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Old 09-20-2012, 03:26 PM   #401
delongedoug
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View of all the safety hardware installed, Racetech seat, Racetech 5 point harness, and Sparco Harness bar. Notice the bar is set at the proper height to keep the harnesses at the proper orientation to hold the driver safely in a crash. Often people bolt the belts in at extreme angles which will actually compress the spine with a dangerous amount of force if not installed within the angles specified. After spending all this money on safety equipment, I want to make sure it all works properly.


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So no rollbar? Harness bar, really?
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:05 PM   #402
soccer05
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So no rollbar? Harness bar, really?
Yep harness bar no roll bar. At my level there is no need for a roll bar, and I wanted to have access to my rear seats if in an emergency I needed to pile people in. My build has followed my mantra of do it right the first time or don't do it. If I felt I needed additional safety equipment I would have skipped the roll bar and done a proper roll age cage gusseted to the chassis with dimple die plates. Of course, this means a completely gutted and caged race car which was not the purpose of this build and overkill for my project goals at this time. Maybe in the future but it does not fit my current goals as I do not feel a caged car should be driven on the street without a helmet. This is still my daily driver so no cage.

For me skip the roll bar, if you truly feel you need one then you need a proper roll cage. It's kind of like accusump's, if you truly feel you need one then what you really need is a dry sump. For me and my goals, I think I already went a step or two overboard on safety equipment for my goals. I hope at some point to get the car and my driving skills to the point where I need a cage.
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:39 PM   #403
soccer05
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Picked up the karlton fender flares on Tuesday. I can not tell you how nice these flares are, they look absolutely amazing on his car. It will be nice to have no problems fitting larger rubber when I upgrade my motor drivetrain package. These flares easily swallow 295's on a 10.5 wheel with a +15 offset. I will be sticking with my current rim/tire combo for the time being , as 275's are plenty of tire for my current power level (a relatively low 330-350 whp, still waiting to be dyno'd until body work is completely). I have been crazy busy with work but will post pics up soon. I have an appointment scheduled with a highly recommended body shop from some friends of mine who will be attaching the flares, painting them wrb and blending, as well as installing the quick release front bumper. Very impressed with these flares, as well as finding a body shop that knew exactly how I want things done and can do it. More pics and updates to follow. I can not tell you how nice and meaty these flares look on the car, huge thanks to karlton for bringing such a nice product to the market, as well as his advice and guidance throughout my build.


Oh, earlier this week finished plotting out all my suspension pickup points, all measured now I just need to transfer the measurements to graph paper and map out my suspension geometry. I am hoping to run a 15mm spacer like t3h_clap recommended, but need to see exactly how it will affect my scrub radius and kpi. Was gonna graph it out this week but work got in the way, but all the hard parts are done, now it is just transplanting coordinates to graph paper. Very important as I wanted to check my roll couple and instant centers as well, so I really needed to do this step but had been dragging my feet. More updates to follow, hopefully everything will work out properly.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:14 PM   #404
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Can't wait to see how they look!
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:07 AM   #405
soccer05
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Do you have a motor plan in the works? I don't remember 100% but this car will be for NASA or other road race events right?

I vote destroked 2.5 or long rod 2.5 with a rotated 35r or bigger and a JDM 6speed
No plans for motor internals at this stage of the build, too busy with chassis setup but definitely in the future. I hope to be going through gst for their 2.6 liter package with cosworth heads and a full race efr twin scroll setup. But this will be a ways down the road, as my transmission and coilovers will need to be addressed before I go with such an insane increase of power. Definitely in the future, but it is down a ways on my list. My next few purchases will be a 6 speed, proper coilovers, upgraded diff, and then depending on need tubular subframe and suspension geometry alterations or motor build. It's in the works but definitely way down the road.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:59 AM   #406
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Can't wait to see how they look!
Me too, they look absolutely amazing. Plus they let me use all that suspension travel the rear of the car has. I can't wait to get my 6 speed and upgrade my rims to a proper (lighter) wheels setup. I'm thinking some 10.5 or 11 inch ccw or volk rims would be nice. Of course I'd need more power to turn all that rubber. Definitely going to look amazing when it comes out of the body shop.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:36 AM   #407
ph0bic
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this build is sick.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:04 AM   #408
JD06WRX
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Stupid Pontiac slogan comes to mind... "Wider is better"
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:52 PM   #409
soccer05
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this build is sick.
Thanks glad you like it. It definitely took off with a life of its own since I originally started it as a built suspension and stage 2 power build. It should be a rather capable car when it gets back on the road
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:30 AM   #410
soccer05
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Stupid Pontiac slogan comes to mind... "Wider is better"
Ha that does fit this build. As long as I can have correct suspension geometry I don't mind a car with some fat hips!!

