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Old 10-06-2012, 06:35 PM   #51
svxninja
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Also how did you get the battery wire from the passenger side to the battery for the ballast
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:07 PM   #52
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^
TRS harness should be long enough for all that. Maybe a picture is in order; I'm not picturing the same scenario.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:36 PM   #53
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It is not I checked this morning to see if the battery wire from the passenger is long enough and it is not. Any Ideas?

Last edited by svxninja; 10-07-2012 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:37 PM   #54
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Nevermind I fixed it all out I just have to aim, add shrouds and re seal. I have the hubsentric rings for the shrouds, did you just put some sealant on those to get them to stay to the reflector bowl?

Last edited by svxninja; 10-07-2012 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:35 AM   #55
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I don't use a shroud in the common retrofit sense; mine don't touch the projectors at all and are attached to the housing. I've read both positive and negative results of using the butyl rubber to secure hubcentric ring + shroud on the projectors. Maybe JB Weld is a safer idea.

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Old 10-08-2012, 11:44 AM   #56
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More glue options here:
AutoGoop
Silicone II
(generic) epoxy

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...-eye-on-my-car
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:30 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satrya
I don't use a shroud in the common retrofit sense; mine don't touch the projectors at all and are attached to the housing. I've read both positive and negative results of using the butyl rubber to secure hubcentric ring + shroud on the projectors. Maybe JB Weld is a safer idea.
I actually didn't use any adhesive on the shrouds to stick them to the projectors. They sort of clip in when you use the shroud centric rings and they hold surprisingly well. You just need to make sure they're pressed on all the way. If you want to be super safe, you can epoxy them, but you'll never get them off the projectors again.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:42 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolant View Post
I actually didn't use any adhesive on the shrouds to stick them to the projectors. They sort of clip in when you use the shroud centric rings and they hold surprisingly well. You just need to make sure they're pressed on all the way. If you want to be super safe, you can epoxy them, but you'll never get them off the projectors again.
That's what I thought, but the very few posts in HIDP about "sad eyes" seem to suggest that a small dab of epoxy is not a bad insurance. Plus one case seem to be with the hub centric ring melting (a potential manufacturing defect / plastic composition that is not capable of holding up to the heat).
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:42 PM   #59
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Hey nolant, First off, nice writeup.

Sorry for he off topic question. Which lip do you have? Looks nice!
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:08 AM   #60
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I used bmw e46 projectors (~2.5") with e55 shrouds (3") on my bugeye. I ended up making my own shroud centric rings using the e46 shrouds, bondo and paint. The ring I made using the BMW shroud snapped into the lens housing, bueno. There was no mecanical connection for the shroud centric ring to the e55 shroud, no bueno, so I used a few dabs of JB weld and its help up fine for a few years.

damn, thats a huge image

Last edited by alx8283; 10-09-2012 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.Linchpin View Post
Hey nolant, First off, nice writeup.

Sorry for he off topic question. Which lip do you have? Looks nice!
Thanks. It's an ebay replica (Bayson R is the vendor). It's a V-Limited 06-07 lip, trimmed slightly to fit the 02 wagon. It's under $100, and I don't feel bad if it scrapes a little...
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #62
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This thread is awesome. Read through all of the main DIY and only really have one question:

After all of this, are you still able to aim using the stock alignment screws? I have read multiples of these DIY Retrofit guides and some are able to use the screws and some are not.

Just bought a bugeye WRX Wagon, after owning a 2004 WRX Wagon. Stoked.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:15 PM   #63
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^ I'm wondering the same thing. I'm hoping to do this mod soon, the PO installed some crappy eBay headlights. At least the bezels are black already haha
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:26 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugeyedBandit View Post
^ I'm wondering the same thing. I'm hoping to do this mod soon, the PO installed some crappy eBay headlights. At least the bezels are black already haha
If the retrofitted projectors (low only or biX) are mounted directly on an existing halogen reflector, then the original pitch and yaw adjustments, if available, will still work.

One way is via the threaded back of the projector (only some projectors have this, such as the Morimoto Mini H1 and the Mini D2S), then barring from having any unnecessary means of sealing the back of the headlights. Loosening the threaded nut allows roll adjustment (i.e. how horizontal the cutoff line is on the wall ahead).


Another way is mounting the flange of the retrofitted projector onto a piece of the donor housing that connects to the existing adjusting mechanism. Most adjustment mechanism do not include roll, and may only allow pitch adjustment. So, proper pre alignment needs to be done prior to sealing the headlights.

