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Old 03-29-2012, 05:33 PM   #1
flyboy1100
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Default 2012 Impreza: Block heater/Oil pan heater/coolant heater??

I am planning to order a Sport Premium this weekend or next, and I would like to have a block heater,oil pan heater, or one of those heaters that installs on the heater lines and circulates the coolant for next winter.

Does anyone know if there is an oil pan heater that works, or has anyone even considered these options yet?
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:00 AM   #2
pkL
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All I know about is there is a battery heater and an engine block heater.

https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/pr...oducts_id=1413
https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/pr...oducts_id=1412
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:05 AM   #3
flyboy1100
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right, but really that is the same block heater you can get at an auto parts store for about 40.00.
just curious if anyone has installed anything yet, or is planning to
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:27 AM   #4
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Yeah it is with the crazy markup.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:21 AM   #5
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after more research, i didn't realize the factory plug was just a thread in, looks like under 20 minutes of work to do the job, so I will probably put one in myself this fall.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:51 PM   #6
trbill2003
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Has anyone installed a block heater on the 2012 2.0I imprezza? If so, do you have any recommendations cautions. I put my winters on today and am now looking at the block heater. Getting ready for winter. Would an inline heater work and if so how to install?
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbill2003
Has anyone installed a block heater on the 2012 2.0I imprezza? If so, do you have any recommendations cautions. I put my winters on today and am now looking at the block heater. Getting ready for winter. Would an inline heater work and if so how to install?
I decided i don't want to mess with it and will be having the dealer install one in a few weeks
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:28 PM   #8
Commander Keen
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I installed the block heater on my 2012. It is the OEM Subaru part and costs around $35 online.

Installation involves draining the coolant and unbolting the exhaust, so unless you've done it before, it will take more than 20 minutes.

I keep my car garaged, but run the block heater on a timer anyway. Instant heat is nice in the morning, and so is reduced wear. My commute involves an early uphill merge, which would mean full throttle pulls on a cold engine.

A few things to watch out for...

-You need a very large allen socket (and probably a breaker bar) to remove the stock plug. Check the directions and make sure you have it before starting the job.

-Clearance between the plug/wire and exhaust manifold is very tight, so the block heater's orientation matters. Test fit the exhaust and rotate the heater so the wire clears the manifold.

-Use anaerobic (not RTV, not silicone) sealant on the threads of the heater. Not much torque is required for a watertight seal.

-If the car sits for a while and the coolant temperature disagrees with the other temperature sensors repeatedly, the ECU will assume the coolant temperature sensor is defective, set the CEL, light the VDC indicator and disable cruise control. The CEL is easy to clear with an OBDII tool, and has no lasting consequence. It's just a minor annoyance.

-Don't use a cheater plug. A GFCI outlet or add-on would be a good idea.

Last edited by Commander Keen; 10-21-2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:27 PM   #9
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen
I installed the block heater on my 2012. It is the OEM Subaru part and costs around $35 online.

Installation involves draining the coolant and unbolting the exhaust, so unless you've done it before, it will take more than 20 minutes.

I keep my car garaged, but run the block heater on a timer anyway. Instant heat is nice in the morning, and so is reduced wear. My commute involves an early uphill merge, which would mean full throttle pulls on a cold engine.

A few things to watch out for...

-You need a very large allen socket (and probably a breaker bar) to remove the stock plug. Check the directions and make sure you have it before starting the job.

-Clearance between the plug/wire and exhaust manifold is very tight, so the block heater's orientation matters. Test fit the exhaust and rotate the heater so the wire clears the manifold.

-Use anaerobic (not RTV, not silicone) sealant on the threads of the heater. Not much torque is required for a watertight seal.

-If the car sits for a while and the coolant temperature disagrees with the other temperature sensors repeatedly, the ECU will assume the coolant temperature sensor is defective, set the CEL, light the VDC indicator and disable cruise control. The CEL is easy to clear with an OBDII tool, and has no lasting consequence. It's just a minor annoyance.

