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Old 10-02-2012, 11:01 PM   #1
SubWrx13
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Default Need serious techs help! Such a headache.

Ok so I basically bought a wrx in lets just say essentially unknown condition.

Heres the known:

02 132k engine
Bigger intercooler
aem intake
3"turboback exhaust
Aluminum radiator
Hks bov

Since purchase 1 month ago....:

CEL CAME ON:
Misfire 2 &4

New coils
New plugs oem
New fuel filter
Cleaned MAF (ran worse when disconnected)

Got in car wont shift...
Fixed with
Different tranny (05)
Installed boost gauge

CEL still on...
Boost flutters ONLY when holding throttle up at 15lbs boost for a while between 12-17lbs
Lag on power..
extremely jerky under load ...


Now reads
P0031
P0546

Installed new bosch $200 sensor

CEL finally off!

I think im in the clear car is running great!!!!

Nope....

Now boost gauge flutters all the time in vacuum under low load especially if holding at a constant speed.
Vacuum holds at 20 during idle. Boosts fine. Holds 15lbs fine no flutter. Only on low throttle is there flitter now but it goes crazy!! Wierd that it only started after new o2 sensor.

Could pipe have cracked during o2 replacement?? It was terribly stuck in there. Had to pay shop $30 to remove it.



Now a day later... got a new code on again!!! Now its the rear o2 sensor. Forgot code numbers but essentially
02 sensor code: bank 1 sensor 2
02 stuck rich
02 stuck lean

Is it possible my ecu is just crap? Why do I keep needing new sensor after the other? Im getting so frustrated that im seriously considering never getting another subaru again... Please help!!! Im not a mechanic and I clearly got screwed here..

Also when I start the car in the morning there is a terrible knock somewhere in the engine compartment until it warms up...
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:05 PM   #2
SubWrx13
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Also I did a compression test before buying car and it checked clear all were 152 one was 147
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:34 AM   #3
Fir3Fighter
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Is your boost gauge installed right? (No offense)
Hks bov is main reason you are getting lean and rich codes... along with the TBE.
Is the TBE catless? If so thats why your rear o2 sensor is out.
If i were you i would put the stock or an aftermarket Bypass valve back on, then i would either change or pull the rear o2 and buy an Ap or get a tune to eliminate the codes.
Is the up-pipe still the stock catted up-pipe? If so change that immediately so you wont have to buy a Turbo along with the other stuff.
I hope this helps out somewhat. I went through the same except for the boost gauge, and i bought a new up-pipe, crosspipe and a Cobb Ap and it fixed everything. Good luck
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:01 AM   #4
Dr. octagon
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get with someone in your local forum and have them put eyes on it
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:03 AM   #5
rdieder
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Should have bought a Denso sensor.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:54 AM   #6
JdMS13
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Shouldn't of bought a modded car...
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:29 PM   #7
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fir3Fighter
Is your boost gauge installed right? (No offense)
Hks bov is main reason you are getting lean and rich codes... along with the TBE.
Is the TBE catless? If so thats why your rear o2 sensor is out.
If i were you i would put the stock or an aftermarket Bypass valve back on, then i would either change or pull the rear o2 and buy an Ap or get a tune to eliminate the codes.
Is the up-pipe still the stock catted up-pipe? If so change that immediately so you wont have to buy a Turbo along with the other stuff.
I hope this helps out somewhat. I went through the same except for the boost gauge, and i bought a new up-pipe, crosspipe and a Cobb Ap and it fixed everything. Good luck
Yes its installed to the right line my mechanic actually installed it wrong initially. And as I said it didnt do it when I had a bad o2. Installed a new one and instant flutter.

I believe rear o2 is universal with something else on it maybe resistor?? Not sure whats up back there.. But I believe theres still a cat on there.

As soon as I can afford to my next purchase is uppipe, cobb bpv and tuning unless I have a bigger problem from flutter like bad valve guides... Uppipe is stock and im aware of the turbo killing capabilities it has. Thank you for the advice though there.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:32 PM   #8
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JdMS13
Shouldn't of bought a modded car...
In all fairness 3 of the 6 mods are actually to help it run better, not for more power or bad for engine.
aluminum radiator, bigger intercooler, and greddy bar arent big mods.

As for the TBE, BOV, and air intake those arent huge gains either. However I agree that it was probably beaten on for sure and possibly heavily which would be a bad possibility.

But thats not really due to the mods. Even a bone stock wrx can be a p.o.s. after 15k of pure abuse..
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:18 PM   #9
SubWrx13
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I think it may be the o2 senzor by bosch. The car wouldnt flutter before installing the new sensor.
Also just took it for a drive after sitting around all day and with a cold engine theres absolutely no flutter until she suddenly warms up and it kicks on the sensors im assuming...

