Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday September 20, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-24-2012, 10:46 AM   #26
banshee04
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179014
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle:
'06 WRX/STi
Built Motor/6766/E85

Default

Here's my new setup. I added a Walbro, Soldered the two pigtails together, then soldered 10ga wire to the positive and negative wires on the pigtail. The relay is hooked up the exact same, im just not using the factory plug pigtail that plugs into the pump. This way, it doesnt go from 10ga wire to factory wire, Its all 10ga. Since im running 2 pumps not, I didnt add another relay, I just bought a 60amp relay to replace the 30amp relay.


* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
banshee04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2012, 03:23 PM   #27
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default

so both pump's are triggered via fuel pump controller? what if one pump starts to die?
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2012, 08:06 PM   #28
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default

Another thing what type of metal are these sending unit's made out of? It just look's like normal steal. And IIRC you will need to have this nickel plated to endure E85 also and brass fitting's will need the plating done. Or the whole unit will corrode over time. Correct me if I'm wrong. But I'm 99% sure!.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 05:16 AM   #29
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default



It seem's like you can do it this way with 3 different options.

(1.) Do this but don't chassis ground the pump leave the OEM ground going threw the OEM harness.

(2.) You could run a whole new ground wire directly off the controller harness to the pump. To keep the current up as high as possible while still maintaining the fuel pump controller. That would eliminate the current drop (if any) caused by the harness on top the sending unit.

(3.) Instead of chassis ground on relay. It could be ran to FPC ground that originally went to the pump. This way the pump can have equal gauge wire on + and - side helping with current.

Witch one of these options would be best? I'm thinking Option (3.) though I'd prefer option (1.) being how lazy I can get!

I'm also thinking option (3.) would burn up the relay I'm not 100% but would the relay need that constant ground to operate correctly?

Last edited by spoolinsti05; 10-25-2012 at 05:39 AM.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 08:33 PM   #30
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default

Nooo BODyyy?
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 09:53 PM   #31
banshee04
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179014
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle:
'06 WRX/STi
Built Motor/6766/E85

Default

The way I have it, bypasses the FPC. Im not using the body wiring harness for the power. Im using the relay's power which is fed from the battery. Im also grounding the pumps to the body by a 10ga wire. I feel that is the best method as it is getting direct power by the same gauge wire and it shouldnt have any current drop since the wire size isnt tapering down like it would be if you just tapped into the factory harnes.
banshee04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 10:58 PM   #32
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee04 View Post
The way I have it, bypasses the FPC. Im not using the body wiring harness for the power. Im using the relay's power which is fed from the battery. Im also grounding the pumps to the body by a 10ga wire. I feel that is the best method as it is getting direct power by the same gauge wire and it shouldnt have any current drop since the wire size isnt tapering down like it would be if you just tapped into the factory harnes.
Well I'm going to try my third option and do a voltage drop test to see how it is. If it drop's anymore then .6v I'll ditch the FPC and run the pump 100% IGN on. I'll try to make a thread for this since the one's I've found are misleading mostly as far as maintaining the FPC. I see you picked 10ga the pump's are only like 16ga so your larger wire should help keep the drop to a minimum. Have you done a voltage drop test?
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2012, 11:25 PM   #33
banshee04
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179014
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle:
'06 WRX/STi
Built Motor/6766/E85

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Well I'm going to try my third option and do a voltage drop test to see how it is. If it drop's anymore then .6v I'll ditch the FPC and run the pump 100% IGN on. I'll try to make a thread for this since the one's I've found are misleading mostly as far as maintaining the FPC. I see you picked 10ga the pump's are only like 16ga so your larger wire should help keep the drop to a minimum. Have you done a voltage drop test?
I have not done one. I already put my pumps back in the tank and I really dont wanna take them back out. I guess I could atleast measure the current at the relay to get a estimate of what it is. Yeah, I figured the 10ga wire would handle both of the power and ground 16ga wires coming from the pigtails of the pumps.

