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Old 10-09-2012, 04:04 AM   #276
mikeydrives1
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Member#: 262117
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Vehicle:
2001 Forester
STi II type M

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forget the RA 5spd.

I almost took that route, but when push came to shove, i landed on a 6spd swap with DCCDpro for the FSTi build.

Totally worth saving the extra cash for.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:48 AM   #277
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Join Date: Mar 2000
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Location: Hickigan
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'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeydrives1
forget the RA 5spd.

I almost took that route, but when push came to shove, i landed on a 6spd swap with DCCDpro for the FSTi build.

Totally worth saving the extra cash for.
I fail so see what bearing this has on this post what-so-ever...
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:13 AM   #278
Rene2.5RS
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Location: Bristol, CT
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2011 Outback 2.5i L
VRP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I fail so see what bearing this has on this post what-so-ever...
This made me also a very true statement
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:06 PM   #279
claythrow
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2004 STI
Root Beer

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Aaron,

You seem to give little regard to anything I have to say but I'm going to say it anyway.

First of all. Good job on the deadening. And I'm not patronizing you, your application is very good.

Second, as far as SQ, those subs aren't top 20, more like top 10. If you ever need to sell them I know plenty of people who would buy them, but you probably do as well.

I have a couple criticisms and before you get defensive just consider that this is how the best cars in the world do it.

I can see spots on the door where you just ran the deadener over an open hole. At least from the pictures I'm pretty sure thats what you did. That should have been closed up with sheet metal and then deadened. You are trying to create an enclosure for your driver and while there is nothing you can do about various holes or air leaks in the door that need to remain open you want your enclosure to be structurally sound. Deadener just spread over a big hole is floppy and you are just losing acoustic energy. Sheet metal, then deaden, deaden, deaden. If I had my doors to do over again I would have deadened the sheet metal with a layer before screwing it on. It was a non factor though as it became a game for people to stop by my car with whatever cd they had in hand and try to make my doors rattle…no one was able to do it even with the subs running all the way down to 20hz. Also running foam blocks with grooves cut in them and then lubing the door rods will ensure that it is impossible for them to rattle. It looks like you added a soft layer to buffer the actual door panel once it was back on so bravo there too.

The other thing there may be a good reason for and I just don't know it. But why did you go to that extent to run what looks like a 5.25"? You could be running a slim 8". Morel's, Dynaudio etc. Perhaps you weren't looking to use the door as a mid bass but you are there…why aren't you? If it's because you don't want to make kicks (just a shot in the dark, maybe you already have kicks) from what I've seen I think you would have no problem making kicks, that is if you could get over your fear of MDF

Lastly I see you put foam behind the driver to prevent any back wave problems. I don't know if you have ever tried deflex pads but they really work. I used to use egg crate type foam but deflex pads do an audibly better job. For a long time I though they were a gimmick, but they are the real deal.

Pics to show you what I'm talking about with the doors

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3921449&type=1

Last edited by claythrow; 10-11-2012 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:11 PM   #280
bigbikeben
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Evergreen, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza 2.5 TS
Pacific Blue

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Wow... just wow. I know this is an old thread but I'm curious, Aaron, if you have any final updates on the project. I've been chasing rattles through my '04 TS since I got it and I'm considering doing some vibration dampening and noise deadening to get rid of them for good.

While I don't want to go nearly as far as you (my NA would definitely feel the weight gain), I am really curious about the finished results and/or if you had to make any modifications once the project was complete (i.e. missed spots, wiring conflicts, or heat issues).

Regardless, job well done so far and kudos for the step-by-steps. You deserve that forum sponsorship.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:08 PM   #281
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

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Quote:
Originally Posted by claythrow View Post
Aaron,

You seem to give little regard to anything I have to say but I'm going to say it anyway.

First of all. Good job on the deadening. And I'm not patronizing you, your application is very good.

Second, as far as SQ, those subs aren't top 20, more like top 10. If you ever need to sell them I know plenty of people who would buy them, but you probably do as well.

I have a couple criticisms and before you get defensive just consider that this is how the best cars in the world do it.

I can see spots on the door where you just ran the deadener over an open hole. At least from the pictures I'm pretty sure thats what you did. That should have been closed up with sheet metal and then deadened. You are trying to create an enclosure for your driver and while there is nothing you can do about various holes or air leaks in the door that need to remain open you want your enclosure to be structurally sound. Deadener just spread over a big hole is floppy and you are just losing acoustic energy. Sheet metal, then deaden, deaden, deaden. If I had my doors to do over again I would have deadened the sheet metal with a layer before screwing it on. It was a non factor though as it became a game for people to stop by my car with whatever cd they had in hand and try to make my doors rattle…no one was able to do it even with the subs running all the way down to 20hz. Also running foam blocks with grooves cut in them and then lubing the door rods will ensure that it is impossible for them to rattle. It looks like you added a soft layer to buffer the actual door panel once it was back on so bravo there too.

The other thing there may be a good reason for and I just don't know it. But why did you go to that extent to run what looks like a 5.25"? You could be running a slim 8". Morel's, Dynaudio etc. Perhaps you weren't looking to use the door as a mid bass but you are there…why aren't you? If it's because you don't want to make kicks (just a shot in the dark, maybe you already have kicks) from what I've seen I think you would have no problem making kicks, that is if you could get over your fear of MDF

Lastly I see you put foam behind the driver to prevent any back wave problems. I don't know if you have ever tried deflex pads but they really work. I used to use egg crate type foam but deflex pads do an audibly better job. For a long time I though they were a gimmick, but they are the real deal.

Pics to show you what I'm talking about with the doors

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...3921449&type=1
I give little regard to what you are saying because you arent paying attention..

The holes in my doors arent large enough for me to worry about covering them with metal, the 2-3 layers of deadener is plenty sufficient.. the speakers dont produce enough pressure with the gaping slot all along the top of the door.. for me to be concerned..

The door latch/lock prop rods.. see above


The midbasss are 6.75" Alchemists and at 96db efficient, no issues there.. Without building door panels its the largest thing you can get in a GC..

Fear of MDF... ive got 20+hrs in my sub baffle alone..

And finally.. I do have Dflex pads in my doors..

Lets see your car now.. hahah

Last edited by Aaron'z 2.5RS; 01-23-2014 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:40 PM   #282
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Location: Hickigan
Vehicle:
'00 RS/WRX Stg5
'98 RS Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbikeben View Post
Wow... just wow. I know this is an old thread but I'm curious, Aaron, if you have any final updates on the project. I've been chasing rattles through my '04 TS since I got it and I'm considering doing some vibration dampening and noise deadening to get rid of them for good.

While I don't want to go nearly as far as you (my NA would definitely feel the weight gain), I am really curious about the finished results and/or if you had to make any modifications once the project was complete (i.e. missed spots, wiring conflicts, or heat issues).

Regardless, job well done so far and kudos for the step-by-steps. You deserve that forum sponsorship.
No real updates.. just been driving.. half the time without thw stereo even on.. haha

No real issues after the fact.. lots of pre-planning
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:12 PM   #283
kaminaricelica07
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Member#: 113042
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Summerville, SC
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
WRB

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you went WAY further overboard then we did. this seems so familiar...here's something a buddy and i worked on a few years back.





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Old 04-20-2014, 03:01 AM   #284
Scooby06doo
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Location: PA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
OB

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Holy cow. How much added weight is that? Lol
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