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Old 03-19-2012, 10:03 PM   #26
o2brew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impreyza View Post
one final question... how did you attach the wire to the ground bolt? do you have the size of a nut that fits?
What I did was crimp on a ring terminal to the ground wire, slip that over the bolt, then tighten it down with a nut. You'll need a M6-1.0 nut, which you can get at Home Depot for a few cents.

All else I did pretty much as in the original post. Thanks for the write up with pictures ST Eye.
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:36 AM   #27
ST Eye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2brew View Post
What I did was crimp on a ring terminal to the ground wire, slip that over the bolt, then tighten it down with a nut. You'll need a M6-1.0 nut, which you can get at Home Depot for a few cents.

All else I did pretty much as in the original post. Thanks for the write up with pictures ST Eye.
No problem! I'm glad people are making good use of it.
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:55 AM   #28
auskip07
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I think i bought the material for about 6 dollars and it would make 3 of these. Tucked the wire from into the headliner - A pillar and down to the fuse box. I have since used double sided tape and a black trim piece to conceal the wire to the headliner
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:43 PM   #29
sgoldste01
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Obs Blk Prl/Drk Gray Mtl

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST Eye View Post
I had bought a cigarette lighter socket splitter (makes one socket into two) and clipped the male connector, so you now have a positive and negative bare wire leading to two sockets. If you only need one, then just use the one socket.

Basically the add-a-line will be your hot (positive) connection, the ground wire (negative) will be connected to anywhere that is metal on the body. So these wires will be connected to the splitter and you then connect your radar detector into the socket. This allows you to connect your device without having to cut the original wiring on your device.

One thing you want to do is make sure the positive wire is the center of the socket, as opposed to the wall of the socket which should be be negative connection.
Please explain how you connect the splitter's positive wire to the add-a-line. Did you solder or tap into the red wire that's part of the add-a-line?
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:51 PM   #30
ST Eye
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Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Please explain how you connect the splitter's positive wire to the add-a-line. Did you solder or tap into the red wire that's part of the add-a-line?
IIRC I soldered the connection from the add-a-line to the hot side of the cigarette lighter positive wire. You could use a vampire tap but you'll have an exposed wire that you'll have to tape. That said, soldering is better anyway.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:05 PM   #31
sgoldste01
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Here's my radar detector/GPS hardwire implementation. My goal was to have neither device attached to the windshield with suction cups.

For the radar detector, I used those velcro-like (but different) adhesive strips that are provided when you get an Easy-Pass for driving on the thruway. They are securing the front end of the radar detector to the dash hood. I then stuck a rubber adhesive pad on the back end of the radar detector to hold it level, since the dash's hood slopes downward as it approaches the windshield.

For the GPS, I stuck the round adhesive disk onto the dash hood.







To dress up the wiring as it makes its way toward the windshield, I used some slitted plastic wiring tubing. I then dressed the wires along the windshield. To keep myself from accidentally pulling the wiring out of position when I'm connecting/disconnecting the devices, I pressed a 1-inch long piece of clear tubing between the dash and the windshield right at the point where the wiring disappears between the dash and the windshield. This tubing holds the right end of the wiring securely in place.

When I got to the speaker grill, I removed the grill and dressed the wiring through the speaker cavity because the GPS wire is thick and I couldn't fully press it down along where the grill meets the A-pillar (not enough flex). The underside of the grill has plastic ridges that partition the grill into "compartments". I strategically trimmed away some of this partition material so that the cabling wouldn't keep the grill from laying flat and flush with the dash. Now the grill is holding the left end of the wiring securely in place.

I used an add-a-line to add a 10A circuit to the "cigar" fuse position. The radar detector runs off 12Vdc power, so I connected that wire directly to the add-a-line. The TomTom GPS requires a 5Vdc converter (which is contained within the plug that comes with the GPS), so for that I wired a cigarette lighter socket to the add-a-line (down in the cavity where the fuses are), then inserted the GPS plug directly into that socket.

I soldered and used heat-shrink tubing for all of my wiring interconnections.

No more device wires coming down in front of the dash/head unit/ventilation controls area!

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Old 08-26-2012, 03:08 PM   #32
garudatwo
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I've wired my iPhone dock/charger following this guide, burned out 5 10 amp fuses in the process, but it now works!

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Old 08-26-2012, 07:25 PM   #33
ST Eye
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Good job guys!
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:59 PM   #34
m3sv
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Dark Gray Metallic

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I did a hardwire of my Escort 8500 x50 last month on my 2013 WRX. I mounted the detector up high on the rear view mirror. Good to see similarities between my install and what other people did. I debated routing the GPS wire behind the dash, but my mount is low center on the windshield just above the clock and I dont think I want the USB end poking out of the dash all the time. My write up is complete and will be posted soon.
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