Oddly this $200 sensor was also discontinued according to my parts store. So I called in and im going to defect it out. And friday I am getting a new denso for $10 more. Hope this is the fix... Can anyone weigh in on if an o2 sensor would cause this behavior?

Thanks
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:04 PM   #10
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I highly doubt an 02 sensor can cause all of this. How is your gas mileage. Your gas mileage can tell you a lot about how your 02 sensors are performing. When the oxygen sensor fails, the computer can no longer sense the air/fuel ratio, so it ends up guessing. Your car performs poorly and uses more fuel than it needs to. All in all check to make sure your car is tuned! You said you have an intake and TBE. Please make sure your car is professionally tuned. If its not, Your car will trigger all those CEL lights. Would you know if the previous owner put a tune on it? Because even though that year subaru can go awhile without a tune, with all those miles i would hope somewhere in that cars life its been tuned somehow. And that knocking sound you hear in the morning is pretty normal for a subaru with all those miles. Its Piston Slap. Car cannot handle much abuse without a rebuild.. Im telling you that much. Next step is Rod knock.. and a spun Bearing..
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:09 PM   #11
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If i were you i would put all the stock **** back on the car and run it like that.. The car is giving you a lot of trouble. Enjoy it longer by converting it back to stock, until u can get the block inspected and rebuild.. Putting all these mods on is just straining the poor car. Previous owner beat the **** out the car and it cannot handle anymore abuse for much longer. Im telling you. You should have never purchased a modified car. Subaru's are fragile machines. Get that engine out and rebuild it ASAP bro!
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:13 PM   #12
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Search for Bosch sensors in the service and maintainence thread. Lots of hit and miss with them.
You can't go wrong with what oem uses.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #13
SubWrx13
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I was talking about another problem on a seperate forum but we ended up talking about this new one briefly.. I may have found problem.

As I said on cold engine theres NO flutter at all until it warms up. Compression test was good. So wouldnt it make sense if its bad internals I would have flutter ALL THE TIME? since it clearly starts about 5-10 min into driving cold I assumed that I plugged in new o2 and it was bad or something else in that same computer system.. then I got an awesome lead!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaronfitz
i was having a very similar problem. if you havent already just try unplugging your MAF and going for a short drive. its too easy and quick not to try
Hey just unplugged MAF. Car died. Then I closed engine and fired her back up. Flutter is completely gone! I believe you must be right. Bad MAF

Do I drive for now no Maf til replaced or use old one?
Maybe its just a horrible tune?
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:27 PM   #14
Tech5000
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Sorry for confusing you. LOL i do that a lot. But what i was just trying to get at is trying to say the car probably has never been tuned. Try a simple tune and let me know what happens!
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:01 AM   #15
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech5000
Sorry for confusing you. LOL i do that a lot. But what i was just trying to get at is trying to say the car probably has never been tuned. Try a simple tune and let me know what happens!
I did definitely read your posts and appreciate all the help thus far. I also believe there was either never a tune or a terribly bad tune. I have faith that the engine isnt torn to shreds but I could be wrong. Heck Ill be the first to admit my diagnosis it just based on common sense and very low knowledge. But I usually do very extended research.

I am DEFINITELY planning to get an uppipe and a tune Asap.
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:26 AM   #16
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Who is diagnosing that your o2 sensor is bad? Is anyone diagnosing it, are you just replacing it because you think that's the problem? Maybe you have corrosion in your connector, maybe you have bad wiring, maybe you have a bad ecu. Don't throw parts at the vehicle, diagnose it properly and fix it right the first time.

Do a boost leak test, fix and leaks you have, replace that BOV with the factory BPV and then see if your boost is still fluttering.

My car flutters in vacuum when just touching the gas but holds steady when at idle or when applying more throttle, I think it's something to do with how the gauge is plumbed in.... could be wrong here though.

Re do your compression test just to be sure.
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:23 AM   #17
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoFifty
Who is diagnosing that your o2 sensor is bad? Is anyone diagnosing it, are you just replacing it because you think that's the problem? Maybe you have corrosion in your connector, maybe you have bad wiring, maybe you have a bad ecu. Don't throw parts at the vehicle, diagnose it properly and fix it right the first time.

Do a boost leak test, fix and leaks you have, replace that BOV with the factory BPV and then see if your boost is still fluttering.

My car flutters in vacuum when just touching the gas but holds steady when at idle or when applying more throttle, I think it's something to do with how the gauge is plumbed in.... could be wrong here though.

