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Old 11-10-2012, 05:51 PM   #1
Seat_R
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Default WRX cobb stage 2 boost problems.

Hello from mexico!!!

The car: wrx 2009

Mods:
Cobb stage 2 93 oct
Ap cai
Qtp cutout
Aem wai
Equal headers


My boost in cobb stage 2 always is about 18-19 psi, the car feels great, but yesterday I updated the ap cobb and reloaded the stage 2....

Since yesterday my boost levels have been going down.... Yesterday i had 17 psi, today in the morning 16 and now i don't reach more than 14.5....

I took a log and the map is asking for 18.2 psi but the car does not hit more tha 14.5

Leak test is done o no leaks

I took off the Waste gate line (and the boost reach 16 psi) my thougths were that te wga is broken or something similar.... I put a little spring to se if that helps to help and nothing happens.... 14.5 psi.

Sorry for my bad english

And thanks for your help!!!
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:52 PM   #2
RoadKillDMD
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Are you running Cobb stage 2 off the shelf? Look back at the map notes, some of the mods you have aren't meant to be run with the Cobb map. You need a professional tune. Find a local tuner and schedule an.appointment ASAP. You really shouldn't run those mods, you risk causing a lot of damage to your engine... That is if something isn't already effed!
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:02 PM   #3
Seat_R
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Thanks for the advise...... I'have been runing that map for about 1 year and more and no problems so far....

Just that boost issue :@

Anyone?
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:41 PM   #4
RoadKillDMD
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Let me restate...

THE COBB MAP DOES NOT SUPPORT YOUR MODIFICATIONS

The reason you are having problems is because your ECU is freaking the fudge out. The MAF scaling of your CAI is different then the parameters set on the Cobb map. That's not to mention your WAI and ELH (which both need to be CUSTOM tuned for).

Just because you've been running this setup for a year, that doesn't mean it's been running safely... You need a professional tune, then all of your problems will be solved. Trust me...
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:46 PM   #5
drewvdw
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^^^This.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:00 PM   #6
Seat_R
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By the way.... I also tryed with wai off, closed cutout and just the cai (stage 2 aem). And nothing changed.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:07 PM   #7
RoadKillDMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seat_R
By the way.... I also tryed with wai off, closed cutout and just the cai (stage 2 aem). And nothing changed.
Wait.... Do you have an *aftermarket* downpipe? It's not mentioned in your mods list ^^^
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:15 PM   #8
drewvdw
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The Stage 2+ AEM map is for the AEM intake, not the AP one you have. They may or may not be the same size. You are just asking to blow up your engine. If you don't have an aftermarket downpipe...Wow. Just wow...
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:16 PM   #9
Seat_R
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Yes I do
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:46 PM   #10
RoadKillDMD
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Okay, like drew said ^^ the Cobb map you are running is SPECIFICALLY for the AEM intake and a DP/TBE. Nothing more. The MAF scaling for your CAI is different than the parameters set on your map. Your headers have a different flow rate and pattern to the turbo which optimizes spool time, which your map is not adjusted for. Your QTP cutout is okay, you don't need to do anything about that.

We cannot stress enough how much you NEED a custome tune. There is no other way around it.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:26 PM   #11
Seat_R
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1 year with Boost ok, same mods, same Map... Yesterday less boost, today even less boost... A wrong Map would cause issues from day 1.. Not 1 year later,.. Done logs before and no knock, no timmig retard, fuel ok... Issue just came out...
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #12
RoadKillDMD
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Why even ask for help if you aren't going to listen?

I'm going to say once more, you need a custom tune. Period. There isn't anyone here that will say differently (I hope )
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:14 PM   #13
drewvdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seat_R View Post
1 year with Boost ok, same mods, same Map... Yesterday less boost, today even less boost... A wrong Map would cause issues from day 1.. Not 1 year later,.. Done logs before and no knock, no timmig retard, fuel ok... Issue just came out...
Oh, I don't know, maybe you already did the damage to your motor by having the wrong tune?

