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Old 11-05-2012, 04:20 AM   #51
SJ9ninety
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This write up is perfect! Exactly what I was looking for!
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:49 PM   #52
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Hey Overland, thanks for the tutorial, it really helped! I did have a question about the front bushing though. I have some slop when the nut is tightened and I have read in the scoobymods thread that it's nothing to worry about. Do you or anyone else know if this is correct? Basically the front mount will shift left/right a little more than a 1/16".

Thanks!
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester8798 View Post
Hey Overland, thanks for the tutorial, it really helped! I did have a question about the front bushing though. I have some slop when the nut is tightened and I have read in the scoobymods thread that it's nothing to worry about. Do you or anyone else know if this is correct? Basically the front mount will shift left/right a little more than a 1/16".

Thanks!
Hey jester, glad the write-up worked out for you.
I have a little play in that front bushing but if it's tight and the washer on the sides are installed, there isn't much left to do.
It's all good.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:50 PM   #54
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Okay, I just wanted to double check. There isn't ton of play just a little side to side.

Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:56 AM   #55
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Has anyone else had issues with the rear bushing bolts? I was able to get everything tightened up but it's like the bolt hole spacing on the bushing isn't quite the same as the holes on the body/OEM bushing.

Other than the above comment I'm very happy with the feel of the shifter so far!
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:50 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester8798 View Post
Has anyone else had issues with the rear bushing bolts? I was able to get everything tightened up but it's like the bolt hole spacing on the bushing isn't quite the same as the holes on the body/OEM bushing.

Other than the above comment I'm very happy with the feel of the shifter so far!
I've been struggling with that for the last hour...
I'm out of daylight and crawling around under the car with a flashlight. I can only get one in or the other, never both.

Can anyone tell me how bad it would be to drive like this with only one of the two bolts tightened down until I can get it to a shop with a lift?
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:59 PM   #57
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I totally wouldn't drive with one bolt it. If it slides down you might not be able to get it in first or second gear.

We all had trouble getting this bolt in bit it's doable. You'll need to get one side in just a couple threads then do the other one. I used a deep socket and extension to help pry the bolt over as I got the threads started on the second bolt. Once you get them both threaded in, then start to tighten them. It's definitely tough on jack stands but that's how I did mine so I know it's possible, don't give up man!!

Good luck!!
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:59 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04
I totally wouldn't drive with one bolt it. If it slides down you might not be able to get it in first or second gear.

We all had trouble getting this bolt in bit it's doable. You'll need to get one side in just a couple threads then do the other one. I used a deep socket and extension to help pry the bolt over as I got the threads started on the second bolt. Once you get them both threaded in, then start to tighten them. It's definitely tough on jack stands but that's how I did mine so I know it's possible, don't give up man!!

Good luck!!
I was working late on this one last night and ended up with a stripped mounting point. I talked to a local Subaru shop and he said it would be alright to drive as is (obviously no hard shifting/driving) until I can get the car in the shop.

Side note, apparently this happens with the Kartboy bushings from time to time. I was recommended the Group N bushing instead as it has the same metal mount as the factory unit just with a stiffer compound. From what I'm told it makes threading these bolts much easier.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:07 AM   #59
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The main issue with the Kartboy rear bushing is that it has a flat mounting surface. But the surface you're mounting it to isn't flat! The bolts actually have to be tilted inwards before they'll line up with the bolt holes. If you don't do this it is very easy to screw them in crooked and cross thread the holes.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:11 AM   #60
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A quick search, and this was the best photo I could find:



If you look at the heads on the bolts you should be able to tell that they are not going in "straight". I'm not sure why all the poly bushings are made this way. Probably just being cheap.

I'll try to get better photos of this someday when I have time.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:39 AM   #61
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Being cheap? No, its how the draft of the part has to be done so it can be released out of the mold. simple as that. If it was a poor design why had everyone COPIED our design?

The mount is straight just like the OEM one( the OEM one is a thin stamped metal so its not really in issue. The mounting base( tunnel) is at a slight angle so you will always want to go perpendicular to the part you are bolting to. the angle on the bottom is for drivetrain clearance Clarance.

