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Old 12-03-2012, 02:14 AM   #701
kpluiten
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Driverside continuted:

I then installed the sensor and gasket in the head and used a little gasket maker silicon for a good seal between the sensor and the gasket as well as the gasket and the head:






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Last edited by kpluiten; 12-03-2012 at 02:20 AM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:29 AM   #702
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Passenger side:

The passenger side modification is much easier since the head requires no modification and the sensor requires only minimal work.

Here is where the USDM sesnor sits in the EJ207 head relative to the USDM cam:


Here is the sensor mounting hole relative to the threaded hole on the head. The hole must be moved toward the body of the sensor. I used the same method as I did with the driver side head.




A bolt with a smaller head was needed as the flange on the factory bolt was now too large and would contact the sensor body.


Centered over the hole now:


Lastly, the USDM sensor is slightly smaller in diameter than the JDM sensor so I used a thicker oring on the USDM sensor to make a good seal in the larger hole.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:34 AM   #703
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I ran into another small issue with the USDM camshaft in the EJ207 head; the friction weld curl on the USDM camshaft barely contacted part of the AVCS bracket. This issue did not present itself on Alex's swap. The fix was simply enough; I added some relief to the AVCS mount.





Relief added:
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:58 AM   #704
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On this conversion, I only swapped the intake cams out with the USDM ones. Any time you swap cams, its probably good practice to check your bucket to camshaft clearances. Jay helped me do this. While we were in there, we decided to check the exhaust clearances as well, even though in theory, those should be fine from the factory.

This table shows the clearance specs (lower limit, nominal, and upper limit) and formulas prescribed by the FSM. I put this table together in Excel as part of a master speadsheet that automatically calculated clearances and selected the proper bucket size for a desired clearance.


For the initial measurement, we threw whatever buckets into whatever valve hole as a baseline. There are reflected in the left most columns under each heading. From there I calculated theoretical bucket size needed at a series of desired clearances. This was more academic than anything else.


This last table shows the calculated buckets needed to perfectly achieve the 0.008" intake and 0.010 exhaust clearances on each valve. Since the buckets are only available in whole numbers, I had the choice to select the next smallest or next largest whole number. Each increment (ex. 501 -> 502) in bucket size represents 0.01mm or 3 thousandths of an inch, so not much. In a few instances, I selected a bucket that was a bit larger or smaller than the most ideal size because it was readily available and I didn't want to have to buy a ton of buckets. A big thanks to Jay on this one for letting me raid his bucket collection.

Ultimately, you can see the bucket size I selected, and the resulting clearance. Then you can see my actual measured clearance for each valve. Not too bad!


Many shops/guys will run extra tight clearances to "add to" or "act as" a slightly larger cam profile, but this has its drawbacks. For one, your buckets tend to wear out faster and can split/break with time/wear. Another possibility is that as things expand with heating, a tight valve might not fully seat and give you lower compression in that cylinder. Lastly, your valves cool the most when they are shut (in contact with the head). If they stay open too much, they can be burnt with time. For these reasons, I decided not to go fancy and simply use the Subaru nominal values.

Here are the completed heads:






Lastly, Jay helped me install a new Gates timing belt kit. The stock components seemed brand new on this car (only 14K miles), but I figured this was as good a time as ever to draw a line in the sand and install a new setup.


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Old 12-03-2012, 03:36 AM   #705
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Well that's definitely the biggest hodge podge of crap thown together with mis matched cams that does not run correctly I've ever seen.




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Old 12-03-2012, 07:49 AM   #706
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I'm with Erik. This **** will never run! Your wasting your time. Too many bits!

But on a side note you shouldn't have any problems with them working. My cams and sensors look the same from the pictures. Now hurry up so we can start the o
Official running a 207 on a 32 bit thread ;-)


Ps your plate better say "lol Clark" or 2 many bits" or " Wtf"
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:51 AM   #707
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BTW make sure you prime the **** out of it so the avcs retardes itself back to zero or it won't start. Lol ask me how I know. Hehehe
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:06 AM   #708
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Ken that Throttle body plate is amazing. Good work man
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:45 AM   #709
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Wow Ken, just wow. Very detailed. My brain hurts. I'm impressed at how much thought has gone into this build. I like how you are thinking outside of the box. I hope this thing screams and that you prove some of the "experts" wrong haha.
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:44 AM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik View Post
Well that's definitely the biggest hodge podge of crap thown together with mis matched cams that does not run correctly I've ever seen.
That's what they tell me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amroof View Post
I'm with Erik. This **** will never run! Your wasting your time. Too many bits!

