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Old 08-16-2012, 08:59 AM   #26
Blitzcrank
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Sounds like a stiff rebound setting.

Reducing the rebound dampening will get rid of what both you are calling 'bounciness' and the feeling of the vehicle dipping on the highway for 'no apparent reason' (the reason is because the road surface has 'dips').
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzcrank View Post
Sounds like a stiff rebound setting.

Reducing the rebound dampening will get rid of what both you are calling 'bounciness' and the feeling of the vehicle dipping on the highway for 'no apparent reason' (the reason is because the road surface has 'dips').
thanks but I don't have the ability to adjust that. Just height. I checked fronts last night and I was about 16mm below spec. I didn't drive it in today but will tomorrow to see if that did the trick!
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:02 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
if you are using the stock front strut tops

THROW THEM AWAY AND GET AT LEAST GROUP N FRONT TOPS

the stock front strut tops are A HUGE source of **** in the suspension and must be disposed of as quickly as possible
haha wow really are they that bad??? lol

What are the obvious differences? ? Better response? I do feel somewhat of a mushiness is the steering now..almost like a delay in response.... I was considering replacing them at some point ..sort of tapped out at the moment

Also what changes if the rear tops are also replaced? Just wondering?
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:14 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzcrank View Post

Reducing the rebound dampening will get rid of what both you are calling 'bounciness' and the feeling of the vehicle dipping on the highway for 'no apparent reason' (the reason is because the road surface has 'dips').
That is the EXACT feeling tho! Yea I figured the surface dips but I shouldn't be feeling it to that level lol, like my stomach was moving up and down I could get sea sick. After rears were raised I only got sea sick on the front half of me lol. I think i was too low and hitting the bump stops. Oh wells If I want to be a low rider I have to get the right equipment or get sea sick haha thanks!
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:12 AM   #30
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Silverbullet.
If you cannot visually see these 'dips' from within your car (Which is what your comments indicate) then it is very unlikely that you are hitting your bumpstops on these dips.
I seriously doubt that the feeling of bounciness or vehicle dipping is caused by or will change with different strut top mounts.

As you state, unfortunately you do not have the ability to externally adjust the rebound dampening.
While there may be other ways to reduce this feeling or discomfort in the ride, I believe that the best way (not considering money) would be to have a revalve with the rebound dampening reduced.

Other ways may include changing: tire pressures, seats, springs, tire profile (wheel size), raising or lowering of the suspension.

Basically, this is the way that your coilovers are. Nothing will change their current characteristics other than springs or valving.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:11 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blitzcrank View Post
Silverbullet.
If you cannot visually see these 'dips' from within your car (Which is what your comments indicate) then it is very unlikely that you are hitting your bumpstops on these dips.
I seriously doubt that the feeling of bounciness or vehicle dipping is caused by or will change with different strut top mounts.

As you state, unfortunately you do not have the ability to externally adjust the rebound dampening.
While there may be other ways to reduce this feeling or discomfort in the ride, I believe that the best way (not considering money) would be to have a revalve with the rebound dampening reduced.

Other ways may include changing: tire pressures, seats, springs, tire profile (wheel size), raising or lowering of the suspension.

Basically, this is the way that your coilovers are. Nothing will change their current characteristics other than springs or valving.
This is starting to depress me. I drove my 370z yesterday on these same roads... which also has a stiff ride but I am not getting this after effect. Then I drive my wrx which has somewhat improved that I raised it up, but this issue is by no means gone. I will speak to manufacturer again about my measurements to see if I am measuring correctly.
I'm going to ask some novice questions now:
So where should my tire pressures be at to help?
What are seats?
As far as tire profile goes, I have these stock 17s that are not the standard ones that you see on my model. I think they must be a factory upgrade that no one ever gets. So the tires are whatever comes with them. No real low profile or anything.

I just don't' see how anyone would want these if this is just how they are. I was hearing that ride quality is great and this and that so Something is just not right and I will figure this out if it kills me!

