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Old 09-24-2012, 01:41 PM   #101
05EJ25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbertmurphy View Post
what is the average life span on kinugawas? i see junior is saying they're good and a lot of guys buying them but then i see a post saying it lasted a year and starts to **** the bed. people use blouch turbos for years and have no issues. the bottom line is in the end of the day you get what you pay for. blouch is proven kinugawa is trying to make a name for it's self but so far it's been a spotty performance record. i'd rather pay big bucks one time and have peace of mind that my turbo isn't going to died after a year unless something out of the ordinary happens rather then 800ish every 1-3 years. the kinugawa 25g is very apealing but where is the proven power? i'm not down playing kinugawa, i'm looking to be sold on them.
Blouch 18g blown in less then a year. FPred blown in 6 months.... need I go on? I changed these off of friends cars. It happens to ANY turbo. Luck of draw and proper installation. I know people who got like two years out of ebay $300 turbos so your blanket statement means nothing to me. I got 80k (5years) hard miles out of a fake green.
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Last edited by 05EJ25; 09-24-2012 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:00 PM   #102
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I too have gone the knock off route before and it ended with a turbo that didn't seal properly and i was out $800. if you buy a turbo from blouch or fp and it blows out within a year they will either repair or replace it with a new one asap. like i said i'm not knocking them i just want to see longevity out of them. the td06 with a 60-1 or the 25g sounds very appealing, but i don't want to be out another $800 dollars when i could just save up some more and know i have a good turbo is what i'm saying.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:52 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbertmurphy View Post
I too have gone the knock off route before and it ended with a turbo that didn't seal properly and i was out $800. if you buy a turbo from blouch or fp and it blows out within a year they will either repair or replace it with a new one asap. like i said i'm not knocking them i just want to see longevity out of them. the td06 with a 60-1 or the 25g sounds very appealing, but i don't want to be out another $800 dollars when i could just save up some more and know i have a good turbo is what i'm saying.
"asap," is a subjective term. You have downtime in removing it from your car, you sending it out, they determine it was their fault or yours, then you get a new unit back or a repaired one. You're looking at a week if not more minimum. And out shipping on your end out to them. Not much different from any other company, US based or not.

You're logic is skewed.
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:12 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teiva-boy

"asap," is a subjective term. You have downtime in removing it from your car, you sending it out, they determine it was their fault or yours, then you get a new unit back or a repaired one. You're looking at a week if not more minimum. And out shipping on your end out to them. Not much different from any other company, US based or not.

You're logic is skewed.
No the logic is not skewed, you missed his point entirely. If it fails within a year they will fix it for free, but when it happened to his $800 turbo he had to just eat the cost.
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:21 PM   #105
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5000+ hard miles of antilag, no bov, and rotational idle to ball busting als in a second, here.

kamak made evo 3.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:22 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbertmurphy View Post
I too have gone the knock off route before and it ended with a turbo that didn't seal properly and i was out $800. if you buy a turbo from blouch or fp and it blows out within a year they will either repair or replace it with a new one asap. like i said i'm not knocking them i just want to see longevity out of them. the td06 with a 60-1 or the 25g sounds very appealing, but i don't want to be out another $800 dollars when i could just save up some more and know i have a good turbo is what i'm saying.
What brand was the "knock off" turbo
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:41 PM   #107
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Just an fyi, kinugawa also has a year warranty but I really don't know how to go about warranty repairs or exchange. I think they have an office here In Ca, but from my experience these parts are being shipped from Taiwan.
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:52 AM   #108
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What would be the ideal turbo from these guys for 330whp/350tq max on 91? I searched around and didn't find many 2011+ WRX/STi owners running them.
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:03 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROcede
What would be the ideal turbo from these guys for 330whp/350tq max on 91? I searched around and didn't find many 2011+ WRX/STi owners running them.
20G size turbo
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:55 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbertmurphy View Post
I too have gone the knock off route before and it ended with a turbo that didn't seal properly and i was out $800. if you buy a turbo from blouch or fp and it blows out within a year they will either repair or replace it with a new one asap. like i said i'm not knocking them i just want to see longevity out of them. the td06 with a 60-1 or the 25g sounds very appealing, but i don't want to be out another $800 dollars when i could just save up some more and know i have a good turbo is what i'm saying.
Didn't seal properly? You should have taken the covers off of the CHRA and checked the compressor seal. How come pretty much every other turbo car enthusiast group knows how to do this and actually build their own turbos, only sending the wheels off to get balanced? What is wrong with Subaru owners?

