Project Baby STi - Page 9

italia490 · 09-03-2012, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myrt1987

Yes I would like to have them on when the lights are on. but theres no cubby light like in the wrx.

Did you already buy the led's? Do you want them on with the headlights or to come on with the dome light? You might want to consider wiring them to an on/off switch to a power source that only receives 12V when the key is in the ACC position that way when you turn the car off, the leds will also turn off in the event you forget to turn the switch off.

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myrt1987 · 09-03-2012, 05:14 PM

No i did not buy them yet. I want it as simple as possible. lol. Thats why i figure its easiest just to synch them with headlights. i leave the headlights on auto so they turn on/off by themselves.

I just want to make it as simple as possible cause Im no electrician and have only done minor electrical work with my last car. Thats why I really wanted to find a diy, but nothing yet.

Thanks for your guys help btw.

pkL · 09-04-2012, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by italia490

Hey PKL ! What's the status on this? We're you able to get it resolved?

Funny story, well not really car got towed to dealership because AT oil temperature light came on and is flashing again. I just had my car in the dealership last week for an "improper routing of wire harness and replaced CVT transmission wire harness (this is what it said on my service invoice). I think I might get in **** for messing with my tail light bulbs though, it is so easy to swap out halogen bulbs for LEDs but somehow something went wrong. Sigh...

So all I have working are my brake lights (just the 3) and nothing else, my turn signals don't work and I'm not sure about my reverse or park lights since I can't change the gear out of neutral or drive. So basically I swapped out all the bulbs in the back with the exception of my brake/tail lights.

I guess I'll just tell them and say it how it is, I was looking to swap out my tail lights for LEDs; however, I seemed to have a reoccurring problem from last week, that's why I didn't get a chance to make sure they had worked properly?

italia490 · 09-04-2012, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pkL

Funny story, well not really car got towed to dealership because AT oil temperature light came on and is flashing again. I just had my car in the dealership last week for an "improper routing of wire harness and replaced CVT transmission wire harness (this is what it said on my service invoice). I think I might get in **** for messing with my tail light bulbs though, it is so easy to swap out halogen bulbs for LEDs but somehow something went wrong. Sigh...

So all I have working are my brake lights (just the 3) and nothing else, my turn signals don't work and I'm not sure about my reverse or park lights since I can't change the gear out of neutral or drive. So basically I swapped out all the bulbs in the back with the exception of my brake/tail lights.

Sorry to hear about the troubles you are having with your car. It must be frustrating having your car at the dealer. If only they could fix things right the first time.
So when did the issues with your lights happen...when trying to install the led bumper reflectors or other bulbs in the tail light housing? If all your fuses are good, it could very well be a grounding issue, especially since you are experiencing shifting issues. When you get your car back, provided the dealership fixes the problem for you, I would reverse the steps by putting back the bulbs you took it with the original ones until the problem is fixed. Let me know when you get your car back and we'll get this resolved and everything working the way it's supposed to.

garudatwo · 09-04-2012, 09:57 PM

Italia, please let me know if you want this part removed:

Regarding the footwell light: I just installed a set of LED strips as footwell lights today. The process is very simple:

Parts: wires, push switch, red double ended wire connector thing, blue ring connector thing, fuse tap (small copper piece, not a tap a fuse), wire end connector: female (red) (think hella horn connectors)

Process: for the LED strips:

1)strip 1" off the clear wires of the LED strips, twist them together, and crimp them in the blue ring connector.
2)strip 1" off the colored wires, twist them together, and insert into one end of the double ended red wire connector.
3)take out the fuse for either the CIGAR or 12V in your fuse box, re-insert with the fuse tap piece.
4)connect one end of the push switch's cable to the red female connector, the other end into the unused hole of the double ended wire connector
5)connect the female connector to the fuse tap
6)connect the ring terminal to a ground (pick a screw that's attached to a metal part)

Common sense stuff:
Extend wires if they're too shorts, electrical tape all connections, and mount leds and the switch (I mounted my switch under the steering wheel base), hide stray wires under the dash, etc etc.