Hope that clears some things up.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:36 PM   #62
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when ever installing this bushing you should always make sure you start each bolt a little at a time. i have installed doz of these things for friends and why they suck to install due to the location i feel the design is fine. never once had an issue installing them.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:06 PM   #63
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Hey Tom,

Is the front bushing play mentioned above okay? I figured it was probably due to build and bushing variations. I could take up the gap with a washer if needed. I've searched around and found a few other posts and the consensus is that it's okay....right?

Thanks.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:44 PM   #64
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installed my kartboy shifter today noticed it rubbed the boot when going into 1st and 3rd... i lightly greased the linkage rod and tucked up the black rubber boot then retightend all 4 bolts to the metal bracket. so far its perfect! just got to take some time to get used to the difference from stock shifter.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:10 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1CkWrx View Post
installed my kartboy shifter today noticed it rubbed the boot when going into 1st and 3rd... i lightly greased the linkage rod and tucked up the black rubber boot then retightend all 4 bolts to the metal bracket. so far its perfect! just got to take some time to get used to the difference from stock shifter.
Awesome!! Glad you got the rubbing situation figured out.
The shifter is great isn't it?!?
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:19 PM   #66
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Love it! Debating to do the bushings or not. It feels pretty damn solid to me now.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:35 AM   #67
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Get the bushings
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:30 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1CkWrx
Love it! Debating to do the bushings or not. It feels pretty damn solid to me now.
Bushings make a huge difference. I noticed more change with the shifter bushings than I did with the transmission mount and crossmember bushings.

Last edited by Elky; 01-02-2013 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:52 PM   #69
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sorry to intrude on your thread. but how would it make it better? it seems very notchy now... unless thats normal? 2nd/3rd is alot harder along with 4th to 5th. but 5th gear was always a bit harder with the regular shifter.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:15 AM   #70
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I'm going to install this shifter and bushings in my 4-door this weekend. 2 questions:

1. Would putting the front wheels on a set of ramps leave me adequate room underneath to get the bar out/bushings in?

2. Would it be a good idea to put some non-permanent loctite on the pivot bolt since the torque specs are so low? And would there be an easy way to approximate the appropriate torque on this bolt without a torque wrench?

Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:52 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foolycooly View Post
I'm going to install this shifter and bushings in my 4-door this weekend. 2 questions:

1. Would putting the front wheels on a set of ramps leave me adequate room underneath to get the bar out/bushings in?

2. Would it be a good idea to put some non-permanent loctite on the pivot bolt since the torque specs are so low? And would there be an easy way to approximate the appropriate torque on this bolt without a torque wrench?

Thanks.
Depending on the type of ramps you have and their height you should be able to get away with the install. The tough part will be getting the heat shield out with only the front of the car off the ground. Best would be to ramp the front and use jack stands for the rear if possible.
Definitely possible without the rear but just a little harder.

That would be a nice thing to do with the loctite. I haven't had a problem with the bolt coming loose but with such a low torque setting it couldn't hurt. You can tell how tight to make the bolt by making it tight than backing out a full turn. If there is any slop, you can tighten little by little until it's gone. If you are too tight, you'll start to notice it getting stiff between first shifts so you can back off a bit. It wasn't an exact science since I didn't have a torque wrench that went down that low either.

Send me a PM if you run into issues during the install.
Cheers!

- Jason
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:32 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04 View Post
Depending on the type of ramps you have and their height you should be able to get away with the install. The tough part will be getting the heat shield out with only the front of the car off the ground. Best would be to ramp the front and use jack stands for the rear if possible.
Definitely possible without the rear but just a little harder.

That would be a nice thing to do with the loctite. I haven't had a problem with the bolt coming loose but with such a low torque setting it couldn't hurt. You can tell how tight to make the bolt by making it tight than backing out a full turn. If there is any slop, you can tighten little by little until it's gone. If you are too tight, you'll start to notice it getting stiff between first shifts so you can back off a bit. It wasn't an exact science since I didn't have a torque wrench that went down that low either.