Re do your compression test just to be sure.
I know that o2 was dead because as soon as ecu was reset cel came on for upstream o2. My mechanic and auto parts store got same code after each reset.

So I replaced it. I had no flutter before that because it wasnt reading properly and ecu was guessing. I replaced it with non oem o2 and computer started reading it. As soon as I replaced it flutter started at real low throttle like you have. I got suggestion earlier if you read entire thread from a third person with this issue and he suggested unplugging MAF. I did. And flutter is solved.

Replacing o2 because it could be bad... For $10 more i could have had oem denso and for $200 they should have told me..

I will replace o2 and if problem persists ill look at MAF.

All I know is until ecu kicks on car runs great.

Could easily be bad tune or bad ecu. How do I diagnose these?
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:30 AM   #18
SubWrx13
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P.s. I have EXACT symptoms you do.

My car did run like crap after o2 died though. And after replacement runs well minus the new flutter which really bugs me.

And as I said after I unplugged MAF no more flutter..
Im only guessing as you said at this point because I cant afford mechanic and know no tuners here locally.

But my guess is bad o2/maf

Or bad ecu/tune or both.

Im here for helo from knowledgable people and youre one of them. Thanks for helping and I already plan to get cobb bpv asap as well sorry ibdidnt include it
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:50 AM   #19
All4bSpinnin
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Ive heard of pre-uppipe leaks causing this but its rare. Any chance you could do a smoke text for a boost leak?

is the car running hot sometimes?
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:48 PM   #20
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bSpinnin
Ive heard of pre-uppipe leaks causing this but its rare. Any chance you could do a smoke text for a boost leak?

is the car running hot sometimes?
I can try. How so?
and never overheats
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:58 PM   #21
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Any local performance shop that knows their stuff can do this. Never overheating is good... You can pretty much rule out a head gasket. Check your turbo inlet for leaks
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:43 PM   #22
FastWrxWagon87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubWrx13
Ok so I basically bought a wrx in lets just say essentially unknown condition.

Heres the known:

02 132k engine
Bigger intercooler
aem intake
3"turboback exhaust
Aluminum radiator
Hks bov

Since purchase 1 month ago....:

CEL CAME ON:
Misfire 2 &4

New coils
New plugs oem
New fuel filter
Cleaned MAF (ran worse when disconnected)

Got in car wont shift...
Fixed with
Different tranny (05)
Installed boost gauge

CEL still on...
Boost flutters ONLY when holding throttle up at 15lbs boost for a while between 12-17lbs
Lag on power..
extremely jerky under load ...

Now reads
P0031
P0546

Installed new bosch $200 sensor

CEL finally off!

I think im in the clear car is running great!!!!

Nope....

Now boost gauge flutters all the time in vacuum under low load especially if holding at a constant speed.
Vacuum holds at 20 during idle. Boosts fine. Holds 15lbs fine no flutter. Only on low throttle is there flitter now but it goes crazy!! Wierd that it only started after new o2 sensor.

Could pipe have cracked during o2 replacement?? It was terribly stuck in there. Had to pay shop $30 to remove it.

Now a day later... got a new code on again!!! Now its the rear o2 sensor. Forgot code numbers but essentially
02 sensor code: bank 1 sensor 2
02 stuck rich
02 stuck lean

Is it possible my ecu is just crap? Why do I keep needing new sensor after the other? Im getting so frustrated that im seriously considering never getting another subaru again... Please help!!! Im not a mechanic and I clearly got screwed here..

Also when I start the car in the morning there is a terrible knock somewhere in the engine compartment until it warms up...
Well all subs tick untill they warm up my 08 wrx,my 02and my 07 all knock untill warmed up man
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:46 PM   #23
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastWrxWagon87

Well all subs tick untill they warm up my 08 wrx,my 02and my 07 all knock untill warmed up man
Lol good. Im hoping internals are fine then. Now I have bigger issues at hand.
And the flutter is one of them.

So far looks like one or combo of ecu/tune/MAF sensor
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:48 PM   #24
SubWrx13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bSpinnin
Any local performance shop that knows their stuff can do this. Never overheating is good... You can pretty much rule out a head gasket. Check your turbo inlet for leaks
If it was caused by leak wouldnt I have it flutter always vs just once warmed up? Ill try and check when possible or make my own I beleive thats an option ive seen
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:30 AM   #25
SubWrx13
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Picked up a grimmspeed uppipe and more grimmspeed gaskets. I liked the quality of the TBE ones I bought so it should work great. Wilk I need anything else for this install?
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