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Old 10-07-2012, 02:40 PM   #1
25rsti
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Location: Haverhill, MA
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Default Anyone good with Electrical Systems/Diagnosing?

I'm trying to complete my swap and need some help.

Car is a 2003 WRX with a JDM V9 Motor swap. I've got the IAP wiring harness installed (integrates AVCS). New battery, Lights turn on, fuel pump primes turn key to crank and nothing. Clock and radio dim also.

I'm located in Haverhill, MA.

Any help is much appreciated. Could even buy a case of beer or whatever beverage you like. My fiance is a great cook too!

TIA.
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Last edited by 25rsti; 10-07-2012 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:54 PM   #2
eastcoastbumps
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Get a test light and check to see if you're getting 12v to the starter wire when you crank. If you are, then its a bad starter.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:02 PM   #3
25rsti
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Forgot to mention, installed a brand new starter today.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:39 PM   #4
eastcoastbumps
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Still, test the starter and the wire to the starter. Sounds like its an issue with the starter since the clock and lights dim.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:40 PM   #5
25rsti
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I did test the starter; not while cranking though. If I get 12v while trying to start it's bad?
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:51 PM   #6
eastcoastbumps
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
I did test the starter; not while cranking though. If I get 12v while trying to start it's bad?
Yes, the starter is bad, or the starter is working, but the gear is not lining up with your flywheel (slim chance, but possible if you've got some cobbled together parts from who knows where).

There are two terminals on your starter. One is a big heavy cable from the battery that gets constant 12V (because its connected directly to the battery, duh). And the other is the starting terminal, that gets 12v when you turn the key to the crank position.



You can see the two terminals in this picture above. [A] is the stud terminal (always 12v), and [b] is a smaller spade terminal (12v when switched from the ignition). If you have 12v at [b] when you turn the key to 'start' then the wiring and switch to the starter is good.

You can also test a starter when its out of the car. Hook up a pair of jumper cables or a jump box to the starter. Ground to the case of the starter where it would bolt to the transmission, and connect the positive lead to the stud [A]. Then take a screwdriver and connect the stud [A] to the spade [b]. Be careful though, the starter will jump (if its working). I usually put the starter on the ground and stand on it with one foot.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:22 PM   #7
25rsti
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The starter is not even turning. I tested my first two starters out the car and they spun but without moving foward and spinning (to contact the flywheel). Which is why I bought a new one.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:54 PM   #8
eastcoastbumps
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BMW M3
Honda S2000x2

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On most starters, the gear can only start to spin after its plunged forward. The electrical contact within the starter that turns the starter motor is at the end of the plunger stroke. It may be different on gear reduction starters.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:03 AM   #9
25rsti
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I had a friend bypass my original 2 starters while I was trying to crank the key and the starter just spun. We tried both starters out the car and they just spun "without" pushing foward and spinning. Very weird.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:38 PM   #10
25rsti
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Bypassed the 3RD starter. Sounds like it spins and only spins. Doesn't plunge foward.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #11
25rsti
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Member#: 166324
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Location: Haverhill, MA
Vehicle:
3 turbos &n NA
@DBlockSTi

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Anyone willing to come by and help or any more ideas?
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:58 PM   #12
25rsti
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Location: Haverhill, MA
Vehicle:
3 turbos &n NA
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