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Old 11-08-2012, 05:39 PM   #126
JDwhiteWRX
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I may have to get one of these too, any links Scotty?

How long are people getting out of their PC680? mine is about 2 years old now in a daily driven car.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:48 AM   #127
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDwhiteWRX View Post
I may have to get one of these too, any links Scotty?

How long are people getting out of their PC680? mine is about 2 years old now in a daily driven car.
my pc680mj lasted 5 years...the last year, after i put it in the 06 wrx, it was getting weak. i think the extra parasitic drain from the factory alarm hasened its demise....but i wired in a small solar panel charger that i suction cupped to the windshield where the passengers sun visor would cover when flipped down....it seemed to help a bit, but i dont know for sure
im now using an ETX16L 'Magna Powesports'(Deka) that I got at Advance auto for ~$85
It seems to be doing just fine and is the second one of these i have used...the first one i got REAL cheap...like 25% of new price... as a used 'return' item at advance auto.....it lasted a bit over 2 years with an unknown history and never failed and wasnt DEAD.....just slow to crank when the temps went into the 20's F...and i had the $$$ to replace it so i did.

I think the 2 things that make the BIG difference with these small AGM batteries are....HEAT!!! keep them cool and they last a LOT longer, and parasitic drain.....keeping the ecu and clock going in my 02 wrx didnt seem to be a big issue....but add ANYTHING else like the factory alarm., and ya gonna have issues over time.
I think a properly wired in small solar charger should provide enough juice to make this a non-issue even for cars that are parked for weeks at a time, though.
__________________________________________________ __-

http://www.braillebattery.com/

http://antigravitybatteries.com/


http://www.shoraipower.com/

....there are, really only 3 main 'players' that i can see
Braille, Antigravity and Shorai
there are a couple upstarts, but those are todays main players

the braille and antigravity seem to offer several advantages over the shorai but at a higher to much higher(current) price

the antigravity warranty seems to be best....that may matter or not....and it is made in the usa
YMMV
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:36 PM   #128
Jack
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Something to consider:

If you are running an SCCA IT legal car, you probably already have the electrical kill switch hanging near the pass window. My CRX was set up this way when I bought it. I found that I could take the wire that existed and simply pull it through the firewall and run it along the floor and behind the pass seat. I added zero wire. The intent was to move weight from the very front heavy pass side near the headlight to a place lower and farther back. I didn't even change the battery......but of course, I used this in a prepared class, so there were no side windows, so venting was never an issue.

On a street driven car? Sorry, Why bother?
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:23 AM   #129
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Got this premium kit 4ga wiring kit. Battery will get relocated to the spare tire well (or under glove box). No more excessive vibration or heat FTW, fuucker 4ga 20ft is heavy: 3.4lbs.




Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 11-16-2012 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:49 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Got this premium kit 4ga wiring kit. Battery will get relocated to the spare tire well (or under glove box). No more excessive vibration or heat FTW, fuucker 4ga 20ft is heavy: 3.4lbs.




i have less than 10' for sure...how far is it from under the passengers seat...along the trans tunnel and across and out the firewall above the footbox to the underhood fuse box???
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:59 PM   #131
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
gonna hafta measure it and see if it fits...if so, done deal...and the NEG is gonna get 4ga straight to an ecu mount bolt

if not...back under the seat
^You have inspired me again, PC680 actually fits "under" the glove box, will ground to ECU bolt as suggested, 4ft of wiring from starter, and no impact in weight as I am removing the stock harness.

Beauty is it will be hidden from passenger view, will not impact leg room and will be recharge accessible.

Looking for a 4 gauge crimper, this any good or how to achieve A PROFESSIONAL crimped terminal.

Amazon.com: Forney 57637 Lug Crimping Tool: Home ImprovementAmazon.com: Forney 57637 Lug Crimping Tool: Home Improvement


Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 11-17-2012 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:19 AM   #132
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I soldered mine...dont trust crimps really

butane torch...hi grade electrical contact solder...a vice and took all of an hour to solder every connection...even the lugs in the Anderson connector i used

slide heat shrink over the entire lug and seal the entire thing.....then use the m6 bolts to mount the lugs to the battery and only cut the shrink where it would touch the terminals....a lil extra short circuit protection

then i painted the whole thing at the terminals with liquid electrical tape---do NOT get that stuff on anything you dont want stained FOREVER
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:07 PM   #133
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Trunk mounted battery in the spare tire well with remote jump start / charging terminals under the hood.



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Old 12-10-2012, 03:57 AM   #134
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD04WRX View Post
Trunk mounted battery in the spare tire well with remote jump start / charging terminals under the hood.




you can jumpstart under the hood by using the POS on the alternator and the NEG on just about anything else

i actually left the stock battery cables under the hood in case a 'regular' battery was needed.....i can put a battery back under the hood in less than 5 minutes and use large zipties to hold it down temporarily...which i always have in the car, anyway
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:39 AM   #135
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I'm going to use this 4 Gauge Accel lightweight racing cable from Summit. Power Switch.
Not only do I want to redistribute the weight, even though I'm already using a Deka ETX12 Powersports AGM Battery (very small/light), I want to clear out the battery from the engine compartment. It's already where it shares it's space with my external oil filter.
And, I need to have the battery disconnect switch.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:09 AM   #136
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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I relocated my Odyssey "behind" glove box plenty of space.

Good point by Uncle on using the POS starter and any ground to charge the battery.

Another relocation advantage is extending lifespan, these AGMs are very susceptible to heat & vibe.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:44 PM   #137
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i put mine in the passenger foot well and added a master cutoff switch. this thread helped quite a bit.
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #138
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The question is becoming why relocate the battery when the latest lightweight batteries are so light. Just by relocating the smaller lighter battery you are raising weight because of all the wire used. So why not just leave it in stock location and go with a nice new small one. The one I am looking into getting is 2lbs.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:33 AM   #139
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Obviously you have to do some research about negative effect of underhood temps & vibration on these batteries. And my wire is lighter than the factory harness.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:46 PM   #140
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all of my added wiring weighed less than 1.5 lbs. i used much of the stock wiring and just added a bit of length.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #141
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I'm really curious why vibration would be bad for a battery or, if specific to a VRLA, AGM style battery? Wikipedia says the opposite: "Vehicles used in auto racing may use AGM batteries due to their vibration resistance."

As to why I want to move my battery to the back: I am running lightweight Accel 4 gauge. I will have a
distribution blockdistribution block
in the front, like is used by huge amps in cars.
I want to free up the clutter in the engine bay.
I want to reduce the risk of having a battery in the front and it getting damaged or shorted.
I want to redistribute the weight.
I want to open up that corner for use for other hardware.
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