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Old 09-28-2012, 04:38 PM   #26
ans2k
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Originally Posted by goregasm
my friends say stuff like "you sound like a douche..."
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #27
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Thumbs down Seriously

Do you know what the power curve for the engine is? I certainly don't, but I would assume that Subaru chose 6k or 6.5k RPM (your provided information seems to vary on that) to provide optimum HP and therefore going over is not making you faster, but actually making you slower.

Please get yourself some automotive education, like reading some of the great many books out there or just about any of the amazing stickies on NASIOC, before you make another post.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:08 PM   #28
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durr r r
wuts en rpm
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:14 PM   #29
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Jesus christ, stop making things up and just drive off a limestone cliff into dick infested waters.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:17 PM   #30
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this forum is just ever so helpful
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:19 PM   #31
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this forum is just ever so helpful
It truly is.

The only trick is, you've got to want it, not beg for it.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:27 PM   #32
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It truly is.

The only trick is, you've got to want it, not beg for it.
Nah not really.

Prove it. Be useful for once. Is my car SUPPOSED to idle at 500RPM?
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:55 PM   #33
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Nah not really.

Prove it. Be useful for once. Is my car SUPPOSED to idle at 500RPM?
Does it idle constantly at 500RPM or does it fluctuate? Are there any recent changes? How many miles on the vehicle? What are you using to measure idle?
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:24 PM   #34
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Does it idle constantly at 500RPM or does it fluctuate? Are there any recent changes? How many miles on the vehicle? What are you using to measure idle?
It fluctuates, but it couldn't be more than between 450 and 550RPM. This is according to the tach but I had a cheap OBDII adapter on before and it said roughly the same (+/- 50-100 maybe). No recent changes. IIRC it's always done this, but I can't remember anything really. ~4500 miles. It also has a weird rumble when it's idle, it doesn't sound bad but it doesn't sound normal. I just ordered another OBDII adapter so, assuming it works, I can update Monday night to confirm that it's actually ~500RPM.

Another thing is I looked this up and people don't seem to think much of it, as if it's a subaru thing. What do you think?
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:41 PM   #35
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this forum is just ever so helpful
It doesn't work very well if you lie about what your car is doing.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:23 PM   #36
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It doesn't work very well if you lie about what your car is doing.
I don't...
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:32 PM   #37
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Cool

A few other things that are needed to confirm exactly what and why it's idling at ~500 would be the intake air temps and the engine temps. The ECM is not very complicated, but it makes complicated decisions based off it's preset map definitions and the logging it does of what's going on.

In short, the best way to help someone diagnose the issue would be to see a data log of when this occurs. The more detail the better.

Also, there is nothing wrong with an engine idling at 500 RPM, as long as it's not erratic and the ECM can keep up with the changes that need to be made to maintain idle. I had my '09 2.5i idling at 575-650 until I sold my AccessPort.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:07 AM   #38
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I don't...
Okay, then you broke something in your car. You said you could rev to 6,5k in the first post. Then you said you could only rev to 6k, unless you shifted to L in which case you could spin at 6750... You're lying or you broke your car. Or enlighten me on another possibility if there is one...
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:32 AM   #39
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duplicate post

Last edited by Zeeper; 10-01-2012 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:12 PM   #40
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Okay, then you broke something in your car. You said you could rev to 6,5k in the first post. Then you said you could only rev to 6k, unless you shifted to L in which case you could spin at 6750... You're lying or you broke your car. Or enlighten me on another possibility if there is one...
It's a CVT, 100% managed by the TCM. Certain driving conditions may change the rev limit. At least that's my thought, feel free to let me know if you disagree.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubyPhilly View Post
A few other things that are needed to confirm exactly what and why it's idling at ~500 would be the intake air temps and the engine temps. The ECM is not very complicated, but it makes complicated decisions based off it's preset map definitions and the logging it does of what's going on.

In short, the best way to help someone diagnose the issue would be to see a data log of when this occurs. The more detail the better.

Also, there is nothing wrong with an engine idling at 500 RPM, as long as it's not erratic and the ECM can keep up with the changes that need to be made to maintain idle. I had my '09 2.5i idling at 575-650 until I sold my AccessPort.
Cheap Chinese ODBII says 46C intake 96C coolant (only engine temp I can find) actual RPM when tach shows 500 = 650 (not as low, but still lower than I expect, but probably still normal)

Last edited by goregasm; 10-01-2012 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:57 PM   #41
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Cheap Chinese ODBII says 46C intake 96C coolant (only engine temp I can find) actual RPM when tach shows 500 = 650 (not as low, but still lower than I expect, but probably still normal)
650 RPM is perfectly fine for idle. Coolant temp is the temp I was looking for, measured at the hot side of the radiator IIRC. The engine may even idle a little lower if the IAT and coolant temps are a little lower. There is a heat compensation curve, too cold and idle will rise, too hot idle will raise. There is also a lower AFR in these conditions in an attempt to use the cooler fuel to lower the temp, or increased combustion to raise the temp.
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:31 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by ScubyPhilly View Post
650 RPM is perfectly fine for idle. Coolant temp is the temp I was looking for, measured at the hot side of the radiator IIRC. The engine may even idle a little lower if the IAT and coolant temps are a little lower. There is a heat compensation curve, too cold and idle will rise, too hot idle will raise. There is also a lower AFR in these conditions in an attempt to use the cooler fuel to lower the temp, or increased combustion to raise the temp.
Thanks!

