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Old 10-24-2012, 05:32 PM   #626
Lexophile
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Default Your Mechanic

Would you please recommend a few great mechanics in from Anchorage to the valley? Thank you!
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:46 PM   #627
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There are no wires the 2002 wrx is direct ignition. For plugs I would stick with the NGK iridium (OEM) and gap them a little tighter then stock if you are running over stock boost levels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexophile View Post
What are the best plugs and wires for a stock 2002 WRX?
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:48 PM   #628
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Check us out. We do everything on Subarus and other imports.

http://www.p3auto.com

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655 (text ok)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexophile View Post
Would you please recommend a few great mechanics in from Anchorage to the valley? Thank you!
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:30 PM   #629
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Default Inlet hose

I just upgraded my Legacy gt limited to an AMR CRX 500 turbo, with a up pipe , down pipe and cool air intake. I am waiting on a throttle body hose so i can mount my new tmic. My question is, with the mods i added how important is it to install an upgraded inlet hose?
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:32 PM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexophile View Post
Would you please recommend a few great mechanics in from Anchorage to the valley? Thank you!
I will recommend one, Seth with P3 works on my car and i have been nothing but happy with the work he has done.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:18 PM   #631
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Most of the time when you try to reuse the stock inlet hose it will rip at the end. The rubber is very thin and over time it absorbs the oil in the system and gets mushy. Anytime you can improve the flow at the turbo inlet you of course are helping the system. I doubt however with that turbo you "need" an inlet hose if your stock one is not leaking. It of course would not hurt one bit to put one on and it would also ensure the future integrity of the intake over time.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Man2nv View Post
I just upgraded my Legacy gt limited to an AMR CRX 500 turbo, with a up pipe , down pipe and cool air intake. I am waiting on a throttle body hose so i can mount my new tmic. My question is, with the mods i added how important is it to install an upgraded inlet hose?
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:14 PM   #632
USAF Harris
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I'm not sure if you guys covered this or not, but I'm at a loss and would love some advice.

I have an 08 WRX with a Cobb AP. It's the only mod I have. My question is, should I beef up my bolt ons before seeking a pro tune? Or should I get a pro tune that maxs out my stock potential and then add bolt ons? If I have a custom pro tune then haven't I rendered my acessport useless?

I ask because I'm considering a Cobb SF intake, MAF, and a boost controller. Please advise.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:46 PM   #633
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Don't bother with any other mods until you upgrade the downpipe off the turbo. This mod will allow you to safely run "stage 2" like tunes.

On your car the 3 port EBCS is only used if your having issues controlling boost now. I realize this sounds like a kind of blank statement but the fact is most of the time with a stock turbo the stock EBCS works just fine with a decent tune. I'm speaking in terms of your car make and model anyway.

DO NOT change the MAF or MAF tube diameter, this would be useless and would complicate and possibly cause some minor issues. This is only needed in the case of a heavily modified setup with an upgraded turbo. Your stock turbo will NEVER max out your stock MAF setup.

SF and other short ram intakes are neat and everything but your stock box is actually a very well designed part. Many people have run well past 325whp on the stock box. Before you upgrade consider the stock box is already a cold air intake, its already fairly short, and it flows just fine. You can easily just drop a K&N filter in the stock box for a little more flow and a filter than can be cleaned. There is close to no performance gain with the SF intake over stock. The only major difference would be sound, you will hear more of your intake with a short ram setup. One last thing, short rams that are not in a box or sectioned off from the engine bays are NOT cold air intakes; a short ram lands right above the exhaust manifold and the side of the motor. Its not a big deal up here in the cold air but I don't see much reason to bother with it.

So long to short....Save your money on the 3port EBCS ($125) and the cobb sf ($195), and get your self a nice Invidia divorced V3 downpipe for ($350 shipped). Then get a protune from us for $200 or so, or just use the cobb ap stage 2 tunes and you will see a world of difference.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655 text or phone!

Quote:
Originally Posted by USAF Harris View Post
I'm not sure if you guys covered this or not, but I'm at a loss and would love some advice.

I have an 08 WRX with a Cobb AP. It's the only mod I have. My question is, should I beef up my bolt ons before seeking a pro tune? Or should I get a pro tune that maxs out my stock potential and then add bolt ons? If I have a custom pro tune then haven't I rendered my acessport useless?

I ask because I'm considering a Cobb SF intake, MAF, and a boost controller. Please advise.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:46 PM   #634
USAF Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto

So long to short....Save your money on the 3port EBCS ($125) and the cobb sf ($195), and get your self a nice Invidia divorced V3 downpipe for ($350 shipped). Then get a protune from us for $200 or so, or just use the cobb ap stage 2 tunes and you will see a world of difference.
Noted. Thank you!

Last edited by USAF Harris; 11-10-2012 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:57 AM   #635
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I have a 2004 Wrx with the following: ej257 sti block, wrx heads, Atp Garret gt3076r turbo, deastchwerks 850cc injectors, 1 step colrder plugs, hallman pro mbc, turboxsfmic, perrin big maf intake, perrin 3" turbo inlet, forge recirculated bpv.

