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Old 11-12-2012, 04:34 PM   #1
pshwag
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Default Average coolant temp 208-210 Is this bad!!??

I have a 02 wrx in the process of getting a stage 2 e-tune. I recently did my timing belt, water pump, and thermostat before tuning and have re-bled the coolant system to check for air.

My car will run around 208 while driving normally and while driving agressively. The only time the temp goes down is after a hard pull it will fall to around 185.

Any advice on getting my temps under 200 would be greatly appreciated!

I would rather not replace my new water pump and/or thermostat btw...

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Old 11-12-2012, 05:02 PM   #2
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Also no noticeable coolant leaks and fans seem to be working!
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:43 PM   #3
Ebal
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My 2003 wrx stays at186 at all times
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:09 PM   #4
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mine is around high 180's to low 190's average driving around town. after i do a pull and then come to a stop or in stop/go traffic it will climb. try bleeding any more air out of the system. take the top radiator cap off and squeeze the upper radiator hose with the car running. seems a bit high for a brand new thermostat
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02
mine is around high 180's to low 190's average driving around town. after i do a pull and then come to a stop or in stop/go traffic it will climb. try bleeding any more air out of the system. take the top radiator cap off and squeeze the upper radiator hose with the car running. seems a bit high for a brand new thermostat
This. Your symptoms sound a lot like air in the system OR you bought a faulty thermostat (unlikely).
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:46 PM   #6
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You may also have a slightly blocked radiator.
But as said before, try to re burp it first as that is the cheapest fix.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:56 PM   #7
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I'll try and bleed it again. These things are a pain to fill so ill see what happens.

What do you mean it could be blocked? As in it could be clogged? It feels like it runs the same as it did before I changed the thermostat, but idk if I would notice a 15-20 degree temp change.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:55 AM   #8
recce02
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The blocked radiator comment was just a possibility. If by chance your rad is stock, there is a possibility that some of the rows in the core have built up some sort of deposits and clogged them up. If you re burp the system and you are still having higher temps, I would look into the radiator next.
How did your old water pump look? Any sort of calcium deposits on the fins or passages?
Not trying to scare ya, just giving you another thing to look at if everything else is ok.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recce02 View Post
The blocked radiator comment was just a possibility. If by chance your rad is stock, there is a possibility that some of the rows in the core have built up some sort of deposits and clogged them up. If you re burp the system and you are still having higher temps, I would look into the radiator next.
How did your old water pump look? Any sort of calcium deposits on the fins or passages?
Not trying to scare ya, just giving you another thing to look at if everything else is ok.
Yea the old water pump looked fine. I couldnt comment on the coolant though because i drained it into a dirty oil pan.

I guess i wouldnt mind getting a shiny new radiator even if its not the problem!
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #10
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If you want it to run cooler, get a cooler thermostat :P

Grimspeed 160 degree works great, is just as beefy as the stock one, and takes like 5 minutes to install after you drain the coolant.

With the grimspeed thermostat my car runs about 170-190.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon021 View Post
If you want it to run cooler, get a cooler thermostat :P

Grimspeed 160 degree works great, is just as beefy as the stock one, and takes like 5 minutes to install after you drain the coolant.

With the grimspeed thermostat my car runs about 170-190.

Yea I suppose if i get a new radiator I would change it out.

How bad is it to run ~20 degrees hotter than usual?

I would prefer to finish tuning the car and then do the radiator etc. after christmas...
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:03 PM   #12
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Go with a stock thermostat. My GS thermostat stuck 95% closed, causing what could've been a fatal over-heat.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LatentWagen
Go with a stock thermostat. My GS thermostat stuck 95% closed, causing what could've been a fatal over-heat.
What did grimmspeed say about that? Considering it's supposed to fail Open that's pretty serious.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:54 AM   #14
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Get a Mishimoto radiator or any all aluminum 2 core ones, you temp will go down.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:16 AM   #15
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do not get the GS thermostat to solve the problem! get a new radiator or do a coolant flush of the system esp the radiator itself.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
do not get the GS thermostat to solve the problem! get a new radiator or do a coolant flush of the system esp the radiator itself.
I will probably replace with a new stock thermostat again... and get a new radiator.

Can anyone comment on whether or not I can wait until after the tune is complete to do this?

Would I be able to get more power out of the tune with the cooler temps?
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:00 AM   #17
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well since optimal is 185 then it might start pulling timing in the ecu if the coolant temps get to high. just have the tuner log coolant temp to make sure its not going through the roof. your thermostat is prob fine. try the radiator first. coolant is cheap!
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:11 AM   #18
pshwag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
well since optimal is 185 then it might start pulling timing in the ecu if the coolant temps get to high. just have the tuner log coolant temp to make sure its not going through the roof. your thermostat is prob fine. try the radiator first. coolant is cheap!

Ok Thanks! Coolant is cheap, but a new radiator isnt
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon021 View Post
What did grimmspeed say about that? Considering it's supposed to fail Open that's pretty serious.
There was no harm done; what would they do? I'll skip the discount

It failed because the spring valve came "off track" at an angle, if you can picture that. The only thing that saved me and enabled me to limp home (30 seconds on, 5 min off works well) was the fact that it was cracked open because of the angle it was at. I take it as a learning experience, and don't mess with low-end parts in important places anymore. GrimmSpeed heat shield, check. Parachute straps, I'll pass
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:00 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshwag View Post
Ok Thanks! Coolant is cheap, but a new radiator isnt
I think my mishimoto was like 150 shipped from a vendor on here. Also check your radiator caps as well.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:46 AM   #21
pshwag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amroof View Post
I think my mishimoto was like 150 shipped from a vendor on here. Also check your radiator caps as well.
I only have the one since its an 02 but I replaced it when i went to bleed the coolant for the second time!
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