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Old 08-17-2012, 12:02 PM   #201
draco159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrexmeister View Post
Looking for a recommendation of ss resonator that I can weld in the middle of 3" Stromung midpipe. Something really quiet will be helpful.
Vibrant makes a nice resonator.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:51 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draco159 View Post
Vibrant makes a nice resonator.
im looking into this same path, is the ultra quiet better than the regular bottle neck version? sometimes i feel bad for the person next to me when i drive haha
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:54 PM   #203
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Originally Posted by Pidgeon View Post
im looking into this same path, is the ultra quiet better than the regular bottle neck version? sometimes i feel bad for the person next to me when i drive haha
Haha I've heard it is a lot better than the regular version. I first saw mention of it on this site for the dreaded wagon drone around the rear diff area. One guy installed one close to there and it really helped. Though when I looked on my own car, I didn't think there was enough straight section there for a 10" long resonator. Definitely is room on the midpipe (I used to have a cutout there), but not towards the end where it curves.

I may swing by a muffler shop and see if they think it can be done since I'm no expert at fabbing up exhaust pieces.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:00 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draco159 View Post
Haha I've heard it is a lot better than the regular version. I first saw mention of it on this site for the dreaded wagon drone around the rear diff area. One guy installed one close to there and it really helped. Though when I looked on my own car, I didn't think there was enough straight section there for a 10" long resonator. Definitely is room on the midpipe (I used to have a cutout there), but not towards the end where it curves.

I may swing by a muffler shop and see if they think it can be done since I'm no expert at fabbing up exhaust pieces.
yes i was thinking about slappin one in the mid section, sometimes i love my tone other days i hate myself for running a complete straight pipe
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:55 PM   #205
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made my first set of headers at work today. quite the learning expierence for an aprentice fabricator. turned out real nice (with a little help from my "manager")
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:10 AM   #206
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Very nice man those wouldn't happen to be for a toyota 4.0 would they?

Trey
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:23 AM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treystoys View Post
Very nice man those wouldn't happen to be for a toyota 4.0 would they?

Trey
It looks like it says Cayman on the jig.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pidgeon
i have an n1 and i know its loud as crap, i want to put a resonator in the mid pipe section, to quite it down a little ..
I bought a used eBay n1 style exhaust, cut the muffler off, heated the pipe red hot and banged it in so it wouldn't hit the rear diff, then made a 45* turn down tip. And it is quieter than the exhaust with that fart cannon attached........ Yea, cutting the muffler off made it quieter ROFL! At idle it's very quiet, quieter than the new cars with SPT mufflers by far, while cruising I can talk on the phone without issue and I have a wagon. Take that for what it's worth.

It's really easy to try it yourself. Go buy about 1.5 feet of three inch pipe and one of those nice stainless exhaust band clamps. Hack your muffler off with a saw and put the pipe on the end. If you don't like it, just toss the muffler back on.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:59 PM   #209
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Interesting Hah
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:49 PM   #210
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Quote:
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Very nice man those wouldn't happen to be for a toyota 4.0 would they?

Trey
thanks!

and nope,tachrev was right. they're for the boxster/caymen. 987.2 headers w/ cat bypass. part of our race systems for those cars
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:21 PM   #211
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Thought I'd just post up another lil vid of the legy wagon in action. Sounds pretty mean


Enjoy
- Martin
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:52 AM   #212
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Hey guys, im looking to replace my catback system in my 09 2.5i...i am going to redo the piping in all 304SS but I need help on what mufflers i should buy to get a warm sound out of, nothing to glassy and ricey since i havent swapped headers yet
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:11 PM   #213
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Made a Custom Muffler delete for my 2013, my friend welded it. I need to lean how to weld lol



This was just as it was bolted on, the sound/tone has changed a bit



Compared to the Nameless Delete, mine has a much deeper tone to it.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:35 PM   #214
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It's a set of Tomei copy equal length single scroll headers cut just before the merge collector and custom twinscroll up pipe. Has two tial 38mm external gates off the up pipes that go down and loop back under the gearbox just in front of the oil pan. Dump pipe expands to 4" off he back of the turbo and stays 4" to the back of the car. There is a 5" body metalcat just under the seat that is fitted with 4" v-bands for easy removal. Only muffler is an 8" x 5" box on the back.

The setup isn't quite finished in some of the pictures and some of the others are a little fuzzy because of bad light and phone camera.



Finally have this setup running in the car... two engine builds later it's making 550whp @ 26psi

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Old 11-27-2012, 12:21 AM   #215
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Header


Downpipe


Exhaust tip (don't have pic of the full 4" aluminum exhaust)


Engine bay to date
A ton of work, but looked cool in the end!
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:47 AM   #216
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More pics..


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Old 11-27-2012, 12:53 AM   #217
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Different set-up..




Another recent one..


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Old 11-27-2012, 10:42 AM   #218
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^^^ incredible work, is that the raw finish on the pipes or do you clean them up with something?
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:58 PM   #219
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^^^ incredible work, is that the raw finish on the pipes or do you clean them up with something?
On the 304 it's the raw finish. The 321 has a rougher look to it, but i polish it to about the same finish at request.
More subaru systems, a street and a race system..



