Is it absolutely necessary to remove TMIC to install boost gauge?

sc00ter · 10-25-2012, 01:51 PM

I've purchased an SMY dual gauge bezel as well as a Prosport Electronic Boost gauge. and I am just about ready to go through the install, which seems pretty straight forward.

I've read about 10 threads and watched a few Youtube videos on it. The wiring and tapping the T fitting into the vac line of the BPV shouldn't prove too difficult.

However, the one part of this whole process that is making me dread the install is the removal of the TMIC. I understand that getting the TMIC to fit snug back onto the turbo/intake manifold can be a real bitch without a second set of hands. Removing the TMIC to feed a single wire through the grommet seems ridiculous to me. I'm also nervous because I was previously plagued with a couple boost leaks which have since been fixed. The last thing I want to do is create another leak during this process.

Anyway, my question here is have any of you with '02-'07 WRX/STI's successfully fed the wire through the grommet behind the TMIC without removing the TMIC? Is it easily accessible or do I have to just suck it up and remove the TMIC?

If I do end up having to remove the TMIC, can I reuse the BPV gasket again or is it necessary for me to buy a new one?

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RoadKillDMD · 10-25-2012, 01:58 PM

Try reaching your arm back there and tell us of there's enough room to work around. I know I would have to take it off in my GR, I'm not sure exactly where the gromit is in comparison to the GD, but if it is in roughly the same place, it would be a major PITA to work back there. It would be easier to take it off. A top mount should only take a few minutes to take off and put back on. It will free up a ton of space in that area. I would save yourself the headache and just remove it. You can reuse the bpv gasket too.

Mr Wrex · 10-25-2012, 02:03 PM

Check the BPV gasket for any damage before re-using it. Definitely remove the TMIC instead of trying to play operation (aka the board game) to get the guage set up. If you're worried about leaks, just spray some hairspray on the inside of the hose ends before putting them back on to really seal it up.

sc00by4life · 10-25-2012, 02:07 PM

it takes all of about 5 minutes to remove a TMIC.

i've reused the BPV gasket several times, but if you're worred just pick up a new one? They are less than $5!

sc00ter · 10-25-2012, 02:24 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Yeah, I know on the '08+ WRX/STI you have to remove the TMIC to reach the grommet due to the location of the grommet and the redesign of the TMIC. I am still hoping this isn't the case for my year but I guess I'll just plan on removing the TMIC unless I see tonight that the grommet is manageable without removing it.

Good idea with the hairspray. I'll do that when re installing for sure. And the BPV gasket is only 4 months old so it should be alright. I'll definitely inspect it before re installing though.

leecea · 10-25-2012, 04:19 PM

I don't think I removed mine, but not positive. I have removed the TMIC a few times and I'd read it was the stock plastic y-pipe that caused it to be a PITA, so I replaced that with a silicon y-pipe and never had an issue.

hudsonvalleybugeye · 10-25-2012, 06:06 PM

Feeding/reaching the vacuum line through the fire wall is not the problem. The connection to the bpv hose will be much easier to "handle" with the intercooler off. I like to electrical tape the line to a straightened out metal coat hanger. (old school mobile audio trick).you must be very careful and do not force the hanger anywhere it does not want to go and work in increments, going from under the dash to under the hood several times until you can safely pull the coat hanger through, success! Good luck!

sc00ter · 10-26-2012, 12:26 AM

Since I went with the electrical gauge I will just be feeding the electical wire through the firewall. But yeah, I took a look and it will definitely be easier with the TMIC off so I'll be doing that.

Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely go with the coat hanger to feed the wire through.

tnhockey · 10-26-2012, 12:36 AM

i didnt have to remove the tmic to put in mine. it was pretty straight forward. fed the vac line through the firewall with a coat hanger and then wired it using a fuse tap.

JMSok8 · 10-26-2012, 04:36 AM

Its really not hard to remove the top mount. It takes me about a minute. You just have to wiggle it the right way and your golden. The best gromet to use is directly behind the top mount.

HeroCrank · 10-26-2012, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sc00ter

I've purchased an SMY dual gauge bezel as well as a Prosport Electronic Boost gauge. and I am just about ready to go through the install, which seems pretty straight forward.

I've read about 10 threads and watched a few Youtube videos on it. The wiring and tapping the T fitting into the vac line of the BPV shouldn't prove too difficult.

