Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday August 27, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Subaru Models > Baja Forum

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-03-2012, 09:19 AM   #1
Panhead Jim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 325375
Join Date: Jul 2012
Vehicle:
2006 Baja Sport
Silver

Default ARE cap install

Found an ARE cap for my '06. I've got to travel for it, and will only have a short time window for install. Any tips about what to carry with me and what to be prepared for will be greatly appreciated. It is remove from other Baja and install on mine, and I will be alone. Sounds like I'm stealing it, don't it?
Thank you in advance.
Jim
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Panhead Jim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2012, 11:58 AM   #2
canuck37
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 87491
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Fraser Valley, BC
Vehicle:
03 Sport
Blk/Slvr

Default

Well, all I can tell you is that they are a huge PITA to install and get sealed properly. When I ordered mine from the ARE dealer, I knew from the look on his face that he wasn't all that thrilled with the order! When it came in, they had to make a special brace out of 2x4s on the inside and use tie down winch straps to suck it down tight enough to get the bolts in place. It also needed one guy on top for weight! After a couple of hours, they got it on.

First time washing the car, it leaked like a sieve. Took it back in, they removed it and then tried again. There is also some gooey gasket gunk that comes with it from the factory that has to be used as well to assure water tight fit. The gaskets are really tricky to seat right and twist easily, especially given the tricky install! I was advised to not remove it, unless I didn't care about it being water-tight, which I don't plan on anyway. Also, given it fits so tight against the cab, I was told to expect paint damage from friction rubbing....

Definitely not the same as installing a cap on a pickup, since you have the whole issue of fitting it to the cab itself and not just a free-floating fit like on a truck.

All in all, I am happy with the ARE cap and will not be removing it. I suspect it might be easier to install without the gasket seal and the gunk, but then you have the water leaks to deal with.
canuck37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2012, 12:12 PM   #3
sfeather11
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 220466
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Landenberg, PA
Vehicle:
2003 Baja
Silverstone

Default

Hey there,
Was in a similar situation when I picked up mine. Fortunately, the guys I bought it from helped me lift it onto the back. It is rather heavy and extremely bulky for one person to do it. I've never actually lifted it by myself. The only way I can think of to do it would be to open the hatch, crawl underneath and "turtle" it on your back?? Bring help!

One nice thing is that there are only four attachment points that hold it to the bed, and they are actually the screws that hold the sides (the bedliner). IIRC they are torx heads (dont remember the size), so being a few. Once you do get the cap lifted on, it may be a challenge to get the holes lined up, especially the front left and front right. I actually drove home with only the rear 2 screws holding it on! Once I got it home I used a dremel to widen the holes in the cap until the screws went in. Because the holes are now larger, I have to use a cup washer between the screw and the cap to secure it, but its really no big deal. I've heard of a method some dealers use where they a 2x4 in between the sides of the cap up front, hook a ratchet strap the the cargo hold downs, wrap the strap over the 2x4 and ratchet it down until the holes line up, but I didnt want to mess with that...

Oh, and you have to figure a way to wire the 3rd brake light as there is no way to easily connect it. I ended up tapping into the existing brake light and wiring a speaker terminal next to it so I can easily connect/disconnect the wiring...

Hope everything works out, I think the cap really "makes" the car. I love having the covered bed and locking storage...

Peace!
Scott
sfeather11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2012, 12:45 PM   #4
Panhead Jim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 325375
Join Date: Jul 2012
Vehicle:
2006 Baja Sport
Silver

Default

I'll be a-turtlin! Did it all the time with my previous truck cap, which was twice as big and twice as heavy, also fiberglass. I'm gonna look hard at the 2X4 ratchet thing. Did you watch? Where did they brace the board? Did they tie the board down in the slots with turnbuckles or something? What did they attach to under the cap? Do I need longer bolts, or will the stockers work fine?
Thank you very much!
Jim
Panhead Jim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2012, 04:03 PM   #5
sfeather11
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 220466
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Landenberg, PA
Vehicle:
2003 Baja
Silverstone

Default

I saw a video or picture somewhere a while ago. Nothing too precise or tricky, the 2x4 is cut to length so that it spans across the bed and rests inside the cap on top of the bottom "lip" (bottom edges of the cap below the windows). One end of the ratchet strap is hooked to the cargo tie down near the bottom of the bed sidewall (below the 2x4), the strap is then routed up over the 2x4 once, and the other end is hooked to the cargo tie down on the other side. Once you begin ratcheting, you will be pulling the 2x4 downward and the cap along with it. One caution though, I've heard that you reeeeeally have to crank it down to get the holes to line up. I've even heard of some guys breaking the 2x4!

Speaking to Canuck's points, This cap is by no means water tight. I do get water trickling in where the cap meets the cab, but it is not much in my opinion and the bed is obviously drier than no cap at all! I plan on taking mine of here in the next week or so, and definitely expect to see some paint damage on the roof and sides from the cap. It's a trade-off for having the cap in the 1st place I suppose. For me, it is still a great option to have. It really is a well made cap and the utility you gain is worth the few quirks...