Side note: 0-60 in a zippy 10.1 seconds. What is the new gen prius? 10.0? I know it's not a track car, but damn...
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:49 PM   #43
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The TCM is programmable, now is there a software out there that Subaru doesn't currently hide deep down inside their corporate loveliness, IDK...
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:39 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by goregasm View Post
It's a CVT, 100% managed by the TCM. Certain driving conditions may change the rev limit. At least that's my thought, feel free to let me know if you disagree.
That seems odd but it could be true. It would seem that it would be under the same conditions both times, right? You were WOT the first time and WOT the second time. The first time it revved up to 6.5, the second only to 6. I'm not sure what exactly it would have changed in response to driving conditions and why. Specifically, altering the rev limiter seems like a very odd thing to do when you're going WOT.

If you had just disconnected your battery and the ECU/TCU was relearning, that would make sense to me.

I guess we'd have to take a trip to Japan and ask the engineer what's up. I guess also that the fact that it's a CVT makes the programming even more of a mystery to me.

Last edited by tibug; 10-01-2012 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:22 AM   #45
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That seems odd but it could be true. It would seem that it would be under the same conditions both times, right? You were WOT the first time and WOT the second time. The first time it revved up to 6.5, the second only to 6. I'm not sure what exactly it would have changed in response to driving conditions and why..
There are so many other factors at play it's ridiculous. I'm under the impression that the driving conditions were not identical which is the only way to compare two pulls.

With that said, it does seem strange that the "optimum" RPM would change.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:44 PM   #46
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Thanks!

Side note: 0-60 in a zippy 10.1 seconds. What is the new gen prius? 10.0? I know it's not a track car, but damn...
I think some website i saw got under 10sec. you can probably get a faster time with paddle shifters. but either way the car was made to maximize mpg for an awd car so its gonna be terrible.

i think its safe to say you are not happy with this car OP. why not get a wrx?
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:18 PM   #47
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If you cared about acceleration over MPG's, you bought the wrong car.

If you really really cared about acceleration, performance, and bending the car to your will at HPDE, you also bought the wrong transmission.
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:56 PM   #48
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I think some website i saw got under 10sec. you can probably get a faster time with paddle shifters. but either way the car was made to maximize mpg for an awd car so its gonna be terrible.

i think its safe to say you are not happy with this car OP. why not get a wrx?
I am, it's just embarrassing when my friend gets better mpg in an A6 3.2 (26 me vs 27 them, both almost the same route each day)

One other thing, my local gas station (holiday, top tier) sells their 87 oct for the same as their 89 since they're both e10 so I put some in for the hell of it... not gonna hurt anything, and I swear it's just slightly more torque-y in some situations, is this possible or placebo? I know some cars can adjust for slightly higher octane.

TWO OTHER THING, what is "Timing Adv" in Torque (OBDII reading app for android)? It's from like -5 to 70 usually.

Last edited by goregasm; 10-02-2012 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:05 PM   #49
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The difference in octane is most likely a placebo to u. Although every car can adjust for timing mostly either neutral or retard timing. If u get crappy gas and causes the car to knock then your ecu will retard the timing and make the car feel slower. Theoretically, if you constantly got crappy gas then the ecu will always retard the timing and the car will always feel slow and under power. This will then be come the "normal". And when given better gas the ecu will set the timing back to whatever it was programed at neutral. Making the car faster than what you would be used to. In this case, faster is relative or in relation to using ****ty gas and not an actually increase in power or more than 148 hp.

Last edited by ans2k; 10-02-2012 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:50 PM   #50
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The difference in octane is most likely a placebo to u. Although every car can adjust for timing mostly either neutral or retard timing. If u get crappy gas and causes the car to knock then your ecu will retard the timing and make the car feel slower. Theoretically, if you constantly got crappy gas then the ecu will always retard the timing and the car will always feel slow and under power. This will then be come the "normal". And when given better gas the ecu will set the timing back to whatever it was programed at neutral. Making the car faster than what you would be used to. In this case, faster is relative or in relation to using ****ty gas and not an actually increase in power or more than 148 hp.
Figured that. I'll keep using it just because it won't do any harm and feels just a little bit different. Since it's TT gas I doubt it's "crappy" but if it feels faster to me then what's the harm? :P
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