Last edited by soccer05; 09-27-2012 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:59 PM   #411
soccer05
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So finished mapping out my front suspension geometry. Very, very happy with my ballpark settings. For those that are interested, on a car with a ride height Of 13.5 inches center of hub to top of fender arch, 2.25 degrees camber, sti front control arms and 18x9.5 et35 rims with 275/35-18 tires, I have a scrub radius of 8 or 12 mm. I will have to check my notes as i dont have my notes on me. This is excellent for steering feel without being so excessive as to cause torque steer. I am going to experiment with some 10mm spacers and see how that affects the steering feels, would still keep me under an inch of scrub, give me slightly more inboard clearance to my fender wells, and widen the track width. When I get back home I will update my measurements so people know where my lateral instant centers are, roll couples, etc. on a similar setup. Very excited, now I need to order some arp extended wheel studs to fit with my spacers.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:16 PM   #412
soccer05
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For any suspension geeks out there who care, a minor update on my suspension geometry. As stated on the post above, for my car with this combination of parts and ride height, I am currently running 15mm of scrub radius with my parts combination. This is excellent for steering feel, providing good steering feel without excessive torque steer or side scrub. I will be testing out a 10mm spacer for the car, to see if I like the feel with the increased scrub radius. This would increase the scrub radius to 25mm of scrub, or 1 inch. I was tempted to test a 20 mm spacers (which would increase my track width almost an additional inch per side) but decided against it to keep my torque steer to a minimum. I feel just under one inch of scrub is a decent compromise between steering feel, torque steer, and track width.

My lateral instant center is now about 104" from vehicle centerline, and 74.6 inches from wheel centerline.

Roll Center height is 4 inches above the ground.

KPA is 15 degrees

Hopefully this helps those interested in modifying their wrx suspension for handling make some informed decisions. All measurements were done with the vehicle as is, without the 10mm spacers. Obviously, the spacers would change the measurements some. I am also contemplating grinding on my strut housing to enable more camber to be adjusted at the shock, and less negative on my camber plates, which would reduce my scrub radius slightly and my sai. All of this would again slightly change my final measurements. I will post up my final end product when I decide which I want to do.

Last edited by soccer05; 11-02-2012 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:36 PM   #413
WRX8XB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer05 View Post
So finished mapping out my front suspension geometry. Very, very happy with my ballpark settings. For those that are interested, on a car with a ride height Of 13.5 inches center of hub to top of fender arch, 2.25 degrees camber, sti front control arms and 18x9.5 et35 rims with 275/35-18 tires, I have a scrub radius of 8 or 12 mm. I will have to check my notes as i dont have my notes on me. This is excellent for steering feel without being so excessive as to cause torque steer. I am going to experiment with some 10mm spacers and see how that affects the steering feels, would still keep me under an inch of scrub, give me slightly more inboard clearance to my fender wells, and widen the track width. When I get back home I will update my measurements so people know where my lateral instant centers are, roll couples, etc. on a similar setup. Very excited, now I need to order some arp extended wheel studs to fit with my spacers.
Before you go chopping up your fenders you're going to want to get baseline ride height measurements with a different location than hub to fender, since your fender will be at a different location when the flares are on.

Once you get the flares on you can confirm your original baseline and do the math against your new hub to fender. This will help with future adjustments and when informing people of your ride height.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:44 PM   #414
apetron
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The flares actually follow the same line as the original fenders. If you were to put them on without cutting anything you would see they are parallel to each other.

