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Old 10-29-2012, 06:39 PM   #651
Zebe
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Is there any reason why I couldn't just cut/disconnect the hose near the red line in the photo below, plug the hose on the engine side, delete the CEL codes via AccessTUNER Race, reflash the ECU, then be done?

Seems to me that this would be just as effective at blocking the air flow, given my "stuck on/open" valve condition, as removing all the components and installing block-off plates. Although not as clean looking, it would get me back in full service until I have more time to do the physical removal.

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Old 10-29-2012, 07:02 PM   #652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebe
Is there any reason why I couldn't just cut/disconnect the hose near the red line in the photo below, plug the hose on the engine side, delete the CEL codes via AccessTUNER Race, reflash the ECU, then be done?

Seems to me that this would be just as effective at blocking the air flow, given my "stuck on/open" valve condition, as removing all the components and installing block-off plates. Although not as clean looking, it would get me back in full service until I have more time to do the physical removal.
Exhaust heat would *melt* the rubber hose.

Edit: I should have said exhaust heat WILL melt the rubber hose since your valves are reportedly "stuck" open.

Last edited by neg_matnik; 10-29-2012 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:22 PM   #653
EvileyeZ88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebe
Is there any reason why I couldn't just cut/disconnect the hose near the red line in the photo below, plug the hose on the engine side, delete the CEL codes via AccessTUNER Race, reflash the ECU, then be done?

Seems to me that this would be just as effective at blocking the air flow, given my "stuck on/open" valve condition, as removing all the components and installing block-off plates. Although not as clean looking, it would get me back in full service until I have more time to do the physical removal.
It would be all fine and dandy if you had the "stuck closed" code.

But since they are open you are most likely running rich as hell with all that extra space for your combustion to go.

Think of it this way you have a hole in one or both cylinder heads just leaking out.

The plates really aren't that hard to install. I have helped a few friends do theirs with the car on the ground and the tmic removed in a few hours.

~Evil
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:18 PM   #654
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For anyone looking to replace their Air Pump Systems, I am selling a perfect working condition air pump setup off a 2007 for $110 shipped. Just throwing that out there if anyone is having problems with theirs
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:01 PM   #655
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Originally Posted by C0rnFed View Post
For anyone looking to replace their Air Pump Systems, I am selling a perfect working condition air pump setup off a 2007 for $110 shipped. Just throwing that out there if anyone is having problems with theirs
I will buy the pump!
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:11 PM   #656
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Heres my thread to the air pump system i have for sale
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2426394
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:34 AM   #657
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Couple things to note on this. My car is very rust free for a new england car. I still ended up with a large pile of bolt head trophies, one of them being from the block off plate behind the up pipe. Managed to drill it with a left hand drill but broke the easy out off inside. I clamped it down good with the other one but I do have an exhaust leak coming from somewhere that I need to find and fix. I'm hoping its not from that but if it is I guess I'll be drilling it out and helicoiling it because the bolt is very much fused to the head. It makes me wonder, does the block off plate for that side fit the bolt pattern of the hose on the air pump side? If so just putting the block off on that side would make this mod immensely easier since it would only require intake manifold removal. Instead it requires removing the up pipe (which requires removing the down pipe and turbo).

Also suggest that you have the nut extractor sockets that irving tools makes. The ones that grab onto rounded nuts and bolts. Those were essential for removing the nuts that hold the turbo to the downpipe (and obviously buying new nuts).
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:48 AM   #658
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I can't remember who it was, but someone in here found a tap and bolt size that fits the inlet for the air pump on the block. Negating the need for the plates.

I have been able to do this mod without removing the up pipe. Although in your case it was most likely necessary.

~Evil
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:50 AM   #659
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Evil I may end up looking for that and keeping it as a backup plan.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:39 PM   #660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
I can't remember who it was, but someone in here found a tap and bolt size that fits the inlet for the air pump on the block. Negating the need for the plates.

I have been able to do this mod without removing the up pipe. Although in your case it was most likely necessary.

~Evil
What's the timeframe it took you to remove the components ?
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:04 PM   #661
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Give yourself 6 hours or more. Sometimes its easy sometimes its a pain in the ass.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:12 PM   #662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
Give yourself 6 hours or more. Sometimes its easy sometimes its a pain in the ass.
Or it could be a complete nightmare and take you from 11am on saturday to 3:30 am on monday.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:09 PM   #663
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Its all in how you approach it.

You can go bare bones and simply unbolt the air pump lines from the block, and install the plates.

The real headaches come from removing the actual system itself.

The biggest problem being the line that runs from the passenger side valve to the passenger side. It is underneath the intake manifold and the line for it is hurried under everything on top of the block.

The drivers side is cake, it comes out in one piece in under 10 mins.

Also make sure if your car is an 07 to remove the multi pin (can't remember how many 8-10) connector from the top of the valve and re connect it.

That's the atmospheric pressure sensor.

If you have any other questions ask away.

~Evil
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:34 AM   #664
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I removed my pump during a rebuild and haven't had any issues. Used Accesstuner Race to get rid of the codes. I wouldn't want to do this with the motor in.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:50 AM   #665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
I can't remember who it was, but someone in here found a tap and bolt size that fits the inlet for the air pump on the block. Negating the need for the plates.
According to my search its 3/8-16, tap drill size is 5/16. Buying both from Enco tool as a backup. Also buying the proper dill and tap for the stock size and the helicoil.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:44 PM   #666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
Its all in how you approach it.

