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Old 03-12-2011, 10:02 PM   #26
boost4life
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I figure by letting the oil drain at least 15 minutes i'm getting more oil out then most people are. I usually open the valve and find something to do for 15 minutes or so.
I also can tell you almost all Caterpillar engines have a similar design FUMOTO type valve.
They come this way from the factory.
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:40 PM   #27
jetski247
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lol........i thought we were talking about ways to get all the oil out, yes, i don't change my oil every time with those methods but if i have the vacuum pump already out from another change then i just use it. and assuming that we have 80ml left in the pan and tilting the car spilled out 20ml, thats a good percentage but overkill no doubt.

the tilting the car was a joke, really.

i wouldn't worry about the 80-100ml left in the bottom of the pan either.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:17 PM   #28
subime4life
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What way is the crush washer supposed to face? I'm having slight leak at the drain plug and I believe I may have put it on wrong.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:29 AM   #29
scby rex
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sounds like if the op cant stop the leak maybe its time for a new oil pan.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:16 AM   #30
island boyeee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subime4life View Post
What way is the crush washer supposed to face? I'm having slight leak at the drain plug and I believe I may have put it on wrong.
I always put the flat side against the bolt. That way the side that crushes can conform to the shape of the oil pan.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:45 PM   #31
subime4life
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And you've had no leaks?
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:56 PM   #32
island boyeee
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nope. sometimes i give it a tiny extra crank if need be
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost4life View Post
This thing is awsome no more mess or burned hands http://fumotousa.com/
[quote] is turning a wrench 1/4 a turn too much work?

putting that in the drain hole gives it the added thickness to the hole and traps more oil in the pan... if you want to remove as much old oil every oil change, don't put anything in the drain hole... [quote]

I've never had a problem with the valve drain plug. I just maybe use half a quart just to make sure I get all the excess grime oil in the pan and my pans clean
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:30 PM   #34
sreggie101
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didn't want to start a new thread. but i just did my first oil change a couple days ago and found today that there was an oil leak. really small. but found the small puddle and looked under just now and found a drop dangling from the oil drain plug. suggestions? car is brand new. im seeing some people had an issue with the old washer that is impossible to notice unless u were looking for it?

kind of feel like a lame since an oil change is an easy thing to do. im sure i tightened the plug all the way without ODing on torque. but if an old washer is in the way then i lose my oil right?

NM didnt find my oem washer on my oem plug (replaced with magnetic plug) so im pretty sure i have two washers on my car...problem solved i guess.

Last edited by sreggie101; 12-04-2012 at 09:56 PM.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:01 PM   #35
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I would suggest a new drainplug, they do not have the washer painted to them, this way you know for certain that you are only using one gasket, not two
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:40 AM   #36
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If you tighten it too much you will warp the Oil pan its self! When you crank on the drain plug like hulk would.... you end up twisting the actual threaded piece that is welded to the inside of the pan. This distorts the outside of the pan and thus.... a leak that will never stop. There are only 3 small spot welds that hold the threaded part to the inside of the pan, its very easy to twist it and distort the sealing area just enough to cause a leak.

Picture of what happens when people over tighten or try to reuse the crush washer and it leaks so they tighten it more.

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Old 12-05-2012, 11:58 AM   #37
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I would suggest a new drainplug, they do not have the washer painted to them, this way you know for certain that you are only using one gasket, not two
the magnetic plus i used has a separate washer. does the OEM not come with a washer or are you saying its part of the plug?

Quote:
Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
If you tighten it too much you will warp the Oil pan its self! When you crank on the drain plug like hulk would.... you end up twisting the actual threaded piece that is welded to the inside of the pan. This distorts the outside of the pan and thus.... a leak that will never stop. There are only 3 small spot welds that hold the threaded part to the inside of the pan, its very easy to twist it and distort the sealing area just enough to cause a leak.

Picture of what happens when people over tighten or try to reuse the crush washer and it leaks so they tighten it more.

hoping that isn't the case. will look this weekend. out of curiosity what would it cost to repair that? can i put the OEM plug back in and get it covered under warranty?
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:19 PM   #38
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I would use one round of teflon tape..
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:55 PM   #39
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Did my first change, had the drip, took the plug out and changed again. Took the new crush washer I just used off. Then took a box cutter around the rim of the bolt, broke the paint seal and voila, factory crush washer broke loose. No more leaks
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:02 PM   #40
sreggie101
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found that the aftermarket magnetic plug wasn't fitting in snug as i had imagined. putting the OEM plug back in stopped the leak easy. oh well.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:10 AM   #41
UK-Wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreggie101 View Post
hoping that isn't the case. will look this weekend. out of curiosity what would it cost to repair that? can i put the OEM plug back in and get it covered under warranty?
No, warpage is not covered under warranty! They don't warp on their own, its purely from over tightening. The repair is $87 for a new pan and 1.5 hrs labor @ what ever the shop rate is of that shop.
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