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Old 03-30-2012, 10:20 AM   #226
okiedude
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With any kind of luck I will have pics next week, if all of my different parts come in today.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:58 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arisking View Post
Bumpers...thinking about doing this. Anyone else out there have pics of the low pressure/return line setup that isn't stock?
I have the same request. What type of braided hose can I used to replace the stock hose with?
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:05 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TickTack View Post
I have the same request. What type of braided hose can I used to replace the stock hose with?
You want TFE hose. It is a teflon hose covered with braided stainless. Such as this:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU or this
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:01 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okiedude View Post
You want TFE hose. It is a teflon hose covered with braided stainless. Such as this:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU or this
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU
Did you do this? I can't imagine PTFE line can be used with hose clamps...
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:52 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TickTack View Post
Did you do this? I can't imagine PTFE line can be used with hose clamps...
I don't see any mention of hose clamps. You buy the raw hose and assemble with the appropriate fittings.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:32 AM   #231
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I was all set to order a P&L pre-made line, but reading this thread has made think ordering parts and building my own is a better idea.

Any comments on whether or not the P&L part is a quality part worth using in an 04 STi?
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:53 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masher View Post
I was all set to order a P&L pre-made line, but reading this thread has made think ordering parts and building my own is a better idea.

Any comments on whether or not the P&L part is a quality part worth using in an 04 STi?
I have had problems with the p&l fittings leaking. We started using a line from chase bays that goes from the pump all the way to the rack itself instead of connecting to the hard line. Works much better.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:32 AM   #233
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Originally Posted by novacivic View Post
I have had problems with the p&l fittings leaking. We started using a line from chase bays that goes from the pump all the way to the rack itself instead of connecting to the hard line. Works much better.
Did you have one of the original P&L lines, or a newer one? Because the one they sell now looks like it is a replacement for the entire line, almost all the way to the rack.
It looks like a replacement for the entire stock pressure hose, the same as the one from Chase Bays.

Stock: P&L:

Chase Bay:
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:25 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masher View Post

Did you have one of the original P&L lines, or a newer one? Because the one they sell now looks like it is a replacement for the entire line, almost all the way to the rack.
It looks like a replacement for the entire stock pressure hose, the same as the one from Chase Bays.

Stock: P&L:

Chase Bay:
It was one of the older ones
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:37 PM   #235
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It sounds like P&L fixed the problems they had with the original high pressure line they sold, but has anyone used the new line in their car and can offer a review? I contacted P&L, waiting on a reply.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:46 PM   #236
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I bought/installed the P&L line about a month ago. I couldn't get the damn thing to bleed. I'd park with the wheels cranked; jacked the front up and would turn lock to lock for ~20min while watching a DSport DVD nothing. However, I had a coolant leak that I needed to fix so I had my tools out and tried tightening the fitting on the pump. The adaptor was tight but I did get a few cranks out of the fitting on the hose. I'll try in the next couple of days to see if the system bleeds. It's been very annoying and embarassing lol Like I said though, I did get almost a 1/4 turn out of the fitting.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #237
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This may be silly, but is it possible to cut the stock hard line, flare it for a AN fitting, then just extend it? Or are the pressures too high for regular AN type push on hose fittings?
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:17 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armyssoldierboy View Post
I bought/installed the P&L line about a month ago. I couldn't get the damn thing to bleed. I'd park with the wheels cranked; jacked the front up and would turn lock to lock for ~20min while watching a DSport DVD nothing. However, I had a coolant leak that I needed to fix so I had my tools out and tried tightening the fitting on the pump. The adaptor was tight but I did get a few cranks out of the fitting on the hose. I'll try in the next couple of days to see if the system bleeds. It's been very annoying and embarassing lol Like I said though, I did get almost a 1/4 turn out of the fitting.
was the engine on?
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:23 AM   #239
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Of course lol So after driving this morning, the noise is subsiding Now if only I can fix this horrible coolant leak. I tightened the clamp on the turbo to block hose and the line melted off this morning :/ I cut the melted portion off and retightened the clamp but it's still leaking errrrr Fix one thing and something else fails....story of my life.
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:42 PM   #240
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So it sounds like the P&L line is good to go?

Not sure why you couldn't get it to bleed, that's the first I've heard of that problem. What indication did you get that it wasn't bleeding properly?