When you turn on the ignition to either ACC or ON, the lights will turn on, and you have the option to turn it off with the switch.If you don't care if they're on during the day (you can barely notice them anyways), feel free to skip the step with the switch.

Link to fuse tap, you can find them at autoshops:
http://autoplicity.com/products/2525...FQjc4Aodz2gArw

italia490 · 09-04-2012, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garudatwo

Italia, please let me know if you want this part removed:

Regarding the footwell light: I just installed a set of LED strips as footwell lights today. The process is very simple:

Parts: wires, push switch, red double ended wire connector thing, blue ring connector thing, fuse tap (small copper piece, not a tap a fuse), wire end connector: female (red) (think hella horn connectors)

Process: for the LED strips:

1)strip 1" off the clear wires of the LED strips, twist them together, and crimp them in the blue ring connector.
2)strip 1" off the colored wires, twist them together, and insert into one end of the double ended red wire connector.
3)take out the fuse for either the CIGAR or 12V in your fuse box, re-insert with the fuse tap piece.
4)connect one end of the push switch's cable to the red female connector, the other end into the unused hole of the double ended wire connector
5)connect the female connector to the fuse tap
6)connect the ring terminal to a ground (pick a screw that's attached to a metal part)

mount leds and the switch (I mounted my switch under the steering wheel base).

When you turn on the ignition to either ACC or ON, the lights will turn on, and you have the option to turn it off with the switch.

That's a good write-up. No need to remove it. There is however another thread that has been started in regards to this very topic. If it is alright with you, I can copy and paste it there or if you prefer if you want to do it....

garudatwo · 09-04-2012, 10:12 PM

I got chewed out before for posting different options for these little mods in pre-existing threads. On that topic if you want a flip key, a Hyundai Tuscan flip key case will work with almost no mods (you just have to solder the battery connector to the circuit, or electrical tape it). No need to hunt for legacy keys that match your FCC numbers or whatever.

Also, are you going to protect your fog light lens somehow? There was a thread about a GR STI with cracked fog lenses, so I used some screen door mesh to make a cover:

italia490 · 09-04-2012, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garudatwo

I got chewed out before for posting different options for these little mods in pre-existing threads. On that topic if you want a flip key, a Hyundai Tuscan flip key case will work with almost no mods (you just have to solder the battery connector to the circuit, or electrical tape it). No need to hunt for legacy keys that match your FCC numbers or whatever.

Also, are you going to protect your fog light lens somehow? There was a thread about a GR STI with cracked fog lenses, so I used some screen door mesh to make a cover:

You might want to start a different thread for the 2 mods mentioned above

garudatwo · 09-04-2012, 10:22 PM

They're somewhere in the "unique mods and DIY" thread, just thought you might be interested since they're functional and low cost mods (it'd seem you're in that phase of your project right now, do excuse me if I'm wrong)

italia490 · 09-04-2012, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garudatwo

They're somewhere in the "unique mods and DIY" thread, just thought you might be interested since they're functional and low cost mods (it'd seem you're in that phase of your project right now, do excuse me if I'm wrong)

I wish i wasn't in that phase...lol. Id rather be in the high dollar phase. I've thought about the flip key mod but it never went beyond that. I think if i were ever to mod the key I would opt for a keyless entry setup and push button start similar to the EDM STi's. As far as the fog lights go, if they break, they break. That will just give me the excuse to explore a more functional setup.

Algreen · 09-04-2012, 11:28 PM

Subscribed. Read your entire thread and am impressed with your ride. Keep it coming!

italia490 · 09-04-2012, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Algreen

Subscribed. Read your entire thread and am impressed with your ride. Keep it coming!

Thank you!

pkL · 09-05-2012, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by italia490

Sorry to hear about the troubles you are having with your car. It must be frustrating having your car at the dealer. If only they could fix things right the first time.
So when did the issues with your lights happen...when trying to install the led bumper reflectors or other bulbs in the tail light housing? If all your fuses are good, it could very well be a grounding issue, especially since you are experiencing shifting issues. When you get your car back, provided the dealership fixes the problem for you, I would reverse the steps by putting back the bulbs you took it with the original ones until the problem is fixed. Let me know when you get your car back and we'll get this resolved and everything working the way it's supposed to.

