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Old 10-06-2012, 04:06 PM   #26
All4bSpinnin
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i would heat wrap it. Start at the bottom of the top and wrap up. For the uppipe, I would do 2 layers. Seal with silicone spray... or use titanium wrap which doesnt need to be sealed. Wrap the uppipe fairly tight, but not too tight. You'll need enough flexibility for the metal to expand/contract.
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bSpinnin
i would heat wrap it. Start at the bottom of the top and wrap up. For the uppipe, I would do 2 layers. Seal with silicone spray... or use titanium wrap which doesnt need to be sealed. Wrap the uppipe fairly tight, but not too tight. You'll need enough flexibility for the metal to expand/contract.
Thanks for the suggestion!

See i was thinking about it for some time and wasnt positive on what to do. Its quite pricey and I was under the impression that its the headers you really should heat wrap but the uppipe is kinda more optional.
Also with wrapping, I read its possible that the increased heat retention, in some cases, can accelerate metal fatigue, especially at weld joints.

If it makes a big difference or if it prevents melting of some surrounding components let me know and ill consider it more heavily because I was under the impression its designed well as is or would come wrapped on all uppipes. If I need it. I need it. But if not I may do it when i finally have a fixed car I can play with that doesnt NEED a lot of tlc
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:03 PM   #28
All4bSpinnin
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wrapping the uppipe is just as important as wrapping the header. The stock uppipe comes with a heatsheild on it for a reason. When you switch to an aftermarket uppipe they do not come with any kind of heat sheilding. The heat from the turbo system can cause the engine to be more prone to detonation, can dry out gaskets/seals in the cylinder heat, possibly damage the coil packs etc.

If you're going to do it, you should spend the money and do it right. Not to mention, your turbo will spool up faster and you'll make some additional HP.
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:06 PM   #29
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since you have an 02 wrx, dont forget you have an EGT sensor built into the uppipe. If your grimmspeed uppipe does not have the bung for this EGT, you'll either need to have a bung put in or run a resistor for it. I would run the resistor.
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Old 10-06-2012, 10:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubWrx13 View Post
I know that o2 was dead because as soon as ecu was reset cel came on for upstream o2. My mechanic and auto parts store got same code after each reset.

So I replaced it. I had no flutter before that because it wasnt reading properly and ecu was guessing. I replaced it with non oem o2 and computer started reading it. As soon as I replaced it flutter started at real low throttle like you have. I got suggestion earlier if you read entire thread from a third person with this issue and he suggested unplugging MAF. I did. And flutter is solved.

Replacing o2 because it could be bad... For $10 more i could have had oem denso and for $200 they should have told me..

I will replace o2 and if problem persists ill look at MAF.

All I know is until ecu kicks on car runs great.

Could easily be bad tune or bad ecu. How do I diagnose these?
I don't want to come across as a douche but just to let you know, if you had a short or open in your wiring to the O2 sensor or a bad ECU the code would reset right away also and it would reset the same code.

And im confused, what do you mean when you say the car runs fine until the ECU kicks in?
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:21 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoFifty

I don't want to come across as a douche but just to let you know, if you had a short or open in your wiring to the O2 sensor or a bad ECU the code would reset right away also and it would reset the same code.

And im confused, what do you mean when you say the car runs fine until the ECU kicks in?
Youre not coming accross like that at all. And I checked all wiring and connection. It was original o2 at 132k. It was checked 3x and cleared 3x.

And I mean car runs great much better until it heats up. No flutter, spool seems better. And then all the sudden heat rises and flutter suddenly kicks in.
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:32 PM   #32
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is the wastegate tight?
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:46 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bSpinnin
is the wastegate tight?
Would wastegate affect car at low idle? Flutter is at very low throttle most of the time.

And isbthere a way to test the ecu?
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Old 10-07-2012, 05:59 PM   #34
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Have you tried doing a boost leak test at all? I'd strongly recommend getting yourself a factory BPV or try finding someone near you with a factory one you can try. Switch it out and see if it makes a difference for you at all.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoFifty
Have you tried doing a boost leak test at all? I'd strongly recommend getting yourself a factory BPV or try finding someone near you with a factory one you can try. Switch it out and see if it makes a difference for you at all.
Not yet. And will do
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #36
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^this is a good idea. I personally think you have a book leak. Cars with leaks often fluctuate boost and sometimes flutter.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:50 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bSpinnin
^this is a good idea. I personally think you have a book leak. Cars with leaks often fluctuate boost and sometimes flutter.
Ok ill definitely do that. However my only question still remains, why does it only start once the engine warms up? Any other time its not there. Making me thinkbits electical. Ecu, maf, etc. or BOTH
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:39 PM   #38
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One thing at a time... It's trial nd error
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:57 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bSpinnin
One thing at a time... It's trial nd error
Got my new denso o2 today. Car drives even better although vac flutter is still there. The new o2 definitely made a difference in the cars driving as well as noticably smoother shifting.

Again.. When I disconnect the MAF the flutter is completely gone. And the car seems to drive better. Whether this is because car is running richer or maf is bad is beyond me... All I know is a new MAF is $130 or for denso its $208
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:11 PM   #40
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Ok I do have aftermarket uppipe. Didnt know that.. So now to the boost leak testing!
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:12 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubWrx13
Ok I do have aftermarket uppipe. Didnt know that.. So now to the boost leak testing!
Ok... Updates!!

Boost flutter problem.... (at low throttle)

I have aftermarket uppipe
I have new o2 sensor
I have new coils
New spark plugs
New MAF sensor

Overall car feels like night and day. But today got new MAF and it didnt fix. When its disconnected flutter disappears.

Have not done boost leak test. (wont flitter when maf disconnected.
Compression test was good.


Last guess of mine is:

Bad Tune.

And then I give up.

Any thoughts?
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:35 PM   #42
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Any serious techs wanna get the victory on this problem? Been persistant for 2 months now and tried many things with no solution.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:27 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubWrx13 View Post
Any serious techs wanna get the victory on this problem? Been persistant for 2 months now and tried many things with no solution.
Ever figure out the problem??
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:00 PM   #44
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Anything but the Denso OEM O2 sensor can and usually will still throw a code. Don't know how or why this is the case but I tried the universal and bosch still threw a code. Finally listened to Bren at Brentuning.com who told me to use the Denso, code gone instantly.
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