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Old 11-20-2012, 03:24 PM   #3676
Red081
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Originally Posted by GMR54 View Post
I just received a call from my dealer letting me know that my order is still on hold, and he said that is due to the fact that I ordered my car with Nav. He wanted to know if this was a must have for me, or would I be willing to get rid of it if it meant getting my car sooner. I said as long as this wont reset my order/wait time I'd be fine with that, and he said it shouldn't. I'm wondering if justy or Evanston has had any experience removing the Nav from an order, and if so did it result in a shorter wait time?

Ordered 8/22
WRB wrx limited 5 door with Nav and a few other goodies.
I'm in the same boat as you and it's absolute BS. I've seen a lot of orders that have been placed well after yours, both with and without Nav that are rolling in. I wouldn't take off the Nav and risk delaying the wait another 4 months unless the dealer was 110% sure. Even then I would be hesitant...
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:35 PM   #3677
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How do we know where that ship is headed? Isnt PA BLB Panama?
Port of Balboa, Balboa Panama. It's the administration center for the canal.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #3678
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Port of Balboa, Balboa Panama. It's the administration center for the canal.
That's correct. If it shows Jacksonville after it leaves the canal, we may be in business. Maybe it will take a straight course to Davisville, RI
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:52 PM   #3679
Pan WRX
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I'm out!

2013 WRX Limited Sedan. DGM. No Nav, no options.
Ordered 9/26 from Metric Subaru (Long Island, NY)
Delivered 11/20
Hard break-in complete (first 20 miles to seal the rings), now it's on to moderate break-in for the next 1k.

Car feels like a big step up from my previous car (05 WRX Stage 2). I thought performance would be close, but the 13 really is a LOT beefier.

Best of luck to you all! The car is DEFINITELY worth the wait!
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:10 PM   #3680
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Originally Posted by Pan WRX View Post
I'm out!

2013 WRX Limited Sedan. DGM. No Nav, no options.
Ordered 9/26 from Metric Subaru (Long Island, NY)
Delivered 11/20
Hard break-in complete (first 20 miles to seal the rings), now it's on to moderate break-in for the next 1k.

Car feels like a big step up from my previous car (05 WRX Stage 2). I thought performance would be close, but the 13 really is a LOT beefier.

Best of luck to you all! The car is DEFINITELY worth the wait!
Congrats!

I have to ask you what do you mean by hard break-in?
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:47 PM   #3681
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Originally Posted by luan87us View Post
Congrats!

I have to ask you what do you mean by hard break-in?
Some people think you should push your car really hard initially to seal the rings. Some say you should treat it delicately and vary the RPM ranges. Some say all the breaking isn't necessary because the factory machined clearances are so close compared to cars even 10, 15 years ago.

After a ton of research I don't believe anyone knows for sure what to do when you first get a car.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:54 PM   #3682
Pan WRX
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Thanks very much!

about the break-in stuff.... exactly what randomae said.

I figured since no one really KNOWS for sure, I would kind of get the best of both worlds by doing the hard break-in for the first 20 miles, which is what the hard break-in people say is the most important, in case it really does seal the rings... and then do the moderate break-in that Subaru tells you to do.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:34 PM   #3683
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Originally Posted by Red081 View Post
I'm in the same boat as you and it's absolute BS. I've seen a lot of orders that have been placed well after yours, both with and without Nav that are rolling in. I wouldn't take off the Nav and risk delaying the wait another 4 months unless the dealer was 110% sure. Even then I would be hesitant...
Could it be their allocation that is the issue? Remember Mike saying SOA changed the rules this year so factory orders come out of the dealership's normal allocation, instead of the regional one. So if you ordered from a small dealer that doesn't do a lot of volume it could be that they just have to wait until Subaru allocates them another one.

I don't know how true that is, but you may want to ask them or check online to see how many WRX/STi's they are getting on a regular basis. For example I found 2 dealers I like that offered me pretty much the same price, one has 2 in transit and the other has 14. Just to be safe I'm going with the guy who gets 14 a month.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:54 PM   #3684
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Originally Posted by randomae View Post
Some people think you should push your car really hard initially to seal the rings. Some say you should treat it delicately and vary the RPM ranges. Some say all the breaking isn't necessary because the factory machined clearances are so close compared to cars even 10, 15 years ago.