-Don't use a cheater plug. A GFCI outlet or add-on would be a good idea.
Where did you get it for 35? Everywhere I've seen is 100+?
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:36 PM   #10
Commander Keen
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:00 AM   #11
pkL
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Seems like a hassle to install for my limited mechanical expertise. Otherwise I would get one, it would help even though my car is garaged.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:50 AM   #12
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen
I was wondering if that fit, it is the wrong part number according to the accessory catalog. The part number listed for our cars is A091SFJ000 http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...dpJ8SwVJJV7nnw

It looks the the one listed for our cars has better heat shielding and a 90 degree plug?
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:02 AM   #13
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Why the hell do you ertards buy an efficient car and then bitch about how you have to warm it up for 5 hours before you drive it?

Jesus tits. Start it. Let it run for 5 seconds... and then drive. It's not like you're helping it.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goregasm View Post
Why the hell do you ertards buy an efficient car and then bitch about how you have to warm it up for 5 hours before you drive it?

Jesus tits. Start it. Let it run for 5 seconds... and then drive. It's not like you're helping it.

you're going to have to show me those tits of yours one day
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:39 AM   #15
Commander Keen
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I can see how the angled connector would make things easier though I've been using the $32 heater with no issues.

Quote:
Why the hell do you ertards buy an efficient car and then bitch about how you have to warm it up for 5 hours before you drive it?

Jesus tits. Start it. Let it run for 5 seconds... and then drive. It's not like you're helping it.
It's not about efficiency. It's about not beating a cold engine to death. Like I said, my commute requires full power almost immediately. Feathering the throttle isn't going to cut it.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:19 AM   #16
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goregasm
Why the hell do you ertards buy an efficient car and then bitch about how you have to warm it up for 5 hours before you drive it?

Jesus tits. Start it. Let it run for 5 seconds... and then drive. It's not like you're helping it.
Um, because it does get below zero here regularly and -20 to -30F it's not uncommon in January and February
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:20 AM   #17
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen
I can see how the angled connector would make things easier though I've been using the $32 heater with no issues.

It's not about efficiency. It's about not beating a cold engine to death. Like I said, my commute requires full power almost immediately. Feathering the throttle isn't going to cut it.
Can i get you to post a picture of it fits? For 1/3 the cost I'm willing to gamble
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:26 AM   #18
Commander Keen
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I'll have to wait until tonight to look for pictures.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:19 PM   #19
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen
I'll have to wait until tonight to look for pictures.
I appreciate it
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:39 PM   #20
goregasm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
Um, because it does get below zero here regularly and -20 to -30F it's not uncommon in January and February
That's nice, it does that here too, except I'm not a ***** and I just drive.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:34 PM   #21
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goregasm View Post
That's nice, it does that here too, except I'm not a ***** and I just drive.
my wifes car (jetta) does not have a heater, and it does fine. my buick needed one though, but it was a large v6 and really didn't like the cold. but it has 223k on it and is still strong so i attribute some of that to care and the use of a block heater.

i'm assuming the subaru will do fine w/o the block heater, especially with the watery thin oil, but i plan to drive this car for 225k+ miles (9 years) so a little up front isn't much of an investment in the long term
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:40 PM   #22
Commander Keen
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With the exhaust lowered: http://postimage.org/image/tfg0j0wnr/

and bolted into place: http://postimage.org/image/56lhl26vr/

Last edited by Commander Keen; 10-23-2012 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:36 PM   #23
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen
With the exhaust lowered:

and bolted into place:
Hmm, i don't see the pics. I will check again tomorrow from a computer and not this goofy phone app
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:55 AM   #24
pkL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
With the exhaust lowered:



and bolted into place:
Try re-uploading again the pictures don't show up.
I want to see them too.

Last edited by pkL; 10-23-2012 at 04:31 AM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:25 AM   #25
Commander Keen
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Post above edited. I guess I can't embed these.
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