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Old 10-06-2012, 01:15 PM   #1
DaveyPetey
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Default Adjust JDM Bugeye HID cut-off???

Hey all. I did a search quickly but can't find an answer....can I adjust the cut off a little higher on my LHD retro-fitted projectors? The drivers side is jut pointing too low. If a car is 2 second in front of my on the highway it doesn't even reach their license plate. Any help would be awesome.
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:36 PM   #2
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raise the front end of the car a little
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:52 PM   #3
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Ha! Yump it!
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:46 PM   #4
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No he needs coilovers on one side of the car lower then the other

You have to open the lights and trim the aluminum part of the cut off. If your doing this you should just install tsx projectors. As they are so much better.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:03 PM   #5
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Already installed. That is unfortunate.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:13 PM   #6
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I guess I don't quite understand. I thought the retrofit retains the pitch adjustment. Is the alignment such that the max pitch adjustment up is still too low? If so, you need to reopen the headlight and drill new mounting points that sits reasonably level when the pitch adjustment is in the middle setting.

I hope you used butyl rubber to seal the lens onto the housing; you can simply reheat them and they'll come apart. You need to cover the outside of the lens with saran wrap or painters tape before doing that, and quickly cover the inside with saran wrap as well to prevent some of the butyl goo from tacking on to any of the clear lens surface.
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:34 AM   #7
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Pitch adjustment? That sounds like what I am looking to hear about.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:41 PM   #8
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From what I see in the picture it looks like the rotation is off for one of the projectors. Until this is fixed, aligning them would prove frustrating at best.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:12 AM   #9
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If the car is on parallel ground with respect to the wall, then it looks to me more than half of the "rotation" is due to bowing, not roll rotation.

Check to see if the HID capsule (i.e. "bulb") is seated properly onto the projector back.

The pitch adjustment could hopefully be resolved by the adjuster screw on the JDM headlight back.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:54 AM   #10
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I'll check it tomorrow and get back to you guys. Do you think that both sides look rotated? It was in a parking garage so may have not been totally level. I'll try to get some more pics up tomorrow. Thanks for all the help. Hope I didn't get into a bad set-up.

Last edited by DaveyPetey; 10-10-2012 at 01:00 AM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:09 AM   #11
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As you spotted, pitch for the passenger side needs adjusting, but the next one is the bowing of that same side. Rotation (roll) may be less than 2 degrees once the bowing is resolved.

Did you separate the shield from the reflector bowl at any time? Reinstalling it less than 1 mm too low would make it the cutoff frown; too high would make it smile.
Equivalently, if the capsule is seated a bit off, either offset up or down (less likely) or pitched up or down (more likely, as subtle as it may be) would also produce bowing.
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:34 AM   #12
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I actually purchased them already retrofitted here on NASIOC and installed them back in July as you remember. My car then sat in storage until just last week.

I am surprised that the tolerances for the retrofit are so exact. Do most retrofits require multiple attempts for success? So should I start by pulling the lights completely off to check the seating or is this something that should be done with the lights in place so that the levels can be checked?

Last edited by DaveyPetey; 10-10-2012 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:58 AM   #13
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so there is no adjustment screw (probably an 8mm hex head) on the back of the housing?
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:40 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12sechatch View Post
so there is no adjustment screw (probably an 8mm hex head) on the back of the housing?
I'll look tonight. Am i gonna need to pull the battery/air duct?
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:05 PM   #15
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shouldn't, however, it might help. pull the air duct if anything, that is easier, then you can figure out where it is.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveyPetey View Post
I actually purchased them already retrofitted here on NASIOC and installed them back in July as you remember. My car then sat in storage until just last week.

I am surprised that the tolerances for the retrofit are so exact. Do most retrofits require multiple attempts for success? So should I start by pulling the lights completely off to check the seating or is this something that should be done with the lights in place so that the levels can be checked?
The tolerances are especially critical for projector units with clear lens because of their almost binary transition between light and dark. Halogen reflectors is on the other opposite end of need for alignment tolerance.

