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Old 09-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #1
Ti Pit
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Vehicle:
2005 Baja Turbo

Default Replacing rear shocks

I'm about to attempt the replacement of my rear shocks, I'm going out on a limb and trying some KYB's that don't actually say they fit but that I think might fit. We'll see how it goes. They are already purchased and waiting for me to get busy.

Now to make this quicker, I noticed the rear shocks seem to be connected somewhere on the inside, I'm just wondering if I should be dismantling the bed liner to get to the top plates or if I have to go from the inside and take apart the rear seat and then the plastic surround. I hope it isn't much of a pain in the ass to get to.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:22 PM   #2
Ahzlon
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2005 Baja Turbo
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YOu get to the rear top hats behind the rear seat.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:50 PM   #3
Ti Pit
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so I'm guessing I remove the plastic where the jack and the empty pocket are located?
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:32 PM   #4
SVO1
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yes remove those two pieces and you will expose the top two nuts for the upper strut mount.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:51 AM   #5
steven765
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Having just installed mine plan on an hour or two to assemble them if you're taking your time. Make sure to get the lower bolt hole 90 degrees to the line of the upper studs. I installed the 1" lift so that made mine even harder to install, but I suspect much of this will still apply. Two people are highly advised for this operation. Also if you have time go to a shop and have them do the springs with the wall mount compressor, the threaded rod ones from auto zone will be a real pain and will scratch the hell out of the powder coat on the springs.

For the installation i placed a 5ft concrete breaker bar on the body stop point and one of the trailing arms. Be careful not to bugger up the rear dust plate. I was literally hanging upside down with my legs wrapped around the bar and bouncing until bolt slid into the hole. I literally left a puddle of sweat on the garage floor. Loosen the top bolts so you have some play as the angle changes when the trailing arm flexes.

Then I got to the second shock:
To make it easier you still need the 5ft bar, but I placed a jack under the shock and compressed it up a bit. It took about 8 tries until the jack raised it just right so that when I lowered the armature the hole was in position for the bolt. Again not easy, yet much easier than not raising it, but I really could have used a second pair of hands.

Last edited by steven765; 09-16-2012 at 12:57 AM.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:55 AM   #6
steven765
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Then again I just occurred to me the kyb's aren't the same height as the factory ones, Yours should be easier. This could also mean the auto zone threaded spring compressor's will not work. On the factory height springs I barely had enough height to remove the compressor's. Just a heads up.

Make sure you bleed the air from the shocks. For the factory ones you have to compress them inverted, hold the top down and release it in the upright position anywhere from 4-15 times. The way to check is when the shock is upright and you push down on it you should immediately feel the fluid damper engage. If it drops an quickly then squishes into the fluid you have air in the stock still. Factory manual says to keep them upright once they are bleed to prevent air from seeping back in. And this is definitely true. I laid one on it's side for a few minutes just to see, sure enough air was back in. So once bleed keep them upright! This also means you have to put them together upright, I managed it, but wow again NOT FUN. It took two night ~2 hours each to assemble the shocks/struts at home with a complete new assemble of factory parts. Just as a heads up.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #7
hocrest
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Rather than use a 5' bar to spread down the hub. I followed the instructions in the FSM and used the stock screw jack between the knuckle and the body to get it down so the shock can be bolted up.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:28 PM   #8
Buck Rogers
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I don't recall the rear shocks being that much trouble when I did my 2' lift a few years back. I did use a jack to push the strut up until it lined up with the holes though, and I was working alone (took two and a half days to do the lift)

Buck
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:34 PM   #9
steven765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hocrest View Post
Rather than use a 5' bar to spread down the hub. I followed the instructions in the FSM and used the stock screw jack between the knuckle and the body to get it down so the shock can be bolted up.
RTFM Is that in the body manual?
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:45 PM   #10
hocrest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven765 View Post
RTFM Is that in the body manual?
I looked it up about a year before I had the Baja when I had to replace a strut on my step daughters 2000 Lego. It was in the suspension section, but I don't recall what year between 2000 & 2004 it was.
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