The car was tuned at Pure Tuning in Toledo, Oh. I have the receipt from the rpevious owner for it.

Issues:
-Stumbly idle, jumps and falls when cold, and when its warm it sounds like its cammed.
-Very stumbly and jolty when shifting between gears, bucks the whole car.
-Difficult to rev the engine, sounds/feels like it chokes fuel or something when revving and falls hard.
-Revs fall hard when coming to a stop, has actually stalled quite a few times.

Seems great in boost, boost is 20psi (has failsafe in the tune at 22psi). Previous owner said it made 351whp and 331trq, i ran a 12.7@109 as it sits.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:47 PM   #636
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It sounds like you have a potentially serious issue. Until you find out what is going on I would avoid loading the engine hard (boosting or WOT).

With any issue you should always start with the basics:

1. Vac or boost leaks, this is most common and would fit some of your description. You can build a simple boost leak check system from home depot parts. Do a search for ways to do this. Go around and check all of your hose clamps, FMIC systems are notorious for having loose clamps. Visually inspect the boost system, look for wet spots, look for holes in your FMIC.

2. Check to see if your BPV is leaking or open. You can do this a few different ways. An easy method would be to remove the recirc hose, block it with something like a D cell(the hose on the intake side) battery and then do the boost leak check.

3. Clean your MAF sensor.

4. Some logs at idle and during cruise could be helpful. Look for big fuel trims on both short and long trims of more than +-8%. A screen shot from learningview.exe would tell me a lot if you could post one of them, you will need a tactrix cable.

5. Other issues could be bad front O2 sensor, bad fuel pres regulator, fuel supply problem, bad injector, etc.

The best thing to do is start with the basics as I said. My money (only a wild guess) would be on an intake leak causing a vac or boost leak.

Feel free to bounce back what you find.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907.355.6655
www.p3auto.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by HonduhPowa View Post
I have a 2004 Wrx with the following: ej257 sti block, wrx heads, Atp Garret gt3076r turbo, deastchwerks 850cc injectors, 1 step colrder plugs, hallman pro mbc, turboxsfmic, perrin big maf intake, perrin 3" turbo inlet, forge recirculated bpv.

The car was tuned at Pure Tuning in Toledo, Oh. I have the receipt from the rpevious owner for it.

Issues:
-Stumbly idle, jumps and falls when cold, and when its warm it sounds like its cammed.
-Very stumbly and jolty when shifting between gears, bucks the whole car.
-Difficult to rev the engine, sounds/feels like it chokes fuel or something when revving and falls hard.
-Revs fall hard when coming to a stop, has actually stalled quite a few times.

Seems great in boost, boost is 20psi (has failsafe in the tune at 22psi). Previous owner said it made 351whp and 331trq, i ran a 12.7@109 as it sits.

Last edited by P3Auto; 11-16-2012 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:21 PM   #637
skimasterflex
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Default lowering springs

wheres some places that install lowering springs besides underground
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:41 PM   #638
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We do them here.

P3 Import Autowerks
907.355.6655
www.p3auto.com
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:45 PM   #639
RexxdRob
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with my lack of knowledge I am trying to find out this---- I bought a car that had a greddy manual boost controller. My question--- if I replace it with an oem one and the respective hoses/ restrictor pill (tell me if theres anything else i need) and then flash stage 1 with my cobb AP will I be safe? any help will help. thanks
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:25 PM   #640
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If you put everything back to stock then flash with an off the shelf tune like the cobb tunes then yes in theory you will be fine.

Make sure you set the hoses up exactly as stock. The boost pill on that car is on the turbo manifold side of the tee, the other side goes to the waste gate actuator and the top of the tee goes to the boost control solenoid in the car.

After you install it all and using the cobb ap you will be able to log or check boost levels to show you have done things right.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:51 PM   #641
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So I have a question for you guys. When tuning timing, is there a way figure out theoretically how much timing you want to run? I've never like the idea of adding timing till it knocks, then backing off.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:25 PM   #642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
If you put everything back to stock then flash with an off the shelf tune like the cobb tunes then yes in theory you will be fine.

Make sure you set the hoses up exactly as stock. The boost pill on that car is on the turbo manifold side of the tee, the other side goes to the waste gate actuator and the top of the tee goes to the boost control solenoid in the car.

After you install it all and using the cobb ap you will be able to log or check boost levels to show you have done things right.
thanks much appreciated.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:00 PM   #643
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There are some methods that involve formulas that require specific information about the engine, the fuel, air temp, etc. I don't know any tuners that try to figure it out that way, even so it would still be a guessing game. Fuel is not always rated the same and the internals of an engine can change over time specification wise. Then of course there is the whole complication that comes in with boosted motors and the fact they are effectively dynamic in spec depending on boost and charge temps. If you think about it the variables are so vast its pretty tough to try and "calculate" something.

