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Old 11-18-2012, 07:01 PM   #51
Calidrifter
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Can't wait to see this thing finished. Good luck with the build.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:43 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieguy87 View Post
Are they gc or GD?
They are for thr GC going on this car.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:49 AM   #53
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Looks very nice. I always liked a Black Type R and its not easy to get 1 in UK
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:36 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilteg View Post
They are for thr GC going on this car.
just wondering, bc gd is longer
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:29 PM   #55
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this is ridiculous!!!

I'm curious to see what's all involved with making the RHD wipers work. And also how you're going to approach the firewall swap.

keep up the good work!
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:13 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hazelnut33
And also how you're going to approach the firewall swap.
What firewall swap?
ive read both lhd & rhd subies use the same firewall
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:17 PM   #57
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the shape is the same on both sides, but the holes are not.

you need to mount the master cyl, clutch master, run the steering column, heater core in/out, wiring, etc on the opposite side.

You could maybe get away with cutting/drilling new holes for the stuff that needs it, but you'd be left with uncovered holes where the brake master & steering column used to go.

this is why you usually see people weld in patches from the RHD car in place that already have the holes & mounting locations
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:38 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hazelnut33
this is why you usually see people weld in patches from the RHD car in place that already have the holes & mounting locations
In all the build threads, on subies, thats not done

And on a gc the heater core in/out are on the sides of the pitch stop, should just use opppsite holes
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:45 PM   #59
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ok, so how do you mount the brake master cyl, the clutch master, and the steering column?

and what do you do with the holes that are left on the left hand side?
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:14 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hazelnut33 View Post
ok, so how do you mount the brake master cyl, the clutch master, and the steering column?

and what do you do with the holes that are left on the left hand side?
i said heater care ****tard.
those i wasnt sure about, i was just CORREECTING YO7U ON **** YOU WERE WRONG WITH sorry
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:21 PM   #61
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lol. this guy

i've got a fully functioning jdm heater core!! now how do i make the car go?!?!

if you're not sure about it, that's fine. but don't be talking like you know everything about doing a RHD swap, telling me that people never swap firewalls.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:00 PM   #62
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I plan to do a fire wall cut and weld. the panels are the same shape for both RHD and LHD its the hole pattern that is different. The heater core holes remain the same the issue is the support of the firewall where the pedals bolt to. it needs to be moved from left to Right to fit the heater core properly. I haven't pulled the motor yet but when i do i will make sure to post comparison pictures for others reference. This site is full of knowledge if you search you will find almost any answer you can imagine.

AB
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:15 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondaslayer View Post
There is always a possibility that I am wrong, but I don't see a pump in the engine bay pics.
Clearing this up there is no ABS on the Type R clip where the ABS pump once was mounted is bottle of water for the IC sprayer.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:04 PM   #64
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Update 12/2/2012

Clipped stripped to pedal box


question more for the hardcore JDM guys what the hell is this little sensor thingy on the dash piece closest to the windshield?



in context of location



good note my box from Japan came in with my JDM goodies





the Genome gauges are missing the sensors but i heard they are standard for defi across the board. Can anyone verify or point in the direction to score them?

Thanks everyone
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:25 PM   #65
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IIRC that is a "sun sensor" what it does (aside from the obvious sensing of sun) no ****ing clue.


Anyway, Genome gauges, gahhhhhhhhh. Standard Defi bits.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:48 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondaslayer View Post
IIRC that is a "sun sensor" what it does (aside from the obvious sensing of sun) no ****ing clue.


Anyway, Genome gauges, gahhhhhhhhh. Standard Defi bits.
Cool well we are one step closer to understanding it maybe it correlates to the temp control as i'm sure you are familiar the JDM unit is all electric and there is an odd little sensor on the dash that wasn't on my RS oem dash

is that a good gahhhhhhhh or a boo because they are not period correct?
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:38 PM   #67
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I believe that is the sun load sensor for the auto climate control.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:33 PM   #68
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Update 12/03/2012.

hung a door today because it was in the way yay update





breaking it down to paint it is going to be far less fun but i needed the space

panda is such a bad look right?
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:50 PM   #69
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HELP!!

does anyone know the part number for the studs that go into the rear differential and bolt through the rear subframe? The JDM studs decided to weld to the nuts when i took them out the came studs and all . also does anyone know the size of the 4 bolts that connect the drive shaft to the differential?

Thank you
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:54 PM   #70
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So just put the studs back in the other car the same way, treat them as bolts now.

The driveshaft bolts are 8mm.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:22 PM   #71
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Thank you! Ill track down the bolts I was going to replace the studs due corrosion i guess I could just reverse them.

Thanks again
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:33 PM   #72
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Update 12/11/2012

put the rear subframe back in with the new pink bars and trailing arms.


moved my attention to the clip in hopes of pulling the motor



then a few more questions for you all.

Does this turbo look ok? there is no play up or down or side to side?


i found this sticker on the timing case. does this mean the timing belt was done at this mileage or is this when it



when removing the intake manifold the wonderful peeling paint chips fell into the heads is it safe to use a shop vac to suck them out?

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:13 AM   #73
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Shop vac will be fine.

No clue on the sticker, I would replace the belt anyway to be safe.

Quote:
The driveshaft bolts are 8mm.
N/M brain fart. I may have some spares (actually I'm fairly certain I do) the problem is finding them, when I moved cross country I dumped all my hardware en masse into 5 gallon buckets and have yet to sort it again.

Last edited by Hondaslayer; 12-12-2012 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:18 PM   #74
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Well, my friend, looks like we're both doing the same swap around the same time =) I just left Japan after 5 years and could not part with my Version 6 Type R. So I did what any hard core Subie gearhead would do, I stripped it and shipped it back stateside in pieces. Parts wise, I think we're about the same other than I cut the firewall just ahead of the shock towers. I have all the important stuff from the front of the car. I only left half of the bare shell in Japan.

All of my goodies arrived two weeks ago. Just about everything survived with only a couple minor scratches. If you want to check out my car, I'm on the "other board", same nick as here.

My donor is a 98' 2.2 "L" coupe. I didn't want a sunroof as the Type R was never offered with one so the RS was not an option. My Version 6 was Blue Ridge Pearl, however I am changing it over to Steel Blue Mica (only offered on the Version 5).

I'd be interested in swapping notes with you. Couple things I've noticed and you've probably figured out by now... The firewall is the same however there is a secondary skin on the inside that is RHD specific. You can drill out the spot welds on the donor and on your USDM chassis and fit the RHD specific skin. That way you're not disturbing the integrity of the OEM firewall. As for the extra holes, I'm going to MIG new sheetmetal behind the holes than use body filler on the engine bay side to smooth the firewall.

You'll need to drill out the spots for the main dash support. I think it has 4 or so spots and weld that on to your USDM chassis. As for the wipers, you'll need to swap the center wiper support over to the left of center (referenced from the driver's seat). It can be done but it's going to suck.

I pulled mine apart and I've owned it for the last 4 years or so. I know most of this car, so if you have any questions, I can try to help you. I also have the Subaru FAST software if you need part numbers. It's in Japanese but I can show you how to navigate it. It's a great resource as you can usually supply your JDM part number to subaruparts.com and they can order what you need. Drop me a PM with an E-mail address and I'll shoot the software your way. I'm excited to find another GC guy as nutty as me =)

Ryan

P.S. The timing belt sticker comes with every new T-belt (in Japan). Yours means: Timing belt changed at 72,476 km on February 28th of Heisei 20 (2008).





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Old 12-12-2012, 09:36 PM   #75
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sweet build man
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