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Old 10-21-2012, 12:36 AM   #1
c627627
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Default Air Compressor blew Cigarette Lighter Assembly, $150 to replace?

Subaru Baja 2003: Plugged in an Air Compressor to get some air into kid's bike tire then found out the hard way that Air Compressors can blow the Cigarette Lighter out so that the entire Cigarette Assembly needs to be replaced! *This is not a Fuse problem.*

Subaru Dealership says it's $147 to order it. I asked if we could just go to the auto parts store and get the cigarette lighters listed as compatible with the car and the dealership actually tried to install them and they could not fix the problem. They said it has to be an original Subaru Baja part called Cigar Lighter Assembly. Another dealership told me the part number was 8710AE010 but when I tried to search for that Subaru part number - it did not come up with any search hits.


Can't believe it's $150 or no working cig lighter to power GPS or anything else. Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:40 AM   #2
infinite012
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Sounds like a similar problem I had with my old WRX.

Order a cigarette lighter assembly from one of the vendors. There is a fuse on the back on the socket that cannot be replaced (Subaru is smrt) so when you use high current devices, pop! The part should cost like $5+shipping.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:35 AM   #3
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The part is $26.80 on www.subarugenuineparts.com
Go there and select the parts catalog, select your vehicle and search for "lighter".
The fuse is thermal, that is why it's in the socket itself. It protects against a potential electrical fire if the socket overheats.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:21 AM   #4
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Always shop around at different dealerships for parts prices.

I live near two Subaru dealerships. One quoted me 100% higher on price vs the other one on some parts.

Maybe they gave me the list price rather than actual price but regardless I will never go back.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:22 AM   #5
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Btw this is a great pick and pull part. I bet if you pulled it and offered them 5 bucks they'd take it. I doubt it's a high traffic part.

Check to see if you have any local car yards.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:41 AM   #6
c627627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinite012 View Post
Order a cigarette lighter assembly from one of the vendors. There is a fuse on the back on the socket that cannot be replaced (Subaru is smrt) so when you use high current devices, pop! The part should cost like $5+shipping.
I have just registered on the forum, when you say, one of the vendors, can you pls post a link?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder View Post
The part is $26.80 on www.subarugenuineparts.com
Go there and select the parts catalog, select your vehicle and search for "lighter".
The fuse is thermal, that is why it's in the socket itself. It protects against a potential electrical fire if the socket overheats.
When I try to add it to cart or buy it, I can't, can you see if it is on their end or mine?
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:12 AM   #7
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Can I simply wire this to the fuse box and resolve this issue for $5, and if so, how exactly:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/auxiliary-p.../p2019663.jcwx


Or else what do I need to do to wires to run any cigarette lighter socket to battery even if it is hanging elsewhere. Nobody seems to have this part in stock. The link you provided now doesn't give me any search results.
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:32 PM   #8
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I had a radio installer, add a power receptacle for my radar detector. It cost me $20.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:10 PM   #9
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I finally figured it out. Thanks to everyone who helped me.

Here's a complete write up:

How to connect 12 Volt Power Outlet to Fuse Box



1. Ground the Black wire to metal part of the car. for example:



2. Look at your car's manual to see which fuse is not being used by your car. In the case of my Toyota Camry 2002, it was a 20A Seat Heater fuse.
Be sure to select a fuse which controls a part that is not permanently ON if you want the power to only be ON after you set the ignition power ON.

3. Get a Fuse Power Tap from your Auto Parts store, for example Part # 85606 from here:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4/85606.oapand
Connect the Red 12V line from your adaptor to it and insert one end of your fuse in between here:




so that when you put the fuse back in, it looks like this:

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Old 11-26-2012, 10:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c627627 View Post
I finally figured it out. Thanks to everyone who helped me.

Here's a complete write up:

How to connect 12 Volt Power Outlet to Fuse Box



1. Ground the Black wire to metal part of the car. for example:



2. Look at your car's manual to see which fuse is not being used by your car. In the case of my Toyota Camry 2002, it was a 20A Seat Heater fuse.
Be sure to select a fuse which controls a part that is not permanently ON if you want the power to only be ON after you set the ignition power ON.

3. Get a Fuse Power Tap from your Auto Parts store, for example Part # 85606 from here:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4/85606.oapand
Connect the Red 12V line from your adaptor to it and insert one end of your fuse in between here:




so that when you put the fuse back in, it looks like this:


That's just...bleh

Do you have any pics of what you actually did?

Is there anyway to bypass the thermal overload in the actual socket?

Mulder posted the part and it's only $27.

Did
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:26 AM   #11
c627627
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...and I posted that I could not add it to cart and now it isn't even listed any more. So no, you cannot get it for $27 when he posted that and you cannot get it for $27 now.

I installed two of those, one in the pictured Toyota Camry, and one in the Subaru Baja. They both work great so I don't know why it's 'bleh' to go from: "cough up $150 to dealership" vs have nothing in the Subaru to actually being able to plug in a cell phone or a GPS in the Subaru on account of the $5 part I put in as pictured.


I pictured everything exactly as it should be connected and it works, I took pictures so that I have a reference if I ever have to do this again, there is nothing else to take a pictures of, it's a matter of where to connect the red and the black wires to and how.



Separately, for ten bucks (!) I got a Pyle 20 Feet 8 Gauge 1000 Watts Amp Kit on Amazon. The Kit is terrible for actual amp installs but I get everything I need for the cig lighter install, right?


In other words, can I use that amp kit and just connect the battery to existing Subaru Baja non-working cig lighter? The fuse comes with the kit, all I need is something to connect the amp kit wire from battery, right? The existing cig lighter does not work due to the way it was designed with fuse right on it, as I understand?

