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Old 04-18-2012, 12:14 AM   #51
tgpatrsn
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My 2012 WRX's idle also drops low sometimes. It doesnt die but I do notice it. I flashed Cobb stage 1 and it still does it
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:40 AM   #52
doellski
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Same issue here, noticed/rough idle the dip inbetween shifting from rev erse to first!

How did the reflash go at the dealer? Did it fix the problem?
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:16 PM   #53
mr.temagami
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Its been awhile since anybody posted to this thread so I'm guessing nobody has found a solution. I just want to add that my 2011 does the same thing. I installed AP with Stage 1 OTS tune and the problem remained (intermittent before, intermittent after).
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:07 AM   #54
Tripintaz
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Has anyone ever checked the vacuum hose connected to the boost sensor? My car had this same idle issue when coming to a stop one day. I threw the AP on and noticed the ECU Was reporting 0.2 psi of boost no matter what my boost gauge showed. I popped the hood and saw the vacuum hose had popped off the sensor. Added a zip tie and problem was solved.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:17 PM   #55
CZielinski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripintaz View Post
Has anyone ever checked the vacuum hose connected to the boost sensor? My car had this same idle issue when coming to a stop one day. I threw the AP on and noticed the ECU Was reporting 0.2 psi of boost no matter what my boost gauge showed. I popped the hood and saw the vacuum hose had popped off the sensor. Added a zip tie and problem was solved.
This is a good catch here. When I had my 08 pro tuned a vacuum line kept popping off on the back of the intake. They put zip tie on it and no more problems. If one can come off so can another. I went threw and zip tied all of the vacuum lines i could find. People with AP's can go into the tunning option and adjust their idle up a bit to see if that helps.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:43 PM   #56
ryblair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznboi0204 View Post
I personally think its the tune on the stock ECU. I used to worry about this also and I hate the stock tune on these cars. So I took my 2011 STi in to get tuned at AMS. The problem is still there but no where as bad. The lowest I've seen it drop down to was 600-700 rpm from 800-900rpm at idle.
I agree I have a 2011 wrx that had the same issues. I got an ap and it actually improves, and now I'm running a pdx tune on my ap and it go even better after that but still does it a bit. If you have an ap you can change your idle but I don't wanna mess with it besides it will use more gas anyways
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:16 PM   #57
Tripintaz
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The OP said he had stage 1 OTS tune and it still does it. So those who suggested its the OEM tune you're way off.


Assuming the car did not always do this,the best thing to do is check for vacuum leaks and possibly a tiny breach in the TB to intercooler hose.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:29 PM   #58
CZielinski
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I think it has somthing to do with how the car tries to save gass. After I had my wide band installed I noticed more precisely when the car shuts off fuel when you take your foot off the gass and coast. When the rpms get low enough or you put your foot on the clutch it turns the injectors back on to keep the motor running since the wheels are not turning the motor through the trans any more. So from that I think the timing of the injectors could be a problem (bad tune) or a vacuum leak.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:37 PM   #59
icmfamous2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolie
Hi, my 2011 WRX has started hesitating a little bit when I'm coming to a stop. Just after I put the clutch in shift into neutral to come to a stop the RPMs dip to 500 or so and I can feel the stick shift vibrate a little. It feels almost like the car is going to stall for a split second and then the revs come back up to normal. Seems to be happening since the weather got colder.

Any ideas what might be causing this?
I've heard of this problem with subies long before I ever even sat behind the driver seat of one lol-- I have the same problem I don't think there's much u can do, I have a Perrin lightweight crank pulley, I'm running a shorter belt from the crank straight to the alternator (deleted power steering) and adjusted the idle with my AP to 1000rpm and had some positive results, although when I stop every so often the rpms will shoot up slightly above 1000 to almost 1300 and hold for about 5 seconds but it won't ever dope anymore
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:45 PM   #60
13_DGM_Hatch
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I have the same "problem" in my 13. Anybody think it could be something to do with the vacuum line from the brakes?
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:42 PM   #61
ryblair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icmfamous2 View Post

I've heard of this problem with subies long before I ever even sat behind the driver seat of one lol-- I have the same problem I don't think there's much u can do, I have a Perrin lightweight crank pulley, I'm running a shorter belt from the crank straight to the alternator (deleted power steering) and adjusted the idle with my AP to 1000rpm and had some positive results, although when I stop every so often the rpms will shoot up slightly above 1000 to almost 1300 and hold for about 5 seconds but it won't ever dope anymore
Just curious real quick. Was your pulley worth getting might get one. Thanks
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:37 AM   #62
ryblair
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I have read that a light weight crank pulley has smoothed out people's idle on the 08+
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:23 AM   #63
icmfamous2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryblair

Just curious real quick. Was your pulley worth getting might get one. Thanks
yeah I would say so especially for the idling problem but it may vary on the change of torque u get..... cuz I not only have the shorter belt from the alt.-crank lol My a/c doesnt work either lol--- the less stuff u have running on the belt u'll feel a definite change in how ur car preforms---- try it --- turn on everything full blast and drive ur car then delete everything if u can and drive and ull see----- it's not a crazy noticeable change but ull definitely notice
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:27 AM   #64
icmfamous2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryblair
I have read that a light weight crank pulley has smoothed out people's idle on the 08+
hey u gotta remember that it's a boxer motor so it has not 1 but 2 belts running off the crank, so less weight will help a little bit
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:36 AM   #65
icmfamous2
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I was actually just thinking maybe u can change the timing with your AP??? just something I was thinking bout...
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #66
The Salami Dealer
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check all the vacuum lines
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:07 PM   #67
younoleit
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Try using Seafoam or something similar. Perhaps the ethanol is clogging fuel line?
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:39 AM   #68
Tripintaz
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Originally Posted by younoleit View Post
Try using Seafoam or something similar. Perhaps the ethanol is clogging fuel line?