However, the one part of this whole process that is making me dread the install is the removal of the TMIC. I understand that getting the TMIC to fit snug back onto the turbo/intake manifold can be a real bitch without a second set of hands. Removing the TMIC to feed a single wire through the grommet seems ridiculous to me. I'm also nervous because I was previously plagued with a couple boost leaks which have since been fixed. The last thing I want to do is create another leak during this process.

Anyway, my question here is have any of you with '02-'07 WRX/STI's successfully fed the wire through the grommet behind the TMIC without removing the TMIC? Is it easily accessible or do I have to just suck it up and remove the TMIC?

If I do end up having to remove the TMIC, can I reuse the BPV gasket again or is it necessary for me to buy a new one?

Just remove the tmic. Its not hard and it will make your life so much easier. Some people use different points to find their way around the firewall, but doing the recommended one makes the most sense. And FYI...you will spend more time reading all these responses and typing back to us over thinking this install than the time it takes to removing and reinstalling your tmic.

masterforce · 10-26-2012, 09:39 AM

I didnt even touch the TMIC. I just "T"d the vac line by the BPV. Rest of wires went through the drivers fender then down by the ECU with fuse taps. I did use a coat hanger thought and a buddy.

tmcgraw · 10-26-2012, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masterforce

I didnt even touch the TMIC. I just "T"d the vac line by the BPV. Rest of wires went through the drivers fender then down by the ECU with fuse taps. I did use a coat hanger thought and a buddy.

Exactly what I did, minus the buddy

sc00ter · 10-26-2012, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeroCrank

...you will spend more time reading all these responses and typing back to us over thinking this install than the time it takes to removing and reinstalling your tmic.

So true. I actually got a free day off today so I'm gonna take advantage of it by tackling this install. Time to get to work!

sc00ter · 10-26-2012, 08:05 PM

Liars! Removing the TMIC took all of 2 minutes. However, re-installing it was a PITA. 20 minutes, two bloody hands, and about 5 "WTF!!" shouts later, I finally got the intercooler aligned perfectly with the turbo/intake manifold.

But it definitely was necessary, getting to that grommet and pulling the vac line through with the TMIC installed would have been a nightmare.

The wiring was pretty easy since I went the route of using "add-a-circuits" to add the wires into the appropriate fuse slots.

After manually calibrating the gauge for my elevation (5200ft) I took a drive to test it and it reads spot on to my Accessport.

Overall I'm very pleased. I can't believe I've gone this long without a dedicated boost gauge.

*Lights up green with the lights on and white with the lights off*

mpristave · 10-27-2012, 03:17 AM

Quote:

it takes all of about 5 minutes to remove a TMIC.

/thread

HeroCrank · 10-27-2012, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sc00ter

Liars! Removing the TMIC took all of 2 minutes. However, re-installing it was a PITA. 20 minutes, two bloody hands, and about 5 "WTF!!" shouts later, I finally got the intercooler aligned perfectly with the turbo/intake manifold.

But it definitely was necessary, getting to that grommet and pulling the vac line through with the TMIC installed would have been a nightmare.

The wiring was pretty easy since I went the route of using "add-a-circuits" to add the wires into the appropriate fuse slots.

After manually calibrating the gauge for my elevation (5200ft) I took a drive to test it and it reads spot on to my Accessport.

Overall I'm very pleased. I can't believe I've gone this long without a dedicated boost gauge.

*Lights up green with the lights on and white with the lights off*

Nice job on the install, getting the Tmic back on sometimes can take a bit, but the more you do it, the easier it becomes. Glad it all worked out

Mr Wrex · 10-27-2012, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sc00ter

Liars! Removing the TMIC took all of 2 minutes. However, re-installing it was a PITA. 20 minutes, two bloody hands, and about 5 "WTF!!" shouts later, I finally got the intercooler aligned perfectly with the turbo/intake manifold.

But it definitely was necessary, getting to that grommet and pulling the vac line through with the TMIC installed would have been a nightmare.

The wiring was pretty easy since I went the route of using "add-a-circuits" to add the wires into the appropriate fuse slots.

After manually calibrating the gauge for my elevation (5200ft) I took a drive to test it and it reads spot on to my Accessport.

