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09-17-2012, 02:45 PM | #601 |
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Member#: 164516
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Northern AZ STI hence username
Vehicle:2004 STI PSM |
Nice job Ken! Cant wait to see it all together again. Did ya do the HFS Setup?
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10-04-2012, 01:45 AM | #602 |
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Ken and i were working on his manifold tonight, coming out great since we only spent about a hour or so on it so far
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10-04-2012, 12:17 PM | #603 | |||
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quoted for truth. |
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10-04-2012, 12:24 PM | #604 | |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Quote:
I was having a hard time starting on this because the manifold was, by far, the cleanest STi manifold JDM or otherwise I've ever come across. I really didn't feel like cutting it up. But then Jay showed me a small scratch on it and said it was already damaged. Put this down as second stupidest thing I've done. Right up there with cutting a hole in my wagon's roof. But the results will be worth it hopefully. We still have a fair amount of grinding and smoothing to do on the cut off parts and a general polishing of the casting lines and all. The stock mani is amazingly rough in places. It should go fast though now that I understand what I'm doing. |
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10-04-2012, 12:33 PM | #605 |
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Member#: 285053
Join Date: Jun 2011
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SWIC
Location: in front of you
Vehicle:1998 2.5L fake WRB |
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10-04-2012, 12:42 PM | #606 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
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Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I am removing all the extra mounting points and chunks of aluminum that will not be needed on my setup. The stock V8 Spec-C manifold is covered in useless (for me) mounts. This should help to clean it up and make it look a bit nicer.
I wish I had taken some before shots, but I forgot. I found these pictures though which show exactly what mine looks like. If you compare this to the above pictures, you can see what I removed.
I will also need to use some aluminum solder to fill some of the small holes left behind, but that should be easy enough. Jay and I are hoping to make it to powder coat early next week. |
10-04-2012, 01:14 PM | #607 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:04 WRX Driftaru White & Blue |
oh. thanks for the clarification! When i saw the pics i thought you were polishing...and I was like..."that's good progress?" and "just take it to a sand blaster" haha. now i understand. Yeah that is a super good idea and will look way better. I regret not doing this on mine. what color powder coat or is it a secret???
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10-05-2012, 06:43 PM | #608 |
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Location: GoodSpeed Performance
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I like the super clean look on the manifolds. It's little details like this that make the build!
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10-05-2012, 08:39 PM | #609 |
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10-30-2012, 09:13 PM | #610 |
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Chapter/Region:
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Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
OK, I think it's time for some updates. Work has been killer and time is tight so I've been doing a lot of this in shorter 1 to 2 hour intervals late at night or in between plans. As a result, my work is scattered and poorly documented.
But everyone likes pictures, right? I've started reassembling the bay. Slowly. I'm almost done now (minus the motor). Just getting started: Unmasking: Paint flakes and dust EVERYWHERE. Fuse box back in place. All harnesses into and out of the box were stripped and re-wrapped. I also used this opportunity to remove any extra wires from the harnesses. This included ones for pumps,factory alarm, day time running lights and the like. The gray plug on the right is for daytime running lights (the module) and the one on the right is for the OEM alarm horn that is normally mounted on the passenger-side strut tower (my can never had one). Both cut. Wires isolated: Installing loom to cover the harness: After that, the entire harness was wrapped with high temperature electrical tape. Heat shielding will be added. This general process was repeated for all the front clip harnesses. Last edited by kpluiten; 10-30-2012 at 09:23 PM. |
10-30-2012, 09:53 PM | #611 |
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I purchased a new Deka EXT20L light-weight battery after having bad experiences with two Odyssey PC680's. The Deka is about $74 compared to the Odyssey PC680 at $125. It is as small and about as light. Deka actually makes the Braille batteries which sell for $200+. The Braille batteries are literally Deka's with some fancy coverings and carbon fiber stickers. Oh, and Braille lies about the battery's output by claiming peak values for CCA's rather than sustained.
The Deka model I have is commonly rebranded as "Big Crank"... Anyway, I decided to install it on it's side. Being an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery, it will not leak in this orientation. I used a Kartboy Tie-down because it looked nice and I like Kartboy and lost my OEM part, but the stock tie-down should would fine. I used the brass battery lugs off the old Odyssey battery. In this position, the ground cable to the engine works perfectly, but the 4-gauge wire to the starter is too short, as is the 8-gauge wire to the fuse box. Rather than messing with extending the factory stuff, I bought the supplies to make my own cables. Most of the parts came from McMaster Carr, an industrial supply house online. This is the longest write-up you'll ever read on making a simple battery cable, but perhaps someone, somewhere will find it handy. Making a high-amperage cable is not the place to cut corners on your car. After seeing some of the stereo/electronics installs people do on their cars... I bought 3 feet of 2-gauge battery cable. This stuff is heavy duty. Battery cable often has a much thicker insulation than cheap stereo stuff you buy at Wal-mart or the dollar store. I bought some 2-gauge (#2 AWG or American Wire Gauge) loop terminals from Pico. These were the most robust ones I could find. They are coated to help with conduction and prevent corrosion. Check out how much thicker this Pico unit is than a typical cheapie loop connector. Those thin ones do not hold up well to repeated use/vibration. This particular one came with a stereo install kit I got a Fry's Electronics a long time ago. Wire stripped and shrink wrap installed: Ready to crimp: |
10-30-2012, 09:53 PM | #612 |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Squeeze in a vice with aluminum jaws:
"Crimp" completed. The factory has better tools for this crimp, but for only 2 crimps, it wasn't worth the money. I hung the loop on a nail and could not pull it off so it should be nice and tight. Shrink wrap in place. This is the "adhesive style" shrink tube with glue inside. It become hot and the glue melts creating a nice seal to prevent corrosion. It's marginally more expensive and worth it for outdoors connections. It's also very thick. Which you want to prevent wear and grounding. Heat the wrap with a heat gun evenly. This is the result. Notice the glue that is pushed out on the edges: |
10-30-2012, 10:22 PM | #613 |
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Member#: 176944
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Location: Mesa, Az
Vehicle:06 STI Aspen White |
Nice write-up on those terminals man! That engine bay looks sexy btw
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10-30-2012, 10:48 PM | #614 |
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Member#: 251804
Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:05 WRB STi |
Finish this already, didn't you learn the first time to not take everything apart lol
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10-30-2012, 10:49 PM | #615 |
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Join Date: May 2009
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Aurora, CO
Vehicle:2005 Saabaru Who knows |
NOW GET THAT ENGINE DONE! <3 you!