OP, go ahead and ignore everything in the above statement. It's 100% worthless.
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:29 PM   #69
eronenris
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i noticed one thing today...my car does this as others have stated but mine also does it when im at idle and i use something electrical like roll my windows up or down it drops the rpm's. i almost wonder if it an electrical problem with these cars...maybe they need a bigger battery.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:15 AM   #70
bfisher
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I have a 2008 and also suffer from similar problems.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:32 AM   #71
Tripintaz
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Guys, its just the extra drain on the motor when the A/C clutch is engaged and sometimes when the alternator has a high load. You can tune this out by adjusting the idle properties but it will waste more gas.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:41 AM   #72
dangyo
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Glad to see it was not just my car. I have experienced similar idle fluctuation on start up and at stops. It only happened a handful of times, but not recently. i just assumed it was due to the weather getting colder and possibly my tune readjusting or breaking up. Also, my car is stage 2 (ap) so its not the factory tune.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:30 PM   #73
N8er
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Here's what was wrong with mine--might apply to some of you: My 08 WRX (Cobb Stg 2 OTS map) would sometimes dip rpms and run rough at idle, like a slight misfire. If I was idling through a parking lot in 1st I'd have to be ready on the clutch in case it started lurching. Strangely it seemed fine under power, Cobb data didn't seem to show anything (that I could find anyways), no CEL or anything...It started getting more frequent recently and I finally discovered that there was a nut missing where the DP connects to the turbo. There was one other one under the shroud a bit loose but otherwise the connection was pretty tight...I buttoned it up with a couple new locking flange nuts and it runs like a dream again. This was a Cobb DP I had installed with new gasket and factory locknuts and I was pretty careful to torque everything down properly...still my fault but either way that tiny little leak that I couldn't even hear seemed to make all the difference in the world. I'm goin back to retourque them here soon. Good luck guys, I feel your pain.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:02 PM   #74
minnerex
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Hey Toolie, did you ever figure it out? Are you having similar/worsened symptoms this winter season?

My stock 2008 wrx has similar rough idle symptoms, more commonly during cold weather but also during warmer weather conditions. It happens sporadically throughout the year ever since I bought it used in 2010. More recently this winter as its gotten colder its been getting worse. I had a misfire on 3 cylinders on a cold morning a few weeks back while coming to a stop. The dealership had no clue why and couldn't replicate. Today it was -5 deg F and my vehicle stalled on multiple occassions as I was coming to a stop with the clutch in. After stalling a few times and restarting, it started working fine and I drove the rest of the way home with no problems. The car had been warmed up before driving and the temp gauge was right in the middle when the stalling began and ended.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:00 AM   #75
bddgsxr
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The exact same thing has happened to me 3 times. I don't want to scare anyone but I will share my story. 08 sti showroom stock 15k noticed drop in the rpm when coming to a stop and while at idle during the winter months. I chalked it up as cold air compensation from the ecu. About a month later while it was raining I felt like I was slipping under acceleration but it continued to happen the next day when it was dry so I realized it was engine hesitation starting from idle to redline. Took it to the dealer and found #4 piston failure (cracked ringland). Remedy was to replace one piston under warranty.

Everything seemed to be ok for a while then at 24k the same thing started to happen. RPM dropping while coming to a stop and at idle. This again was during cold months so I thought nothing but the worst. I did a compression test and found 60 psi in cylinder 4 while 140 in the rest. Back to the dealer again and this time they told me that I was at fault for doing extensive modifications to the car and they could tell because there was a problem with a bolt on the downpipe and they said it was from changing the downpipe back to stock from a non subaru approved exhaust. And they could tell all of this from a bolt that has never been seen or touched by anyone besides the subaru factory and the tech that replaced the single piston in the previous visit to the dealer. A short fight with the dealer and subaru of america mandated that I transfer the car to another dealership and have the repair covered under warranty. Remedy again was the replacement of one single piston! So at this point I am very worried about the longevity of the motor and searched for the answer to the actual problem rather than the bandaid they call the fix. Is it the stock tune, pistons being compromised, fueling issues or was it the actual block. Right after the second repair I began building a plan to completely build a motor from the ground up so it would be ready when the car either pooped its pants again or I was out of warranty. The car ran great for enough time to put my fears to rest the new piston was holding up fantastically.

Fast forward to 38k on the odometer. Cold day, bundle the kid up throw him in the car seat, open the garage, start the car (stutters on start), drive to first red light and stop, rpm drops and stumbles on idle. This is actually happening again? I wait for the car to warm up before I make any slanderous remarks about the subaru craftsmanship. After a short drive to my son's school the car is operating at normal temperature and when I pulled into the parking spot the car felt like it was going to stall. It didn't but it idled pretty rough. I had purchased an accessport that has been in the box since I got it so I decided to plug it in. After sending the kid off to school I sat in the parking lot for an hour or so figuring out how to marry it.

BAD THINGS ARE HAPPENING IN #4 AGAIN!

Last edited by bddgsxr; 01-22-2013 at 11:06 AM.
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