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Old 10-05-2012, 07:49 PM   #4401
JRsleeper
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Amps start the car not volts. Can have 12v volts but not enough amps. One or more cells could be weak.

I have had new battery's with a defective cell before.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:03 PM   #4402
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Thank you, I will try and find out tomorrow. Does anyone know how many amps the stock battery has or should have?
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:33 PM   #4403
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there should be a sticker with that info somewhere on the battery. IIRC the CCA is around 600+
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:50 PM   #4404
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Depends on the battery.

Amps and cold cranking amps (CCA) should be listed clearly on the label of the battery.

Weak or dead cell(s) are slightly conductive and will have a high resistance. Small currents will still flow through these cells. In this state each cell contributes little or nothing to the amp capacity of the battery.

6 cells @ 2.1 volts = 12.6 volts.

While a volt meter can read 12-13 volts on a battery with no load and a dead cell. As soon as a substantial load is applied the voltage will drop very low or to zero.

This is a surface charge

All 6 cells are needed to provide enough amps and shall have a low resistance.

Voltage is the measure of electrical pressure.

While Amps is a measure of the volume of electrical current.
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:46 PM   #4405
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I had to unplug this particular IAT sensor directly under the throttle body on my v8 swap. Apparently the USDM harness doesn't support it, and it could cause AVCS NOT to work. Had to take off the TMIC to get to it, since I didn't know about it beforehand. Not sure if it's the same for v7 or v9... but certainly applies to the v8. Just FYI:

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Old 10-06-2012, 08:07 PM   #4406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquey View Post
I had to unplug this particular IAT sensor directly under the throttle body on my v8 swap. Apparently the USDM harness doesn't support it, and it could cause AVCS NOT to work. Had to take off the TMIC to get to it, since I didn't know about it beforehand. Not sure if it's the same for v7 or v9... but certainly applies to the v8. Just FYI:
Thanks for the heads up! Hopefully others know, I've seen the same info floating around in this thread enough that I knew to unplug mine today before I put everything back together.

So I'm in the final steps of my swap, really just filling fluids and stuff left. All is well, and I'll probably start-er-up tonight.

Question though, does anyone have a pic of the passenger side mounting brackets for the Ver8 TMIC? I'm thinking mine weren't included. I have 2 brackets left over and they certainly don't seem to fit. The one that was on there, I couldn't even get the TMIC in place with it on(seemed like a standard WRX fitment bracket ). Anyway, if anyone has any pics of them on or off the car I'd appreciate it.

Also, what are you guys dong as far as heat shields for the turbo? Even running one? My Ver8 swap didn't include a heat shield and trying to decide if I should wrap the DP and throw on an aftermarket turbo blanket or just go as is
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:26 AM   #4407
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So I got everything in tonight, went to fire up and the battery's dead . Guess I've gotta wait until tomorrow to hear it run.

Last edited by navydub; 10-07-2012 at 12:39 AM. Reason: I'm dumb
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:18 AM   #4408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydub View Post
Thanks for the heads up! Hopefully others know, I've seen the same info floating around in this thread enough that I knew to unplug mine today before I put everything back together.

So I'm in the final steps of my swap, really just filling fluids and stuff left. All is well, and I'll probably start-er-up tonight.

Question though, does anyone have a pic of the passenger side mounting brackets for the Ver8 TMIC? I'm thinking mine weren't included. I have 2 brackets left over and they certainly don't seem to fit. The one that was on there, I couldn't even get the TMIC in place with it on(seemed like a standard WRX fitment bracket ). Anyway, if anyone has any pics of them on or off the car I'd appreciate it.

Also, what are you guys dong as far as heat shields for the turbo? Even running one? My Ver8 swap didn't include a heat shield and trying to decide if I should wrap the DP and throw on an aftermarket turbo blanket or just go as is
The passenger side TMIC mounting bracket is sort of "lightning bolt" shaped... with two bolt holes on the bottom that hold it to the block and two on top... either one is used, depending if it's WRX or STi intercooler. AFAIK there is no physical difference between the one on USDM WRX and one that comes with the JDM motor (if you did get one). Mine was bent, as we hoisted the engine from it. So had to use one from the WRX... fit just fine.