Last edited by banshee04; 10-25-2012 at 11:55 PM.
banshee04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2012, 08:40 PM   #34
Bariga
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179846
Join Date: May 2008
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Renton, WA
Vehicle:
07 STi Limited
EFR 7670 TS

Default

this mod does not work on 2007 sti, the reply does not switch off when car is off, and +12 side on pump always has voltage
Bariga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2012, 01:07 AM   #35
spoolinsti05
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2005 TickingTimeBomb
Jr tuned TT Sleeved

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
this mod does not work on 2007 sti, the reply does not switch off when car is off, and +12 side on pump always has voltage
YOu wired something wrong or your pump is grounding out on the sending unit. Your ground shouldn't be completing the circuit unless the key is on.
spoolinsti05 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 12:20 AM   #36
Bariga
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179846
Join Date: May 2008
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Renton, WA
Vehicle:
07 STi Limited
EFR 7670 TS

Default

everything wired correctly
Bariga is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 12:32 AM   #37
UK-Wagon
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 232430
Join Date: Dec 2009
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: On the Left side
Vehicle:
555 XTi
1 AW & 1 CGM

Default

OP, wiring looks 10000000000x better than the original lol.

Only suggestion I would strongly make is that you install some kind of damper between the two pumps. Fast and cheap would be to get a large diameter (1/2 or bigger) fuel rated hose. cut about 4 inches in length of it, then cut it in half and slip a half between the two pumps, and put youre clamp back on.
UK-Wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 05:25 AM   #38
jockeygolfs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 260868
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Vehicle:
2011 STI
White

Default

Do you have to splice the wires inside the fuel tank? Why not do the splicing of the wires above the fuel cover. I know that leaves some of the older wire but is it safe to have the connecting being made in the tank?
jockeygolfs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 08:29 AM   #39
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan
10.9s @ 126mph

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeygolfs View Post
Do you have to splice the wires inside the fuel tank? Why not do the splicing of the wires above the fuel cover. I know that leaves some of the older wire but is it safe to have the connecting being made in the tank?
This is what was done in the first post. Leaving the small OEM wires going to the pump doesn't make much sense, because it's still there as a restriction. The newer post has the upgraded wiring run directly to the pump itself, I assume with a spade connector directly onto the pump.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 08:41 AM   #40
jockeygolfs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 260868
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Vehicle:
2011 STI
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben
This is what was done in the first post. Leaving the small OEM wires going to the pump doesn't make much sense, because it's still there as a restriction. The newer post has the upgraded wiring run directly to the pump itself, I assume with a spade connector directly onto the pump.
Are you in the middle of doing this mod too or researching? Maybe I should wait until the fully photographed and clearly described how-to by you is developed.
jockeygolfs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #41
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan
10.9s @ 126mph

Default

I have the stuff ready to do it, but I haven't done it because I don't quite need it yet. My pump is very close to being maxed out, so I may do it eventually, but right now I'm still getting enough fuel. So don't hold your breath for a write up.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2012, 10:22 AM   #42
jockeygolfs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 260868
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Vehicle:
2011 STI
White

Default

Yolo, my wiring kit comes in tomorrow so I think I'll press on.
jockeygolfs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 05:36 AM   #43
jockeygolfs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 260868
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Vehicle:
2011 STI
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee04
Here's my new setup. I added a Walbro, Soldered the two pigtails together, then soldered 10ga wire to the positive and negative wires on the pigtail. The relay is hooked up the exact same, im just not using the factory plug pigtail that plugs into the pump. This way, it doesnt go from 10ga wire to factory wire, Its all 10ga. Since im running 2 pumps not, I didnt add another relay, I just bought a 60amp relay to replace the 30amp relay.
From the pic it does not look like 10 ga wires right above the pump. Those look like the original wires on the pump pig tails then you soldered the two pumps together with the 10 ga wire. Is this correct?

Are the grommets you used on the plate aftermarket? Where did you get those?

Thank you
jockeygolfs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 11:02 AM   #44
banshee04
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 179014
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle:
'06 WRX/STi
Built Motor/6766/E85

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
OP, wiring looks 10000000000x better than the original lol.