I think most good tuners from experience have a decent idea of a good starting point that doesn't require large doses of guess work. Pushing a modern day Subaru for instance to a point of slight knock is not really harmful in short small amounts. The feedback knock correction does its job and does it fast.

The knock systems in place on these cars are very effective and even with a good tune conditions may still arise that will force the system to pull timing due to knock.

I can honestly say after tuning for so many years that I still get surprised by some unexplainable differences. Two seemingly identical setups that each respond different enough to require timing adjustment, they do pop up every once in a while. Cobb OTS maps for instance are conservative enough usually to account for these variations but most people will find if you log an OTS map your car maybe trimming back or forward timing automatically. This is all to fit the specifics of that car and its environment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
So I have a question for you guys. When tuning timing, is there a way figure out theoretically how much timing you want to run? I've never like the idea of adding timing till it knocks, then backing off.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:53 PM   #644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
There are some methods that involve formulas that require specific information about the engine, the fuel, air temp, etc. I don't know any tuners that try to figure it out that way, even so it would still be a guessing game. Fuel is not always rated the same and the internals of an engine can change over time specification wise. Then of course there is the whole complication that comes in with boosted motors and the fact they are effectively dynamic in spec depending on boost and charge temps. If you think about it the variables are so vast its pretty tough to try and "calculate" something.

I think most good tuners from experience have a decent idea of a good starting point that doesn't require large doses of guess work. Pushing a modern day Subaru for instance to a point of slight knock is not really harmful in short small amounts. The feedback knock correction does its job and does it fast.

The knock systems in place on these cars are very effective and even with a good tune conditions may still arise that will force the system to pull timing due to knock.

I can honestly say after tuning for so many years that I still get surprised by some unexplainable differences. Two seemingly identical setups that each respond different enough to require timing adjustment, they do pop up every once in a while. Cobb OTS maps for instance are conservative enough usually to account for these variations but most people will find if you log an OTS map your car maybe trimming back or forward timing automatically. This is all to fit the specifics of that car and its environment.
Is there a starting place for timing on built engines? At 22-23 psi I'm around 7 when boost hits at 4500 and running to 10 near a redline of 7500.

Previous tuner is ignoring most questions. I know everyone has an opinion. Just want to learn all I can instead of finding out I was wrong by losing a $20k engine. Car runs fine now that I fixed several issues with the tune. I haven't touched timing at all from what it was set at when I bought the car.

Thanks,
Sean
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:20 PM   #645
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If the numbers you posted are TOTAL ignition timing then they are quite low. Post up a log with Calc load, rpm, total ignition timing, and feed back knock correction.

Seth
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:43 PM   #646
05_wRex
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Thanks Seth. I am using a v1 aem ems. I have the stock ecu with access port that came with it, but I've gotten used to the aem now. Lol. Plus the guy told me they had issues with the stock ecu. I didn't really understand why since he didn't explain when I asked what issues, but oh well. Lol. I also asked for the power map they had for the car and got nothing, so I'm essentially doing it on my own now. Good thing I am competent. There's just not a lot of specific info on certain things like timing. The only thing I see are superficial numbers like "that guys running a billion degrees of advance, no wonder his engine blew."

That is total total timing advance. As far as I can tell. Previous logs show those numbers for total timing. The knock cal was set to pull 4.9* at 0.04 volts at redline. 4 thousandths. Not tenths of a volt. I see a recurring 0.39 volts around 5500 or so. I have some aem log files I can send over. I only have one internal log and its outdated now. lol. I set my current knock cal table with the following procedure. I set the boost to the waste gate spring and noted the knock sensor voltage. Then set the knock cal table just above those values and it hasn't pulled timing since. knock cal table is currently set to 0.19 volts at 2500 rpm up to 0.68 volts at 8000 rpm. What are your thoughts on the original knock table? And my current one?

Thanks,
Sean
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
If the numbers you posted are TOTAL ignition timing then they are quite low. Post up a log with Calc load, rpm, total ignition timing, and feed back knock correction.

Seth
P3 Import Autowerks 907-355-6655 text or call
the numbers he is posting most likely doesn't account for base timing of about 16 deg wouldn't you think?? those are probably the raw numbers of his advance table.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:17 PM   #648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
So I have a question for you guys. When tuning timing, is there a way figure out theoretically how much timing you want to run? I've never like the idea of adding timing till it knocks, then backing off.
just like seth said, when i was at school learning how to do this stuff that question was brought up numerous times and the instructor said the same, you could have this crazy algorithm of logic that proves a powerful timing mark but the next guy came in and his intercooler coupler it 1/4 inch longer and there is a funky barb in his manifold changing the air flow characteristic and then your algorithm is junk on that set up.....
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:23 PM   #649
05_wRex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post

the numbers he is posting most likely doesn't account for base timing of about 16 deg wouldn't you think?? those are probably the raw numbers of his advance table.
The same "ignition table" says 35* in the low rpm vacuum cruise area. If that helps.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:49 PM   #650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05_wRex View Post
That is total total timing advance.



Is that like go go gadget?

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