Anyway, update:

Squidz, yeah FP moved since 2001-2002 or my memory of that date is bit flipped.

After taking the chra off, I noticed a slightly bent turbine blade (bent upwards). I sent the CHRA back for a new one, but no one seems to have the 6.5mm shaft hole billet 25G compressor wheel in stock (Kinugawa has some 7mm shaft ones left, but those fit the TD07 based CHRAs). That, or Kamak has decided to go the Apple route and promote their own line of turbos at prices higher than FP or Blouch. They seem somewhat schizo about their pricing in talking with them. Kamak will be having a showing at SEMA this year, so who knows what they are planning.

However, Kinugawa was nice enough to be honest with me and refund $200 and send a regular TD06SL2-25G CHRA (FP Green Copy, but with a 5x5 blade compressor wheel).

The billet actuator is not built like the Forge Motorsports actuator (and neither are the Kamak actuators). It is still a spring and membrane type actuator that is simply serviceable. The Forge Motorsport actuator uses a silicon half moon that the spring sits against instead of a flimsy membrane. I plan on using my Forge Actuator with the turbo instead. Besides going external, nothing beats a Forge Motorsports actuator.

I'll have pics up soon. My slurry of upgrade parts are sitting waiting to be installed as I am performing service on my wife's car right now.

BTW peeps... My Blouch turbo seal wore out several years ago and I just keep the boost low. I will rebuild it for 50 bucks soon.

I did find this site for people looking for Billet wheels (they are making all types and bringing back some old school types):

Snail turbo.

Many places will balance your turbo.

Here is one example.

Midwest Turbo

Of course if you have a turbo shop locally, usually it only costs $50 when changing wheels.

You all have a turbo car. When upgrading, I suggest you learn about turbos and how they operate instead of jumping on a bandwagon.

So for ordering a turbo overseas, I initially paid $905 for the billet stuff. I ended up paying $735 dollars for a good turbo with all the installation parts necessary. Did I mention it has the advanced 25G wheel and the anti-surge compressor housing?

An ex-boss once told me, you can throw money at a problem to fix it. You can also throw knowledge at a problem to fix it. In this case my boss was wrong and the people throwing knowledge at the problem are still winning in that particular business (not car related).

Gabe
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:45 PM   #111
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Although the actuator is a membrane type, it is pretty good.

Gripes:
  • Hex bolts like to strip so I have replaced mine with some bought from Lowes
  • Has the extra port on the spring side to add boost pressure for better boost control, but does not seal as well in this mode as the Forge Motorsports Actuator

Here is a test (20 PSI spring):


Last edited by gabedude; 10-04-2012 at 05:02 PM. Reason: Ha, that was too easy to embed the video.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:32 PM   #112
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What kind of boost (therefore exhaust pressure) are you supporting with the 20 PSI spring?
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:03 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
What kind of boost (therefore exhaust pressure) are you supporting with the 20 PSI spring?
Unknown variable. It is an 8CM^2 or .57 A/R with all port matched G/S pipes to the turbo and a 3 inch catless out back (one of my other upgrades is the G/S up pipe). I can hit 35 PSI with my Blouch TD05 20G and a non port matched (G/S x-pipe, nvidia up) with the actuator it came with. I have not dared to try and boost higher on that turbo. There is going to be some back pressure, and 10CM^2 would be better, but I will just have to see. I also have a 28 PSI spring I can add in.

