Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday October 23, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-29-2012, 09:22 PM   #26
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

tldr: It started once and ran fine with a new fuel pump controller (see video) but then went back to sucking. Which line do I tee into to test the fuel pressure (see picture)? I think the problem is electrical and related to the fuel pump. Thoughts?

Ok so my progress on the car has been glacially slow, but I've managed to do a few things. I was convinced that it was either the fuel pump controller or the immobilizer so I bought a used fuel pump controller and a used ECU/key/ignition cylinder/immobilizer (from the same car) on ebay to try out. First I installed the fuel pump controller. Started it once and it died, as usual. Started it again and it ran fine, and showed no signs of dying. There was white smoke coming out of the exhaust and I wasn't sure if it was just condensation or signs of something bad. It was about 55deg F outside that day. Video here (sorry for the crappy angle):


Any thoughts?

Anyway I shut it off (bad idea) and started it again and it died, just like it used to. Then I tried just the new ECU by itself and it was a totally different set of problems. The security light came on and the car turned over but never fired once. I swapped it back and the car went back to starting up and then dying like it had been. This leads me to believe that its not the immobilizer. Also, it was basically on E and it had been sitting for a while so I filled it up with gas. Started it again with new gas, same thing.

Now I want to check the fuel pressure, but I'm not sure which line is the high pressure line. Can anyone tell me (I think those are the fuel lines...)?




Also, whenever it dies, the fuel pump starts making a loud funny sound right before the car dies (will post video). I monitored fuel pump duty with the green test connectors connected and it had no problem going from 0% to 33% to 100% and back to 0%, and it sounded just fine (and quiet). The dealership replaced the whole fuel pump unit recently so I don't think it's a bad pump. Also, the one time I was able to start it and keep it running, the car ran fine, and the fuel pump was quiet as a church mouse. Also, I did short the cigarette lighter socket shortly before the starting problems began. I think the problem is something electrical but I don't know where to look. Any ideas?

Line A is the fuel feed line. (43.5 PSI, car off)
Line B is the fuel return line. (0 PSI, car off)
Line C is the fuel vent line.
Now I know. Now you know.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by LaffyTaffy; 12-13-2012 at 06:50 PM. Reason: I learned it!
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 09:00 PM   #27
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboynextdoor View Post
Theres at least three of us guys having the same problem on rs25.com right now...

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f13-troubleshooting

You'd think with this many people having problems we could hatch a solution.
Thanks for the link. I tried a new (used) MAF from ebay, as in the thread above, but no luck (it actually seems to have made things worse). Granted, I had no screws holding the MAF in place because I stripped them trying to get them out, but it's all I could do at the moment. I'll get some more screws and try again. Until then, anyone have any thoughts?

Anyone?
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 11:20 AM   #28
tuzzio
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 292532
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Southwick, Ma
Vehicle:
05 STI
PSM

Default

Those screws for the MAF sensor suck. Been there done that. It made it worse because you're sucking air there as well. It's metered air. Dont rule that out until its properly secured down

Edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaffyTaffy View Post
Also, I did short the cigarette lighter socket shortly before the starting problems began. I think the problem is something electrical but I don't know where to look. Any ideas?
Did you pull each and every fuse under the engine bay and behind the change holder and see if any are bad? That's a good starting point.
tuzzio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 06:01 PM   #29
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

I'll give it a try. How do I test fuses?
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 07:03 PM   #30
mechatricity
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 290592
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Charlotte, NC
Vehicle:
04 & 06 WRX Wagons
'15 WRX 6MT CWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LaffyTaffy View Post
I'll give it a try. How do I test fuses?
Either with a cheap fuse tester, or just take a good look at them- it's pretty obvious when they're blown, the metal will be separated in the center.
mechatricity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 07:41 PM   #31
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Thanks for the tip.

Ok, I checked all the fuses in the box on the driver's side of the engine bay and in the compartment under the steering wheel. Are those the only two fuse locations? I checked all the normal looking thin fuses (10, 15, 20, 30) but there were a bunch of fatter looking things that may or may not have been fuses. Some of them were transparent on top, so I made sure that the metal bits inside were intact, but I didn't know what to do about the opaque ones. All the fuses I looked at checked out.

Any other thoughts?

How do I test the fuel pressure?

Jumper the fuel pump relay lines together?
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 08:42 PM   #32
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

New MAF screws. No luck.