So why not take the amp kit wire, connect one end to battery, use the amp kit fuse, then simply connect the other end to any cig lighter socket? Can I sue the existing Subaru Baja cig lighter socket or do I have to get another one?
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:28 AM   #12
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I'm not a big fan of jerry rigging something and hoping for the best, especially when the fix isn't "that" hard if it is the fuse attached to the cig lighter. The "fuse" on the back of the cig lighter is just a very thin wire, like a filament, and if it gets too hot it breaks, thus not being replaceable like a fuse. I personally have had the "fuse" blow and have taken out the old cig lighter in and installed a new one, though on a WRX.

There are a few helpful dealerships on this board. I've had nothing but great experiences with both Annapolis Subaru and Fred Beans Subaru. If you need help with any parts, give these guys a call or even a PM on the boards. They'll help with part numbers and give very competitive prices on the parts. Good luck if you do tend to try and fix it properly.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:47 AM   #13
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Fist of all, I completely agree with you that this should not be the only and permanent solution. I view this as a temporary backup measure just so a GPS can be used in a time of emergency. Electrical tape should at least be used to cover the exposed wires etc.


Second, this is not an issue of unhelpful dealership, I've called three Subaru dealerships, the part is $150, it's the way it was made - it's what it costs, they have to order it.


I understand I cannot do anything other than have the original part, which I cannot get for less than $150.


Having said that, what about the amp kit and directly connecting the battery to a new cig lighter? My only question was, can I connect the wire from the kit to the old cig fuse or not?
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:41 PM   #14
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I would be worried about burning my car down with the way that's tapped off a fuse.

You can install a circuit right off the battery as long as you use an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible on the positive side.

I've never looked at the back of the factory cig lighter, but is there anyway you could solder a copper jumper in place of the thermal fuse that burned out.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagnt54 View Post
I would be worried about burning my car down with the way that's tapped off a fuse.

You can install a circuit right off the battery as long as you use an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible on the positive side.

I've never looked at the back of the factory cig lighter, but is there anyway you could solder a copper jumper in place of the thermal fuse that burned out.
That is how you burn a car down...there is nothing wrong with the way he tapped off the fuse as long as the tap is on the correct side of the fuse.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:13 PM   #16
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No the circuit is still fused at the main panel, there is a second fuse at the cig lighter. I imagine the second fuse is there in case for some reason the lighter doesn't pop out while the element is heating to keep it from burning things in the area of that, not from pulling too many Amps.

Even if he is on the load side of the fuse, he has jammed two things into that fuse socket and it now has the potential for a loose or high resistant connection. A high resistant connection will generate quite a bit of heat, enough to melt the plastic and surround insulation in that fuse panel, which is a quick way to burn your car down.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:30 PM   #17
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If you want to tap off a fuse this is much safer kind to use.


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Old 11-27-2012, 10:29 PM   #18
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Can you link to this item ↑, where can it be bought?

Quote:
Originally Posted by byronchrisp05 View Post
...there is nothing wrong with the way he tapped off the fuse as long as the tap is on the correct side of the fuse.
How can you tell correct side from wrong side?


Also, let's clarify the burning the car down thing, no one wants that.

1. On the Toyota Camry, the absolute only reason I did it is to connect a Radar Detector to it, it only comes on when the car is on. It is connected to the Seat Heater 20A fuse and there is no Seat Heater in the Camry. Do you still stand by your assessment that the car will burn down even if only a radar detector is connected and only when the car is on and only to a fuse not in use by anything else?


2. On the Subaru Baja, the absolute only reason I did it is to connect a GPS, while I figure out what to do, and it only comes on while the car is on. It is connected to the Cig Lighter 20A fuse and there is no Cig Lighter in use any more. Does that change your opinion in that case?
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c627627
Can you link to this item ↑, where can it be bought?
I just looked up 'fuse tap' on amazon and found about twenty of them as I should get some too.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c627627 View Post
Can you link to this item ↑, where can it be bought?



How can you tell correct side from wrong side?


Also, let's clarify the burning the car down thing, no one wants that.

1. On the Toyota Camry, the absolute only reason I did it is to connect a Radar Detector to it, it only comes on when the car is on. It is connected to the Seat Heater 20A fuse and there is no Seat Heater in the Camry. Do you still stand by your assessment that the car will burn down even if only a radar detector is connected and only when the car is on and only to a fuse not in use by anything else?


2. On the Subaru Baja, the absolute only reason I did it is to connect a GPS, while I figure out what to do, and it only comes on while the car is on. It is connected to the Cig Lighter 20A fuse and there is no Cig Lighter in use any more. Does that change your opinion in that case?
I believe they can be bought at most auto part stores.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=32416_0_0_

1. You can use a meter to check which side of the fuse you need to be on. There is a "line" side and a "load" side, with the fuse removed, the line side will have voltage and the load side will not. You need to be on the load side which is protected by the fuse.

2. While I still recommend switching to the "tap-a-fuse" I posted, I wouldn't rush out to do it. Since the stuff you have plugged in doesn't use much power and there isn't any other heavy loads ( heaters, fans, or lights) on it the chances of you having a problem are slim to none. Assuming that your tap is on the load side of the fuse.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:26 AM   #21
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I do not know which side I am on, and was concerned about comments posted here about that.

I have gotten advice that leaving it alone working as it is, is probably the best thing to do:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...-fuse-box.html
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:03 PM   #22
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If you want to know if you're on the correct side quick and easy.

1. Do turn your car on or whatever you need to do to power your radar.
2. Pull the fuse, leaving your tap inside the fuse block.
3. If you still get power to your radar without the fuse, its on the wrong side.
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