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Old 11-21-2012, 01:11 PM   #4926
WhiteBgeye02
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to the guy with the jdm/usdm ecu just take the jdm stuff for the maf scaling both g/s and voltage and copy them over to the usdm ecu. they read the same thing and if the scaling is the same the fueling will be the same too. copy over all the timing tables including the load and rpm axis to make sure they match. if you have a wideband drive it around a bit and see what the afr's are cruising. afr correction will help as well. it can add upwards of 25% fuel but the stock ecu setting is 15% plus or minus. you can change that to a larger value i believe.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:17 PM   #4927
D-Rodman
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I went with a Tomei down pipe, the construction is a lot like the Tomioka, probably the same diameter tubing. It's a donut style gasket flange, not flat flange, I wanted to keep it factory like. It was $400 delivered from a vendor on fleabay.
Search vf36 on fleabay, There is a Kinugawa bellmouth for $349 shipped, I thinks it's Jdm length and donut style. There is also a kakumei, twin dump, flat flange for $300 + 80 shipping.

Last edited by D-Rodman; 11-21-2012 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:07 PM   #4928
TheSubieDriver
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I have the Tomei TS dp, nice piece but it necks down to 2.5". I picked up a pair of stainless 3" 3-bolt header flange collector extenders and used them to replace the neck down on the dp and extend the midpipe.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-pvr10s/overview/
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:33 PM   #4929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
They sent me some pictures of the engine and intercooler. Damn that's a pretty motor. No pics of the ECU but they said the code will be 22611AH581. Should be good to go.
Have my number still? Pm or txt me we need to talk.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:48 PM   #4930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadsbc

Have my number still? Pm or txt me we need to talk.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:57 PM   #4931
ImNOrobo
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Oh, It's a JDM STI?
Pretty close.

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Moore performance has twinscroll exhaust parts now. Their group buy might be up still.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:37 PM   #4932
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This thread is way to long. Took forever to read and I would feel like a total jackass posting all my questions. I wouldn't want to contribute to turning this thread into a question/answer thread...

that being said, why isn't their a sub forum for EJ207 owners already?
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:22 PM   #4933
kpluiten
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Just go ahead and ask. We can help. That's the purpose of this thread until we get a sub forum.
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:19 AM   #4934
2JZ
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I figure that a EJ207 is significantly more reliable than a EJ257 and offers higher RPM redline (great for autocross) and gets me within my goals (12s on the 1/4 mile @ my lowish elevation). But how reliable is it? I figure through an oil cooler I can maximize it...

How does the spec C oil cooler work exactly? Is it hard to retrofit a regular ej207 block to have the same system? I assume I can increase the reliability of the motor significantly through an oil cooler.

Or should I just use a universal oil cooler kit? I plan on occasionally tracking the car in the summer and want to maintain absolute reliability because this car will continue to be my daily driver...

Buying a Spec C motor is out of the equation because it's hard to get and my local JDM places offer great prices on regular ej207s

Last edited by 2JZ; 11-24-2012 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:55 AM   #4935
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I wouldn't bother with a external oil cooler unless you are strictly tracking the car. I think it would be overkill for a mostly street driven car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2JZ View Post
I figure that a EJ207 is significantly more reliable than a EJ257 and offers higher RPM redline (great for autocross) and gets me within my goals (12s on the 1/4 mile @ my lowish elevation). But how reliable is it? I figure through an oil cooler I can maximize it...

How does the spec C oil cooler work exactly? Is it hard to retrofit a regular ej207 block to have the same system? I assume I can increase the reliability of the motor significantly through an oil cooler.

Or should I just use a universal oil cooler kit? I plan on occasionally tracking the car in the summer and want to maintain absolute reliability because this car will continue to be my daily driver...

Buying a Spec C motor is out of the equation because it's hard to get and my local JDM places offer great prices on regular ej207s
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:08 AM   #4936
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The oil filter takeoff point is the same on all the EJ2** engines. The Spec C oil cooler takeoff bolts on in place of the water cooled modine you have on the STi engines.

The nice thing about the spec c takeoff is that it uses hard lines over the exhaust headers, so there is less risk of cooking a braided hose line and that causing a failure when at elevated exhaust temps. The Spec C oil cooler isnt that large though, so if running over 400BHP i would say it's too small for track use.

So long as you heat shield the exhaust headers properly and thermal protect the braided lines properly, the traditional oil takeoff plate is just as reliable, but dont skimp on that aspect as you will have a resulting oil line failure and fire as a result when running hard on track.

I used to run wth the stock modine setup on my car at 450BHP levels doing sprints (autocross) and general road use, it's perfectly adequate for that use. Once going on track doing sustained load runs you will overheat the oil fairly quickly though.

I now have a very tidy oil cooler package, using a custom made race core radiator and combined oil cooler unit, with very short pipe runs for the cooler lines. I recently ran this at the nurburgring on the nordshliefe and GP circuits with circa 450BHP. Oil temp on the nordschliefe was 88 degrees C, on the GP circuit where it was much harder demand it peaked at 102 degrees C after 10 minutes then stayed there for the remaining 10 minutes flat out, fast enough to pass full race spec 997 GT3's and lap some serious German metal.

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Old 11-24-2012, 02:01 PM   #4937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfelstead View Post
The oil filter takeoff point is the same on all the EJ2** engines. The Spec C oil cooler takeoff bolts on in place of the water cooled modine you have on the STi engines.

The nice thing about the spec c takeoff is that it uses hard lines over the exhaust headers, so there is less risk of cooking a braided hose line and that causing a failure when at elevated exhaust temps. The Spec C oil cooler isnt that large though, so if running over 400BHP i would say it's too small for track use.