I know people had some problems in the past with the regular actuators on these turbos, but I have seen some plots where boost on this turbo with this actuator (20 PSI spring) just shoots up @ ~3800 RPM. I might run another test with some springs holding gate shut, but I doubt I will need to. If it is laggy, I will just bolt the gate closed and see how it spools, then go from there.

EVO guys are seeing good results with the new actuators as well as some folks in Australia and NZ.

The only EVO guys who had problems were using a TD05 turbine wheel + 25G compressor wheel. This is two steps up.

Mainly, I just wanted to make sure it worked and did not leak.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:23 PM   #114
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Check this thread out from evolutionm.net.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/10422924-post112.html

You have to login to see his road dyno, but its pretty much 500/500 on 93 oct.

I am shooting for 450WTQ/450WHP reliably on 93 and 500/500 on E85.

Considering this was my best run with the TD05/20G, this should be no problem. Right now I am clutch limited, but of course that is another part sitting around waiting to be installed.

My best run on my Blouch TD05 20G (E85):



What is cool about their upgrade is it only costs them around 300-400 (plus supporting mods) for the turbo parts. Since they already have the TD05/06 Cartridge (Center Housing), they can simply bore the stock turbine housing, order a Compressor housing + 25G wheel kit, order the TD06-SL2 turbine wheel, balance it and assemble + tune. Lucky bastards.

Last edited by gabedude; 10-04-2012 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:19 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by wrxsubiemod View Post
Who said it lasted a year?

I'm using one now and it's Awesome. I rebuild and build turbos and theses guys did it right and used the right thrust plate. If I saw anything I didn't like I would change that part,complain on nasioc about how ****ty they are and continue about my day.

So far things are good and I'm very happy. Saved myself $1200. If I need new bearings or a rebuild I could do it for $50 lol. If anyone needs new wheels or upgrades kinugawa sells individual parts too.

Win win. If you want to spend money for a logo by all means : )
The difference between a BLOUCH and a KANDO (Ebay Turbo) is more then that isn't it? ie: The blouch has a better designed wheel and will yield more hp at the same boost levels?
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:56 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by c9912033

The difference between a BLOUCH and a KANDO (Ebay Turbo) is more then that isn't it? ie: The blouch has a better designed wheel and will yield more hp at the same boost levels?
Blouch's old cast wheels or the billets?
Are we comparing apples to oranges?
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:24 AM   #117
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I just bought one for my 2011 WRX build, upgraded from the HTA68.
Kamak 20 GTX STS w/9-blade wheel


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Old 10-21-2012, 10:44 AM   #118
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Originally Posted by gabedude View Post
Has the extra port on the spring side to add boost pressure for better boost control, but does not seal as well in this mode as the Forge Motorsports Actuator
I have now the Kinugawa actuator that works for my turbo and have the 18 PSI spring. It has the extra port.
By not sealing you refer to the seal around the actuator rod?
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:40 PM   #119
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Where are you guys buying your Kamak turbos and how much???
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:49 PM   #120
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I got my direct from George this was a custom built one for me and my new setup. I received a very good price for doing a write up and tune report. I can not give the price but they were very fair. Based on actually seeing the turbo and holding it, my tuner said it looked to be of very good quality and he was pleasently surprised. The guys in the shop also agreed and that they wer surprised with the quality and VSR balance CHRA. That said we should see Dyno numbers in a month need to break in the new motor etc.
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:53 PM   #121
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Where are you guys buying your Kamak turbos and how much???
Flea Bay!
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:21 PM   #122
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My stupidity and my kinugawa blew my transmission. Thought it was the turbo cryng for help but it was the bearings in the transmission giving out. This turbo has been good to me. No rebuilds yet. The casting and machining on these is very good.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:11 AM   #123
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Hmm interesting been researching these turbos for a while and now im getting more convinced in getting one for my 05 STi.

I hear Skyline guys using them with success

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...ynamics-turbo/
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:05 AM   #124
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If you guys want the billet wheels, go onto the kamak website.
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:40 AM   #125
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How much do the STS turbos run for?
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