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Old 09-07-2012, 03:51 PM   #376
wolfmanRX
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really nice hoses but those zipties on the samco radiator one should go!
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:03 PM   #377
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfmanRX View Post
really nice hoses but those zipties on the samco radiator one should go!
But zip ties and duct tape is a racers best friend!! I agree I wish the zip ties weren't there but I felt it was necessary to ensure the hose never contacted either the spinning fans or power steering pulley. I would rather it be functional than look clean, rub a hole, lose coolant and toast a motor. Even with my cusco motor mounts the space is so tight I felt I needed a bit of extra security to ensure there was no contact. In the future I plan to upgrade to a set of slim fans (the same set that Msi used on their project car that can pull some serious cfm) but unfortunately my budget does not allow it at this time. So even though it doesn't look the best it is necessary and functional due to the extra space taken up by the extra late koyo racing radiator that spaces the fans back in the engine bay.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:53 AM   #378
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Closeup of the ATP GTX 3071 turbo with tial external wastegate and APS TMIC with custom passenger side mounting bracket fabricated. All boost connections are made with Samco silicone hoses to increase reliability. Very clean work, very excited to finish the body work and get this thing tuned and start enjoying the car. All connections to the turbo have been upgraded to stainless steel lines and an fittings to ensure reliability, I didn't want to pour all this money into the car and then have an oil leak on the up pipe and catch my car on fire. Only fluid line not upgraded to stainless was the turbo coolant line, as the coolant will rust and corrode the inside of the stainless line.


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Old 09-08-2012, 02:56 PM   #379
JordenP
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Looking awesome! Cant wait to see your #'s
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:09 PM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer05 View Post
But zip ties and duct tape is a racers best friend!! I agree I wish the zip ties weren't there but I felt it was necessary to ensure the hose never contacted either the spinning fans or power steering pulley. I would rather it be functional than look clean, rub a hole, lose coolant and toast a motor. Even with my cusco motor mounts the space is so tight I felt I needed a bit of extra security to ensure there was no contact. In the future I plan to upgrade to a set of slim fans (the same set that Msi used on their project car that can pull some serious cfm) but unfortunately my budget does not allow it at this time. So even though it doesn't look the best it is necessary and functional due to the extra space taken up by the extra late koyo racing radiator that spaces the fans back in the engine bay.
dude i understand it happened to me i had zip ties to hold it down with my mishimoto hose...i trimmed off a little bit off the end of the hose to bring it farther away from my fans and worked like a charm...just tryna help you out your bay looks nice
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:03 PM   #381
todeswalzer
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Yup if you cut the hose end that connects to the radiator about a half inch you'll be fine.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:02 PM   #382
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfmanRX View Post
dude i understand it happened to me i had zip ties to hold it down with my mishimoto hose...i trimmed off a little bit off the end of the hose to bring it farther away from my fans and worked like a charm...just tryna help you out your bay looks nice
Yeah I thought about doing that but decided I would hold off until I did my thin fans, that way I could make sure the final product fit perfectly. Thanks though, I know that would be an easy solution.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:14 PM   #383
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braided lines are not stainless on the inside, they are either ptfe or rubber with a outer braid. So they are not going to corrode on the inside. Why did the shop doing your dumptube mig weld it?
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:47 AM   #384
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braided lines are not stainless on the inside, they are either ptfe or rubber with a outer braid. So they are not going to corrode on the inside. Why did the shop doing your dumptube mig weld it?
I don't know why the coolant line would corrode, but mike at gst said he tried it on their racecar and they ran into corrosion issues with it. It would have been no problem while the turbo was out to weld on an fittings with all the other an fittings beig welded, but mike said it would lead to reliability issues. As he knows more about subaru's than I could hope to learn, I followed his recommendation. Not sure why it corrodes but I trusted his recommendation.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:29 PM   #385
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Aeromotive fuel system installed to ensure adequate fuel delivery at higher horsepower levels, and provide a solid foundation for my fuel system when I upgrade to a built sti block. I tried to purchase as many of the parts as possible to be interchangeable with future power upgrades and goals. While not a necessity at this power level, the added insurance is nice since I am pushing quite a bit of power out of the 2.0, and definitely will be nice when I upgrade to the sti block. Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator was mounted were the windshield washer resorvoir was located, due to the wastegate and turbo heat in the area aeromotive says to install the resorvoir (passenger strut tower). Very impressed with the quality of the aeromotive kit, while pricey, the workmanship is top notch.



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Old 09-12-2012, 02:30 PM   #386
soccer05
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Picture of the interior. Racetech rt4009hr seat installed on sparco sliders and seat rails, utilizing a 3 inch 5 point race tech harness with fia cam lock. Very high quality belt, as I understand it the racetech harnesses are made by willans,who makes some of the best harnesses on the market, and is rebadged with the racetech logo. I must say, just cruising to and from the garage is how much I love the racetech brand of seats, they are so supportive and rigid, definitely making it easy to feel exactly what the car is telling you, but has a comfortable foam padding to make the car tolerable on long drives. Very impressed, the seat is a notch above the others I have tried, as most race car bucket seats are too harsh and lead to a numb and aching backside if driven for long periods of time. I now see why the Racetech seats are so highly recommended by those that have used them. Cockpit is very functional with everything within easy reach.