So long as you heat shield the exhaust headers properly and thermal protect the braided lines properly, the traditional oil takeoff plate is just as reliable, but dont skimp on that aspect as you will have a resulting oil line failure and fire as a result when running hard on track.

I used to run wth the stock modine setup on my car at 450BHP levels doing sprints (autocross) and general road use, it's perfectly adequate for that use. Once going on track doing sustained load runs you will overheat the oil fairly quickly though.

I now have a very tidy oil cooler package, using a custom made race core radiator and combined oil cooler unit, with very short pipe runs for the cooler lines. I recently ran this at the nurburgring on the nordshliefe and GP circuits with circa 450BHP. Oil temp on the nordschliefe was 88 degrees C, on the GP circuit where it was much harder demand it peaked at 102 degrees C after 10 minutes then stayed there for the remaining 10 minutes flat out, fast enough to pass full race spec 997 GT3's and lap some serious German metal.
Wow awesome, thanks for sharing that. I currently autocross in my anemic 2.5i and would love to return with a EJ207 next season. But I also would like to move up to a proper local race track.
If I decide to run no oil cooler, I will just monitor the temperatures to prevent any problems.

I assume the oil temperature & pressure sensors for a EJ257 fit a EJ207 as well? Any recommendations as to which set to get exactly? The defi gauges look awfully expensive... are replica defi gauges an awful idea even if i use good sensors? Whats the best bang for my buck?

Last edited by 2JZ; 11-24-2012 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:17 PM   #4938
johnfelstead
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Yes, same location will work for the majority of sensors. I use Defi's, a nice alternative are http://www.stri-racing.com/dsd.html
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:02 PM   #4939
WhiteBgeye02
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So John that cooler is basically just welded onto your radiator or is your radiator narrower so it comes out to the same width with cooler compared to a std size wrx/sti radiator?

flows top to bottom with an fittings then?

what brand oil cooler adapter do you use between the block and the filter? i dont have the stock version from a spec c. I did some some company that sells one that has a built in thermostat that opens when the oil gets hotter than a given temp so it doesnt always use the oil cooler say when its cooler out.
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:23 PM   #4940
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You can buy the oil manifold that replaces the cooler from japanparts.
It does have a thermostat integrated.
Since there is no coolant heat exchange, the water pump has one less connection.

You can see the photo of the manifold in my thread.

There still are special rubber couplers (hoses), there are 4 of them, but there is a conduit riser meant to pass under the right side headlight.
Since this was built for a blobeye, the bugeye headlight needs to be modded to allow conduit passage.

My temperatures are quite constant, the OEM size cooler is a good choice for a car that is not tracked all the time.
I have an article in my blog for this.
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:38 PM   #4941
Jubert69
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If I copy tables from my current ECUTek lock'd version 7 ECU, can I copy those tables to a version 8 ECU and use it on my car to retain AVCS?
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:05 PM   #4942
Zaider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
My temperatures are quite constant, the OEM size cooler is a good choice for a car that is not tracked all the time.
I have an article in my blog for this.
Link to blog?
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:32 PM   #4943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
So John that cooler is basically just welded onto your radiator or is your radiator narrower so it comes out to the same width with cooler compared to a std size wrx/sti radiator?

flows top to bottom with an fittings then?

what brand oil cooler adapter do you use between the block and the filter? i dont have the stock version from a spec c. I did some some company that sells one that has a built in thermostat that opens when the oil gets hotter than a given temp so it doesnt always use the oil cooler say when its cooler out.
The radiator/oil cooler combined unit fits into the same apature as the OEM radiator, its the same width and height of the stock item. There are two versions you can buy, either with OEM fans that fit straight on, or race fans for if you are not using Air con so only need a two wire fan system, so some of the RH fan cools the oil cooler if you are stationary with the fans running.

Water temps sit at 82 degrees C, even on track thrashing it for 20 minutes, the only time i see higher is when sat stationary and it just goes up to 88 degrees C where the fans kick in and bring it back to 82 degrees C.

I bought the whole package via Chevron Motorsport here in the UK, it was designed by them initially for the Time Attack cars i helped run with them, the cores are the same as i use in the Formula One cars i race prepare, so are very efficient.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:43 PM   #4944
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I imagine the coolant in the radiator alleviates more of the heat from the oil when compared to a stand alone oil radiator? And even heats it up faster when the coolant warms up first?

either way... that's a brilliant setup you got there, are there any companies that offer these combined units?
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:25 PM   #4945
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The oil and water work independantly, any conducted heat transfer will be very small, the oil takeoff plate has a thermostat built in and of course the water uses the Subaru water thermostat to control minimum temperatures for the water system.

You can buy these from Chevron Motorsport in the UK. They dont have a website, but can be contacted by email on chevronstafford@btconnect.com if you wish.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:39 PM   #4946
Zaider
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:12 PM   #4947
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Similar, strange decision to put the oil cooler on the wrong side of the car though.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:01 PM   #4948
todeswalzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnfelstead
Similar, strange decision to put the oil cooler on the wrong side of the car though.
For $1800 youd think so wouldn't you
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:17 PM   #4949
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True. The only reason I could come up with is they went to the other side to avoid the mess with the PS lines? Seems like a weak reason, but they probably make them to order, so maybe you could ask them to switch the sides if you wanted.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:34 PM   #4950
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so ive tried searching and to no avail still cant figure it out.
AVCS on the right side of my v8 swap is working,
AVCS on the left is reading 0's.
no screens, no CELS, wiring is good.
Bad solenoid? im not sure what else it could be.
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