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10-30-2012, 10:56 PM | #616 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region:
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Location: Global
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10-30-2012, 11:07 PM | #617 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:05 WRB STi |
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10-30-2012, 11:21 PM | #618 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I got some STi headlights a few years ago which come with the headlight levelers. While the light portion is plug and play, the levelers were not because it wasn't an option on the WRX. On the 2006 Headlights I have, the leveler system uses a three pole connector. Earlier years like 02-05 use 6 pole terminals.
Doing some research on the lights, I found that most guys simply cut the connector off the headlight housing and hard-wire the levelers into their car. I didn't like the thought of this since I prefer factory connectors and I want to be able to remove my headlights with ease. I got my hands on a 2006 STi harness but found that the connectors for the levelers had been cut. So I got on the internet and began searching Japanese connector suppliers until I found the source of the connector I needed. I was able to order samples. Enough to make 5 pairs. Now it was possible to wire these in like factory. It should also be noted that the 06-07 STi uses a different style switch than the 02-05's. You can interchange them, but it's not straight forward, so I stayed with the 2006 style switch. I was able to pull the switch harness connector off the STi harness so I didn't have to hard-wire the switch either. The connector consists of 4 main parts: the housing, the terminals, the seals, and the lock (green square piece of plastic): First you strip the wire back and install the silicon/rubber seal. The terminal is then crimped into place. It has two sets of crimp legs, one set for the contact with the wire and one set (the taller ones) to hold the seal/insulation in place. There are special tools to crimp these properly, but I don't have them. Instead, I simply used pliers to carefully fold the crimp legs down. You have to be careful not to distort the terminal too much or it won't fit in the connector housing. To make sure they were strong, I soldered the wore to the terminal ever so slightly. This isn't needed if you have proper crimp tools. After you have your wires and terminal crimped, you simply insert them into the connector housing until they click. Then you insert the teal/green lock into the front of the connector. This locks the terminals into place so you can't yank them out when working with the connector. The wire I used was a bit thick, but it works. These connectors were designed for #18 AWG, but I used #16 AWG because it's what I had on hand. In that last picture, you can see the wires leading into the factory harness. OEM-esque! |
10-30-2012, 11:33 PM | #619 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I ran the wires for the leveler system (two total, Power and Signal) into the cabin by running them with the factory harness under the driver's side fender. At this point, it was just a bit too hard to split the loom and tuck these two wires, so they got their own smaller loom next to it.
There is a rubber boot near the left side of the pedal area on the driver's side of the car where the factory harness comes in. On it, there is a small nipple that has no wires going through it. From the inside of the car, I poked a coat hanger through this nipple and used it to pull the wires into the pedal area inside the cabin. Inside the car looking at the boot: Outside hooking the wires: Pulling the wires through: After the wires were in, I finished the wiring to the factory connector for the switch. Basically, there are 5 wires to deal with: Ground, Illumination reference, Signal, Power, and Illumination power. I was able to tap the Fog Light switch for the necessary wirse which also means it's now fused on the Fog circuit for protection. It's the connector on the right. |
10-30-2012, 11:37 PM | #620 |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
This is the finished product with the headlight assemblies in the car. Hard to see, but it's there. You can see the red, green and black wires slightly.
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10-31-2012, 02:33 AM | #621 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
So I have a set of Redline hood actuators that I'm installing. As a result I don't need the factory hood prop anymore. Which means I don't need the hood prop holder on the radiator mounts anymore either.
First I cut the tabs off the brackets with a hack saw. Then I ground them smooth and rounded. They will be powder coated and used to hold my Koyo unit in place. Here's some other random pictures of wires I removed from the factory harness. These wires were for the emissions pump. I followed the wires back for a long way into the harness. I completely removed the ground and clipped and isolated the supply. I repeated this process a few times on various extra unnecessary connectors. Gone. |
10-31-2012, 02:43 AM | #622 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I also dressed up exposded wires in the engine bay with expanding nylon mesh sleeve material. Here is an ABS sensor harness lead. First I carefully removed the terminals from the connector body. Then I slid the sleeve material and shrink wrap tubes on the harness and reinstalled the connector. The finished product looks pretty neat.
Connector removed: |
10-31-2012, 02:44 AM | #623 |
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Member#: 199051
Join Date: Jan 2009
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SWIC
Location: mesa, az
Vehicle:04 sti psm |
you didn't happen to keep the yellow tab on the radiator bracket did you?
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10-31-2012, 11:21 AM | #624 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Location: AZ
Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
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10-31-2012, 12:41 PM | #625 |
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Location: IT'SOKIFYOUDON'TGETIT!
Vehicle:2006 Red GDA-F 2005 Aspen White GDA-E |
Nice work on the leveler Ken. Just picked up the switch with pigtail for mine on the RS, might tackle that project soon.
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