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Old 10-14-2012, 10:03 PM   #251
EROCS04SBRUSTI
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I have springs also dude.nice to see that on the road,I been following you for a while and keeping in touch,that is so nice to drive it once again.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:39 PM   #252
Layvon
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Gah! I'm getting stressed out. Between working 60+ hrs a week and middle of November only two weekends away I'm getting nervous.

Found a leak tonight under the throttle body, which means I have to take my FMIC pipes and alternator out to get in there.. thankfully Dom made me look into my MAP low voltage code, cause that thing was leaking like a sieve. I hope I didn't overlook a channel or something in the throttle body when I rotated it. I don't have much time to spare any more.

Things yet to do -
Find boost leak, address, and fix
Figure out which 02 sensor I have is bad.
Drive 900 miles
Yank motor
Tighten head studs
Confirm valve lash is correct
install motor
Test drive to verify nothing else went.

Debating on installing my computer here or down in Chicago... but that can go on the list too.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:29 PM   #253
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Here's the culprit. The bottom side of the throttle body doesn't have enough metal to seal off the map sensor port. this is from rotating the throttle body 90

ForumRunner_20121023_202708.jpg

What modifications are required to get alternator into AC bracket? That appears to be the fastest bet at this point.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:06 PM   #254
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Is there a spacer on the back of the TB? I'm not getting what the problem is
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:14 PM   #255
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There wasn't enough.metal on the bottom side of the intake manifold to hold the gasket onto the flange tightly.

I just removed alternator, rotated throttle body 90 (stock location) and it is happy again. I called out to outfront motorsports and they are sending me a bracket for alternator. Knee jerk reaction? Yes.

Allows ne to get rid of a lot of pain in ass components. wish i would have done it sooner. I never use AC in my 2012 truck, why I thought to keep it in my car is a mind boggler.

Just held air to 25psi. I'm not boosting more than that, so I stopped.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:29 PM   #256
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Oh I see. I guess that's why Full Race supplies the spacer with there kit. It gives you a flat surface around the entire perimeter to seal against in any orientation you want top run.

Are you gonna delete A/C all together? Condensor and all?
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:54 AM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
Oh I see. I guess that's why Full Race supplies the spacer with there kit. It gives you a flat surface around the entire perimeter to seal against in any orientation you want top run.

Are you gonna delete A/C all together? Condenser and all?
Yeah, must be. Oh well, this made life a lot easier and would have saved me a lot of heartache if i did it sooner. I got the compressor out last night, and the throttle body in the stock rotation. I'll wait and see about the Condenser, it would make things a lot cleaner looking if I did take it out, however, I'll probably wait till I pull the motor so that I dont have to fight it. Do you need some components or just curious?
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:19 PM   #258
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I'm about to say **** it.

For some reason, from the throttle body back wont hold any air now. I tested from the Throttle body going towards the turbo and was able to hold 5psi back with my hand, so that eliminates big huge gaping hole there. From the throttle body though it just sounds like air is just rushing though, yet I cannot find a hole that is making any noise. the little ****ing aircompressor that i have kicks on every 45 god damn seconds so as soon as you can make any progress that sonofabiutch kicks on.

Stupid question, but if the engine shut off just right could that affect why it wouldnt hold air? I apparently dont know **** about these motors, cause Im so fed up with chasing these gremlins. Pressure is ****ing on too to try to make it to Chicago in 3 weeks otherwise i'm going to look like a fool when i get down there.

Got my Alternator remount bracket and that installed fine also. Used the new bracket and an old timing belt pulley to make a tensioner in conjunction with the outfront bracket.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B79...Ww0cXYxaTJ0Mmc

Anyone willing to look at logs for some help would be much appreciated...
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:15 PM   #259
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Rent a bigger compressor and a spray bottle of soapy water.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:35 PM   #260
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I honestly think it is in the tune since it is still the first one.. when I first start up the car, it idles amazing. Once it gets warmed up is when I have trouble.

If I hold the accelerator down to 2500 it varies between 2250 and 2750 while keeping my foot at the same position

Last edited by Layvon; 10-27-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:33 PM   #261
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon
I honestly think it is in the tune since it is still the first one.. when I first start up the car, it idles amazing. Once it gets warmed up is when I have trouble.

