Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday August 22, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-10-2008, 11:58 PM   #51
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

First impressions are amazing improvement. Can't believe I've had the bushings for moths and waited so long to do this......

Jay Storm
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2008, 04:35 AM   #52
mattwho
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 156202
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:
02 WRX sedan
WRB

Default

Great thread. I'll have to try this out to help eliminate my side-to-side shifter slop.

This should be on scoobymods.
mattwho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 12:14 AM   #53
Skidd
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 1853
Join Date: Jul 2000
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: SA-TX (Hozer expat)
Vehicle:
GC6 Supercharged
STM

Default

A bump with an Update! Thanks to the OP and this thread for saving me some $$$!! I managed to rebuild my joint for under $8.00. In fact, had I know I could have bought the bushings I used at Lows I could have done this fix for under $3.00. I managed to keep it on the Cheap with a tweak to the OPs fix.

My whole rebuild is documented here
http://www.ludicrous-speed.com/wiki/...le_Shifter_Fix

But, the short short version is this.
Ground and punched out the rivet. Drilled and Tapped a hole in the end, and used a bolt to secure it. Thus, re-using the Rivet!!





Skidd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 03:22 AM   #54
mattwho
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 156202
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:
02 WRX sedan
WRB

Default

^Nice.

I see I was going to do this mod 2 years ago and I still haven't. I need to get off my lazy ass and do this already!
mattwho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 08:40 PM   #55
Legacy777
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy & 97 OBS
AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap

Default

Nice tweak to the mod. I like it!
Legacy777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2012, 03:02 PM   #56
SgtRauksauff
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 29920
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
Vehicle:
1998 OBS
Green! No Black! AAAAAAH!

Default

One thing to note, the McMaster part numbers have changed.

McMaster 6294K88 (0.75") is now 6294K441 ($1.64 @ the time of this post)
McMaster 6294K64 (0.50") is now 6294K439 ($1.40 @ the time of this post)

This is for the MDS-impregnated Nylon bushings, not plain nylon. MDS being Molybnenum Disulfide, which has wear-resistant and lubricative properties. Also available in UHMW (Ultra-Heavy Molecular Weight Polyethelene) at a significant price increase ($7.00+ each.) The standard nylon ones are available only in 5-packs instead of individually, for $4.xx per 5-pack.

I just got a '98 OBS, which has a super-wobbly shifter, so I started researching a bit. Good stuff so far!

--sarge
SgtRauksauff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2012, 06:10 PM   #57
orion3
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 180752
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
Black

Default

Damn that roll pin!
I spent hours trying to get it out today to no avail. I was able to get the smaller inner roll pin out but not the larger, couldn't even slightly move it after intense hammering.

The only thing I can think to do now is drill it out, can those roll pins be found at local hardware stores?
orion3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2012, 11:25 PM   #58
mattwho
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 156202
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:
02 WRX sedan
WRB

Default

Use a punch and hammer - it should come right out. Harbor Freight has cheap punch sets if you don't have the right size. Not a bad idea to replace the roll pin anyway though - order from your local dealer.

Another thing you might run into - I could not for the life of me get the bolt to go into the new plastic bushing, even greased up. Even broke a couple of them trying to hammer the thing in. I had to use a bit just a tiny bit larger than the bushing's inner diameter and drill it out ever so slightly. Worked like a charm.
mattwho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2012, 11:29 PM   #59
mattwho
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 156202
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Vehicle:
02 WRX sedan
WRB

Default

To clarify - use a small punch that fits inside the outer pin to drive out the inner pin, then use a punch that doesn't fit inside the outer pin but fits into it's hole, to drive the outer pin out. Piece of cake.
mattwho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:16 AM   #60
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

Great write-up and contributions everyone. This was exactly what I was looking for so I could D-I-M on my 98 BD GT which has the same shifter-slop issue. This is on a SoCal Sube with 77K on it so presume that the heat/dryness (and stop-and-go traffic) just decimated the stock bushings. Think I'll go with the 3/4" long flanged sleeve bearings in MDS-filled nylon for longevity and good wear resistance.

It's been so long since I futzed with the tranny on any of my Subes that I can't seem to get my mind around why it can't be disassembled and then R&R'd off-car. Remind my aged brain why I can't just put my 98 BD up on a lift, support the tranny with a high-lift tranny jack in order to remove the transmission cross-member, then take the entire shift linkage assembly off the car and then to a work bench to R&R it.

