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Old 08-07-2012, 02:51 AM   #26
furiouswrx
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Make sure you are wearing gloves. Break the oil drain plug loose with the breaker bar. Place the tool aside. While applying light pressure to the drain plug, spin it out. Once you feel that the drain plug is no longer engaged, pull away with one quick motion. Oil will drain quickly and the path of the oil will move/change - so follow it with the drain pan or you will get your floor soaking in oil.


Once the oil flow slows to a drip, wipe the drain plug installation area well with a paper towel. Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug. Place a new one on, flat side down/facing the drain plug head.


Spin the drain plug back into its hole until it's seated. Tighten to 33 ft-lb with beam torque wrench.


Attach 3" extension and oil filter removal tool to ratchet. Move oil drain pan underneath the filter.


Slide tool over old filter and break it loose.


Unscrew filter by hand until it starts to drain steadily. Let it drain into the pan.


Once it starts to drip occasionally, unscrew it completely. Be careful not to drop the oil filter into the drain pan. Make sure the gasket came off with the filter.


Use paper towel to wipe surrounding area clean after it stops dripping. Wipe threads wipe up any old oil you see. Fill the new oil filter with oil. You'll have to fill, then tap it lightly on the ground until the air comes out, and repeat 3-5 times to get the oil completely into the filter.


Install new filter by hand. Blue OEM Subaru filter turns additional 7/8 turn after O-ring gasket is seated. Just turn it until it is tight and can't be turned by hand any more. Don't overtighten or try to be a hero.


Better shot of oil drain plug and oil filter:


Now pour a little bit of new oil in, say 0.25 quart. Go back underneath car and check for any leaks. If no leaks over 1 min, finish pouring a total of 4.5 quarts in, so 0.5 qt remains in the jug (all 5 quarts is OK too). Reinstall cap. Put all newspaper and trash in trash bag. Reinstall plastic underbody cover. Jack car back up, remove jack stands and wood, and lower car back down. Remove wheel chocks. Put everything away.

Check oil level. It should be at F or slightly above. Slightly above is OK.

Start car and run it for 30-60 seconds. Turn off car. Check oil level again. Should be at F or slightly above. If you only put 4.5 quarts in, you may need to add more oil. If you added 5 quarts you won't need to add any more oil. Top off all fluids and set your tire pressures. Yay.
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Last edited by furiouswrx; 08-07-2012 at 02:57 AM. Reason: cleanup stuff
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:04 AM   #27
evilspoons
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Furiouswrx - thanks for the guide and pictures. Followed almost to the letter, although I left the cap on before taking the drain plug out in order to reduce the spray a bit. Not sure if it really helped, because it still blew around a bit (doing it outside sucks).

First oil change on my '12 STi done and no problems so far! Yay mechanically-incompetent me!
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:55 AM   #28
bucko3the7man
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Pro tip on taking oil filter off - Use a red solo cup. Once you break it loose, grab it with a red solo cup and screw off normally. Saves time and drips.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:11 AM   #29
Jerry_NJ
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Okay, so what is a "solo cup"? If it was introduced in this thread I don't remember and am not taking time to study the good work above.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:32 AM   #30
schochwave
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A solo cup is a mass produced disposable drinking cup available in a rainbow of colors.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:50 PM   #31
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Thanks, I'm an old (USA) guy, and solo cup didn't mean anything to me... sounds like a good idea. I usually use a throwaway plastic glove when changing oil to reduce burns (I change it hot, sometimes too hot I guess) and the cup would provide the heat shield needed on the filter. When I say hot, I mean 150 degrees Fahrenheit (guess) not hot enough to melt a plastic cup.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:18 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schochwave View Post
A solo cup is a mass produced disposable drinking cup available in a rainbow of colors.
And by that you mean "beer pong cup".
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:26 PM   #33
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I like the solo cup tip! That part is always messy.

Here's another tip that I just started doing:
I usually have ~1/4 qt of clean oil leftover from the previous oil change (that I kept in case I needed to top off during the last interval). After the oil is finished dripping out - you know those last black drops - I then pour in that oil and it flushes the bottom of the oil pan. It works A lot of that black oil gets "washed" out and then looks like honey after.

To me, that oil is old anyway and I wouldn't use it for anything - so now at least I'm "using it" for something...
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:41 AM   #34
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I did one yesterday on my 13 and switched to the fumoto valve with the short nipple. I put a zip tie on so it is impossible for it to open accidentally, but once I installed it I realized it be 1 in a million for it to open based on where the valve rests under the plastic brush guard.



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Old 12-03-2012, 10:26 AM   #35
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Fumoto valve, that's a new one on me. I take the lower two pictures (nice pictures they are) to be of the valve. Two questions: what does it cost and where? Comment: the valve looks to my eye to restrict the flow rate of the oil drain, i.e., less of a flushing drain that one gets when pulling the factory drain plug. Is this a concern, or just me?
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:53 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry_NJ View Post
Fumoto valve, that's a new one on me. I take the lower two pictures (nice pictures they are) to be of the valve. Two questions: what does it cost and where? Comment: the valve looks to my eye to restrict the flow rate of the oil drain, i.e., less of a flushing drain that one gets when pulling the factory drain plug. Is this a concern, or just me?
Just google fumoto valve, they are like $25

It may restrict your flow a tiny bit. I know some people remove them every three changes or so, but I was thinking taking a clean quart and flushing it through at the end, should help remove anything that doesn't come out. Plenty of people have used these for years without issue. I'm sure it works fine. There is a video of it in action on the website I think it's qwikvalve.com
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by builthatch View Post
dang, what happened to the pictures?!

anyway, i HIGHLY recommend an oil filter wrench for the first oil change. my STI had a black oil filter and it was IMPOSSIBLE to remove without one.