Overall I'm very pleased. I can't believe I've gone this long without a dedicated boost gauge.

*Lights up green with the lights on and white with the lights off*

Lookin slick man

Did you use hairspray when putting the TMIC back on? Any leaks?

colin1234567 · 10-27-2012, 01:19 PM

I've never removed a TMIC while installing a boost gauge, I've done two different GDs as well.

sc00ter · 10-28-2012, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeroCrank

Nice job on the install, getting the Tmic back on sometimes can take a bit, but the more you do it, the easier it becomes. Glad it all worked out

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Wrex

Lookin slick man

Did you use hairspray when putting the TMIC back on? Any leaks?

Thanks! I didn't bother with the hairspray but there are no leaks. I drove quite a bit this weekend and I'm hitting target psi with no issues. The gauge is also reading right on par with the Accessport as well.

I wanted to mention that I also went with fuse taps instead of splicing into the clock harness. I think that made the install easier/cleaner as well.

I'm very happy with the end result.

Quote:

Originally Posted by colin1234567

I've never removed a TMIC while installing a boost gauge, I've done two different GDs as well.

Yeah, it could be done without removing the TMIC but I think it would be quite a bit more difficult to fish the clothes hanger through the grommet to pull the vac line through. If I had to do it again I think I'd still remove the TMIC.

thisisntjared · 11-15-2012, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sc00by4life

it takes all of about 5 minutes to remove a TMIC.

if you dont have the silicone hoses it can take a very long time to put back on though...

10-25-2012, 01:51 PM	#1
sc00ter Scooby Specialist Member#: 117767 Join Date: Jun 2006 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Denver, CO Vehicle: 2007 WRX Limited OBP - VF48	Is it absolutely necessary to remove TMIC to install boost gauge? I've purchased an SMY dual gauge bezel as well as a Prosport Electronic Boost gauge. and I am just about ready to go through the install, which seems pretty straight forward. I've read about 10 threads and watched a few Youtube videos on it. The wiring and tapping the T fitting into the vac line of the BPV shouldn't prove too difficult. However, the one part of this whole process that is making me dread the install is the removal of the TMIC. I understand that getting the TMIC to fit snug back onto the turbo/intake manifold can be a real bitch without a second set of hands. Removing the TMIC to feed a single wire through the grommet seems ridiculous to me. I'm also nervous because I was previously plagued with a couple boost leaks which have since been fixed. The last thing I want to do is create another leak during this process. Anyway, my question here is have any of you with '02-'07 WRX/STI's successfully fed the wire through the grommet behind the TMIC without removing the TMIC? Is it easily accessible or do I have to just suck it up and remove the TMIC? If I do end up having to remove the TMIC, can I reuse the BPV gasket again or is it necessary for me to buy a new one? * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

10-25-2012, 01:58 PM	#2
RoadKillDMD Scooby Specialist Member#: 284792 Join Date: Jun 2011 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Vanilla Valley, CO Vehicle: 2011 STI Plasma Blue Pearl	Try reaching your arm back there and tell us of there's enough room to work around. I know I would have to take it off in my GR, I'm not sure exactly where the gromit is in comparison to the GD, but if it is in roughly the same place, it would be a major PITA to work back there. It would be easier to take it off. A top mount should only take a few minutes to take off and put back on. It will free up a ton of space in that area. I would save yourself the headache and just remove it. You can reuse the bpv gasket too. Last edited by RoadKillDMD; 10-25-2012 at 02:04 PM.

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10-25-2012, 02:03 PM	#3
Mr Wrex Scooby Specialist Member#: 332887 Join Date: Sep 2012 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Vehicle: 2012 WRX stage 2+ DGM (sedan)	Check the BPV gasket for any damage before re-using it. Definitely remove the TMIC instead of trying to play operation (aka the board game) to get the guage set up. If you're worried about leaks, just spray some hairspray on the inside of the hose ends before putting them back on to really seal it up.

10-25-2012, 02:07 PM	#4
sc00by4life Scooby Guru Member#: 97135 Join Date: Sep 2005 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Bothell	it takes all of about 5 minutes to remove a TMIC. i've reused the BPV gasket several times, but if you're worred just pick up a new one? They are less than $5!