Anyone?
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 09:00 PM   #33
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Here is video (mostly audio) of the fuel pump during a few starts:


Every time the car dies, its accompanied by that awful fuel pump noise. Anyone know what that is? Occasionally it'll run fine for a few seconds before it starts making that sound. It seems like as soon as it starts making that sound though, the car dies.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 11:14 PM   #34
holyjoetart
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 232986
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Rock Springs, WY
Vehicle:
07 Legacy GT
OBP

Default

Sounds like you need to pull out your fuel pump and inspect for any blockage on the outlet and suction side. I would also make sure your fuel lines aren't crossed.

Kind of a shot in the dark, but it would be a good place to start.
holyjoetart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2012, 06:15 PM   #35
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Will do.
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 04:03 PM   #36
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Finally tested the fuel pressure and these were the results:

Note: the marks on the gauge are 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, etc... PSI. If I understand the fuel system correctly, shouldn't the pressure stay at 43.5 psi? There was no fuel leaking from the lines going to the gauge, so does that mean its leaking out of the injectors or the FPR? It seems like the FPR is working at least partially correctly, because it holds pressure at 43.5 PSI. I think the lack of pressure explains the hard start but not the stalling. You can also see that when the fuel pump starts sounding weird, it doesn't generate as much pressure.

Any thoughts?

Next up is visual inspection of the fuel pump assembly (and maybe I'll actually start the car with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up).

Last edited by LaffyTaffy; 12-08-2012 at 05:16 PM.
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 10:38 PM   #37
holyjoetart
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 232986
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Rock Springs, WY
Vehicle:
07 Legacy GT
OBP

Default

You could also try bypassing your fuel pump controller to see if your controller is failing.

If that doesn't work, it might be time to buy a new pump
holyjoetart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 11:17 PM   #38
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LaffyTaffy View Post
Finally tested the fuel pressure and these were the results:
Fuel Pressure Test

Note: the marks on the gauge are 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, etc... PSI. If I understand the fuel system correctly, shouldn't the pressure stay at 43.5 psi? There was no fuel leaking from the lines going to the gauge, so does that mean its leaking out of the injectors or the FPR? It seems like the FPR is working at least partially correctly, because it holds pressure at 43.5 PSI. I think the lack of pressure explains the hard start but not the stalling. You can also see that when the fuel pump starts sounding weird, it doesn't generate as much pressure.

Any thoughts?

Next up is visual inspection of the fuel pump assembly (and maybe I'll actually start the car with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up).

If I was seeing that right and your fuel pressure was dropping to 0 every time the pump finished priming you're pump assembly / the internal check valve is no good. The thing should prime and HOLD fuel pressure, i.e. after you prime it and or come home and shut the car off, if you took fuel lines off, expect to get sprayed with gas. If that thing is going back to 0 that quick, your pump assembly needs replacing.

I think your key here was you saying the "dealer replaced the pump assembly not too long ago" -- ever have a problem like this before that replacement?

Get a walbro, might as well upgrade while your at it, and my money's on the problem going away, assuming I'm reading that gauge right.

I have a strong feeling that noise is the internal gears in your fuel pump having stripped out, pressure dropping to zero, and bam, no more fuel.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2012, 08:30 PM   #39
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnyquest View Post
The thing should prime and HOLD fuel pressure
That's what I thought.




Quote:
Originally Posted by johnyquest View Post
the internal check valve is no good
Is the check valve inside the pump or is it part of the pump assembly? In other words, will upgrading to a Walbro pump fix the problem (~$80) or do I need a whole new pump assembly (~$500)?
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #40
johnyquest
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 258723
Join Date: Sep 2010
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LaffyTaffy View Post
That's what I thought.






Is the check valve inside the pump or is it part of the pump assembly? In other words, will upgrading to a Walbro pump fix the problem (~$80) or do I need a whole new pump assembly (~$500)?

Correctly installed new pump should do it.
johnyquest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2012, 01:08 PM   #41
LaffyTaffy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 235719
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pooler, GA
Vehicle:
2006 STI
WRB

Default

Used fuel pump assy from ebay and SHE LIVES!!! Thanks so much to everyone for all the help!!!
LaffyTaffy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 04:14 PM   #42
roadtrip1098
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 185688
Join Date: Jul 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2006 STi
WR Blue

Default

I just bought an 06 STi same color, same symptom, dealer replaced the fuel pump, runs great now.
roadtrip1098 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 05:13 PM   #43
holyjoetart
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 232986
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Rock Springs, WY
Vehicle:
07 Legacy GT
OBP

Default

Good to hear!
holyjoetart is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.