You can go bare bones and simply unbolt the air pump lines from the block, and install the plates.
Curious as to how long that would take. At this point (until I have a free weekend), I just want to be able to remove the lines from the block,. install the plates, delete the codes, and tune the car. I've been driving the car too long with the CEL light on. How long do you think it would be just to get the piping out of the way and install the plates?
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:43 PM   #667
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As I said you can go bare bones and just disconnect the passenger side line and install the plate. The biggest headache is removing. The passenger side lines.

The drivers side is easier than cake. It all comes out with like 4 bolts.

I would say you could do the bare bones installation in under 3-4 hours.

~Evil
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #668
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:35 PM   #669
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To report back in. If you are like me and do have one of your bolts fused to the head. Fret not. a 3/8-16 tap works perfectly. The tap drill for it is a 5/16 which fits exactly into the port on the head, just need to run it in by hand to clean the carbon out and tap it. You will need one of the more expensive t handle tap holders since the space is limited. Like so.

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Old 11-23-2012, 03:48 PM   #670
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Don't get metal in the engine. That should run into the exhaust port but could get into the turbo
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:30 PM   #671
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Oh yeah. I made sure the engine was turned to the point that the exhaust valves should be closed and then use the same procedures you used for tapping an oil pan for turbo drain while its still on the engine. IE grease on the tip of the tap, and backing out many times. I then blew anything out through exhaust that may have fallen in with the air compressor.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:48 AM   #672
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sysfailur View Post
Thank you so much sir. I just saw-zaw'ed mine out. Easiest way once I f'ed with it for a while I realized if you disassemble everything, put the sawzaw blade right under the sensor on the backside of the plug and zip it right across. It takes like 3 minutes to get it outta there once I tried that way.

I'm pumped (no pun intended).. I just removed all this stupid crap outta my car a few weeks ago but haven't had time to get the sensor out. Gonna plug it back in, check my atmos reading and clear the codes now.

Thanks again!!! I didn't wanna do the resistor hack.

PS: Installing block off plates with a Tomei up-pipe w/ a 38mm EWG was not an easy task. And I'm leaving the long metal pipe in danging around that runs under the turbo, until I need to remove the turbo for some reason or the intake mani.
Instead of 1) hacking out the pressure sensor and 2) having to deal with passenger line shenanigans (cluster**** dangling sawed lines, stripped engine threads, removal of uppipe, manifold, etc) , just leave the damn valve with sensor in place and block it with the OEM Subaru Tribeca/LGT $3 EGR block-off plate, reconnect the passenger line to the valve with block-off plate between them, advantages:

1) You preserve ability to go back to stock should you decide to sell vehicle as close to original condition.
2) No need to deal with the passenger side bock-off plate, just block the end of the line by installing the plate between the pipe flange and the valve flange.



Finnish by plugging valve inlet with rubber groomet.



Am I missing something here? or people just choose to follow popular convention without stopping and thinking of more elegant and reversible solutions?

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 11-25-2012 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:07 AM   #673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN

Instead of 1) hacking out the barometric/atmospheric sensor and 2) having to deal with the under turbo block-off plate shenanigans, just leave the damn valve with sensor in place and sandwich the OEM Subaru Tribeca/LGT $3 EGR block-off plate between valve and under turbo piping flange, advantages:

1) You preserve ability to go back to stock should you decide to sell vehicle as close to original condition.
2) No need to deal with under turbo block-off plate, just block the end of the pipe by installing the plate between the pipe flange and the valve flange.

Reconnect passenger side/under turbo pipe here with plate in place.

Am I missing something here? or people just choose to follow popular convention without stopping and thinking of more elegant and reversible solutions?

Most of the people who remove the system are doing it for one of two reasons:

1) The system has failed and is throwing a Cel; [Valve stuck closed] not so bad [Valve struck open] this one is what causes all the problems.

2) People like myself, who do not want a basically useless system (From a performance standpoint) taking up precious realty in the engine bay


~Evil
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:41 AM   #674
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^I understand why people are doing this your 1) is irrelevant.

Saving realty? give me a break, you are ALREADY removing the damn air pump, valve with no sensor, driver's side line, rubber hoses.

You are not saving any space by leaving the under manifold passenger line and its valve, they are hidden, it is not precious realty...and will save a lot people headaches and potentially save a lot of other issues than can go wrong by removing the passenger line, uppipe, manifold, etc.

And for people who claim leaving weight savings on the table, valve weighs only 1 lb, and you are talking to a guy whose 2007 Forester weighs close to 3,000 lbs thanks to weight savings, so yeah weight savings are important to me too, just this time it is not worth it. I am more than satisfied having shed 8 lbs on the air pump, sensorless valve, driver's pipe, hoses.

Let's start giving people sound advice for 2007 vehicles: leave pressure sensor valve and passenger line alone and block-off with $3 Subaru plate sandwiched between them. For all vehicles: Remove: air pump, valve with no sensor (2-pin valve), driver's side line and hoses and block driver's side head with a 2nd Subaru $3 plate, remove codes with Accessport Tuner Race free program, Romraider with Tactrix, or contact tuner.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 11-25-2012 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:15 PM   #675
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sounds like a plan, what's the part number for this subaru plate?
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