Oh, 1 other thing. When I broght mine home and removed it to clean it, I went to Lowe's (HD would have it too)and bought some "camper install tape" and applied it to the underside of the cap where it sits on the bed rails and cab. My thinking is it would help keep the edge of the fiberglass off the paint. The tape is essentially 1" wide foam (medium density) and sticky on 1 side. I think it was 1/8" thick, but this may actually be too thick as it makes the holes that much harder to line up...

Peace!
sfeather11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #6
canuck37
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 87491
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Fraser Valley, BC
Vehicle:
03 Sport
Blk/Slvr

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfeather11 View Post
I saw a video or picture somewhere a while ago. Nothing too precise or tricky, the 2x4 is cut to length so that it spans across the bed and rests inside the cap on top of the bottom "lip" (bottom edges of the cap below the windows). One end of the ratchet strap is hooked to the cargo tie down near the bottom of the bed sidewall (below the 2x4), the strap is then routed up over the 2x4 once, and the other end is hooked to the cargo tie down on the other side. Once you begin ratcheting, you will be pulling the 2x4 downward and the cap along with it. One caution though, I've heard that you reeeeeally have to crank it down to get the holes to line up. I've even heard of some guys breaking the 2x4!

Speaking to Canuck's points, This cap is by no means water tight. I do get water trickling in where the cap meets the cab, but it is not much in my opinion and the bed is obviously drier than no cap at all! I plan on taking mine of here in the next week or so, and definitely expect to see some paint damage on the roof and sides from the cap. It's a trade-off for having the cap in the 1st place I suppose. For me, it is still a great option to have. It really is a well made cap and the utility you gain is worth the few quirks...

Oh, 1 other thing. When I broght mine home and removed it to clean it, I went to Lowe's (HD would have it too)and bought some "camper install tape" and applied it to the underside of the cap where it sits on the bed rails and cab. My thinking is it would help keep the edge of the fiberglass off the paint. The tape is essentially 1" wide foam (medium density) and sticky on 1 side. I think it was 1/8" thick, but this may actually be too thick as it makes the holes that much harder to line up...

Peace!
Yeah, the installers did break the 1st 2x4.then they went to an "X" type brace the second time. A piece of 1x4 channel iron would be best, if you had some scrap lying around. Those ratchets really need to suck down hard.......best of luck!
canuck37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 08:35 AM   #7
Panhead Jim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 325375
Join Date: Jul 2012
Vehicle:
2006 Baja Sport
Silver

Default

Well...
I didn't break the 2X4, but I thought I was going to. Long story short, it's on there and we're home safe and sound. I will be taking it right back off to fine-tune the fiberglass and get the best seal I can. I'm going to use a dremel to fine fit the glass to the truck around all the little obstructions. I think it will produce a better seal and will make the install much easier. Hindsight, I think the mechanical interference between the glass and the cab / bartops / plastic, etc. is much more trouble on the install than the gaskets are. I've got hard connections, glass to truck, all around the top stuff - so when you're pulling it down, you're trying to overcome all of that as opposed to just a rubber gasket. Thankfully though, the PO did not relieve the holes in the cap for easier install. I did get a good look at his truck following removal, and it is a mess. All that stuff around the top is buggered up really bad from mechanical interference with the cap. I'm just not going to let that happen to mine. Otherwise, love the cap. Looks great, works great, glad to finally have it on there.
Panhead Jim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 11:13 PM   #8
Benhart21
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 149617
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Boulder
Default

I put mine back on today and didn't have to do anything special to get any of the holes to line up. This is the third time mine has been put on, the first being when I bought it brand new, and none of the holes have been altered. The only help needed was my friend lifting it with me when we put it back on. I do probably have one of the only ones out there that locks and unlocks with the factory keyless entry. The installer said it was an option, but then learned that it wasn't supposed to be for the Baja cap, but since I had paid for it already they did the conversion anyway.
Benhart21 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 07:49 AM   #9
Panhead Jim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 325375
Join Date: Jul 2012
Vehicle:
2006 Baja Sport
Silver

Default a little closure, and a suggestion for anyone mounting an ARE cap on Baja

99% of the pull-down issue with the front of the cap is MECHANICAL INTERFERENCE with the cab of the truck and the black top rails. I had my new (to me) ARE cap off for lock repairs last weekend and took my Dremel to it. Bought a little 1" rolled cone grinder tool and carefully went to work. Relieved it all the way around the front where it was hitting the truck cab and the top rails. Had to take a lot off, especially around the top rails, just went slow and used light pressure. I hand sanded when finished. Then I put it on the truck and sucked it down, marked the last little places, jacked up the front with a 2X4 between the cap and the third tail light, and fine tuned the last little bit. Dropped her down and viola, great fit and no rub on the cab and perfect seal. I used a little camper tape on the top trim where the little dips are to ensure a good seal there, one on each side. Didn't even bend the board, much less break it. Bottom line, the cap is well made, but the factory fit at the front is poor. I saw first hand on the truck my cap came off of how bad the damage to the truck can be if this is not done. Take your time, relieve it to fit, and you will be much much happier with the result.
Peace,
Jim
Panhead Jim is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.