OP - If you need a set of wide wheels for the flares, I have a set of RPF1s with 275 star specs on them. They'll be at Karltons house if you want to check them out.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:53 PM   #415
soccer05
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Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
Before you go chopping up your fenders you're going to want to get baseline ride height measurements with a different location than hub to fender, since your fender will be at a different location when the flares are on.

Once you get the flares on you can confirm your original baseline and do the math against your new hub to fender. This will help with future adjustments and when informing people of your ride height.
Absolutely, I was mainly including the ride height so people would have an idea about ride height in regards to my measurements and specifications, as they would change with ride height, and give them an idea of where my specs were if they decided to lower the car as far as I have. I will be measuring to points on the frame, as I feel these are more accurate and universal anyways, and be posting those in the future.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:57 PM   #416
soccer05
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The flares actually follow the same line as the original fenders. If you were to put them on without cutting anything you would see they are parallel to each other.

OP - If you need a set of wide wheels for the flares, I have a set of RPF1s with 275 star specs on them. They'll be at Karltons house if you want to check them out.
I would love those, but unfortunately after bodywork I am saving for a 6 speed swap and upgraded dampers. I love the RPF1 though, it's good looking, and one of the few strong, lightweight, AND affordable wheel packages available. I wanted that rim so bad, but went with the rota's due to it being drilled for both 5x100 and 5x114.3, and I knew I would be upgrading to a 6 speed soon. I am sure they will sell quickly though, thanks for the info about the flares being parallel, I was unaware of that. What are the specs of your rims?
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:44 AM   #417
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Hmm...gonna have to stick around for this thread.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:40 PM   #418
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Hope the cars coming along well!
This is like waiting for the last episode to your favorite show..
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:28 PM   #419
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Hope the cars coming along well!
This is like waiting for the last episode to your favorite show..
+1
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:31 PM   #420
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did a great job document the process and looks very well put together, now post moar PICS! sub'd
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:02 AM   #421
soccer05
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Well I know it has been a while, but again progress has been made with my project. While waiting for the bodyshop to finish moving into its new facility, I decided to purchase a set of 10mm hubcentric spacers from http://wheeladapter.com/. To safely run the spacer, I needed to upgrade to ARP extended wheel studs. I am kicking myself in the butt for cheaping out earlier in the build, as I could have had them pressed in while the wheel bearings were being replaced, but decided against it due to budget. Since budget has long since gone out the window, ARP extended studs are here. Front install was easy, first remove the Stoptech Front Brake Caliper and front brake rotor to get to the studs.


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Old 11-03-2012, 12:14 AM   #422
soccer05
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Next is just like any other wheel stud replacement. Thread the a lug nut on, and whack the **** out of it witht he universal bfh. Again, I love having a California rust free, no road salt car, only took a couple smacks and out the studs came. I had gone down to the local auto parts store and picked up a cheap bearing that would fit over the wheel stud, I prefer to use a bearing over the stack of washers method, as the bearing reduces the stress on the stud. Nothing wrong with the other method, I just prefer this method, makes sense for me and its only an $8 bearing.


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Old 11-03-2012, 12:16 AM   #423
soccer05
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ARP Front Wheel studs installed.


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Last edited by soccer05; 11-03-2012 at 12:22 AM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:34 AM   #424
soccer05
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I didn't take pictures of the rear install, I was too frustrated at Subaru's design on the rear. I first disassembled the emergency brake assembly, abs sensor ring, and removed the abs sensor. The arp wheel studs head was just under 3/4 of an inch in diameter. I got frustrated at the results gotten with a die grinder, so I instead threw some oil on a 7/8 inch drill bit and bore the abs sensor hole slightly larger. I then thread the ARP wheel studs through the abs sensor hole, and with some finagling with the wheel stud and abs sensor ring, I was able to install the wheel studs. I again used the bearing technique with anti seize compound on the threads to pull the new wheel stud in place. Here is the wheel studs installed in the rear, I can't believe Subaru made a design that would require the disassembly and reinstallation of new wheel bearing to replace the studs.


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Old 11-03-2012, 12:46 AM   #425
soccer05
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Rear end all reassembled and ready for wheel to be mounted. I can not wait to get my 6 speed installed with some real rear brakes. Those stock discs are so puny they are not even ventilated!!! Definitely next on the list.


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