After a ton of research I don't believe anyone knows for sure what to do when you first get a car.
Yeah, do what feels right. I usually drive like a normal person (don't baby it, but don't go WOT either) for the first 200-300 miles, then get a bit more aggressive for the next couple hundred and then try not to think about it.

Then my dad says break it in the way you plan on driving it, that it's bad to baby the car for the first few weeks if you are going to be aggressive with it later. Basically it's like asking an athlete to sprint without training--good recipe for a pulled hammy. It's also a good reason why you let your car warm up in the morning, but do so by driving it gently--not by letting it idle in your driveway for 15 minutes.

Also, being an engineer myself, you wouldn't leave something that critical to the performance of your product in the hands of the consumer. If engines really needed to be broken in for 1000 miles before the were ready for prime time, then it would be done at the factory. Imagine if you bought your AMOLED phone and you were told to leave it on an all-white screen for the first 100 hours (which is more or less what's done at the fab before shipping them out).

Last thing, I've purchased 3 new cars and have never had a dealer say a word to me about a break in period.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:01 PM   #3685
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Last thing, I've purchased 3 new cars and have never had a dealer say a word to me about a break in period.
this
true story
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:07 PM   #3686
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My dealer told me to drive it how ever I wanted that there wasn't a break in period.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:02 PM   #3687
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Your dealer need to RTFM
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:06 AM   #3688
Almentm
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That's correct. If it shows Jacksonville after it leaves the canal, we may be in business. Maybe it will take a straight course to Davisville, RI
Jacksonville will be awesome! I think it will be in the Mid east coast though - Maybe Northern Georgia. Who wants to start making bets? I found a map, and it's between 1850-2050 Nauts of travel from us. If it leaves port soon, and averages (lets give it a low number) 12 Nauts to desination, it should take between 6 days to 7 days to get here. That seems super quick until you actually think about the numbers! Anyways, i bet it will be somewhere in Georgia, possibly jacksonville FL, and i think the ship will arrive the 29th or 30th depending if they make any more stops. I bet my car will arrive at the dealer around the 11th of Decemember
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:41 AM   #3689
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Originally Posted by doubleurx View Post
Your dealer need to RTFM
I'm keeping it under 4k for the first 500-1,000 miles. It's such a mixed belief as to how to properly break in a car.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:20 AM   #3690
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I'm keeping it under 4k for the first 500-1,000 miles. It's such a mixed belief as to how to properly break in a car.
The dealer manual says to keep it under 4k varying the RPMs until 1k miles. Not sure why there are mixed beliefs.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:28 AM   #3691
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Originally Posted by Horuku View Post
The dealer manual says to keep it under 4k varying the RPMs until 1k miles. Not sure why there are mixed beliefs.
x2

seems pretty clear cut with most cars nowadays - follow the manual.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:36 AM   #3692
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It's a mixed belief because there's different theories on what's best for the car. Every car manual says some type of break in period yet there are people that go drive like a bat out of hell the second they step into their new cars and never have any problems with them. I like to be on the safe side though and take it easy.

Question though since I do only have 170 miles on mine so far. For those of you that have your STi's, did you keep it in "I" mode the entire break in period and switch it into "S" mode at all? I've had mine in "I" so far keeping it under 4K rpms but it feels so sluggish in "I".
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:42 AM   #3693
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Originally Posted by Horuku View Post

The dealer manual says to keep it under 4k varying the RPMs until 1k miles. Not sure why there are mixed beliefs.
Because the dealer doesn't get paid much for warranty work. They would want you to baby it so they don't have to fix anything that goes bad. And where do they get this do called dealer manual?

Say you go And drive it like you stole it, and nothing goes wrong: everything sets right. If anything goes wrong dealer fixes it. Great end of story, happy owner.

Now u baby the car and the moment you drive it like you should, some thing goes wrong cause something didn't seat properly, and its now it acts up after 36k. Now it's your problem.

I refuse to believe that Subaru nor any other car company doesn't test these engines and QA's them before putting them in vehicles.

Just my .02 cents, like many already said there are many factors to this, but bottom line is its up the the owner.

Got my vin, eta, and just waiting for the car. Having the eta is worse than not knowing when it will come! Now im counting down the minutes till the eta!
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:45 AM   #3694
Meeno
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Originally Posted by Horuku View Post
The dealer manual says to keep it under 4k varying the RPMs until 1k miles. Not sure why there are mixed beliefs.
Why is it that of all the precautions car manufacturers put in the manual the break-in period is somehow sacred? Yet people ignore the advice to never disable the traction control, or drive at high speeds in slippery conditions, or make modifications to the engine and exhaust system? They're all just suggestions.