Listen. You WILL blow your car up without a proper tune. You WILL continue to have problems until it does so. If you're too stupid to take advice from people who know what they're talking about, then why the **** would you post the question?!?! Get a professional tune. IF there is an issue outside of the tune, they'll be able to figure it out. Us attempting to diagnose your issue over the internet won't likely work. GOT IT?
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:29 AM   #14
tunertype
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If he can't hit target boost and he's only getting 16psi with the wastegate unplugged(should be getting over 20). It is obviously a mehanical problem with the turbo. could be bad actuator or cracked waste gate valve or boost leak. Since he said he said he went to a mehanic and got a leak test its probably some sort of wastegate problem.

computers don't magically fix mechanical problems. I honestly don't understand why people would mod a car at all if all your doing is paying a pro to do it for you. either buy an already modded car or jist buy a faster car. and the best advice people can give is take it to a pro?? Thats like saying "i have no real knowledge my advice is ask someone with real knowledge". Whats the point in even saying that?

it is possible that the tune could have caused some damage to the turbo, but the problem will not be solved with a new pro tune.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:32 AM   #15
Seat_R
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Those were our thoghts.... Turbo, wastegate or boost selenoid (turbo is not smoking or making some weird noises, wastegate even with help does not rises more than 14-15 psi and the car feels like n/a because full boost is over 5k)

So tomorrow we are going to try the bcs.....

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:28 PM   #16
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Pull the turbo and check for cracks around the wastegate. You can leak test with normal results and still have an issue there.

And you really should get a pro tune for that setup, not saying it will fix your problem now, but will be better for the motor in the long run
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:44 PM   #17
Seat_R
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Thanks we'll do it!!!
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:20 PM   #18
Subie904
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Hey guys I have a question about my 2012 wrx I just reached 2500 miles on it and have never driven with an open throttle until today and I did a first and second gear pull shifting at 6k rpm after that I smelled a burning smell from around where my intake box is does anyone know what that could be?
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:14 PM   #19
Seat_R
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Problem solved!!!

Nothing electronic..... Pictures latter!!!
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:42 PM   #20
Semparu13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subie904 View Post
Hey guys I have a question about my 2012 wrx I just reached 2500 miles on it and have never driven with an open throttle until today and I did a first and second gear pull shifting at 6k rpm after that I smelled a burning smell from around where my intake box is does anyone know what that could be?
It was probably your clutch from improper shifting technique (not being a dick, i burnt the **** out of my clutch when I first got my car)

upside is if it was mechanical it is covered by warranty (no mods yet right?)
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:57 PM   #21
omega145
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As others have suggested, get a specific dyno tune for your vehicle. Some cars don't take kindly to the Cobb tunes already in the accessport with certain mods.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:07 PM   #22
Seat_R
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Thanks we are about to do it to proper use of wai and cutout....

Problem was broken exhaust (headers)....
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:47 PM   #23
Subie904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semparu13

It was probably your clutch from improper shifting technique (not being a dick, i burnt the **** out of my clutch when I first got my car)

upside is if it was mechanical it is covered by warranty (no mods yet right?)
No mods yet other then axel back exhaust. I don't feel any diff in the clutch. Smell went away so I think everything is fine. Thanks! I do have one question should I use fully synthetic oil? If so what brand? Should I do oil changes at the dealership?
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:09 PM   #24
Semparu13
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Ok, well just as a general perspective just because a smell goes away is not necessarily indicative of the problem going away. And you clutch wont go out the first time you ride it but when you are shifting avoid dumping it on your launch. Also avoid slipping it out at high rpms, there is kind of a happy medium with AWD cars. Look around you will find many threads, youtube videos etc. on this. And yes you use fully synthetic oil. I think my local Subaru happens to use Mobil 1 fully synthetic, and if you feel comfortable doing your own servicing, power to you! Personally I have a maintenance package until 60k you may want to check with your local dealership on what kind of deals they can cut you.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:40 PM   #25
Subie904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semparu13
Ok, well just as a general perspective just because a smell goes away is not necessarily indicative of the problem going away. And you clutch wont go out the first time you ride it but when you are shifting avoid dumping it on your launch. Also avoid slipping it out at high rpms, there is kind of a happy medium with AWD cars. Look around you will find many threads, youtube videos etc. on this. And yes you use fully synthetic oil. I think my local Subaru happens to use Mobil 1 fully synthetic, and if you feel comfortable doing your own servicing, power to you! Personally I have a maintenance package until 60k you may want to check with your local dealership on what kind of deals they can cut you.
Thanks allot for help!! The dealership techs changed my oil and did the first 3k miles service and they did use valvaline fully synthetic oil car runs great like new lol.
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