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Old 10-23-2012, 12:24 AM   #1
Saunders1986
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Default 2012 wrx, rod knock? piston slap??

hey people, im hoping you guys can shed some light on my situation.

my car is a 2012 wrx, thats running Torqued Performance stage 2, it has 20,000 Km, oil changed every 5000km with Shell Rotella T6 5W40.

car has never burned oil, and has never went low on oil, intercooler has no oil inside it as well.

car has ran like a champ, i drive aggressive at times, but i do not beat on it.

i decided this year to store my car for the winter months, as they use salt in my area, and it really takes a toll on cars. the car had been sitting for about 7 days, not started, today i decided to bring it to storage, when i started the car to move it... it made a knocking noise, that quickly disappeared, the noise last about 5-10 seconds. i was not an erratic knocking noise, but a consistent knock knock knock, kind of noise.

i immediately thought the worst, rod knock, but if it was in fact rod knock, it should not have went away, correct?

i know a lot of you will say, it has warranty, take it to the dealer, but i feel that since i decided to upgrade the car, then its my responsibility to fix it myself.

on the way to storage i pushed it a little, and it felt as good as it ever did, with no new noises.

thanks for any help you can give me!
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:26 AM   #2
MaddMax
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Piston slap. Normal.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:29 AM   #3
Rallycar331
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Sounds to me like a car that all the oil drain to the pan so it was not lubricated so it made a little noise toll the top end was lube up.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:31 AM   #4
Jdub.csu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallycar331
Sounds to me like a car that all the oil drain to the pan so it was not lubricated so it made a little noise toll the top end was lube up.
This. You should always prime the car after months of sitting.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:37 AM   #5
daseca07
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mine does this sometimes also maybe for like 3 seconds then goes away but it rarely does it
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:26 AM   #6
Saunders1986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu View Post
This. You should always prime the car after months of sitting.
i agree, but i didn't feel the need to prime a car that has only been sitting for a week.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:31 AM   #7
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How do you prime the car?
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:04 AM   #8
Saunders1986
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you pull the fuse for the ignition, and crank it over. it wont start, but it will prime the engine with fuel and oil
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:40 AM   #9
fr0st
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saunders1986 View Post
hey people, im hoping you guys can shed some light on my situation.

my car is a 2012 wrx, thats running Torqued Performance stage 2, it has 20,000 Km, oil changed every 5000km with Shell Rotella T6 5W40.

car has never burned oil, and has never went low on oil, intercooler has no oil inside it as well.

car has ran like a champ, i drive aggressive at times, but i do not beat on it.

i decided this year to store my car for the winter months, as they use salt in my area, and it really takes a toll on cars. the car had been sitting for about 7 days, not started, today i decided to bring it to storage, when i started the car to move it... it made a knocking noise, that quickly disappeared, the noise last about 5-10 seconds. i was not an erratic knocking noise, but a consistent knock knock knock, kind of noise.

i immediately thought the worst, rod knock, but if it was in fact rod knock, it should not have went away, correct?

i know a lot of you will say, it has warranty, take it to the dealer, but i feel that since i decided to upgrade the car, then its my responsibility to fix it myself.

on the way to storage i pushed it a little, and it felt as good as it ever did, with no new noises.

thanks for any help you can give me!

We get freaking cold here and even witht he block heater on, the first few seconds i get that noise too..as it warms up it goes away.

I always let the car warm up properly before driving it.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr0st

We get freaking cold here and even witht he block heater on, the first few seconds i get that noise too..as it warms up it goes away.

I always let the car warm up properly before driving it.
Shot in the dark but I am going to guess ur catless. You would be surprised how well u can hear the engine WORKING NORMALY with a catless tbe. I thought the worst for myself but after being checked came down to just being able to hear the motor and when the air pump is on it seems to amplify it even more.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzInYoMouth

Shot in the dark but I am going to guess ur catless. You would be surprised how well u can hear the engine WORKING NORMALY with a catless tbe. I thought the worst for myself but after being checked came down to just being able to hear the motor and when the air pump is on it seems to amplify it even more.
+1

When I first went stage 2 (catless too). 10k+ miles ago, I was unnerved by all the new noises I hadn't heard before. After logging for I while, I saw nothing abnormal.

