Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday August 21, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
Click here to visit TireRack
Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack

Losing traction? Need new tires?
Click here to visit the NASIOC Upgrade Garage...
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Brakes, Steering & Suspension

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-17-2012, 08:33 PM   #51
BlackFighter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 193940
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Philly
Vehicle:
2004 WRX STI Black
RalliSpec Shortblock

Default

Subscribed
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
BlackFighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 10:57 PM   #52
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 Wrx wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

14 bucks well spent.
Bikelok is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 02:14 AM   #53
bonesetter
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 285417
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region: International
Location: UK
Vehicle:
1997 Type R
Sonic blue

Default

What effect does locking have 'down the line'? In particular, I understand trailing arm bushings have a harder time of things...
bonesetter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 07:31 PM   #54
bsdoig
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 199980
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Statesville, NC
Vehicle:
2005 VF39'ed WRX
OBP

Default

Anyone have issues with the lockdown bolts not torquing up? I tried to torque to like 30ft-lbs and the just keep going in and won't tighten?
bsdoig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 07:52 PM   #55
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 Wrx wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
you dont quite understand the issue, here

lotsa d0000ds gonna snap off the captured nuts in the subframe tryin this.....lots and lots

and this is one of those things that is NOT easy to fix....but REAL-REAL easy to **** up because of rust in the threads of the captured nut....and once the captured nut snaps off...ya cant get the bolt out without dropping the subframe...even if ya cut the bolt head off....and then it will rattle

have fun
^^^bsdoig, this is what probably happened to you. You have to be VERY VERY careful that the threads are clean and you can thread it in with your hand all the way before using a wrench.
Good luck.

Last edited by Bikelok; 05-04-2012 at 08:01 PM.
Bikelok is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 07:55 PM   #56
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 Wrx wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonesetter View Post
What effect does locking have 'down the line'? In particular, I understand trailing arm bushings have a harder time of things...
From what I understand many many people have run them for tens of thousands of miles with no issues.
Bikelok is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 08:55 PM   #57
bsdoig
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 199980
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Statesville, NC
Vehicle:
2005 VF39'ed WRX
OBP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
^^^bsdoig, this is what probably happened to you. You have to be VERY VERY careful that the threads are clean and you can thread it in with your hand all the way before using a wrench.
Good luck.
No I don't think so…….I was able to pull he bolts right back out without any issues. Threads were tapped and clean. I could run the bolt by itself all the way through without any issues. It was like where the brass meets the subframe it was just collapsing and wouldn't get tight. I'm gonna leave them off for now since I didn't like the way they felt when tightening.

What are they suppose to be tightened to?
bsdoig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 10:40 PM   #58
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

As Uncle Scotty said, you got to be really careful when installing these bolts... perhaps I used too much force when installing the bolt, which resulted in bolt freely spinning (bracket weld snapped).

Luckily it's not vibrating or anything.

Great write up.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2012, 01:25 AM   #59
bonesetter
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 285417
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region: International
Location: UK
Vehicle:
1997 Type R
Sonic blue

Default

I think it's important to chase out these threads before install to avoid this issue
bonesetter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 10:06 AM   #60
sackytar
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 149262
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Vehicle:
03WR Rally/XTDD/98SJ
PrimerGrey

Default

So important to chase them out.
sackytar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 12:04 PM   #61
bako
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 226211
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Europe
Vehicle:
2002 impreza WRX JDM
blue

Default

I made the same diy mod.
bought 2 bolts for 2$, then bought brass material for 10$ and then machining for 5$.

it made big difference! when my 02wrx rear was sliding away on tail braking in some specific conrners, in the same corners after lockdown bolts + front anti lift kit I had almost no rear slide, very controllable corner entry oversteer/understeer. I feel I'm not loosing rear camber when high side loads...
bako is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 09:15 PM   #62
choiboi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 126614
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Vehicle:
2006 WRB WRX TR
OS Stage 2

Default

What torque specs should we torque the bolts to once they are in? Kartboy's seem to be at 60lbft. Would it be the same? Great DIY thanx
choiboi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 09:16 PM   #63
sackytar
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 149262
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Vehicle:
03WR Rally/XTDD/98SJ
PrimerGrey

Default

You do not want to over tourque these btw.
sackytar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:06 PM   #64
peanutswagon
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 197057
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Collegeville, Pa
Vehicle:
1997 98 Foz V3 swap
Black

Default

Where did you purchase the bolt smd flange from???
peanutswagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:07 PM   #65
peanutswagon
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 197057
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Collegeville, Pa
Vehicle:
1997 98 Foz V3 swap
Black