But on a side note you shouldn't have any problems with them working. My cams and sensors look the same from the pictures. Now hurry up so we can start the o
Official running a 207 on a 32 bit thread ;-)


Ps your plate better say "lol Clark" or 2 many bits" or " Wtf"
If we do start this 16-bit EJ207 in 32-bit car thread, I can have more adapter plates made for the rails and throttle body. It might be slightly more expensive than welding up the manifold, but it would be easier for most I think. I could also make a cutting template for the driver side head modification; perhaps a small metal template you bolt to the sensor mounting hole and then trace the modified hole profile onto the head.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amroof View Post
BTW make sure you prime the **** out of it so the avcs retardes itself back to zero or it won't start. Lol ask me how I know. Hehehe
I was wondering about this. This motor is really, really dry by now as it's been on the rack for a few months in every conceivable angle. The other part of this is how I will prime the oil cooler. It has a thermostat that should prevent oil from going into it until the motor is warmed up. I'd hate to have a huge burst of air go through the system when that opens up for the first time... I'm going to try to pre-fill it to the best of my ability I think.

I got the plate "AWDACTY" a play on the words AWD and Audacity.

audacity/ˈdasitē/
Noun:
1) The willingness to take bold risks.
2) Rude or disrespectful behavior; impudence.



Quote:
Originally Posted by amroof View Post
Ken that Throttle body plate is amazing. Good work man
Thank you. I got to put it on the actual intake manifold this weekend (the powdercoating was a disaster, but that's enough for another whole thread... ), and it fit perfectly. I'll have the gaskets this week for final fitment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SaabaruMike View Post
Wow Ken, just wow. Very detailed. My brain hurts. I'm impressed at how much thought has gone into this build. I like how you are thinking outside of the box. I hope this thing screams and that you prove some of the "experts" wrong haha.
Thanks. With my luck it will blow up on the first start up though.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:10 PM   #711
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^ lol.

I'm interested to see how the modification to the cam position sensor plays out. With the stupid aem ems,I had to reduce the air gap between the sensor and pickup points for cam and crank sensors. Factory subi ecu's have higher tolerances to changes in the hall sensor readings and will still sync (to an extent) with variances in air gap. I'm not sure if due to the slight difference in position of the sensor and difference in pickup points if you'll encounter issues with getting a solid reading by the ecu. Most likely you will be fine but if there is any issue you might have to look into finding out the specs for the sensor gap and getting it to that with a feeler gauge.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:14 PM   #712
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Dude, if I can successully build a couple motors then you can too. It seems like a good portion of the "pros" end up running on autopilot and overlooking lots of details when building motors for customers. I was told by several that my GN would not be capable of running 11's without 116 octane. I was told 11.80's at best with a good 60ft. I ran 11.60's with a 2.2 60ft on 91 octane and a little meth with only 18-19psi and conservative timing. I have another 50-70hp I can get out of it with more meth, more boost, and good tuning. I attribute how strong it runs to me taking the time to make an educated decision on ring gap, setting the valve preload identical on every singe valve instead of just ordering pushrods based on one measurement, hand porting my intake to match every port perfectly, etc. I'm sure you're building this motor because of how your last one was slapped together by a "professional".
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:35 PM   #713
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Good feedback, DJ. I will check a stock head tonight to see what the factory spacing is.

While I'm posting pictures, here are a few more from the setting of the bucket clearances. Again, Jay was a huge help while doing this.

Assembly lube being added:


Checking initial clearances:




Head masked off for the sensor hole modification. I don't know how a bird got into my garage.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:49 PM   #714
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On the passenger side of the engine bay, I have a few things that need to be mounted, mainly the Innovate LC-1 wideband controller and the Angry Roo EBCS. The car comes from the factory with a stamped metal part in this rear that I probably could have used, but its not an ideal solution and it looks cluttered. I decided to make my own mounting plate in this location to mount these two items.

I started with a paper template to get the shape right. I'm using the existing factory mounting holes to attach the plate to the strut tower.


I thought rounded corners looked best:


Next I traced the paper shape onto a piece of 0.125" aluminum and cut it out with an angle grinder. I then finished the edges with a light sanding to remove burrs.


With the mounting holes drilled:


I made spacers from washers and tubing (from my fuel system). All of it is stainless of course.




Here is it compared to the factory piece:


The controller and solenoid will be mounted to this part something like this:


I will probably run the wires behind the plate for a slightly cleaner look. I'm leaving everything loose right now until I have the motor in, in case I need to move stuff around. I will paint the mounting plate a metallic gunmetal color that matches my master cylinder brace, coolant tank, and AC/PS/alternator brackets.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:13 PM   #715
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Here are some random shots of the Cusco master cylinder brace. I love this part. It prevents the master cylinder/firewall from flexing during heavy braking. This makes your pedal feel stiffer and more controlled. While it doesn't improve actual braking, it does improve feel and confidence int he brake system. It came in a ****ty not-quite-WRB color and it was flaking off so I stripped it and repainted it metallic gunmetal with a clear coat. I masked off the original Cusco sticker because I thought it looked kind of neat.