Send me a PM if you run into issues during the install.
Cheers!

- Jason
Sad to say that I was defeated by the bushings today. I could not for the life of me get the heat shield off. I got 3 of the four bolts off, but the drivers side front bolt would not break loose. It was complicated by near impossible access--There was no room to get a socket on the bolt and I couldn't break it free with a small ratcheting box wrench. All open ended wrenches were too big and I just could not get an angle on it.

I chained 2 extensions together to get to the rear bushing bolts without removing the heat shield but I could only turn the passenger side bolt a tiny bit at a time and could not get to the drivers side at all without getting that last heat shield bolt off.

Jack stands on the rear would have helped as it was super cramped underneath with only ramps on the front wheels.

The shifter itself makes a nice difference--definitely shorter throws and I like the moderate reduction in height. This part was pretty simple.

I am going to have to wait until I can get down to a friend's who has access to a lift. I will probably do the bushings when I install a new TBE and go stage 2 in a couple of months. Removing the exhaust will certainly make removing the heat shield easier.

How did everyone get to those front heat shield bolts?
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:37 AM   #73
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I was able to do the heat shield bolts w/ a 12mm box end wrench. Car was on jackstands in the front only, with melting snow dripping on my face. Not saying I didn't cut my hands up and swear a lot. But yeah, not everyone has a lift.

Rear bushing was a PITA but finally doable. You have to barely thread one bolt in, then thread the other bolt. Then ratchet one-click-at-a-time.

Blue Loctite on the front bushing nut and shifter nut. Not something I would like to worry about.

Some people are worried about noise? Personally, I love the transmission whirr, it sounds awesome. Reminds me of what I paid for.

Great product, I enjoy it every time I drive!

Last edited by scrabby; 02-17-2013 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:50 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrabby View Post
I was able to do the heat shield bolts w/ a 12mm box end wrench. Car was on jackstands in the front only, with melting snow dripping on my face. Not saying I didn't cut my hands up and swear a lot. But yeah, not everyone has a lift.

Rear bushing was a PITA but finally doable. You have to barely thread one bolt in, then thread the other bolt. Then ratchet one-click-at-a-time.

Blue Loctite on the front bushing nut and shifter nut. Not something I would like to worry about.

Some people are worried about noise? Personally, I love the transmission whirr, it sounds awesome. Reminds me of what I paid for.

Great product, I enjoy it every time I drive!
Thanks for the input, I feel you did a good job explaining the rear bushing install a lot better then I did. It's definitely not fun doing the install without a lift but I, like you have to do things on the floor
Enjoy shifting!!
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:54 PM   #75
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Just did this over the weekend. If you're a novice -- like me -- leave yourself some extra time for everything. Not only will you want to panic a few times as you see the linkage out of the car, but you'll also find yourself a bit claustrophobic when you remove it. Also, if you have meat hooks any larger than that of the average girl scout, you'll want to budget some extra time to get the new bushings in place and threaded correctly. The rear one won't want to thread in there right, but if you have some patience and get the fronts set you should be able to get it done. And use some blue loctite for the low-torque bolts as a just in case. Also, just make sure to have the right tools -- the snap ring pliers are a must (I have a couple pairs and there was one variation that worked best), and have a little zip tie handy for the wire that you're going to find holding the rubber shifter shroud to the shifter itself. Just clip the wire and replace it with the zip tie.

As for replacing the shifter and not the bushings...no question, replace the bushings. My 2011 wagon only had 18K on it and the stock rear bushing was garbage. Honestly, it had the consistency and stickiness of a cold gummy bear, so I can't imagine it would get much better in the summer months. The new polyurethane ones are much stiffer and will last you forever -- and really bring the short throw experience to life. In my opinion, the bushings are far more important than the shifter itself -- they tighten everything down.

Other than that, allow yourself adequate time to bandage up your knuckles, enjoy a couple beers, and marvel at your accomplishment.
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