For that reason, no retrofit should be done in a permanent sense of not having adjustment. Rotation (in the sense of roll) and yaw may be ok to permanently bake in during the retrofit, but pitch depends so much on front-rear weight distribution that it needs to be adjustable without opening.

If the retrofit was properly done, at least pitch still could be adjusted. I would say rotation (i.e. roll) is most likely already baked in unless you're willing to open the headlight.

Bowing however, might be remedied by experimenting with adding layers of aluminum tape on the lower or upper side of the surface that the capsule sits on to the back of the reflector bowl.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:38 PM   #17
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Well a tangential up-date (my car is in the body shop)...I contacted Daniel Stern Lightening for some advice/make a purchase on new fog lamps. After letting him know what kit had been retrofitted into my jdm projectors by the previous owner this was his response:

Oy vey.

Sorry, this is just not going to work. I do not provide equipment for use with unsafe lights or headlamp-shaped toys, and that's what you've got. "Morimoto" = Chinese-made garbage, not built, approved, or certified to any technical standard or regulation for headlamp performance. Marketeered under a Japanese-sounding name to fool customers into thinking they're getting something they're not.

Granted I was mistaken that they were a TSX retrofit, but are they really unsafe? Should I be pulling them off?
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveyPetey
Well a tangential up-date (my car is in the body shop)...I contacted Daniel Stern Lightening for some advice/make a purchase on new fog lamps. After letting him know what kit had been retrofitted into my jdm projectors by the previous owner this was his response:

Oy vey.

Sorry, this is just not going to work. I do not provide equipment for use with unsafe lights or headlamp-shaped toys, and that's what you've got. "Morimoto" = Chinese-made garbage, not built, approved, or certified to any technical standard or regulation for headlamp performance. Marketeered under a Japanese-sounding name to fool customers into thinking they're getting something they're not.

Granted I was mistaken that they were a TSX retrofit, but are they really unsafe? Should I be pulling them off?
Well, there are different perceptions of what is crap, and almost every setup can be crappy compared to another setup.

Morimoto mini h1 are ok, they are not bad but they are not great. There is a guy here in my area who just retrofitted these (version 5) and the solenoids are sticking. Not something that would happen with oem projectors. They can't take oem bulbs (need to be rebased H1) and he is right they certainly not need to comply with any standards, that is probably why he will never recommend this kind of equipment. But this also does not mean they are not any good.

He is kind of a purist and I can understand why he says that as he probably do not want to endorse anything that is not perfectly legal or certified etc.

That being said, I dont think they are unsafe or need to be removed, unless you want to upgrade to something better.

Edit: regarding the rotational alignment, on mine even though the projector in the headlights are perfectly level, they are off rotation when mounted on the car. Something must be wrong with my car

Nevertheless you do have some play available in the headlight mounting on the car. Loosen the 3 bolts enough to be able to wiggle the headlight, turn on the headlights on a wall and see if you have enough play to align them correctly. If not (but close) you might want to try slightly enlarging the holes that are towards the grill in the headlights if you dont have enough play. Once the alignment is ok, tighten the bolts while holding the headlight inposition, and hope its still good once tightened. Be careful not to put too much force on the headlights because the plastic tab with the 2 holes are pretty flimsy.

I was able to correct a small rotational alignment issue as well as a vertical issue. The passenger side was crooked, and poointing too upwards compared to the other, and I did not want to work too much on the factory vertical alignment and end up with the projector mis-centered in the bezel.

Last edited by frederik; 10-18-2012 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:20 PM   #19
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^
Agree.

The Mini H1 may trump an early generation oem valeo projector, in terms of beam width and distance lighting, while at the same time maintaining minimal glare in low beam mode. In that sense, it's not unsafe. Having said that, there may be other considerations that puts aftermarket units into Stern's unsafe category.

If anything, I agree that there is value in going with a product that has to meet certain standards. When we choose to go with a product that doesn't need to pass certain standards as required by applicable regulation, the burden is on us to make sure that all the factors that drove the standards are considered. Most people won't be able to do that.