(Note: the bolt that holds the master cylinder wasn't installed yet. It is now.)




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Old 12-03-2012, 03:30 PM   #716
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A few weeks ago I also installed a hood lifter/hood strut system. I've wanted one of these for a long time and actually bought this setup about 2 years ago. I finally got around to installing it. :facepalm:

The kit is made by Redline tuning and is different compared to about 99% of the Impreza GD kits out there. It requires drilling and I think this turns most off to it, but the kit is very high quality with name brand, OEM quality actuators and powder coated mounts. Their install instructions and support of second to none.

No, the actuators are not chrome, or branded Tein, or wrapped in carbon fiber. They are simple, high quality, rust-free systems and you pay a bit more to get them. Fortunately I found this setup used.

Here is their website: http://www.redlinetuning.com/

For the install you need:
Drill
Drill bits
Rivet gun
Center punch (helps, but not required)
Sockets or Nut driver
Tape measure
Tape
Marker

The screws, rivets and measurements are all provided with the kit. The instructions have full color photos. Nice.


The hood mounts require the drilling of 3 holes for each side. The brackets are installed with rivets.

Rivets placed in holes:


Rivets installed:


The lower mounts require the drilling of two holes and are installed with 2 stainless sheet metal screws per side.


Then you simple install the struts and retention clips and you're ready to go:




Again, mine are a bit scuffed up because they were used and the previous owner was a bit rough with them.

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:43 PM   #717
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I need those, won't have to worry about the getting the snapped bolt out from my tein ones.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:24 PM   #718
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Ahhh the quality and insanely detailed work by an engineer who cares.

Coming along nicely Ken.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:48 PM   #719
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I forgot to post this in here when I first did the data collection, but here is a comparison of the EJ255/257 cams to the EJ207 cams.

Without much data available on the OEM cams and their specs (or more specifically, a lot of rumors), I decided to gather my own.

So far, I have acquired the following cams:
EJ257/255 (Thanks, Jay!)
EJ207 V8 Spec-C
EJ207 V9 (Thanks, Alex!)

Here are my results:

Method:
I made a fixture out of wood. The cam supports were cut to support the shaft on the 38mm and 30mm journal sections and keep the center line of the shaft parallel to the desk top. After repeated loading and unloading of the fixture, the method proved repeatable and stable. I performed each test with the help of a friend (Thanks Mac!), who double checked my data.





Results:
EJ257/255 Cams have greater lift on the intake side. The exhaust cam is nearly identical to the two sets of EJ207 cams, with a slight bit more lift. Both sets of EJ207 cams are virtually identical, which is to be expected based on part numbers.

Lift is easily measured with calipers, but what I was really curious about was duration. If you've ever shopped for cams, you know every manufacturer has their own methods and standards for determining duration.

In the domestic world, which has spilled into the import world, it is common for manufacturers to specify duration from 0.01 inches through the lift cycle, back to a lift of 0.01 inches. The reasoning behind this is that any lift below 0.01" is not significant for flow and should not be considered.

In the import world, different values are used. Some measure from the first hint of lift (as I did below) and others measure from 1.0mm or 1.3mm or other combination measurements meant to give a feel for the shape of the lift curve.

This is all very hard to comprehend by reading a spec sheet. Because of this, I decided it would be useful to simply plot the whole lift cycle for various cams and overlay them. The area under the curve is what I think is important and can tell a good amount about the cams.

Please note that my "duration" is simply from first lift to last lift. This value will be much greater than what the manufacturers specify for the reasons listed above. Crankshaft duration is double cam duration due to the ratio for the crank turns to the camshaft (count your pulley teeth if you don't believe (24:48)). Again, my duration value isn't as important as the plotted data.








Feedback is welcomed. I am learning as I go with this and I'm simply trying to add to our knowledge base here.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:24 PM   #720
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Haha, do you just have dial indicators and such just laying around for these occasions or do you use them for work? JK, Awesome work man! This is great stuff, especially for people looking to do a similar swap.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:02 AM   #721
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Quote:
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Haha, do you just have dial indicators and such just laying around for these occasions or do you use them for work? JK, Awesome work man! This is great stuff, especially for people looking to do a similar swap.
I never miss an opportunity to buy a new tool/measurement device. I have quite a few now. I still have access to much better stuff at work, but the stuff you see above is mine.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:12 AM   #722
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Love the thread, so much time and work that makes all of our subies jealous.
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:26 PM   #723
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Too bad it's a fake 207 Ken, only a crazy person would think you could make it work by swapping cams and a few sensors.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:02 PM   #724
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This thread is so nerdy. I like it. I like it a lot.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:41 PM   #725
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I noticed you like the lime green accents. Paranoid fabrications in CA sells exhaust hangers in this color, same design as the Kartboy hangers. I am need to see this build in person hopefully at a meatz soon. Keep up the jamz brah
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