Okay thanks, I would really appreciate it. So basically there are two problems, a flashing AT oil temperature light, which seems to be an unresolved issue from last time my car was in the dealership and then there is the whole replacing tail light bulbs with SMD LEDs and hooking up the bumper LED reflectors issue, as far as I know before my car got towed only the brake lights seemed to work, I have no turn signal and I'm unsure if my parking lights or reverse lights work; since, I'm stuck in neutral and drive (this is the second problem).

The service manager is getting the same guy who fixed my car to look at my car again this time (except he was off today). I had pointed out to my service manager that I had changed my bulbs and he said that I would have to pay for the bulbs, which is fine by me, he didn't seem to mention anything about voiding warranty.

I still don't know how something this easy can get messed up.

myrt1987 · 09-05-2012, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garudatwo

Italia, please let me know if you want this part removed:

Parts: wires, push switch, red double ended wire connector thing, blue ring connector thing, fuse tap (small copper piece, not a tap a fuse), wire end connector: female (red) (think hella horn connectors)

Link to fuse tap, you can find them at autoshops:
http://autoplicity.com/products/2525...FQjc4Aodz2gArw

Which footwell kit did you buy? And you did this on a Non turbo impreza, correct?

garudatwo · 09-05-2012, 03:18 PM

Myrt,

It's not a footwell kit, you just buy the parts at an auto store/online. It's a universal mod, so you can have it work on a F150 with 0 change to the parts list/procedure.

myrt1987 · 09-05-2012, 03:22 PM

Oh I see. Thanks.

pkL · 09-06-2012, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garudatwo

Myrt,

It's not a footwell kit, you just buy the parts at an auto store/online. It's a universal mod, so you can have it work on a F150 with 0 change to the parts list/procedure.

Approximately how much was for all the parts?

garudatwo · 09-06-2012, 12:58 AM

Around $15, more if you don't have electrical tape/bits of wire around the house.

italia490 · 09-11-2012, 01:08 AM

Ok guys...back on topic. I am going rail-less.

I am swapping my roof rails with another member for standard roof trim. Never cared much for the rails and probably will never use them. Of course if I do, then I'll get the standard cross bars.

So here is a how to on removing the roof rails on the sport models. You will need the following tools: A phillips screw driver, a small flat head screw driver, 14mm socket and a 10mm socket and 10mm open end wrench. I have removed headliners before so the process of removing the rails took me 50 minutes without completely removing the headliner. Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you cause to yourcar or headliner if you attempt this process. With that being said, you can always PM if you have questions.

Remove all 4 grab handles by using the small flat head screw driver. Once you release the locking mechanism, they come out really easily. Next remove the sun visors. You'll need the phillips screw driver to remove 2 screws at the pivot point and the flat head screw driver to pry out the snap in portion. Next thing you'll want to do is pull the A pillar away from the frame. There is a latch mechanism that keeps the A pillar from flying around in the event of an accident the side curtain airbag is deployed. The A pillar comes away far enough though that you can get the headliner just past it. Next, move on to the B Pillars. Start by pulling the lower black trim, lower half, away from the top half. There is a 10mm bolt at the bottom of the upper half of the B pillar that will need to be removed. Next, pry away the trim over the top of the seat belt. This will expose the 14mm bolt that will need to be removed in over to take the top of the seat belt off. Start at the bottom of the trim and gently pull out towards the interior of the car releasing the retaining clips. Move on to the back of the car. Remove the C pillars. There is on phillips screw per side that will need to be removed. Once you have done that, then gently pry the panel away. There are 3 push type retainer clips at the back of the headliner that will also need to be removed. Use your flat head screw driver to release these and then pry them free. Please note that since I did not completely remove the headliner, there is no mention of removing the dome light and map light housings. This can be done by removing the clear plastic covers and exposing the phillips screws underneath. Once everything has been removed, it's time to pull the black rubber trim around the perimeter of the headliner allowing it to come down a bit. Another thing to note is that any excessive pressure or force on the headliner will cause it to crease.