Like I said if it were really all that important they would do it at the factory. Or have a rev limiter that held the RPM under 4k for the first 1000 miles. Just like if they really didn't want you to disable traction control they wouldn't give you a way to do it.

Just drive the damn thing.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:18 AM   #3695
digitizedsoul
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+1

just drive the damn thing.

if you don't have enough common sense while doing so (smells, sounds, feel's, etc) you are destined for disaster anyway.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:07 AM   #3696
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Originally Posted by Red081 View Post

I'm in the same boat as you and it's absolute BS. I've seen a lot of orders that have been placed well after yours, both with and without Nav that are rolling in. I wouldn't take off the Nav and risk delaying the wait another 4 months unless the dealer was 110% sure. Even then I would be hesitant...
I told them not to do anything unless they can get a definitive answer from SOA that it would push my order through sooner. I was kind of annoyed because they had no idea whether or not this would do anything they just wanted to try it and see what happens
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:45 AM   #3697
luan87us
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Originally Posted by Meeno View Post
Yeah, do what feels right. I usually drive like a normal person (don't baby it, but don't go WOT either) for the first 200-300 miles, then get a bit more aggressive for the next couple hundred and then try not to think about it.

Then my dad says break it in the way you plan on driving it, that it's bad to baby the car for the first few weeks if you are going to be aggressive with it later. Basically it's like asking an athlete to sprint without training--good recipe for a pulled hammy. It's also a good reason why you let your car warm up in the morning, but do so by driving it gently--not by letting it idle in your driveway for 15 minutes.

Also, being an engineer myself, you wouldn't leave something that critical to the performance of your product in the hands of the consumer. If engines really needed to be broken in for 1000 miles before the were ready for prime time, then it would be done at the factory. Imagine if you bought your AMOLED phone and you were told to leave it on an all-white screen for the first 100 hours (which is more or less what's done at the fab before shipping them out).

Last thing, I've purchased 3 new cars and have never had a dealer say a word to me about a break in period.
Yea as a engineer student (focus on manufacturing) I don't see how a company would make a product and leave the consumer to make sure everything is within clearance. The piston's rings should be sealed already coming from factory because they done quite a bit of testing on the car before releasing it. Although it wouldn't hurt to follow what the manufacturer manual advices. I've never went WOT before so hopefully temptation won't be a problem for me.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:21 AM   #3698
skareemoutloud
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Originally Posted by luan87us View Post
Yea as a engineer student (focus on manufacturing) I don't see how a company would make a product and leave the consumer to make sure everything is within clearance. The piston's rings should be sealed already coming from factory because they done quite a bit of testing on the car before releasing it. Although it wouldn't hurt to follow what the manufacturer manual advices. I've never went WOT before so hopefully temptation won't be a problem for me.
You can never really be sure. Take the STi's for example. There are a lot of reports where people were driving them hard before the 1,000 mile mark and they ended up getting ringland failure from improper sealing, and then had to get their motors replaced under warranty.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:24 AM   #3699
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Originally Posted by Almentm View Post
Jacksonville will be awesome!
Last one that delivered cars (Leo Leader) went from the canal to Jax, Baltimore, Davisville then Boston. Of course this one may just head to Europe Who knows
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:26 AM   #3700
luan87us
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Originally Posted by skareemoutloud View Post
You can never really be sure. Take the STi's for example. There are a lot of reports where people were driving them hard before the 1,000 mile mark and they ended up getting ringland failure from improper sealing, and then had to get their motors replaced under warranty.
It wasn't because people was driving them hard before 1000 miles mark. From what I read when I was researching the main cause was the ECU tune was too lean. Someone already mentioned this but the factory will test drive the car pretty hard before shipping it out. I'm starting to think the ringland issue is more likely to happen to people that have aftermarket tune and might have mess up somewhere in their map since there's more reports of ringland failure on STI with aftermarket tunes.

I think people just need to use common sense when driving any car. I will most likely to not have any problem not going crazy with the car for the first 1000 miles so I won't mind following the manufacturer recommended break in period.

Last edited by luan87us; 11-21-2012 at 11:33 AM.
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