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Old 10-06-2012, 04:14 PM   #26
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

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Replace the damn rear bushing with stock geezus and report back
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:43 PM   #27
trev762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Replace the damn rear bushing with stock geezus and report back
As already bin stated has nothing to do with the damb bushing/
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:59 PM   #28
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

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Well....this morning I tested the rear mounts: KB vs stock and confirmed the KB mount is not the issue that prevents me from engaging 2nd gear @high rpm.

So after ruling the KB mount I tackled the clutch pedal travel and that seems to have fixed the issue, will see it this is just a fluke or the culprit has always been the clutch travel.

I was able to complete 5 test runs all within 30 minutes successfully engaging 2nd at 5K+ rpm.

Measured 0-60 times on AP; love this 48F weather.

5.130s
5.172s
5.173s
5.219s
5.188s

Stage 2 OTS Map.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 10-08-2012 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #29
Rex_Revo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Well....this morning I tested the rear mounts: KB vs stock and confirmed the KB mount is not the issue that prevents me from engaging 2nd gear @high rpm.

So after ruling the KB mount I tackled the clutch pedal travel and that seems to have fixed the issue, will see it this is just a fluke or the culprit has always been the clutch travel.

I was able to complete 5 test runs all within 30 minutes successfully engaging 2nd at 5K+ rpm.

Measured 0-60 times on AP; love this 48F weather.

5.130s
5.172s
5.173s
5.219s
5.188s

Stage 2 OTS Map.
How did you change your clutch pedal travel?
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:44 AM   #30
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

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1) Unbolt accl pedal, you need room to turn the clutch master cylinder rod.
2) Use 12mm wrench to loosen rod lock nut in picture identified by arrow.
3) Depress/Release clutch pedal with one hand while turning the master cylinder rod with the other hand, you have to relieve tension to turn the rod.
4) Tighten the lock nut
5) Install accl pedal

Key here is depressing the clutch back and forth to get the rod to turn, otherwise your fingers will just slide on the rod. I left only three threads left on the rod, the clutch pedal now sits about 8mm higher than the brake pedal, I like it much better as it grabs right away, I have eliminated the free play too and most importantly it seems to have fixed my issue with 2nd gear, now I can achieve fast throw high rpm up shifts into 2nd.



Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 10-08-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:45 AM   #31
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

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double post.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 10-08-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:06 PM   #32
Rex_Revo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
1) Unbolt accl pedal, you need room to turn the clutch master cylinder rod.
2) Use 12mm wrench to loosen rod lock nut in picture identified by arrow.
3) Depress/Release clutch pedal with one hand while turning the master cylinder rod with the other hand, you have to relieve tension to turn the rod.
4) Tighten the lock nut
5) Install accl pedal

Key here is depressing the clutch back and forth to get the rod to turn, otherwise your fingers will just slide on the rod. I left only three threads left on the rod, the clutch pedal now sits about 8mm higher than the brake pedal, I like it much better as it grabs right away, I have eliminated the free play too and most importantly it seems to have fixed my issue with 2nd gear, now I can achieve fast throw high rpm up shifts into 2nd.


So what's your theory? That the clutch wasn't releasing? Is it possible to damage the clutch master cylinder by adjusting too much?
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:11 PM   #33
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

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I need more driving time to confirm the issue is fixed, this is not my DD. I am going to the 1/8 mile strip tomorrow, I will report back.

You raise a valid point on damaging the master cylinder due to excessive pedal travel, but I don't know the answer to that.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:44 PM   #34
Rex_Revo
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I don't know if I am going to mess with this one. There is pretty much zero play in the pedal. The rod that connects to the clutch master cylinder doesn't have tension on it with the clutch completely out...it moves around freely, but locks up when you start to press the clutch pedal in. But it doesn't really have any play forward or backward. There are about 4 threads left on the end of the rod on mine.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:29 PM   #35
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Location: Nashboringville
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TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

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I had 8 threads before the adjustment, 4 sounds about right don't mess with it then.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:06 PM   #36
Rex_Revo
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I just ordered some DOT 5.1 brake fluid from Amazon (technology is great! better than the silicone DOT 5!). I'm going to try that and see if I am cooking my clutch fluid after my commute. You wouldn't think so, but it is worth a try.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:07 AM   #37
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After thinking about this more, I may also try and shield the lines/slave cylinder from heat. I had to put a power steering cooler on my car because I was boiling the fluid, and Dexron III has a boiling point of ~599 degrees F. The slave cylinder is right on the other side of the turbo, and DOT 4 (which is what I used when I put in my stainless clutch line) is only rated to 446 degrees (dry) F. DOT 5.1 will handle another ~60 degrees dry and wet.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:37 PM   #38
Rex_Revo
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I flushed all the DOT 4 out and refilled with DOT 5.1 (not to be confused with DOT 5). I'm real happy with it. No missed shifts yet, including after cooking in traffic for a while. I urged myself to flush the fluid after I recreated the problem in a straight line after taking off in almost stopped traffic (resulting in a second gear grind that had nothing to do with the clutch pedal not being pushed in). I'd love for someone else to chime in and try this out.
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