There are a total of 6 10mm bolts on either side that will need to be removed. The threaded portion does have a bit of Loctite on them to keep them from coming loose. Once the bolts have been removed lift the rails straight up and off the car. At this point there are two more pieces of trim that will need to be removed. A piece of roof molding that sits around the middle of the roof and another piece that is at the front just behind the windshield. The middle piece slides off and there are 3 plastic clip retainers that will slide off as well. There are 3 little anchor points that the clip retainers mount to. For the front trim, the same type of mounting system is used but there is no way to slide the trim off the clips. Gently prying them up will release the trim.

The next thing you'll want to do is clean out all the debris that has accumulated underneath the rails...dirt, leaves, etc. I called my dealer aout the replacement roof trim and they want about $89 per side. Kind of ridiculous if you ask me. I am actually trading my roof rails for standard roof trim with another member. I have no need for the rails and quite frankly, IMO, I think the car looks better without them.

As far as all 12 holes needing to be welded shut, I do not think that is accurate. I don't have the replacement trim yet, but from pictures that I have seen there are at least 2 bolt holes that are re-used. My guess is that Subaru didn't take into consideration that some owners might want to remove the rails and replace them with regular trim so there is no quick and easy way of doing the swap.

There will most likely be unused holes for which I have procured rubber body plugs and will be using mil-spec silicone as added insurance against leaks.

The paint for the vents is also on order so I should have a half day worth of modding.

italia490 · 09-15-2012, 10:35 PM

I completed the install on the roof trim today as well as installing the bumper vents.

Here is a picture of the gutters prior to installing the trim retaining clips

Here is a picture with the clips installed

And finally the trim installed

This is a doable mod if you are interested in removing the sport rails and replacing them with regular roof trim. There is a considerable difference in the sport trim vs non sport roof design. If you have a sport model and are wanting to switch the rails you will have to drill 3 additional holes on either side towards the back of the car for the retaining clips and the two holes on either side that were already there will have to be plugged up. How they are plugged is entirely up to you. I will not recommend one method over another.

Here are the pics for the bumper vent install
Paint from Paintscratch.com

Pre-Paint

Basecoat

Clear coat and ready to

Here is the template I made. I test fit the vents and the fit was very snug.

Nice big gaping hole in a perfectly good bumper

Installed

italia490 · 09-15-2012, 10:35 PM

Washed and side view

Another view

garudatwo · 09-15-2012, 10:38 PM

Looks great! Though personally I think it'd look a little better in black to match the rest of the blue/black theme.

italia490 · 09-15-2012, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garudatwo

Looks great! Though personally I think it'd look a little better in black to match the rest of the blue/black theme.

Thanks.

I thought about going black but felt it might be too much. Of course, I could always plastidip them....

uspopo · 09-16-2012, 06:11 AM

That really looks great and I would keep the vents blue but black would look good also.

Stan

leonyuen · 09-20-2012, 02:46 PM

That looks sick! Don't know if I'd be brave enough to cut into my bumper though...

09-04-2012, 09:57 PM	#205
garudatwo Scooby Specialist Member#: 322385 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State	Italia, please let me know if you want this part removed: Regarding the footwell light: I just installed a set of LED strips as footwell lights today. The process is very simple: Parts: wires, push switch, red double ended wire connector thing, blue ring connector thing, fuse tap (small copper piece, not a tap a fuse), wire end connector: female (red) (think hella horn connectors) Process: for the LED strips: 1)strip 1" off the clear wires of the LED strips, twist them together, and crimp them in the blue ring connector. 2)strip 1" off the colored wires, twist them together, and insert into one end of the double ended red wire connector. 3)take out the fuse for either the CIGAR or 12V in your fuse box, re-insert with the fuse tap piece. 4)connect one end of the push switch's cable to the red female connector, the other end into the unused hole of the double ended wire connector 5)connect the female connector to the fuse tap 6)connect the ring terminal to a ground (pick a screw that's attached to a metal part) Common sense stuff: Extend wires if they're too shorts, electrical tape all connections, and mount leds and the switch (I mounted my switch under the steering wheel base), hide stray wires under the dash, etc etc. When you turn on the ignition to either ACC or ON, the lights will turn on, and you have the option to turn it off with the switch.If you don't care if they're on during the day (you can barely notice them anyways), feel free to skip the step with the switch. Link to fuse tap, you can find them at autoshops: http://autoplicity.com/products/2525...FQjc4Aodz2gArw Last edited by garudatwo; 09-04-2012 at 10:02 PM.

