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Old 10-21-2012, 11:49 AM   #1
avionator
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Default automatic engine into a manual car

main question i have is about removal of the torque converter plate (if that's what it's called) to swap the flywheel from my busted engine. (2009 2.5i impreza). I know the flywheel has some threaded holes in it that you can attach a metal strap to keep the fw from turning while wrenching on it. Does the automatic have the same type of deal? the new-to-me engine is being delivered monday, and i'd like to be prepared.

thanks
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:38 PM   #2
69subaru360
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Blast them off with an impact gun. If you don't have one just clamp some visegrips on the flexplate to hold it or stick a bar through the holes.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:55 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post
Blast them off with an impact gun. If you don't have one just clamp some visegrips on the flexplate to hold it or stick a bar through the holes.

I'm told these bolts will sometimes get pretty rounded if you use an impact.

I ended up just looping a wire coat-hanger through a small hole in the flex-plate and wrapping it around the bottom engine stud. It was super effective, super cheap, and super easy. while it was on there i took off the crank pully to change the t-belt. to remove the crank pulley i threw on my 22mm socket on my 1/2" drive wrench and stood on it. One quick bounce and it was loose. super easy. (on that note, we removed the crank pully from my busted engine while it was still in the vehicle. e-brake+5th gear plus a breaker bar. no problems.)

I used the same coat-hanger method to remove/swap the flywheel. FWIW we had no problem installing the clutch without a spline tool for alignment. just eyeballed it real close. didn't seem to have any issues when we put the motor back in, the transmission slid right in once we got the engine angle equal to that of the trans.


Here are the differences i've found (so far) between an EJ253 from an automatic transmission vehicle (forgot what year) and my EJ253 from my manual transmission 2009 impreza:

1) The crank pulley from the manual has a hard rubber insert that is flush with the facing edge of the pulley. The automatic did not (maybe it came off during dissambly at the salvage yard?)

2) The manual transmission has a slotted guard that goes at the bottom of the engine, under the flywheel. The automatic did not come with such a beast. I'm guessing the torque converter has some sort of accomodation for this?

3) The manual transmission requires a small half round bracket/guard that goes above the crank gear to prevent the belt from jumping during engine braking. The auto does not have this piece.

4) When mounting the engine we discovered the male/femal relation of the stubby pins that connect the engine to the transmission were in slightly conflicting spots. Namely, there was a "male" pin in the engine from the automatic that alligned with a "male" pin in the transmission. Obviously, no good. pulled the engine up again, opened up a fresh can of MAP, heated the aluminum and wiggled the offending stud out with a pair of vice grips. We're betting this stud should've stayed in the auto transmission, and not the engine.

5) provided the engine starts (turns out my battery is pretty dead...) this will have been a very easy swap to do.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:43 AM   #4
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grrr... 100 miles on the "new" engine (ok, it has 21k on it) and i'm throwing a CEL. fuuuuuuu....

checked my coolant, it was a bit low. filled it up to "full" in the resivoir tank and CEL is still on (though, i only let the car run for a few minutes) oil is good. I don't have access to a code reader right now. i wonder what the hell is going on.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:49 AM   #5
Patrick Olsen
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Low coolant and oil level don't trigger the CEL.

Go to your local Autozone/Pep Boys/whatever. They should be able to read the code(s) for free.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:50 AM   #6
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turns out my bro has a code reader. I'm remembering the old engine has a P0420 code, but the dealer said it was the knock sensor and they turned the code off. AFAIK P0420 is catalytic converter. I'm guessing they just didn't want to deal with it, as it's an EPA warranty issue. i wonder if it will be the same code...

Anybody know if swapping engines would void that warranty? The cats are still under 80k.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Low coolant and oil level don't trigger the CEL.

Go to your local Autozone/Pep Boys/whatever. They should be able to read the code(s) for free.

ha. as if i'm near any of these things. 45 minute drive minimum and i work 12.5 hour days, so the days i'm in town i never have a chance to visit one of these magical wondershops.

not that this really has anything to do with anything.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:34 PM   #8
07Scuby
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This is going to be very helpful to me as I am swapping an 09 auto to an 07 manual.

Thanks for the info, also, a quick question.

Do the wire harnesses match up? I was told they may not.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #9
Storm
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Why would you swap the wiring harness? You bolt your original intake manifold (complete) to the new motor and plug the sensors and harness back in.


Jay

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07Scuby View Post
This is going to be very helpful to me as I am swapping an 09 auto to an 07 manual.

Thanks for the info, also, a quick question.

Do the wire harnesses match up? I was told they may not.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:08 PM   #10
07Scuby
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Thanks Jay. That's good to know.
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