Bracket weld



Completed 321 race system. Incredibly light

Street 304 system..


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Old 11-30-2012, 12:31 PM   #220
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9Bells, what wall thickness pipes do you use?
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:50 PM   #221
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So, just a guess here cuz I've worked with similar stuff before...are you using sanitary clamps and fittings for the "v-band" connections? Either way, great stuff. Love how you're welds are not only clean but uniform throughout the system.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:01 AM   #222
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Default V-band clamps info?

Regarding V-bands: Is there an application where they are NOT the best suited?
I have headers by Full Race and two friends and I have all had issues with the headers to up-pipe connection. On the FR design this is a two into two connection that uses a head gasket. Seems like the perfect place to install two v-band clamps. I've seen where they were use on V-8 headers at the collectors.

Brands: I see a wide price range for 3" clamp sets. Vibrant runs from $70>, Godspeed for $20>, OBX for $35 and $18-$40 for the CX Racing brand.
Others?

What have you used successfully and are there Chinese rip-offs out there to look out for?
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Regarding V-bands: Is there an application where they are NOT the best suited?
I have headers by Full Race and two friends and I have all had issues with the headers to up-pipe connection. On the FR design this is a two into two connection that uses a head gasket. Seems like the perfect place to install two v-band clamps. I've seen where they were use on V-8 headers at the collectors.

Brands: I see a wide price range for 3" clamp sets. Vibrant runs from $70>, Godspeed for $20>, OBX for $35 and $18-$40 for the CX Racing brand.
Others?

What have you used successfully and are there Chinese rip-offs out there to look out for?
I've found that some of the cheap kits come with stainless clamps but mild steel flanges. The auctions are misleading.
This doesn't seem to affect seal except that you're not getting what you pay for. Also if you use vbands in ever joint the fitment needs to be spot on. Whereas you can thread a normal flange ome bolt at a time and slowly tighten each bolt, the vband clamp will not fit without the mating surfaces being flush. It can make it harder to install with even a small amount of tension.
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:15 PM   #224
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Originally Posted by reid-o View Post
if you use vbands in ever joint the fitment needs to be spot on. Whereas you can thread a normal flange ome bolt at a time and slowly tighten each bolt, the vband clamp will not fit without the mating surfaces being flush. It can make it harder to install with even a small amount of tension.
How much misalignment can you get away with?
I am not doubting you, or that there are limits, but Vibrant Performance says of their product: V-band flange assemblies feature a unique "Male/Female" design to ensure proper alignment of the flanges inside the clamp. There is also this type, where the tubing provides the alignment.
While that would not eliminate stresses due to misalignment, it would allow you to first fit it together loosely then attach header nuts to the heads and then progressively tighten the assembly. It would probably mean pulling the engine to weld the v-band flanges on in the first place or you would have to have jigged things up on an existing motor, on a stand, with turbo in place.
I want to do it, but I don't look forward to it.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:57 PM   #225
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Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
How much misalignment can you get away with?
I am not doubting you, or that there are limits, but Vibrant Performance says of their product: V-band flange assemblies feature a unique "Male/Female" design to ensure proper alignment of the flanges inside the clamp. There is also this type, where the tubing provides the alignment.
While that would not eliminate stresses due to misalignment, it would allow you to first fit it together loosely then attach header nuts to the heads and then progressively tighten the assembly. It would probably mean pulling the engine to weld the v-band flanges on in the first place or you would have to have jigged things up on an existing motor, on a stand, with turbo in place.
I want to do it, but I don't look forward to it.
It's not a huge problem if you're fabricating everything yourself.


It's just not super easy to install if you have no flex sections and all the joints are vband. Without brackets, you really need to keep all of the vband clamps slacked. The good vband flanges have an inner receiving ring that's very shallow. If you pull on one part, another will slip out and male groove won't be concentric with the female receiving groove. I would highly recommend brackets for the up pipe so that you install the up pipe and lock it in place when you go to tighten the vband. It's not like it's a nightmare or anything. It's just that the virtue of the vband is to avoid gaskets blowing out. I wouldn't say at least FWIW that it makes it a lot easier to install.

Be sure that when you fab the up pipe, you tighten the clamp down well before tacking and final welding. Make the bracket last and with the vband tightened.

I think a lot of it is because the amount of leverage that our exhaust piping has. With normal flanges on the up pipe etc..I typically thread the bolts very loose and work backwards and then tighten going in one direction. As I tighten it aligns all the subsequent joints. With vband, all of the pieces pretty much have to be in place exactly as they should be to get the clamp to go around. My current up pipe didn't have a support bracket so the whole assembly moves around as I try to place the clamp around. It was a 2 person job to hold the turbo completely still to get the clamp around. I've added brackets and a flex to the down pipe, and I can do it myself now.

Also try to avoid the habit of gunning on the vband clamps once you get it on because you want to throw the clamp against the wall. Most of the vbands use a fine thread and the impact tends to mess them up if you use the gun repeatedly. It might be good to remove with air tools, but I wouldn't pull the slack out with a gun. Trust me LOL

Last edited by reid-o; 12-01-2012 at 07:04 PM.
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