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09-03-2012, 05:14 PM	#202
myrt1987 Scooby Specialist Member#: 323103 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: toms river, nj Vehicle: 2012 Limited 2.0i Dreamy Gray Mistress	No i did not buy them yet. I want it as simple as possible. lol. Thats why i figure its easiest just to synch them with headlights. i leave the headlights on auto so they turn on/off by themselves. I just want to make it as simple as possible cause Im no electrician and have only done minor electrical work with my last car. Thats why I really wanted to find a diy, but nothing yet. Thanks for your guys help btw.

09-04-2012, 10:12 PM	#207
garudatwo Scooby Specialist Member#: 322385 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State	I got chewed out before for posting different options for these little mods in pre-existing threads. On that topic if you want a flip key, a Hyundai Tuscan flip key case will work with almost no mods (you just have to solder the battery connector to the circuit, or electrical tape it). No need to hunt for legacy keys that match your FCC numbers or whatever. Also, are you going to protect your fog light lens somehow? There was a thread about a GR STI with cracked fog lenses, so I used some screen door mesh to make a cover:

09-04-2012, 10:22 PM	#209
garudatwo Scooby Specialist Member#: 322385 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State	They're somewhere in the "unique mods and DIY" thread, just thought you might be interested since they're functional and low cost mods (it'd seem you're in that phase of your project right now, do excuse me if I'm wrong)

09-04-2012, 11:28 PM	#211
Algreen Scooby Newbie Member#: 268369 Join Date: Dec 2010 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Chicago Vehicle: 2012 Impreza Premium Ice Silver	Subscribed. Read your entire thread and am impressed with your ride. Keep it coming!

09-05-2012, 03:18 PM	#215
garudatwo Scooby Specialist Member#: 322385 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State	Myrt, It's not a footwell kit, you just buy the parts at an auto store/online. It's a universal mod, so you can have it work on a F150 with 0 change to the parts list/procedure.

09-05-2012, 03:22 PM	#216
myrt1987 Scooby Specialist Member#: 323103 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: toms river, nj Vehicle: 2012 Limited 2.0i Dreamy Gray Mistress	Oh I see. Thanks.

09-06-2012, 12:58 AM	#218
garudatwo Scooby Specialist Member#: 322385 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State	Around $15, more if you don't have electrical tape/bits of wire around the house.

