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Old 11-25-2012, 12:31 PM   #676
HinshawWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Let's start giving people sound advice: leave pressure sensor valve and passenger line alone and block-off with $3 Subaru plate sandwiched between them. Remove: air pump, valve with no sensor (2-pin valve), driver's side line and hoses and block driver's side head with a 2nd Subaru $3 plate, remove codes with Accessport Tuner Race free program, Romraider with Tactrix, or contact tuner.
Sound advice I agree, but you can note that the 2006 models do not need to retain any piece of the system, and can take it all out if they really want. 07's are the one's that have the sensor they need to retain.

And if you are lucky enough, take the whole thing out when you have the motor out!
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:32 PM   #677
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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^fixed, but you are not getting my point, I have the intake and turbo out and still choose to retain sensor with solenoid connected to under turbo/drivers side line via a block-off EGR Tribeca plate, a dangling choppedoff zip tied connector is also an eye shore and a poor and unorthodox way of doing things, not to mention potential for water ingress, loose electrical connection, etc.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 11-25-2012 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:33 AM   #678
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This is a good guide.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:52 AM   #679
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Does anyone know if some 07 STI's have a blocked-off airpump port on the *passenger* side cylinder head too?

I got my '07 back from my shop a couple months ago, and noticed a block-off plate on my passenger side head. It's not shiny or anything, and looks sort-of OEMish.

You can see part of the plate/bolt to the very right of my uppipe.

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Old 11-30-2012, 07:26 AM   #680
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Hard to tell anything from that picture. Original owner?

To my knowledge the system is the same across the board when used, so it should goto both heads without quesiton.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:44 AM   #681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HinshawWRX View Post
Hard to tell anything from that picture. Original owner?

To my knowledge the system is the same across the board when used, so it should goto both heads without quesiton.
Yes I've owned the car since brand new. I'm wondering if 07 STI's have an OEM plate and have the passenger side head blocked off from the factory, but only use 1 solenoid. (On the driver side)

I believe 07 and 08+ STI heads are different due to dual AVCS. I can't imagine my shop mixed up my heads with someone else's.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:49 PM   #682
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Why is this thread 28 pages long?
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:33 AM   #683
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I only see 18 pages on the nasioc app.

A lot of people have asked questions which have been debated and then answered.

Although I agree this thread should probably condensed and out into a new thread.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:08 AM   #684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
I only see 18 pages on the nasioc app.

A lot of people have asked questions which have been debated and then answered.

Although I agree this thread should probably condensed and out into a new thread.
no kidding, someone just do a write up for the different model years. Must of the "stickys" have info that many would consider debatable. The reason questions keep getting asked over and over is because reading 28 pages of back and forth info makes you want to just not bother anymore.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:37 PM   #685
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Its seriously as simple as following where the lines go from the sap to the engine. Of course, you need to buy the block off plates, multiple people sell them and normally are labeled by year, so that should narrow down the idea of the job.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:32 PM   #686
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Just an update to my previous post:

2007 STI's have ports on *BOTH* heads. However, the passenger side head has a block-off plate on it from the factory, as displayed in the picture below. I found this on my 2007 STI, and on my friend's '07 as well. I have also confirmed this from other 2007 STI pictures that I've found on here and IWSTI.

2007 STI passenger side head with factory block-off plate:

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Old 12-25-2012, 08:14 PM   #687
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Well as I was looking to get a etune from clark on here I sent him a mods list. and I have a 06 wrx. I have had a air pump delete for a while with no noticeable problems. He is telling me that the 06's have the pressure sensor as well... Dont really no what to think about this now. Quote "I am sorry. That information is incorrect. The atmospheric leeasure sensor is required." is his words
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:52 PM   #688
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Clark so want know a lot about these systems, nor does he like to tune for them.
Ask me how in know

~Evil
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:44 PM   #689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvileyeZ88 View Post
Clark so want know a lot about these systems, nor does he like to tune for them.
Ask me how in know

~Evil

K ill bite how do ya know?
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:09 AM   #690
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On the 06 cars there is no BAP sensor in the secondary airvalves. That is only until later.

Jasper.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:18 AM   #691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06wrx420 View Post

K ill bite how do ya know?
Tried to get a tune from Mr.Turner and he seemed very unfamiliar with the air pump system, and down right refused to tune my car with that system removed.