Default

Im a machinist... if i have to I can machine the flanges out of any material... brass specific?
peanutswagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:09 PM   #66
Soul Shinobi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 130759
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Nashua, NH, USA
Vehicle:
2002 Forester S

Default

I got some from McMaster Carr, brass is easy to find the right size in but stainless steel would probably be ideal.
Soul Shinobi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:20 PM   #67
sackytar
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 149262
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Vehicle:
03WR Rally/XTDD/98SJ
PrimerGrey

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by peanutswagon View Post
Where did you purchase the bolt smd flange from???
Fastenal has em.
sackytar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:21 PM   #68
sackytar
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 149262
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Vehicle:
03WR Rally/XTDD/98SJ
PrimerGrey

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by peanutswagon View Post
Im a machinist... if i have to I can machine the flanges out of any material... brass specific?
You can make em out of whatever you want.
sackytar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2012, 01:15 AM   #69
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by peanutswagon View Post
Im a machinist... if i have to I can machine the flanges out of any material... brass specific?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sackytar View Post
You can make em out of whatever you want.

i would try brass first as it is self lubricating which may reduce future issues

my whiteline bolts have been in my 06 wrx for almost 100k miles and Im not aware of any issues and my alignments dont 'wander'......which leads me to think all is well
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2012, 01:47 AM   #70
chet.wrb
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 255375
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Grover Beach, CA
Vehicle:
2003 Wagon w/cxr550
Built Motor and all. WRB

Default

I would say Delrin would be the ideal material. I have since made some for mine out of Delrin just to cut back on some of the rear diff whine I hear from the solid bushings back there. Brass would be my second choice.
chet.wrb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 03:29 AM   #71
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chet.wrb View Post
I would say Delrin would be the ideal material. I have since made some for mine out of Delrin just to cut back on some of the rear diff whine I hear from the solid bushings back there. Brass would be my second choice.

d00000d...the whiteline bolts are straight steel and they dont make any noise or have anything to do with rear diff whine

THAT is something else....

i think people have a misconception of what is really being done here
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 09:50 AM   #72
chet.wrb
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 255375
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Grover Beach, CA
Vehicle:
2003 Wagon w/cxr550
Built Motor and all. WRB

Default

The rear diff is mounted in the rear sub frame with rubber bushings, so you never hear the whine. With my car, I made solid bushings to make it have no more play in it. The combination of the rear diff being mounted solid to the subframe, and the subframe being solid to the rest of the car using these lockdown bolts, made it so I could hear the rear diff loud and clear at cruising speed on the highway. Once I made the subframe lockdown bushings out of Delrin, now I can barely hear the rear diff at all.

The difference is that I don't think anyone has mounted the rear diff solid to the rear subframe like I have. Yea, the polyurethane bushings for the rear diff would probably work better, but I already did mine solid, and I love the response of the rear end now.
chet.wrb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 01:47 PM   #73
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chet.wrb View Post
The rear diff is mounted in the rear sub frame with rubber bushings, so you never hear the whine. With my car, I made solid bushings to make it have no more play in it. The combination of the rear diff being mounted solid to the subframe, and the subframe being solid to the rest of the car using these lockdown bolts, made it so I could hear the rear diff loud and clear at cruising speed on the highway. Once I made the subframe lockdown bushings out of Delrin, now I can barely hear the rear diff at all.

The difference is that I don't think anyone has mounted the rear diff solid to the rear subframe like I have. Yea, the polyurethane bushings for the rear diff would probably work better, but I already did mine solid, and I love the response of the rear end now.
which is why....oh forget it
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 02:04 PM   #74
chet.wrb
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 255375
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Grover Beach, CA
Vehicle:
2003 Wagon w/cxr550
Built Motor and all. WRB

Default

Sorry Scotty, I'm not trying to argue with you. I just prefer the Delrin. All steel works also.
chet.wrb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leave in Rear Subframe Lockdown Bolts forever? paulpat Brakes, Steering & Suspension 11 01-03-2011 10:42 AM
FS : Whiteline Subframe Lockdown Bolts SOLD! andrewp724 Suspension/Brakes/Handling 8 10-04-2010 09:29 PM
Help with subframe lockdown bolt install kmook Brakes, Steering & Suspension 11 10-19-2009 12:03 AM
Brand New Perrin Rear Subframe Lockdown Kit whitneyas Suspension/Brakes/Handling 2 07-28-2008 01:29 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.