Plan to do this at the base auto hobby shop at the same time I fix the clutch slave issue. Going to do the TSB 03-52-03 repair to the clutch hose and slave cylinder to fix the sticking clutch issue, and replace the master cylinder at the same time so expect this to be at least a half-day event.

Will post-up any recommendations and pics I come across that might help.
SBT

Last edited by Subietonic; 05-25-2012 at 09:21 AM.
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2012, 09:57 AM   #61
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777 View Post
I got the joint off, retightened things, and put a lock washer on. There is still just a little bit of play, 1/32" or less due to the tolerances in the bolt & the nylon bearing. It's possible the bronze bearings would fix that, but I'm not sure. I may order the bronze ones and use them in the spare joint I have.

updated pics
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...m/DCP_4227.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...m/DCP_4228.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...m/DCP_4229.JPG

Overall I think this is pretty good custom mod. It could definitely use some refinement. I'm curious to see what cboggess and subieworx come up with, assuming they come up with a solution for the 5spds.

Josh
Josh,

Relooking at this, is it possible that there may also be some play between the sleeve bushing shoulders and the linkage itself. Is there a reason that you went with the 1/16" shoulder on the sleeve bearings instead of the 1/8"? Is there just not enough room to fit them without bending the linkage outward with an extra 1/16" of shoulder on each side?

It seems to me that if the linkage is tight against the sleeve bushing shoulders, and the sleeve ID is 3/8" and the bolt OD is 3/8" that there wouldn't be any play.

Also did you add any lube to the joints? Seems like some
<i><b>Super Lube</b></i>Super Lube
would be completely appropriate for the sleeve/metal compression and joint areas. Apologies if I missed that.
SBT
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 01:29 AM   #62
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

Got my parts. Ordered MC's MDS Nylon 3/8" x 3/4" (4) for the linkage and 3/8" x 1/2" (2) for the shifter itself. Decided to go with SS's suggestion on using the OEM shoulder bolt and replacement spring, so picked those up today as well. Still need to pick up the AZ nut for the new shoulder bolt. One thing I don't know if I'll need is any of the really thin nylon washers that L777 used on this repair. TSB is done, and when this is finished, everything should feel new again.
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2012, 11:48 PM   #63
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

Did the R&R today. With two punches sized for the spring pins, they were a snap to drive out/back in. Of all the issues, the cross-member presented the biggest challenge as the left and right attachment points wouldn't line up and I nearly borked the left-side bolt. Fortunately, got it back out and rethreaded/reinstalled.

Everything I did was pretty straight-forward and aimed most for ease of access. Here's my process:

1) Lift the car on a frame lift with the transmission in 5th gear -

2) Put a transmission stand under the forward-most part of the transmission (just aft of the exhaust pipe) and tighten it just enough to put tension on the transmission so it doesn't drop, tilt or move

3) Undo the front cross-member from the frame (two 17mm bolts), undo the center and rear cross-members from the transmission (total of 10 14mm bolts and nuts) - set these all aside

4) Undo the two 12mm spring bolts holding the catback pipe to the cat (at the donut gasket), pull the cat back pipe off its first (front) rubber hanger and swing it out of the way

5) Undo and remove the heat shielding above the exhaust system so that the shifter shaft brace, shaft and joint linkage are completely visible and accessable - there are three 12mm bolts and two 12mm nuts

6) As was mentioned previously, use a long, small-sized drift (I used a 6" 5/32") to punch out the inner spring pin, then use a long, larger-sized drift (I used a 6" 3/16") to punch out the outer spring pin. Hint - Tilt your smaller drift so it "catches" the side of the inner spring bolt as you drive it out. Hold them as they come out the top side of the housing so they don't get loose and bounce away somewhere unretrievable

7) Undo the single 12mm nut holding the shaft stay to the outer face of the forward stay bushing, undo the spring, and remove both the spring and the outer face

8) Undo the two 12mm bolts that hold the rear shaft stay bushing, pull the shaft stay and forward bushing off the transmission, then shift the shaft stay down and away from the shift linkage

9) Now undo the 12mm bolt and nut holding the joint between the shafts and remove the joint