Imho, that's why it is a good idea to turn to responsible forums to get as informed as possible before putting something that alters the beam intensity pattern (e.g. higher wattage halogen bulbs, retrofit a biX, etc.).
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:25 PM   #20
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Hmmmm. I respect everything you guys have said. Would you run my current set up on your car? Or should I remove/retrofit it? And what would be a better alternative given the housings I currently have?
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:48 PM   #21
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Just came across this thread of people discussing the MH1 and TLs. Some used the term unsafe when talking about the mh1, but because it has shorter distance throw, and said it felt unsafe at higher speed. They also talk about how a nice even output on a wall does not result in a nice spread on the road.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...hlight=Rx350bx

I would say try them out, if you feel they lack too much distance throw for your taste, there are other options. Choice of projector always depends on how much custom work you are willing to do, and dollars to fork out. TSX are easy, rx330 are harder but better, s2000 even better. Rx350bx were quite some work but I love them, and TLs I cant imagine fitting them in there.

There is also the FX oem projectors (bixenon) or the morimoto fx-r (r for replica).

A few comparison threads, some low beam, some bixenon and some mixed:


http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...-TL-E55-FX-etc

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/cont...-FX-IS-e46-LR3

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...n-FX-RX-SC-S2K

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...eam-Comparison


And this one specifically comparing modded S2000 to modded RX330:

http://www.jvxdriver.com/Modded%20S2...Comparison.htm

Last edited by frederik; 10-18-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:18 PM   #22
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Ugggh. Should have spent more time researching. I do feel like they are better than my OEM 90k mile original halogen headlight bulbs were, but definitely not up to the level that I thought they would be. Unfortunately at my point in training at work I just don't have the time to sort it all out. What do you guys think about getting a proper retrofit through lightwerkz? Anyone else you can recommend?

In the mean time any temporizing measures? Before Mr Stern cut me off he had recommended a bulb from www.gmpartsdirect.com he refered to as 9011, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens for my high beams, and Narva Rangepower+50 for the fogs. Thoughts?

Last edited by DaveyPetey; 10-18-2012 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:18 PM   #23
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I would use the Mini H1 setup you have if the alignment has been adjusted. At the minimum, this will involve the pitch and tilt. I'd check for bowing as well, and try to fix that.

I used Mini D2S for a while, and while the Mini H1 tends to be more favored out the box in by most HIDP members that gave their 2cents, the Mini D2S, properly aligned, put more distance lighting than the oem bugeye halogens and had slightly more width coverage. The downside to the D2S is more foreground lighting, and clear lens tends to exaggerate the cutoff bounce when driving on speed bumps and over hill crests.

I don't believe that the Mini H1 is a poor choice for a DIYer.

I currently use a replica of Hella e55 (EvoX-R in TRS) that is a better performer in many aspects. But it has a 3" lens, which makes retrofit a bit more complicated than a 2.5" lens for space considerations.

I'm still surprised your retrofitted headlights do not have a pitch adjustment. That would be the one thing that could address most of the misalignment on the RHS. Can you try taking a picture of the back side of the headlight? My guess is the adjustment screw is still there, hidden by the leveling motor mechanism.

For now, if pitch adjustment isn't possible, how about getting oem halogen headlights and then take your time to re open the jdm headlights. Many HIDP members in Nasioc can help your build thread.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:32 PM   #24
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That's good to hear. I'll be working in the lights this weekend when I get my car back from the body shop tomorrow night. Thanks again all.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:11 AM   #25
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I have the same headlights and I am pretty sure the vertical alignment is still there. When retrofitting the projector, it would be more work to cancel this alignment than keeping it.

It should be at the bottom back of the headlight, look for a white plastic hex. It is pretty hard to access compared to some other cars or headlights (IIRC the oem bugeye halogens have a phillips screw on top of the headlight)

To tweak this while the headlights are mounted I use a tiny ratchet with an 8mm box.
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