Anyone trying to get this CEL tuned out via eTune, Clark Turner WILL NOT tune for you, he is unfamiliar with the system and unwilling to tune (learn how) for the systems removal.

Give Stephen Clark of IA performance a call, he'll take care of you.

~Evil

Last edited by EvileyeZ88; 12-26-2012 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:51 PM   #692
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I just got the P1410 and the P2442 code P2442 is the Bank 2 relay stuck open. Is the P1410 code just the general code that there is a problem cause it basically states there is problem with the Air Injection system switching valve? Where is the Bank 2 relay located?
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:20 AM   #693
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Hello all. Thanks to everybody that's posted on this forum, although I do agree that it could be refined, but on that note, congratulations on me reading the entire thing... Holy sh.., what a mission!

Okay, so I bought a late 2005 manufactured MY06 (AUDM, as I'm in Australia), in October. Drove it away, stoked... then noticed a whining sound. I contacted the stealership and they told me that, as I lived two hours from the service centre, I should get it checked out at my next service...

Long story short, if I had taken it in when I first noticed, instead of taking their advice to "not worry about it", it would be covered under warranty.

Now here's where it gets interesting:

Not to take anything away from all the people on here that have complained about the $600 parts quote to fix this thing, but I was quoted $3759 for a new air pump

Seriously, over 3k for this thing!!!

Needless to say, I've ordered the plates from KS tech and have no intention of ever revisiting the stealership where I bought the car, but I just thought I'd let you all know, things are different down under.

Also, the MY06 down here (AUDM) appears to have the two valves, but NO PRESSURE SENSOR.

Anyway, don't wanna ramble, thanks everybody for your input, I've learnt heaps reading this single (massive) thread and it's made the decision to rip this heap of junk out a lot easier...

P.S. for the guys that keep asking "why do it, it's only 10lbs??!!", well for me, it's 4.5kgs (haha, sorry, had to) AND $3700 in parts, plus $130ph labour. Rip off merchants made the delete a no brainer.

Cheers for the good work guys, awesome site!!
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:56 AM   #694
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Literally no reason not to get rid of it. Can make the deletes yourself for 20$. Takes 35 minutes to pull pump, valves and install plates. Removes weight looks cleaner. What's not to like
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:41 AM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post
Literally no reason not to get rid of it. Can make the deletes yourself for 20$. Takes 35 minutes to pull pump, valves and install plates. Removes weight looks cleaner. What's not to like

there sure as hell IS reason to leave it in the car!!!!

if you go to trade the car and the dealer says

'you have to put all that emissions control equipment back in before we can take the car in as a trade' you are ****ed

if you JUST TURN IT OFF.....there is almost no chance of THAT biting you in the ass...EVER.

this isnt rocket science....it IS common sense.

most dont have or use any of that, though

especially those trying to drive race cars on the street
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:48 AM   #696
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Hmm, not that I'd ever trade my car in, that's a good point, except that I don't know if my valves are stuck open or closed, so if I "JUST TURN IT OFF", I'm risking the exhaust coming back through those open valves, essentially giving me open cylinder heads on my engine, not cool
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:54 AM   #697
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And thanks "stretchedk7", but unfortunately I ordered the KS Tech plates yesterday, because despite seeing mention of subaru plates for about $4 and even having a parts number for them from this very thread, I couldn't find these and bit the bullet and bought the KS Tech. Bummer.
I don't suppose you can make a new Air Pump for $20?? jokes
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:28 AM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post

there sure as hell IS reason to leave it in the car!!!!

if you go to trade the car and the dealer says

'you have to put all that emissions control equipment back in before we can take the car in as a trade' you are ****ed

if you JUST TURN IT OFF.....there is almost no chance of THAT biting you in the ass...EVER.

this isnt rocket science....it IS common sense.

most dont have or use any of that, though

especially those trying to drive race cars on the street
If you know your keeping your car there's no reason to keep it.

That's the car owners discretion.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:15 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post

If you know your keeping your car there's no reason to keep it.

That's the car owners discretion.
Unless you need your car to successfully pass the _visual_ inspection part of a biennial smog check.
I surely would not like to have to bolt/unbolt the air pump every 2 years just for a 30 minutes smog check. It's already bad enough to have to unbolt my aftermarket downpipe and bolt the stock downpipe back on.
For me, pulling out the air pump and air valves fuses while making sure the valves are closed is the most convenient solution.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:19 PM   #700
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good point. im thankful we dont have smog and all that here.
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