Only suggestion I would strongly make is that you install some kind of damper between the two pumps. Fast and cheap would be to get a large diameter (1/2 or bigger) fuel rated hose. cut about 4 inches in length of it, then cut it in half and slip a half between the two pumps, and put youre clamp back on.
Thanks! Yeah, I was kinda thinking about something like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeygolfs View Post
Do you have to splice the wires inside the fuel tank? Why not do the splicing of the wires above the fuel cover. I know that leaves some of the older wire but is it safe to have the connecting being made in the tank?
Its completely safe. Nothing wrong with it at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeygolfs View Post
From the pic it does not look like 10 ga wires right above the pump. Those look like the original wires on the pump pig tails then you soldered the two pumps together with the 10 ga wire. Is this correct?

Are the grommets you used on the plate aftermarket? Where did you get those?

Thank you

Yes, that is correct. The pigtail wires are 16ga I believe. I soldered both of the positive and ground together then I took some 10ga wire and soldered them to the pigtail wires. I got the gromments from O'reilly's. They were in the Help section.
banshee04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2012, 01:53 PM   #45
jockeygolfs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 260868
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Vehicle:
2011 STI
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee04
Yes, that is correct. The pigtail wires are 16ga I believe. I soldered both of the positive and ground together then I took some 10ga wire and soldered them to the pigtail wires. I got the gromments from O'reilly's. They were in the Help section.
So is there a drop in power supply due to the pigtails being 16ga? I would assume not enough to be noticeable since it is such a short segment.
jockeygolfs is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2012, 07:13 PM   #46
Concillian
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan
Midnight Black

Default

Has anyone done this so that the relay is before the fuel pump controller?

like so:
----------
Cut the ACC 12v wire that goes into the fuel pump controller

30 - 10 AWG -- fused @ battery.
87 - to where the 12v was going into the fuel pump controller connector
86 - Use that factory 12v wire that power the fuel pump controller as the relay trigger wire
85 - 10 AWG ground wire

- Run 2 additional 10 AWG wire for pos and ground from the output of the fuel pump controller back to the fuel pump instead of the skinny factory wires.
----------

Now you should have lower voltage drop but maintain the fuel pump controller 33/66/100 switching. Seems like this may be good for cases like xluben, where they just need a small bit of extra headroom on a DW300 / aero340 size pump, but would prefer to keep the duty cycle changes from the stock controller.
Concillian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 09:29 AM   #47
derekdrew
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 261428
Join Date: Oct 2010
Default

Can anybody tell me the part number for the connector that plugs into the fuel pump controller???? Or, the part number of a harness that has this connector? I looked at my connector, and all it says is N 3 10862 and I can't figure out how to order more connectors. I need about 5 connectors. -- Derek Drew AT derek mail DOT com
derekdrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 06:37 PM   #48
rexworx
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 103232
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: EWG3071KelfordCams276/272
Vehicle:
MY05 GDA,MY04FXT6spd
2.5ltr,PPG,Front LSD,4.44

Default

If you ground direct to the chassis the relay circuit wont open back up till 12v it cut. pump controller ground is what to want. took me a while and opening up a relay that was set up on the car to figure out what was actually going on...

Ian @ Performance Auto Solutions
rexworx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #49
punchjamesarnol
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 284835
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: S.D.
Vehicle:
2014 Hyundai Equus
White Pearl Mica

Default

I just picked everything up from O'reilys... Anybody got pics of the rewire for 08+ STI's? I'm trying to figure out which is what from the stock harness so I can hook it up to the relay. The wiring diagram above for the relay seems simple enough, I just need to know what the stock harness wires are for the GR so I can get 'er done.

Last edited by punchjamesarnol; 12-23-2012 at 08:54 PM.
punchjamesarnol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2012, 08:26 PM   #50
punchjamesarnol
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 284835
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: S.D.
Vehicle:
2014 Hyundai Equus
White Pearl Mica

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
If you ground direct to the chassis the relay circuit wont open back up till 12v it cut. pump controller ground is what to want. took me a while and opening up a relay that was set up on the car to figure out what was actually going on...

Ian @ Performance Auto Solutions

I woke up this morning to a dead battery using a ground from the chassis to the relay. So you mean to tell me that I need to run the ground from the FPC to the pump and the relay? So NO chassis ground?

Wierd....Funny thing, I wired it like the diagram and my gas gauge was reading half of what it really was. I thought I bent the float arm while re-stallation of the bucket because when I filled up yesterday, the gauge only read half full. Anyhow... I hope to get this figured out soon.
punchjamesarnol is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.