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Old 09-12-2012, 03:27 PM   #387
abrumlev
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Do you have a motor plan in the works? I don't remember 100% but this car will be for NASA or other road race events right?

I vote destroked 2.5 or long rod 2.5 with a rotated 35r or bigger and a JDM 6speed
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:43 PM   #388
soccer05
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View of all the safety hardware installed, Racetech seat, Racetech 5 point harness, and Sparco Harness bar. Notice the bar is set at the proper height to keep the harnesses at the proper orientation to hold the driver safely in a crash. Often people bolt the belts in at extreme angles which will actually compress the spine with a dangerous amount of force if not installed within the angles specified. After spending all this money on safety equipment, I want to make sure it all works properly.


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Old 09-13-2012, 04:20 PM   #389
soccer05
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Very excited, just confirmed an order of karlton's fender flares for my wrx. Very excited, I am sure many of you have seen his car over on iwsti or on t3hclap's website, but he went out and got a set of fender flares custom molded to his sti, then kept the molds and is remaking them for people to use. I wish I had known I was going to do fender flares prior to my wheel purchase, because the easily swallow a 18x10.5 et+15 wheel with a 295 series tire on them. So my current setup will be slightly sunk in, oem looking sunk in, but I will be able to get full compression travel with my plus sized wheel combo, and for my current power levels a 295 is a bit of overkill. Of course, when I step up to my built sti block and full rac eturbo setup, I will need this amount of mechanical grip. Huge, huge thanks to karlton (xtremeyolks on iwsti.com), he has been a huge help with advice and recommendations throughout this build. For the few that don't know, this is a pic of his car off t3hclaps website, showing what the flares look like. Very clean, very functional... exactly what I need for my project.

http://t3hclap.com/wp-content/upload.../12/pic-11.jpg

http://t3hclap.com/wp-content/upload.../12/pic-12.jpg
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:40 PM   #390
WRX8XB
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275s are plenty of tire for a GD, slap on some 15mm spacers and be golden till you pick up some 18x10.5 +15mm RPF1s.

Did you already convert to 5x114.3?

-T3h_Clap
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:30 PM   #391
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
275s are plenty of tire for a GD, slap on some 15mm spacers and be golden till you pick up some 18x10.5 +15mm RPF1s.

Did you already convert to 5x114.3?

-T3h_Clap
Nope I am still runnin oem wrx drivetrain (5 speed 5x100 hubs), which is one of the main shortcomings to my setup. It was refreshed with brand new oem wheel bearings packed with high performance Neo synthetic wheel bearing grease to attempt to withstand the use of hard track use and subsequent high temperatures. As soon as the car is back driving my number one priority is sourcing a 6 speed drivetrain as I am pushing the 5 speed with my power levels, as well as taking advantage of dccd and proper diffs. At the same time I will be upgrading my dampers to a proper race level coilover (either jrz, ast, or kw) and a proper rear diff (either carbonetic or is giken with wpc'd clutch plates and some plates deactivated.

I totally agree 275's are plenty at my power level, and I will be upgrading wheel tire combo after I add a significant amount of power. I am not sure if I want to run spacers, I will have to go back and take a look at my measurements, as I do not want my scrub radius to get too out of whack. I just wish I had bought the rims after deciding to use flares, as I spent quite a bit of time getting my measurements as good as I could around a 9.5 inch rim, now back tithe drawing board as I do not want to sacrifice my steering feel. I will have to look at everything and figure out which compromise will get the best end result.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:24 PM   #392
WRX8XB
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Even if you don't race with the spacers on you'll want them for installation of the flares and for the first few rubbing test runs. I'd even suggest going as far as 25mm so you're sure you don't rub on the flares when you do go to a wider wheel/tire package in the future.

Are you already altering the SAI with the front camber plates maxed out?
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:00 AM   #393
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
Even if you don't race with the spacers on you'll want them for installation of the flares and for the first few rubbing test runs. I'd even suggest going as far as 25mm so you're sure you don't rub on the flares when you do go to a wider wheel/tire package in the future.

Are you already altering the SAI with the front camber plates maxed out?
Thats a great idea with the spacers, I will definitely do that. That's so much easier than all the measuring I did to originally check my wheel specs and clearance. Sometimes the simple answers are so much better, unfortunately I am pretty much self taught with a ton of research on the performance modifications, but lack in real world application.