Fret not, friend, enjoy your car!
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:58 PM   #12
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It's hard to explain in text, but piston slap and rod knock make similar noises, but you can tell the difference. If you very lightly rev the motor up and down, rod knock will change noise as the load on the engine changes (going up in revs then going back down). Piston slap will not change as you rev the motor up and down. That is to say that the loudness of the knocking will change if it's a rod knock, but not if it's piston slap.

You don't need to do much revving, maybe 1500RPM to 2000RPM tops.

Like I said, it's hard to explain in text. If you know a mechanic that has been around subarus for a while, they might be able to tell you.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:00 PM   #13
Dragonfueled
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You don't have to pull a fuse to prime these. Just hold the gas pedal to the floor before you start cranking and crank as Long as you want or until the oil light goes out. The computer goes into clear flood mode and shuts off the injectors until you let off the gas pedal. I do it if my car sits for a very long time. Once you let off the gas it will fire rite up

Also what oil filter are you using. Some aftermarket filters will allow the oil to drain back and leave the buttom end oil starved till the pump build pressure.

Last edited by Dragonfueled; 10-23-2012 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Added
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:01 PM   #14
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I would drive it for a couple days and see if the noise continues. If it doesn't u should b ok. I work for a Honda dealer in wi. The dealership also is a subaru dealership and the senior tech is always tearing apart engines for piston slap so it is common. From what it sounds like u should b ok tho.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saunders1986 View Post
you pull the fuse for the ignition, and crank it over. it wont start, but it will prime the engine with oil
JUST OIL......pulling the ign fuse disables the injectors
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:33 PM   #16
Saunders1986
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Thanks guys for all the help, uncle Scotty, I'm sorry I thought it primed for fuel as well, my bad!

PizzInYoMouth:
This is the first time I have had this issue, the downpipe is a catted downpipe from nameless, I did not notice any extra noise after going stage 2

Bacon117:
The noise was a knocking noise, i did rev it slightly (1500-2000rpm) the knocking did not get louder, but the knocking speed increased slightly with the rpm.

Dragonfueled:
the oil filter, is the Subaru blue filter.

hawks8989:
I really hope this issue was due to it sitting for a week. It's in storage now for 6 months, so when I do remove it, if it keeps having the issue I guess a built motor is in my future.

Last edited by Saunders1986; 10-23-2012 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:57 AM   #17
MaddMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawks8989 View Post
The dealership also is a subaru dealership and the senior tech is always tearing apart engines for piston slap so it is common. From what it sounds like u should b ok tho.
Piston slap in EJ25 is very common and very normal. My wife's old 98 LGT which we owned from 2000 through 2010 made a hell of a rachet when cold, especially in cold weather and it did it for 30 seconds to 5 minutes depending on how cold the motor was. It did this from 40K miles until 120K miles when sold. Never had one issue with that motor.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
You don't have to pull a fuse to prime these. Just hold the gas pedal to the floor before you start cranking and crank as Long as you want or until the oil light goes out. The computer goes into clear flood mode and shuts off the injectors until you let off the gas pedal. I do it if my car sits for a very long time. Once you let off the gas it will fire rite up

Also what oil filter are you using. Some aftermarket filters will allow the oil to drain back and leave the buttom end oil starved till the pump build pressure.

I was going to mention this as well. I did this when I did my last compression check (without disconnecting the fuel pump relay)

It worked just fine holding the accelerator pedal to the floor and cut the fuel as expected.
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:51 PM   #19
live2ridebykes
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Its possible the crank pulley, I thought for sure i had a rod knock once and I looked at the crank pulley and sure enough it was backing itself off its mount, the pulley had separated. I know what a rod knock sounds like because ive dealt with it before on my car. So to have heard it again made my heart stop, turned out to be a dang crank pulley. $100 fix
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:52 PM   #20
s2ktosti
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You're storing your suby for the winter? "SACRILEGE!"
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:37 PM   #21
Saunders1986
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Originally Posted by s2ktosti View Post
You're storing your suby for the winter? "SACRILEGE!"
haha its a normal thing in these parts, if i don't, my car will be rusted out within 4 years
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:50 AM   #22
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Yeah that sounds normal and when the air pump is on right after cold startup it makes the noise sound WAY worse. That's probably what you heard.
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