10) Grind off the head of the riveted pin in the transmission-side of the joint, drive it out, and now the joint is ready to be re-bushed

11) Lube up the new bushes, press them into the joint on both axis

12) I used the 12mm OEM shouldered bolt because it fits perfectly into the joint where the ground-off the rivit-pin head used to be

13) As SubyS and Pat O mentioned, the shouldered bolt is a 10mm bolt, and the inside diameter of the bushing is 3/8" so there's no way to easily slide the shouldered bolt into the bushings inside the joint. I used a large vise to press the first bolt through the transmission-side of the joint and tightened the shoulder nut to 8.72.2 ft-lbs. I also ground off the excess threads to ensure more than enough clearance once reinstalled.

14) Slide the transmission side yoke with the joint bolted to it onto the transmission shaft. Align the joint to the shifter-side yoke using the original 10mm shouldered bolt and nut. Originally, the nut was on the bottom, but again, because of how tight the bushes are, you'll need to drive this through from the bottom and reattach the nut on top, so get a big drift pin and slowly/steadily drive it through until the bolt threads clear, then attach the nut and tighten it to 8.72.2 ft-lbs.

15) Re-pin the spring pins - do the large spring pin first, then, install the smaller pin. I used a reversed 10" 3/8" drive extension to start the larger pin, then turned it around and used the square end to drive it in the rest of the way. Then I used a 10" 1/4" drive extension with an appropriately-sized socket on the end to hold the smaller spring pin to start it into the hole, then used a large drift to drive it flush with the large spring pin.

Note of caution on reinstalling the spring pins - when propertly installed, they protrude from both sides of the transmission-side joint connector, so don't drive them flush when reinstalling them - reinstall so that both sides protrude equally. Initially, I drove them flush, which put them too far out on the other side, so I just drove them out again, then reinstalled them

16) Re-lube the shifter brace bushing, reattach the bushing, brace face and spring, reinstall the 12mm nut but leave it loose

17) Reattach and tighten the 12mm bolts (13.03.6 ft-lbs) holding the rear shifter bushing mount - hold the face so the spring attachment points line up, then tighten the face nut (8.72.2 ft-lbs) - reattach the spring to the face if it comes off.

18) Reinstall the heat shielding

19) Reinstall the catback system - tighten the spring bolts until they reach the end of their threads. I also lubed the hanger before I re-hung the catback

20) Reinstall the transmission cross members. Torque specs: Front cross-member (10114 ft-lbs); Center cross-member to front cross-member nuts (5111 ft-lbs), Center cross-member to rear cross-member bolts (5111 ft-lbs), and Center cross-member to rear transmission cushion nuts (277 ft-lbs); Rear cross-member bolts (5111 ft-lbs).

Enjoy your new-feeling shifter. Mine pre-upgrade was so sloppy that you could draw 10" circles in any gear. I still intend to do the bushings on the shifter itself (1/2" MDS Nylon), but even without that upgrade, my shifter is finally the "snick, snick" I remembered, with absolutely no slop in, or between, gears. I'm completely jazzed by the improvement.

Last edited by Subietonic; 06-09-2012 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Edited for clarity - added torque specs
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2012, 10:26 PM   #64
Swagon_Wagon
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 294424
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: NNPTC, Goose Creek, SC
Vehicle:
2006 Spec B. #41
specb silver

Default

just want to add that these shoulder bolts can help you with this mod.

92981A306

also wanna add that you can grind away the rivit with the part still on the transmisson so you dont have to punch out the pins... thats if your transmission is out of the car.
Swagon_Wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 08:46 AM   #65
classicaddict
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 220619
Join Date: Aug 2009
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: aberdeen MD
Vehicle:
04 wrx wagon
silver

Default

Is there a reason you all are getting the SAE 3/8 bushings instead of a metric one?
classicaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 09:23 AM   #66
classicaddict
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 220619
Join Date: Aug 2009
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: aberdeen MD
Vehicle:
04 wrx wagon
silver

Default

I have one more question. I see plenty of talk about the u joint. But how about the shifter? I see the part number for MMC's bushings, does this remove the metal sleeve? Or is it still used exactly like the OEM setup?
classicaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2012, 02:00 PM   #67
jojocat
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 41066
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Midwest USA
Vehicle:
2014 2.0i base
Dark Gray

Default

Just wanted to chime in since I finally did this mod on my 98 legacy l after procrastinating for like 2 years. Definitely worth the effort. IMO, best upgrade I've done since i upsized my wheels to the GT size a few years ago.