For the JDM housing for example, the quick way is to sacrifice the oem projector headlight, using the reflector bowl part as the mounting bracket for the new projector. Frederik has a thread showing a more complicated approach that opens up your choices for bigger projectors than the Minis.

Or, if the adjustment mechanism is simple enough, you can mount the flange of the new projector onto those adjustment mechanisms.



There are other methods as well.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:10 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugeyedBandit
^ I'm wondering the same thing. I'm hoping to do this mod soon, the PO installed some crappy eBay headlights. At least the bezels are black already haha
Hey sorry for the slow response.

Yes, the stock adjustment screws still adjust vertical and horizontal orientation. The reason for this is that the projector is mounted directly to the reflector bowl, which can move independently of the housing. In some instances, people have no choice but to mount the projector to a fixed part of the housing, thus losing the capability for adjustment.

Using aircraft terms, you retain your Pitch (vertical) and Yaw (horizontal) adjustments with this mod. However, being that these are projectors with a defined cutoff line, your Roll (rotational) adjustment becomes the biggest challenge to get right. It's best to do your aiming while the lens is still off. Get the Pitch and Yaw where you think it's pretty close, then pay special attention to the Roll adjustment since you wont have control over this parameter once the lights are closed up. Essentially, get the Roll adjustment just right, and then crank down the locknut in the back, while holding the projector in place.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:10 PM   #66
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heads up. anyone who buys from the retrofit source.!!!!! if you hare having problems with the highbeams. just call them. they actually offer a free repin for the negative ground systems but if you didnt get it. they can give you the info via the phone. very helpful. only have to swap two wires. i just called them as i just recieved my kit and read that everyone was having problems.
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:12 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxninja View Post
It is not I checked this morning to see if the battery wire from the passenger is long enough and it is not. Any Ideas?
extend it via some wire and solder and shrink wrap. or sand of a small spot of paint around an existing bolt and put it there. ground is a ground as long as its clean. battery beign first choice of course
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:07 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemk3 View Post
extend it via some wire and solder and shrink wrap. or sand of a small spot of paint around an existing bolt and put it there. ground is a ground as long as its clean. battery beign first choice of course
I ended up using a bolt near the passenger side fender for the ground on that side. Works fine and the wires are pretty concealed.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:26 AM   #69
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I'm going to jump on the retrofit wagon, Cyber Monday deal, 20% off, good time to buy.
Thanks for the inspiration, can't wait.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:50 PM   #70
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sick write-up. Props to the OP! Going to do these soon.

Does using epoxy when seating the projector shrouds give any hazing seen when commonly using the same material to mate the outer lens surfaces back together?
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:38 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenament View Post
sick write-up. Props to the OP! Going to do these soon.

Does using epoxy when seating the projector shrouds give any hazing seen when commonly using the same material to mate the outer lens surfaces back together?
The material for resealing the outer lens are either butyl rubber (preferred) or RTV silicone. Butyl rubber do not outgass (at least I don't see an issue and this is how retrofitters have stated in HID Planet), but silicone may or may not outgass, depending on which one you get.

Both however, should remain somewhat pliant, unlike epoxies used to secure the base of the projector to an oem reflector assembly. Epoxies vary in composition, so I don't think there's a universal answer in terms of outgassing. JB Weld seem to be a popular material for seating the projector.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:18 AM   #72
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Just did this retrofit, and this DIY was really helpful, thanks! To the person that said they were able to install this kit without trimming the back of the reflector bowl, I'd like to see a picture lol. There was no way I could get the bulb holder bracket on at all.

Also, I still need to adjust the yaw of the projectors, but has anyone else with this kit noticed that the foreground illumination seems lacking? Maybe I just need to adjust more.

Unmodified reflector housings with the Mini H1s mounted:


The amount I had to take off:



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Old 12-02-2012, 08:31 AM   #73
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You do have some rotational adjustment to do! Interesting how you somehow have the same angle of rotation on both sides, just mirrored haha

Regarding foreground, having less is actually better for your vision so I'd rather not have too much.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:08 PM   #74
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^ Yeah, looks like I'll have to pull the headlights again
That's interesting, I'll have to do some reading on lighting
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:47 PM   #75
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With the Minis, can you adjust the rotational alignment without baking the headlights again? Like by the access hole in the back ? If you can do that it would be much less of a pain

Regarding the foreground vs distance vision, that is because the stronger the foreground light, the more your pupils contract to block light coming in, making your vision less sensitive to the light in the distance. Basically, to the extreme you get blinded by your own light and you see less of what is far.
And when there is less foreground light, you pupils get dilated to become more sensitive and try and grab as much information as possible. That makes you see more of what is far and less illuminated.
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