Maybe I should have went with strut/spring combo instead? I want it to be lower, like 2.5"+ lower in front especially, but not a bouncy mess.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:50 PM   #32
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Well another call to H&R and I got the exact measurement spots. I need to recheck all that, move it more within the range to be positive I am in the range. He said this experience is not a characteristic of these and should not be happening if I'm in that range....if I'm too low out of range I could experience the bump stops , if too high I could damage springs and top out shock. So.. this is a real mystery. Well I will push up into range 5 mm and see what happens. Then keep plugging along. Doesn't seem like anyone else has this problem with these. ..I do have the upgrade curse so I will also chalk it up to this lol
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:19 PM   #33
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Just a thought. Is it possible to be experiencing too much preload in the sway bar
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverbullet7 View Post
Just a thought. Is it possible to be experiencing too much preload in the sway bar
or just TOO MUCH swaybar......people are stupid...and run too big a swaybars thinking it is gonna do some voodoo magic to their cars

they are right....makes the ride for ****.....thats what too much swaybar voodoo does

bloody idiots
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:34 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by silverbullet7 View Post
haha wow really are they that bad??? lol

What are the obvious differences? ? Better response? I do feel somewhat of a mushiness is the steering now..almost like a delay in response.... I was considering replacing them at some point ..sort of tapped out at the moment

Also what changes if the rear tops are also replaced? Just wondering?
OK....if uncle was to come into posession of any new to him wrx.....getting rid of the stock front strut tops would be in the top 5 or so things he would buy....depending on what NEED attention most quickly.....brakes and tires notwithstanding


hows that for a recommendation to get rid of them??

rear tops dont make any real difference....but the front DO!!!
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:59 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
OK....if uncle was to come into posession of any new to him wrx.....getting rid of the stock front strut tops would be in the top 5 or so things he would buy....depending on what NEED attention most quickly.....brakes and tires notwithstanding


hows that for a recommendation to get rid of them??

rear tops don't make any real difference....but the front DO!!!
Um.. well first off its new to "her" WRX btw lol.. but more important I took your advice and changed both front and rear tops to Group N. SIGNIFICANT IMPROVEMENT! !!!!! Finally its a ride that I don't' hate by the end! There is much reduced "after bounce" then before. I will take the harsher road noise (and its not really that loud or harsh) over the sea sick bounce...I had originally thought they were the problem based on the description they had but a lot of people said no except for you lol.
So I wasted a months of my life trying to figure it out and it really was just that! I was also REALLLY low initially but in the moral is ...yes coilovers will not have quite the cushy ride of OEM WRX springs...and that is a given...but...

the WRX and STI original tops are different so 04 WRX owners MUST CHANGE THESE AS UNCLE SCOTTY SAYS!! I have a 70 mile commute one way with plenty of time to evaluate both the OEM WRX tops and now GROUP N tops. GROUP N FTW~
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:26 PM   #37
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I know this thread has been beat but what was the suggested height from H&R?
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:43 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by imprezkid View Post
I know this thread has been beat but what was the suggested height from H&R?

Looking at the spec sheet right now.. THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE for spec is LIMITED.

6.299 Inch to 7.08661 inches from center of top strut bolt.. That's the top bolt on the bottom where the Camber bolt is.. That's a 20mm range in the front


Rear is 8.464IN to 9.0551 in from center of top strut bolt.. That's only a 15mm range of lowering in the rear

IN=inches..

Basically not much range for lowering it to be in what it recommends to prevent it from being bouncy/etc.. So yea you can lower it a lot more.. But its gonna ride like crap and also it says YOU VOID YOUR WARRANTY if you don't follow the guidelines provided by it

Last edited by Dat8687; 09-04-2013 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:06 PM   #39
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Yeah, with a drastic spring rate change like that your dampers need to be valved for the change or they will work like crap. I don't know why companies don't recommend it when people request serious spring rate changes. Consider getting them revalved or swapping springs.
The stock top mounts do suck, but won't cause bounciness like what you've described. But yeah it should be high on your list to replace these after you fix the springs/dampers.

Do you track this car?
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Old 09-06-2013, 02:00 AM   #40
Dat8687
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Ok I just checked my front H&R coilover setting and I was well below the recommended range.. I was at around 5.8 inches from the camber bolt center.. Basically im guessing I was squishing the bumpstop?

Anyway I raised it up to 6.5 inches from the center of the camber bolt which is within spec now..

6.299 is the lowest you can go on the coilover on the front to be within range.. And anything above about 7.1 is too high and out of the range as well.

I will drive it tomorrow and see if that helped my situation any.. If it drives the same I might as well lower it back down.. otherwise I don't see the point of the coilovers lol.

Right now im at 14.0-14.1 inches exactly from hub center to fender in front.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:55 AM   #41
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Ok it worked.. The spec sheet was right Im at the lower end of it and its at least 10x better than before.. If I raised it up a little more I can only imagine it would be even smoother.

I don't feel like im hitting bumpstops anymore and I actually drove fast over some bigger bumps that I would of never done before and it felt just as smooth as stock
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