If I hold the accelerator down to 2500 it varies between 2250 and 2750 while keeping my foot at the same position
So what do you think the fuel trims are too lean? I was thought that you said you had a leak still around the throttle body intake mani junction..
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:08 PM   #262
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sounds like avcs + big cams eating up bunch of air
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:46 PM   #263
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Leak has been fixed that you were talking about Manitou. I checked it this morning, and held to 22psi again. I think like bariga said, cams were holding valves open, and warm oil too, which I heard you're supposed to do it cold.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:12 PM   #264
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga
sounds like avcs + big cams eating up bunch of air
What cams did you use in your MPS build, r199 b or c? Did you experience this on your build?
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:14 PM   #265
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon
Leak has been fixed that you were talking about Manitou. I checked it this morning, and held to 22psi again. I think like bariga said, cams were holding valves open, and warm oil too, which I heard you're supposed to do it cold.
So you guys are thinking the AVCS values are off?
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:43 PM   #266
Layvon
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I don't know. Waiting for Dom to advise.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:59 PM   #267
Layvon
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Well glad I took the time to check.. valve lashes were less than perfect.

According to the documentation I have from Cosworth my cams should be .008 +-.001 and. 010 +- .001 for intake / exhaust respectively. Can anyone confirm for the 278/274 cams?
I took good notes and will be tightening head studs tomorrow, hopefully I can mix and match with what is on my car and the 15 extra buckets I have to make it work. Otherwise Jamie at SGP is getting a call!
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:17 PM   #268
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon
Well glad I took the time to check.. valve lashes were less than perfect.

According to the documentation I have from Cosworth my cams should be .008 +-.001 and. 010 +- .001 for intake / exhaust respectively. Can anyone confirm for the 278/274 cams?
I took good notes and will be tightening head studs tomorrow, hopefully I can mix and match with what is on my car and the 15 extra buckets I have to make it work. Otherwise Jamie at SGP is getting a call!
I have a set I'll email you the sizes.

Last edited by manitou; 11-06-2012 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:04 PM   #269
Layvon
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Got everything buttoned back up tonight. Got buckets from Angel down in detroit, and everything measured up right at .008 or .007 for intake, and .010 or .009 for exhaust.

Put roughly 15 psi worth of springs in the wastegates too, hopefully a good level for 22-25 psi with boost control.

Head studs are torqued to 98.6 ft pounds a piece, for a little added assurance.

First positive night I've had in the garage in a while. Hoping I can get a hold of Dominic tomorrow to get my base map, because with some luck, I'll have my car fired up again tomorrow afternoon and driving sunday would be nice. Dyno Thursday and only have 135 miles on motor.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:03 AM   #270
manitou
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Good progress , now you know for sure what you have. Are you going to do a boost leak check again after its back together and running? Let thing heat cycle and then check for leaks. Did you install the 1 bar spring?
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:29 AM   #271
Layvon
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Absolutely going to check. I did install those springs.. man that was a bitch. I don't have a big enough vice so I held it shut by clamping my hands over it and having a friend screw the **** in the effective spring rate is 15.7psi or something like that now. White and maroon what ever those add up to be
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:26 AM   #272
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Everything went well today! Took a little longer than expected but that's okay. Pressure tested to 25psi and everything held tight. Fired up and idles about the same as it did. Will start and idle fine till you hit the throttle then it bogs down and dies.

Have to blip the throttle to get it to turn on too..
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:17 PM   #273
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great build keep working hard
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:32 PM   #274
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Thanks dude. I see you just joined the forums, dont hesitate to ask for help. I don't know much, but I can steer you to who does!
Levon
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:14 PM   #275
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Well.. Shes running well. MAP error was taken care of by Dom, nothing major or leak based, just minimum voltage. 200 miles down. 800 to go.

Hitting roughly 10-12 psi for break in boost. Hit 15 once... that was a tempting oops. Kinda like having sex the first time without a condom. You know you shouldn't but it just feels so good!!!
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