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Old 11-14-2012, 08:45 PM   #1
Dragon_Ski
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Default What does 2011 WRX need for handling

Just laid out some $ for a 2011 WRX .. Its bone stock .. I presume they under steer stock as thats the safe way to build them .. Do you guys that have them agree ??? .. and if so what do you do to get it to turn . I presume like other subies a heavier rear sway bar will get the handling closer to neutral .
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:48 PM   #2
Snow Drift
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1) Racecomp Engineering (RCE) front and rear 25mm sway bars (Buy GR STI sways for 2011+ WRX)
2) Bilstein/GTWORX Cup Sport Kit Struts (stock struts can't take lowering springs)
3) Racecompe Engineering (RCE) Yellow Lowering Springs
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:36 PM   #3
timbits
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Short answer, yes.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:55 PM   #4
DIGGYGV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snow Drift
1) Racecomp Engineering (RCE) front and rear 25mm sway bars (Buy GR STI sways for 2011+ WRX)
2) Bilstein/GTWORX Cup Sport Kit Struts (stock struts can't take lowering springs)
3) Racecompe Engineering (RCE) Yellow Lowering Springs
Agree with the sways, but I'd go full coils if you wish for more customization.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:20 PM   #5
RE3Rotor
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Coilovers are overkill if you are not planning on tracking the car.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:37 PM   #6
puff
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Steering rack bushings
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:40 PM   #7
Dragon_Ski
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thanks guys . and Timbits .. we have to chat lol .
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:53 PM   #8
puff
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Go to Dales and talk to Jason or Jameson I just did my steering rack bushings today and I notice the difference immediately
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:57 PM   #9
belaud
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Don't forget your endlinks & control arms
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:59 PM   #10
ShiftGear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belaud
Don't forget your endlinks & control arms
Especially front end links
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:44 PM   #11
DIGGYGV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RE3Rotor View Post
Coilovers are overkill if you are not planning on tracking the car.
I just like the fact that I can change the dampening and height and all that as I please.

Static settings are the bane of my existence... as an IT nerd, it's one of those things LOL
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:00 AM   #12
RE3Rotor
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How many times have you changed the settings instead of just liking the fact it's doable?

Being a SE/IT for over 10 years, I know more IT folks than you can shake a stick at. While I understand why you think the way you do. Spending more than double or triple the money for something you'll most likely never use is simply impractical.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:51 AM   #13
Karmalina
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Thanks for reminding me how much more cash I still need to dump into my Rex There's a reason my boyfriend and I refer to her as the "money grubbing whore" lol. With such love.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:26 AM   #14
Drakar
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rack bushings aren't necessary on the GR/GV chassis. Not like a GD/GC which NEEDS em.


coilover's are nice, but not necessary for so many people.

A good strut/spring combo like suggested is perfect.

I've ran coilovers in a GD and a GR, and while it was nice, it was dialed in once and done. there was no re-adjusting since it was a street car.

Track = different setups per conditions but thats more complicated then slamming it.




OP = good sways (like suggested 25 RCE or 24 whitelines)
good springs (swift or RCE)
Bilstein struts (can't go wrong with awesomeness)

that will be plenty to start.


oh and IT has nothing to do with coilovers ..... OCD does.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:27 AM   #15
alcoolaid
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Depends what kind of driving you want to do. Auto-x? Road course? Rally? High-speed? Low-speed?

And define understeer? Is it at low speeds or high speeds?

Reason I ask is because you can setup your car to have a twitchy rear-end for auto-x which is great to get the car rotated but once you bring it to the road course at high speed that same setup might be dangerous. For example snap oversteer if you can't handle the car.

Even small changes such as a 0.5" difference in ride height in the back can make a big difference.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:48 AM   #16
2010 WRX Limited
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If you want to get less oversteer the common suspension practice is to either stiffen up the rear or soften up the front. Since the front is pretty soft on stock form I would try the former not the latter.
I've done a fair bit of experimentation both on the street and the track and found this to be my preference for my WRX. If you only want to street drive it, adjustable swaybar(s) may give you all you need. But if you want to track it or really customize the setup you may want to consider some coilovers.

But don't listen to me Arthur has 10x the experience that I do with suspension setup... and no matter what, AWD cars will exhibit some oversteer if you try to throttle-steer. Not that you can't throttle-steer but it requires a gentle foot. And I've found with my setup that the best way to get the car to rotate is trail braking.

Last edited by 2010 WRX Limited; 11-15-2012 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:44 PM   #17
dalesalignment&brake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon_Ski View Post
Just laid out some $ for a 2011 WRX .. Its bone stock .. I presume they under steer stock as thats the safe way to build them .. Do you guys that have them agree ??? .. and if so what do you do to get it to turn . I presume like other subies a heavier rear sway bar will get the handling closer to neutral .

Yes, a rear bar will help along with an alignment. The factory settings are quite neutral that will promote understeer.

Plan an upgrade path, this will help you make the right decisions.

(In cooler temps do not expect great tire adhesion anyways.)
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:24 PM   #18
Dragon_Ski
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thanks a bunch .. So I take it your saying that alignment settings could help understeer as well .. Sounds great and will be in touch ..



Quote:
Originally Posted by dalesalignment&brake View Post
Yes, a rear bar will help along with an alignment. The factory settings are quite neutral that will promote understeer.

Plan an upgrade path, this will help you make the right decisions.

(In cooler temps do not expect great tire adhesion anyways.)
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:34 AM   #19
dasnowman
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It's funny everyone mentioned suspension but no one really mentioned tires... Tires are your first link from road to the car and depending what type of driving you do as well as the conditions you are driving in.

I always tried to go with a good sticky summer tire for the warm weather and a good wet traction snow approved winter tire for cold ... Even though I drive 15-30 times a year in snow to the mountains etc 98% of the time in winters around here you are driving in the rain! Sad but true on the wetcoast. So I always try to go with the best snow tire in the rain.
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