I'm about ready to have my Subaru back on the road. Working on our cars is fun but it sucks when you're down for weeks at a time.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:01 PM   #241
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The fitting was tight enough to hold fluid. I thought I noticed dampness around it though so I cranked on it a little more. I was timid when tightening it to begin with cuz I tend to have retard strength when tightening bolts and have snapped a few :/ Clues? The pump has whined for 3+ weeks now. I'd park with the wheels cranked, pop the reservoir cap whenever I'd stop and see tons of foam/bubbles.

Tips on install. Make sure the elbow is on the pump side, I didn't as I was in a rush due to my car being stranded in a remote parking lot in Egypt bum **** and was in the dark at 10pm. Also, I undid the little bracket that holds the two hard pipes together under the car and bent the pipe a little. Not sure if that was needed. I had to due to the rushing incorrect instal the first time. I have since uninstalled the line and flipped it. I had the adaptor on the wrong side :/

All in all, it's a nice piece and would recommend it
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:35 PM   #242
scby rex
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Sounds like it ran with air for too long and the pump is toast now.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:49 AM   #243
armyssoldierboy
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If it was burnt, wouldn't it be hard to turn? Cuz it's not hard at all
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:24 PM   #244
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I still haven't heard back from P&L, so I'm going with the Chase Bays line.

@armysoldierboy: have you rebuilt the power steering pump? You may have run too long on low fluid. It's a fairly easy process to rebuild, and costs ~$5 (more if you replace the bearing, which could be the source of the whine) for parts, though it may be tricky getting them locally.

edit: wtf, Chase Bays charges $15 shipping for each and every item, and no discount even if you order multiple items?? Almost a deal breaker.

Last edited by Masher; 11-07-2012 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #245
armyssoldierboy
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I actually had a horrible experience with P&L. They shipped to wrong address, shipped another one 4 days after saying they would, no tracking number bah. Ill look into how to rebuild. Any particular how-to's to check out? I'll search, just asking though
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:06 AM   #246
Masher
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Good to know about P&L. The security certificate for their website is expired too, so it's a risk to send your info to them. I went with Chase Bays, and they shipped the same day I ordered.

These are the threads I followed to rebuild the power steering pump:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1897783
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2127419

If you prefer to buy a replacement pump (around $135+core charge at Auto Zone), check this thread:
http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread...ti-13223.html?


I'm a complete noob at auto repair and I was able to do the rebuild myself in about 4-6 hours. You'll probably want a bench vise because some of the bolts are hard to remove once you have the pump out of the car and off its bracket (which you need to do to get to some of the bolts), though I was able to break most of the bolts loose with a breaker bar wedged against the floor.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:27 PM   #247
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So I installed the Chase Bays replacement high pressure line, and it leaks like crazy at the 90 degree bend at the pump when the pump runs. It leaks where the two red circles are, worse at the top circle. Any ideas what's wrong?

I received two couplers, but only needed one for the pump side. Are they for different applications?

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Old 11-12-2012, 12:18 AM   #248
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Looks like its not seating all the way. Check to see if the taper has any dings or dents. You didnt wrap it with tape or anything did you?
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:30 PM   #249
Masher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex View Post
Looks like its not seating all the way. Check to see if the taper has any dings or dents. You didnt wrap it with tape or anything did you?
It's kind of hard to screw it on in the first place. The taper looks fine, though you may be right about the seating. I assume when it's seated properly, it won't come unseated and start leaking later? I'll check it again, but I tried both adapters that came with the line and both leak.

No, I didn't use any tape. Should I? I've read you shouldn't use teflon tape with this kind of connection and Chase Bays' instructions (for the same part on a 240sx) say not to use teflon tape on power steering connections.

edit: I reseated the connection at the pump and tightened it down good so it no longer leaks. Of course that made it leak at the rack side, so I tightened that down too, which is tricky considering the space available. But it's not leaking anymore and after bleeding the system, there's only a slight judder when the steering wheel is cranked all the way to the left. Hopefully that goes away once all the air is out of the system. Still need to drive around and check for leaks, but it seems my ordeal is over.

Some notes for Chase Bays and anyone who buys their line: they need to explain what the different couplers are for, the torque specs for the connections, and how to properly bleed the system. I only found bleeding instructions for another make/model and followed those. I know most guys can figure it out, but for a weekend mechanic like me it's a little tricky to just wing it.

Last edited by Masher; 11-12-2012 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:14 PM   #250
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Any suggestions on how to access the fittings on the rack side?
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