10-25-2012, 02:24 PM	#5
sc00ter Scooby Specialist Member#: 117767 Join Date: Jun 2006 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Denver, CO Vehicle: 2007 WRX Limited OBP - VF48	Thanks for the feedback guys. Yeah, I know on the '08+ WRX/STI you have to remove the TMIC to reach the grommet due to the location of the grommet and the redesign of the TMIC. I am still hoping this isn't the case for my year but I guess I'll just plan on removing the TMIC unless I see tonight that the grommet is manageable without removing it. Good idea with the hairspray. I'll do that when re installing for sure. And the BPV gasket is only 4 months old so it should be alright. I'll definitely inspect it before re installing though.

10-25-2012, 04:19 PM	#6
leecea Scooby Guru Member#: 37359 Join Date: May 2003 Vehicle: 2003 WRX	I don't think I removed mine, but not positive. I have removed the TMIC a few times and I'd read it was the stock plastic y-pipe that caused it to be a PITA, so I replaced that with a silicon y-pipe and never had an issue.

10-25-2012, 06:06 PM	#7
hudsonvalleybugeye Scooby Specialist Member#: 295068 Join Date: Sep 2011 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Rhinebeck, NY Vehicle: 2003 wrx Sedona Red Pearl	Feeding/reaching the vacuum line through the fire wall is not the problem. The connection to the bpv hose will be much easier to "handle" with the intercooler off. I like to electrical tape the line to a straightened out metal coat hanger. (old school mobile audio trick).you must be very careful and do not force the hanger anywhere it does not want to go and work in increments, going from under the dash to under the hood several times until you can safely pull the coat hanger through, success! Good luck!

10-26-2012, 12:26 AM	#8
sc00ter Scooby Specialist Member#: 117767 Join Date: Jun 2006 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Denver, CO Vehicle: 2007 WRX Limited OBP - VF48	Since I went with the electrical gauge I will just be feeding the electical wire through the firewall. But yeah, I took a look and it will definitely be easier with the TMIC off so I'll be doing that. Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely go with the coat hanger to feed the wire through.

10-26-2012, 12:36 AM	#9
tnhockey Scooby Newbie Member#: 218013 Join Date: Jul 2009 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Arlington Heights, IL Vehicle: 2006 WRX OBP	i didnt have to remove the tmic to put in mine. it was pretty straight forward. fed the vac line through the firewall with a coat hanger and then wired it using a fuse tap.

10-26-2012, 04:36 AM	#10
JMSok8 Scooby Newbie Member#: 309967 Join Date: Feb 2012 Chapter/Region: BAIC Location: Santa Cruz, CA Vehicle: 2003 WRX PSM vf34	Its really not hard to remove the top mount. It takes me about a minute. You just have to wiggle it the right way and your golden. The best gromet to use is directly behind the top mount.

10-26-2012, 09:39 AM	#12
masterforce NASIOC Supporter Member#: 221580 Join Date: Aug 2009 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Omaha, NE Vehicle: 2011 WRX STI Satin White Pearl	I didnt even touch the TMIC. I just "T"d the vac line by the BPV. Rest of wires went through the drivers fender then down by the ECU with fuse taps. I did use a coat hanger thought and a buddy.

10-26-2012, 08:05 PM	#15
sc00ter Scooby Specialist Member#: 117767 Join Date: Jun 2006 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Denver, CO Vehicle: 2007 WRX Limited OBP - VF48	Liars! Removing the TMIC took all of 2 minutes. However, re-installing it was a PITA. 20 minutes, two bloody hands, and about 5 "WTF!!" shouts later, I finally got the intercooler aligned perfectly with the turbo/intake manifold. But it definitely was necessary, getting to that grommet and pulling the vac line through with the TMIC installed would have been a nightmare. The wiring was pretty easy since I went the route of using "add-a-circuits" to add the wires into the appropriate fuse slots. After manually calibrating the gauge for my elevation (5200ft) I took a drive to test it and it reads spot on to my Accessport. Overall I'm very pleased. I can't believe I've gone this long without a dedicated boost gauge. Lights up green with the lights on and white with the lights off

10-27-2012, 01:19 PM	#19
colin1234567 Scooby Specialist Member#: 212639 Join Date: May 2009 Chapter/Region: NESIC Vehicle: WRX= 13/SWP/GR '88 735il, '90 Miata	I've never removed a TMIC while installing a boost gauge, I've done two different GDs as well.