For your turbo... definitely get a heatshield of some sort and don't run without one. It gets really hot and you'll have all sorts of heatsoak. I bought a PTP turbo blanket that is made specifically for Subarus.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:18 PM   #4409
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My car is almost ready for dyno day, I'm going to install new spark plugs and change the oil to rotella before the day, oct 15. Installed a full gates racing timing belt kit testerday. Decided to keep the stock down pipe for now, just to keep a cat and noise level down. I installed a borla hush, perrin turbo inlet and upgraded the fuel pump flow with a walbro 255. Everything is working well except for when I'm rolling down to stop, idle dips to very low rps as if to stall out but when I come to fully stoped it actually bounces to normal idle. When I start the car idle is perfectly normal, it only dips low when I'm slowing down to bring the car to a stop. After stoped in a second or two it just bounces to normal idle. Once its idling normally, if I step on the gas pedal very softly and rpms beging to climb, it gets ruff at arround 1000 rpm and then it recovers to normal quickly. I cleaned the idle control, installed it and the check engine light came on, engine stalled and wouldnt start again. After replacing the idle control from my old engine the engine started and check engine light is gone. The unusual idle situation didn't change by replacing the idle control. The interesting thing is that the problem only occurs with the jdm ecu, the car idles to stop perfectly with the usdm ecu. Swap the jdm ecu back on and problem returns, swap usdm ecu back and problem is gone, jdm ecu goes back on, slowing down idle problem comes back. I do have the plug under the throttle body disconnected. No matter what I have done or changed the problem is there, but not with the usdm ecu. I will be using the jdm ecu, help me figure out what's wrong, thanks.
Doug

Last edited by D-Rodman; 10-07-2012 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:21 PM   #4410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
My car is almost ready for dyno day, I'm going to install new spark plugs and change the oil to rotella before the day, oct 15. Installed a full gates racing timing belt kit testerday. Decided to keep the stock down pipe for now, just to keep a cat and noise level down. I installed a borla hush, perrin turbo inlet pipe and upgraded to fuel pump flow with a walbro 255. Everything is working well except for when I'm rolling down to stop, idle dips to very low rps as if to stall out but when I come to fully stoped it actually bounces to normal idle. When I start the car idle is perfectly normal, it only dips low when I'm slowing down to bring the car to a stop. after stoped in a second or two it just bounces to normal idle. Once its idling normally, if I step on the gas pedal very softly and rpms beging to climb, it gets ruff at arround 1000 rpm and then it recovers to normal quickly. I cleaned the idle control, installed it and the check engine light came on, engine staaled and wouldnt start again. After replacing the idle control from my old engine the engine started and check engine light is gone. The unusual idle situation didn't change by replacing the idle control. The interesting thing is that the problem only occurs with the jdm ecu, the car idles to stop perfectly with the usdm ecu. Swap the jdm ecu back on and problem returns, swap usdm ecu back and problem is gone, jdm ecu goes back on, slowing down idle problem comes back. I do have the plug under the throttle body disconnected. No matter what I have done or changed the problem is there, but not with the usdm ecu. I will be using the jdm ecu, help me figure out what's wrong, thanks.
Doug
Did you have to swap any pins for the jdm ecu other than the AVCS pins? I havent been following your swap, but it looks like you have a bugeye like me. Are you swapping in a v8 as well?
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:31 PM   #4411
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Just the pins following the instructions for the avcs harness install. My swap is a 2003 ver 8 on a 2002 wrx wagon.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:33 PM   #4412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Just the pins following the instructions for the avcs harness install.
And just to clarify this is a V8 motor and ecu into an 02 usdm wrx?

That really blows for me lol. Sounds like a bad ECU then.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:37 PM   #4413
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Correct, 2002 usdm wrx swapped to a ver 8 with jdm ecu, why does that suck for you, I have a bad ecu?
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:52 PM   #4414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Correct, 2002 usdm wrx swapped to a ver 8 with jdm ecu, why does that suck for you, I have a bad ecu?
No I'm saying that I probably have a bad ECU if you didnt have to do anything other than hook up the AVCS (which is what i've done)

Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:59 PM   #4415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Correct, 2002 usdm wrx swapped to a ver 8 with jdm ecu, why does that suck for you, I have a bad ecu?
Hey D-Rodman, could you do one thing for me? I was told that if the CEL does NOT illuminate when the key is turned to ON but the motor is off, that the ECU is probably dead. This is the case for me. Key ON motor OFF, no CEL. Also the car just cranks and cranks with the jdm ecu, doesnt even attempt to start.

Could you please confirm for me that if you turn your key to ON and do not start the engine, that the CEL comes on along with the rest of the lights on the dash?

I can swap back to my USDM ECU and this is the case. The CEL is ON with the key ON and the motor OFF. Then when I start the car, the CEL goes away along with the oil light and all the other cluster lights that go away when you start the car.

