Nu Finish, just know that there are a myriad of other decent products out there that are bound to meet most (if not all) of your criteria.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:25 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
We are talking about a car with 2000 miles one it, I feel like dawn and the type of polish you refer to aren't necessary and will only scratch the otherwise perfect paint.

NU Finish is a "polish" but its not really IMO.. you dont rub it in.. just apply and wipe off and you can feel a coating of protection on there. So is it really stripping the eagle 1 off? I really feel like it is a paint sealant more than a polish.


So,
I will wash my car with a quality regular (not rainX) soap..
Clay bar (Have a kit already)
Apply a paint sealant - Recommendations?
Apply my NU Finish
Use Eagle One wax-as-dry in between

Once my current supply runs out Ill consider a switch.. but I really REALLY like the way NU Finish goes on/off and that coat I can feel.


I like what Kean/erik said, so based on what he said and others here, can someone recommend a nice base paint sealant to apply?
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-701-a...k-sealant.aspx

I've heard it's easy to apply and looks amazing when done, good for amateur home deatailers.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:12 PM   #19
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Thanks Kean, I will try and keep it simple as suggested.

I really like the sound of the product erik suggested too in place of the NU Finish. I might give that a try when my bottle is empty.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:02 AM   #20
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OP,
People have been using dish soap for years, with no issues. One example-
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2067362

Just remember, the dish soap WILL REMOVE ALL PROTECTION from your vehicle. You must re-seal it for protection. Follow the flow chart above.
My method from scratch

Dish soap wash(2 bucket grit guard)
Rinse
Clay using dish soap water as lube
Re wash with dish soap
Rinse well/dry with MF cloth
Auto glym super resin polish
Auto glym HD wax
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:40 AM   #21
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Great tips...now to make a trip down to the closest Kmart/Target for some cleaning supplies. My subie is my first new car purchase in over 14 years and I want to keep it looking like the day I brought it home from the dealer.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorge View Post
Water blade? Oh please no. Fifth Gear did a good test on how badly they scratch your paint/clear.

Fifth Gear 15x01 Car Wash - YouTube
Good video, but I don't get the scrathces they showed. I wax after I use the blade. Maybe thats why? I worked at a detailing shop we would use it on everything, but we cleaned it after every use - again never seen these scratches..

Now if they did a test in that video on which one still had the most wax left, I'm sure the car wash one would of lost due to the harsh detergents they use.

But, good video I enjoyed
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