I used the subaru shoulder bolt and a pretty low profile prevailing-torque type of locknut from oreilly - a doorman part I think.

I ordered the 2 bushings for the shifter itself, but unfortunately they are a different size on my legacy, so I have the original neoprene type of bushing in there still. I think that's where the only remaining play is coming from, and it's literally probably only about 1/8" in any direction.

One thing I didn't see here elsewhere - I was able to do this without removing any crossmember or exhaust heat shield. It's definitely tight in there, but I'd gotten very familiar with this area from all the times I'd tried other lesser fixes with nylon washers, etc. I had the harbor freight punches, did the center pin, then the larger one and it was a snap. This is a salty MN car, so that's saying something. To get it back in, I just put something a little smaller than the pin into the hole from the opposite side to maintain the alignment, and then drove it out with the pin ducktaped to a slightly larger punch.

My only regret is waiting so long - no more chatter, no more 6" of play. I was stoked every time I drove my car for days after doing this. Do it now!

@classicaddict - the 3/8 bushings end up resulting in something like a pressed fit in this joint, and the result it perfect. It's just dumb luck.

Last edited by jojocat; 11-16-2012 at 02:07 PM.
jojocat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 01:03 PM   #68
classicaddict
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 220619
Join Date: Aug 2009
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: aberdeen MD
Vehicle:
04 wrx wagon
silver

Default

i got everything in the mail yesterday. 4 of the 3/4 long and 2 of the 1/2 long. however, the 2 for the shifter have an OD damn near exactly the same as the OD of the metal sleeve, so these two bushings are going to fit inside of the factory bushings in the shifter.............whats the point of that? im going to measure things myself and order the correct size, just currious why you all are ordering #6294K439?

incase my post was confusing this is the way things are factory;
shifter assembly > two bushings (the soft rubber garbage) > metal sleeve > shoulder bolt to linkage.

with the mcmaster bushings its going to be;
shifter > two OEM bushings > two mcmaster bushings in place of the metal sleeve > shoulder bolt to linkage.

so im not going to bother with them other than pulling the shifter out to measure the ID of the "barrel" on the shifter so i can order the proper bushing OD.
classicaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2013, 07:10 PM   #69
spendlove57
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 361581
Join Date: Jul 2013
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
Silver

Default

I am a newbie and just changed my front and rear shifter bushings today and saw that there was nothing attached to those notches on the washer. I guess that spring is supposed to go there. Where did you get that spring from?
spendlove57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2013, 08:20 PM   #70
subysouth
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5039
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Vehicle:
2007 Outback XT
Grey 5-speed

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by spendlove57 View Post
I am a newbie and just changed my front and rear shifter bushings today and saw that there was nothing attached to those notches on the washer. I guess that spring is supposed to go there. Where did you get that spring from?
Dealership.

ss
subysouth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 10:57 PM   #71
monkeyposeur
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
93 SS
Black Pearl

Default

Great thread!
monkeyposeur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 11:08 PM   #72
Jeffery678
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 365557
Join Date: Aug 2013
Default

What year joint is that from? Was it similar to the one in my picture before you separated things?

Last edited by Unabomber; 08-16-2013 at 12:32 AM.
Jeffery678 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2014, 05:22 PM   #73
wtyree
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 29879
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Friendswood, TX
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
Silver

Default

I need to do this to mine.
wtyree is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
PA: Kartboy 5spd shifter and bushings yetdude12 Drivetrain 5 09-22-2007 02:00 PM
CO: Kartboy 5spd shifter and bushings NvrenuffWRX Drivetrain 1 09-12-2007 10:02 AM
APS TMIC BOV, stock uppipe, TurboXS Unichip, Kartboy 5spd shifter bushings wrxfactor NESIC Private Classifieds 7 08-08-2006 08:24 PM
WTB: 5spd STi short shifter + linkage + bushings neptune Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 0 06-07-2005 10:21 AM
Are subaru short shifters universal for the 5spds/rear subframe bushings? wrxsubaru Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 8 10-20-2004 10:18 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.