D-Rodman if you could confirm that for me, it would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:09 AM   #4416
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Originally Posted by simon021 View Post
Hey D-Rodman, could you do one thing for me? I was told that if the CEL does NOT illuminate when the key is turned to ON but the motor is off, that the ECU is probably dead. This is the case for me. Key ON motor OFF, no CEL. Also the car just cranks and cranks with the jdm ecu, doesnt even attempt to start.

Could you please confirm for me that if you turn your key to ON and do not start the engine, that the CEL comes on along with the rest of the lights on the dash?

I can swap back to my USDM ECU and this is the case. The CEL is ON with the key ON and the motor OFF. Then when I start the car, the CEL goes away along with the oil light and all the other cluster lights that go away when you start the car.

D-Rodman if you could confirm that for me, it would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry dude, computer was on but I was building a desk for the home office.
Just checked what you asked to confirm, with the ignition in the on position and the engine is off, check engine light, oil, etc, all illuminate.
Sorry to confirm the worst for ya, happy to help.

Last edited by D-Rodman; 10-08-2012 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:19 AM   #4417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Sorry dude, computer was on but I was building a desk for the home office.
Just checked what you asked to confirm, with the ignition in the on position and the engine is off, check engine light, oil, etc, all illuminate.
Sorry to confirm the worst for ya, happy to help.
Thanks for the confirmation
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:04 AM   #4418
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Same here.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:12 AM   #4419
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There's only one thing I wanted to get out of the way:
I wanted to make sure that coincidentally, you don't also have a V9 immobilized ECU, with your V8 engine.
I tested a V9 immobilized, but it did not cross my mind to look and see what the check engine light was doing, at the time.

If it does happen to be a V9 immobilized, you may have bumped into a new method of telling that you have such (although the code on the box would tell you anyway, unless somebody changed the label).

So, if you can, please post your ECU code number, so we confirm you have a V8 JDM. V8 EDM and such, were immobilized.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:12 AM   #4420
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Oh, It's a JDM STI?
Pretty close.

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D-Rodman, is the intake a stock box or aftermarket? I had this exact same problem when I first started driving my swap. I have a v9 motor/trans with a v8 ecu. I noticed you said you aren't tuned, when I was getting the Maf scaling done the problem was going away. Eventually it went away all together. I have a perrin intake on mine.

I did the same as you, cleaned the iacv to no avail. I put my old one on and the high idle I was getting went away but the dipping idle was still there. Talk your tuner and have him scale the Maf before continuing the tune. Be careful driving around without a tune.

Hope that helps.

Last edited by ImNOrobo; 10-08-2012 at 12:29 PM. Reason: v8 ecu not v9
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:36 AM   #4421
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Thanks for reading my post and response. I'll make sure the tuner knows what is going on. I have a stock air box that I plan to keep using. I did order a tomei down pipe but I'm still not sure if I'm going to use it, a little concern about the exhaust volume and dreaded drone. I just know the difference it makes to have an aftermarket down pipe when turning up the boost.
Not driving the car other than short test drives after installing stuff to make sure there are no problems. Thanks again.
Doug
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:00 AM   #4422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
There's only one thing I wanted to get out of the way:
I wanted to make sure that coincidentally, you don't also have a V9 immobilized ECU, with your V8 engine.
I tested a V9 immobilized, but it did not cross my mind to look and see what the check engine light was doing, at the time.

If it does happen to be a V9 immobilized, you may have bumped into a new method of telling that you have such (although the code on the box would tell you anyway, unless somebody changed the label).

So, if you can, please post your ECU code number, so we confirm you have a V8 JDM. V8 EDM and such, were immobilized.


This should be a v8 from what I can tell. I had a list of all the ECU numbers and part numbers but now I can't seem to find it.

For those of you that cant see the pictures.

B1 - 22611AJ810
112200-8801 12V

FYI thats a picture before I wired in the AVCS in case anyone was wondering where those wires were. I used the IA Performance kit and it was very quick and easy.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #4423
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AJ810 is V9, early as in Revision E, but it's not spec C.

This may be the very same ECU code immobilized, that I tested, let me look if I have records...

Edit: mine was a later model, but let me read all your posts and see what you're describing, if it really can be immobilized.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:18 AM   #4424
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Ok, so:
USDM ECU, JDM engine starts, right?
JDM ECU, JDM engine does crank, but does not start, right?

Do you hear the fuel pump priming with the JDM?
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:44 AM   #4425
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Exactly correct.

Usdm ecu - engine starts
Jdm ecu - cranks but does not start. Fuel pump does NOT prime.
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