Craftsman universal (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-unive...1&blockType=G1) or Lisle 63600 is the ticket because you'll never need another oil filter "wrench" again.

it appeared to be 68mm, the original black filter, but i'm not sure.
Looks like the site I used deleted everyone's photos without warning. I'll have to see if i still have them on my home computer.

Last edited by TenPSI; 03-09-2013 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:36 PM   #38
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Interesting looking tool, the filter removal. I've never seen anything like it. Do you drive it with a socket drive? It doesn't show on the Sears picture. The could be a bolt head underneath... I will look for one.

Where is the Lisle 63600 sold?

EDIT: Found it on Amazon for under $12.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:14 PM   #39
TenPSI
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From the Sears Site "Use your 3/8 inch square driver ratchet or your 3/4 inch wrench to turn the oil filter wrench effortlessly. As soon as you apply torque in either direction, the oil filter wrench automatically tightens allowing you to remove your oil filter with ease."

BTW Original Pictures are up again the Admin had to get the techs to fix it.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:41 PM   #40
dsn112
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Shot of the fumoto valve in action today. Made zero mess using the valve and a solo cup today. Sweet! Got to order one for my sonata too.

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Old 03-13-2013, 02:22 PM   #41
War Bunny
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Thanks for this thread. Like others, I always change my own oil, but was insure about what if be facing as far as the plastic cover goes. Is there really any point to it?
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:34 PM   #42
dsn112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Bunny View Post
Thanks for this thread. Like others, I always change my own oil, but was insure about what if be facing as far as the plastic cover goes. Is there really any point to it?
Keeps that area clean and protected from debris. It's easy as heck to take off too, what is your concern?
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:39 PM   #43
hangmanfsc
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Thanks for the write up! Saved me at least 10-15 mins for the cover and looking for the right tools.

Dont know if its a good thing or bad that the undercover is a one piece.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:10 PM   #44
Anubis80
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Not sure why all the hate, some people, as the thread indicates, have found this helpful.

My 2 cents after doing my first oil change on my 2013 wrx: you dont need to jack the car up to do this. One of the easiest oil changes I have ever done.

I am not a big guy, 6 2" 185 lbs but i had plenty of room with a 3/8 ratchet for everything.

Good pics and writeup OP for those who need it.

Honestly the most time consuming part was removing the splash shield. Like 5 mins maybe
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:29 PM   #45
Anubis80
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Forgot to add one additional tip. I am not sure why anyone needs to use a solo cup on oil filter. Just unscrew it slightly so there is a small stream of oil. Then gradually keep unscrewing. Zero mess this way. Always done filters this way to minimize mess versus quickly unscrewing it.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:08 PM   #46
dsn112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anubis80 View Post
Forgot to add one additional tip. I am not sure why anyone needs to use a solo cup on oil filter. Just unscrew it slightly so there is a small stream of oil. Then gradually keep unscrewing. Zero mess this way. Always done filters this way to minimize mess versus quickly unscrewing it.
The cup would make your method even better, slow stream or fast, it still can create a mess for your workspace or hands and arm. The cup catches everything. Also slow streams blow in the wind if you are outside. Cup prevents this.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:32 PM   #47
Anubis80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsn112 View Post

The cup would make your method even better, slow stream or fast, it still can create a mess for your workspace or hands and arm. The cup catches everything. Also slow streams blow in the wind if you are outside. Cup prevents this.
Yea i guess i can see that. I can tell you i had very little on my hands and did so in a garage. Its a good idea for sure, but just in my opinion isnt as needed as other cars I have changed oil in.

But hey whatever works for you, go for it.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:07 PM   #48
Ftinney84
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Ah damn I knew i forgot something today. The cup!!!! Lol
Very good guide(s) here, thanks guys. It even made it easy for me to do a change on my 09 wrx. First one I've ever done on any car, (I've always been lucky to give friends beer to do mine in past on other cars), and I gotta say it was a lot easier than I thought.
The only real issue I ran into was putting the splash guard back on. And I couldn't find the gasket after I took off the plug, and I was worried it was stuck somewhere, but I eventually found it when it somehow rolled 10 feet from where i was working at.
Overall very easy, I took my time as I wanted to look over everything under the car as it was my first time, just to get an idea of where everything else is. If I can do this, anyone can.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenPSI View Post

Remove the crush washer on the drain bolt and install new one while oil is draining. Once oil is done draining reinstall drain bolt to 32.5 ft-lb. Put a bead of oil around the new filters gasket and install the filter. Once it gets tight turn one more rotation. Do not use the filter wrench to tighten. Hand tighten only.
Good writeup. My thoughts here:

1. Is that torque spec correct? I'm thinking it's inch pounds. Or as I've always used: "snug". It doesn't need to be reefed on there (stamped oil pans strip easily).

2. When the gasket touches the block (i.e. you feel some resistance) a 1/2 to 3/4 turn is all that's needed. You did put a little clean oil on the new filter gasket and ensure the old gasket came off, right? Good.

3. Being an oil freak I pre-fill my oil filter before installation. Fill once and let filter media absorb oil (it works on my Jeep XJ with the sideways installed filter, I use a wix/napa gold 1515) and with our Subarus we can top it off as they're installed "right side up".

-a guy who's spent his entire life around cars and most of his working life (10 years since high school) working in an auto/ag/engine related places. P.S. the KN filter is a Bosch filter with a nut on the end. Bosch makes a good filter, and the nut is handy for loosening it especially if it was installed by a gorilla.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:29 AM   #50
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Thanks! My first oil change is coming soon. Any diy or info is definitely helpful!! Thanks!!!!!
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