Pardon my stupidity, but I am coming off a thirteen hour shift and my mind is shot, what do you mean by SAI. Are you referring to KPI, like kingpin inclination angle. KPI is kind of where i start having a thinner understanding of suspension geometry and forces. I know with an awd car i need to balance kpi, caster, and scrub. I have modified the coil over mounts so I can adjust for additional camber at the spindle (that way I don't mess with my scrub radius like when I adjust camber mainly from my camber plates). If everything works out, I should be running a couple degrees less kingpin inclination angle than caster, with a scrub radius of less than 1.5 inches (and hopefully get it closer to 15-20mm of scrub for good steering feel without torque steer) and a reasonable amount of camber gain with good on center steering feel without introducing additional bump steer. I am trying To avoid the weight jacking that occurs with excessive scrub and excessive kingpin inclination angle.
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:56 AM   #394
WRX8XB
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The spacers give you an inexpensive way to find out where your points of rubbing will actually be, make it not rub at a lower offset then run a higher offset while you're racing. Assuming nothing gets bent (and you've got inboard clearance) you wont have any rubbing at events. The last thing you want to be worrying about at a track day is tire rubbing.

SAI and KPI are the same thing. KPI is an older term, but the measurements are the same.

From the sound of it you've got it under control

You can add more camber at the top hat if you run spacers or a lower offset to counter the change in scrub radius caused by the lower effective offset.

Your camber plates should be a set it and forget, find where you want them for your overall camber numbers, scrub radius and SAI and leave it.

You're doing it right by only adjusting the bolt for fine tuning.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:05 AM   #395
cluksic
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very sick wrx!
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:44 PM   #396
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
The spacers give you an inexpensive way to find out where your points of rubbing will actually be, make it not rub at a lower offset then run a higher offset while you're racing. Assuming nothing gets bent (and you've got inboard clearance) you wont have any rubbing at events. The last thing you want to be worrying about at a track day is tire rubbing.

SAI and KPI are the same thing. KPI is an older term, but the measurements are the same.

From the sound of it you've got it under control

You can add more camber at the top hat if you run spacers or a lower offset to counter the change in scrub radius caused by the lower effective offset.

Your camber plates should be a set it and forget, find where you want them for your overall camber numbers, scrub radius and SAI and leave it.

You're doing it right by only adjusting the bolt for fine tuning.
Thanks for the spacer idea that will work great. Glad my decisions make sense to those who have more experience than I do at doing these things. Definitely want to dial in the suspension properly to optimize chassis stability, predictability, response etc. I was hoping to map out my suspension geometry today on paper but running behind from doing other things. Hopefully, by tomorrow I'll have everything mapped out and give an update of my geometry so you can see if I'm on the right track.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:52 PM   #397
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cluksic View Post
very sick wrx!
Thanks glad you like it. It'll be nice to get this thing back on the road and begin dialing the chassis in. Already just puttin around the block the amount of grip and chassis stiffness is remarkable.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:36 PM   #398
soccer05
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Here's a *****y pic of the view from the drivers seat. As you can see all the gauges are laid out in a way to make it easy for the driver to receive all the vital information at a glance. I'm not sure whether I want to keep the greddy i-touch down low, I probably will keep it there but I am tempted to throw it in where the clock goes and do some customization to a triple gauge pod to make it fit and look clean. I probably won't do it, as I am not sure it will look decent but I have tossed around the idea in my head. AEM wideband uego gauge mounted right at base of a pillar, defi egt gauge mounted on steering wheel, greddy infometer mounted down low below the radio. I am deciding on whether to purchase a a new steering wheel and hub, still undecided either an OMP wheel or a Sparco, preferrably in 330 mm or maybe even a 350mm. Also need to decide on a seating solution for the passenger seat, not sure if I am going to purchase another racetech seat, or put in an sti seat for the passenger. I am leaning towards the sti seat currently due to budget (racetech seat, mounting brackets, sparco slider, sparco seat base, and 4 or 5 point harness) versus sti seat used $400-500 and harnesses. Not sure, we will see where the budget is at the time, but I really want to use the racetech rt4009. I can not tell you how amazing it is, very comfortable yet supportive, and definitely lets you feel exactly what the car is telling you, I am very impressed with this seat. This may be a stupid question, but any chance a passenger seat from a gr sti will bolt in to my gd, or am I stuck with using a sti version 7/8 seat.


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Old 09-20-2012, 02:57 PM   #399
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Are you looking for a JDM seat? if not just slap in a passenger seat from an 04+ WRX with the black interior.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:14 PM   #400
soccer05
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Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
Are you looking for a JDM seat? if not just slap in a passenger seat from an 04+ WRX with the black interior.
I'm not totally decided on jdm or usdm. I know I want an sti seat for the extra bolstering (as well as resale value for when I purchase another racetech seat). I like the looks of the gr sti seats slightly more, so if they bolted in I would seriously go on the search. If they didn't bolt in I would purchase a usdm or jdm sti seat, bolt in, and start saving for my 6 speed/rear diff/coilovers.

Actually, thinking about it, i am 90% sure that is the direction I will go in, if the gr seats don't bolt in. I really need a proper tranny diff and coilover combo. Those are the weakest points of my current setup and need to be addressed.
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