09-11-2012, 01:08 AM	#219
italia490 Scooby Newbie Member#: 308742 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Orange County Vehicle: 2012 Impreza Sport Marine Blue Pearl	Ok guys...back on topic. I am going rail-less. I am swapping my roof rails with another member for standard roof trim. Never cared much for the rails and probably will never use them. Of course if I do, then I'll get the standard cross bars. So here is a how to on removing the roof rails on the sport models. You will need the following tools: A phillips screw driver, a small flat head screw driver, 14mm socket and a 10mm socket and 10mm open end wrench. I have removed headliners before so the process of removing the rails took me 50 minutes without completely removing the headliner. Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you cause to yourcar or headliner if you attempt this process. With that being said, you can always PM if you have questions. Remove all 4 grab handles by using the small flat head screw driver. Once you release the locking mechanism, they come out really easily. Next remove the sun visors. You'll need the phillips screw driver to remove 2 screws at the pivot point and the flat head screw driver to pry out the snap in portion. Next thing you'll want to do is pull the A pillar away from the frame. There is a latch mechanism that keeps the A pillar from flying around in the event of an accident the side curtain airbag is deployed. The A pillar comes away far enough though that you can get the headliner just past it. Next, move on to the B Pillars. Start by pulling the lower black trim, lower half, away from the top half. There is a 10mm bolt at the bottom of the upper half of the B pillar that will need to be removed. Next, pry away the trim over the top of the seat belt. This will expose the 14mm bolt that will need to be removed in over to take the top of the seat belt off. Start at the bottom of the trim and gently pull out towards the interior of the car releasing the retaining clips. Move on to the back of the car. Remove the C pillars. There is on phillips screw per side that will need to be removed. Once you have done that, then gently pry the panel away. There are 3 push type retainer clips at the back of the headliner that will also need to be removed. Use your flat head screw driver to release these and then pry them free. Please note that since I did not completely remove the headliner, there is no mention of removing the dome light and map light housings. This can be done by removing the clear plastic covers and exposing the phillips screws underneath. Once everything has been removed, it's time to pull the black rubber trim around the perimeter of the headliner allowing it to come down a bit. Another thing to note is that any excessive pressure or force on the headliner will cause it to crease. There are a total of 6 10mm bolts on either side that will need to be removed. The threaded portion does have a bit of Loctite on them to keep them from coming loose. Once the bolts have been removed lift the rails straight up and off the car. At this point there are two more pieces of trim that will need to be removed. A piece of roof molding that sits around the middle of the roof and another piece that is at the front just behind the windshield. The middle piece slides off and there are 3 plastic clip retainers that will slide off as well. There are 3 little anchor points that the clip retainers mount to. For the front trim, the same type of mounting system is used but there is no way to slide the trim off the clips. Gently prying them up will release the trim. The next thing you'll want to do is clean out all the debris that has accumulated underneath the rails...dirt, leaves, etc. I called my dealer aout the replacement roof trim and they want about $89 per side. Kind of ridiculous if you ask me. I am actually trading my roof rails for standard roof trim with another member. I have no need for the rails and quite frankly, IMO, I think the car looks better without them. As far as all 12 holes needing to be welded shut, I do not think that is accurate. I don't have the replacement trim yet, but from pictures that I have seen there are at least 2 bolt holes that are re-used. My guess is that Subaru didn't take into consideration that some owners might want to remove the rails and replace them with regular trim so there is no quick and easy way of doing the swap. There will most likely be unused holes for which I have procured rubber body plugs and will be using mil-spec silicone as added insurance against leaks. The paint for the vents is also on order so I should have a half day worth of modding.

09-15-2012, 10:35 PM	#220
italia490 Scooby Newbie Member#: 308742 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Orange County Vehicle: 2012 Impreza Sport Marine Blue Pearl	I completed the install on the roof trim today as well as installing the bumper vents. Here is a picture of the gutters prior to installing the trim retaining clips Here is a picture with the clips installed And finally the trim installed This is a doable mod if you are interested in removing the sport rails and replacing them with regular roof trim. There is a considerable difference in the sport trim vs non sport roof design. If you have a sport model and are wanting to switch the rails you will have to drill 3 additional holes on either side towards the back of the car for the retaining clips and the two holes on either side that were already there will have to be plugged up. How they are plugged is entirely up to you. I will not recommend one method over another. Here are the pics for the bumper vent install Paint from Paintscratch.com Pre-Paint Basecoat Clear coat and ready to Here is the template I made. I test fit the vents and the fit was very snug. Nice big gaping hole in a perfectly good bumper Installed

09-15-2012, 10:35 PM	#221
italia490 Scooby Newbie Member#: 308742 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Orange County Vehicle: 2012 Impreza Sport Marine Blue Pearl	Washed and side view Another view

09-15-2012, 10:38 PM	#222
garudatwo Scooby Specialist Member#: 322385 Join Date: Jun 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State	Looks great! Though personally I think it'd look a little better in black to match the rest of the blue/black theme.

09-16-2012, 06:11 AM	#224
uspopo Scooby Specialist Member#: 317014 Join Date: Apr 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY/CA Vehicle: 2012 Impreza Sp Ltd. Dark Grey Metallic	That really looks great and I would keep the vents blue but black would look good also. Stan

09-20-2012, 02:46 PM	#225
leonyuen Scooby Newbie Member#: 330720 Join Date: Aug 2012 Chapter/Region: W. Canada Location: Canada Vehicle: 2012 2.0i Sport 5dr White	That looks sick! Don't know if I'd be brave enough to cut into my bumper though...