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Old 09-07-2012, 08:40 PM   #26
rexworx
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WOW keep up the great work man...
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:06 PM   #27
dwx
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AN brake lines are not double flared, those are SAE flares.

I converted mine to all AN because the tools are cheaper and it's easier to do the flares. You can get some nice RIDGID tools for about $120 or so for a bender and the flaring tool.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwx View Post
AN brake lines are not double flared, those are SAE flares.

I converted mine to all AN because the tools are cheaper and it's easier to do the flares. You can get some nice RIDGID tools for about $120 or so for a bender and the flaring tool.
Im really not sure what your getting at. I understand that you can buy a cheaper tool to do the job.

ISO flares (ISO Bubble) , SAE flares ( Double flare) , Din ( Mushroom ) are the standard that is used for / by OEM past and or present .

The tube nuts and collars that I used for my brake system called for a double flare. First the single flare then the roll over of the collar into it self.

Last edited by Darcros; 09-09-2012 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:13 AM   #29
Darcros
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More plumbing parts .

Proportioning valve installed

Sparco wheel with release Installed.



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Old 09-09-2012, 03:15 AM   #30
Darcros
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As we sit right now. Engine bay area.
-6 lines ran to front of bay.
Some odd and other ends added .


By christoypher at 2012-09-09
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:16 AM   #31
Darcros
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexworx View Post
WOW keep up the great work man...
THANK YOU
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Old 09-15-2012, 02:55 PM   #32
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Taking her over to my friends shop for the engine install . Full build 2.5 for some e85 madness.




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Old 09-15-2012, 03:14 PM   #33
BlueSTI4Me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darcros View Post
The must have tool for doing the hard A/N Brake lines. IMO . ( Double flare )

The hydraulic tool makes the job much more simple.

The Mastercool deluxe Master Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool Kit

Lucky mi amigo had one of these i could barrow. The price tag is a bit scary but after using the tool is worth every penny.







Yesssirrrrrrrrrrrr^^^^^
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:19 PM   #34
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:28 PM   #35
Rex_Revo
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You should weld the rear doors... You can't use the back anyway.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darcros View Post
The start of the engine bay brake line assembly.

Those adapters and the flare you show in the picture donít match up. Those inverted to AN flare adapters on the MC donít require a double flare at all, they are single AN flare 37 degree. You had the right tool and could have done the inverted flare right into the MC had you used the original tube nuts. What the other poster was saying is for std AN flares the Ridged tool for 120$ is hands down faster and easier to use when doing lots of single AN flares, they even have one for inverted flares. Canít tell if you used stainless or not but typically the rule is with steel line you double flare, and with stainless you can get away with single flare. I own the Master Cool, and both Ridged tools.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:02 PM   #37
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With the ABS removed what DCCD controller are you planning on using?
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:32 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Token-Negro View Post
With the ABS removed what DCCD controller are you planning on using?
JDM 6Speed. Kaaz Diff. No DCCD.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:35 PM   #39
Darcros
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Token-Negro View Post
Those adapters and the flare you show in the picture donít match up. Those inverted to AN flare adapters on the MC donít require a double flare at all, they are single AN flare 37 degree. You had the right tool and could have done the inverted flare right into the MC had you used the original tube nuts. What the other poster was saying is for std AN flares the Ridged tool for 120$ is hands down faster and easier to use when doing lots of single AN flares, they even have one for inverted flares. Canít tell if you used stainless or not but typically the rule is with steel line you double flare, and with stainless you can get away with single flare. I own the Master Cool, and both Ridged tools.
I took the picture off. The picture was just confusing every one.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:06 PM   #40
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Any way the build is continuing . More pics will be up soon ..


Last edited by Darcros; 03-15-2013 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:00 PM   #41
Ballistic1350
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Looking good! mind showing us where your mounting your battery and kill switch?
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:46 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Ballistic1350 View Post
Looking good! mind showing us where your mounting your battery and kill switch?
The battery will be in the stock location. Will use a Odyssey Lightweight battery. The Switch will be located on the "A" pillar of the drivers side. (NASA,SCCA common location) No need to relocate the battery and add cable weight .
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:24 PM   #43
hmnewtech
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mad looking car, and with the planned set up it's going to be a beast.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:40 PM   #44
boostjuice
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what an amazing, jealousy inducing build!

Great work on that cage! cant wait to see the rest!!!!
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:51 PM   #45
KillerRabbit
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Nice build! Love the cage, i wanna see the rest of the interior in!
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:22 AM   #46
Scargod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjfubar101 View Post
Got to have interior for alot of rules in different series unless you want to jump to the next class
You say track days, but what series/classes/sanctioning bodies are you trying to fit into?
I am most curious about what you are doing for your built engine. Any specs?
Surprised you don't put battery in the back for balance and to clean up the engine bay.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:03 AM   #47
Darcros
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
You say track days, but what series/classes/sanctioning bodies are you trying to fit into?
I am most curious about what you are doing for your built engine. Any specs?
Surprised you don't put battery in the back for balance and to clean up the engine bay.
Following along the lines of showroom stock for interior. ( SCCA/ NASA )
Engine will be mostly all stock. Unlimited on exhaust. E85.
We run light weight Odyssey batteries. 12-15 lbs. Why add all that cable? (Weight )
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:27 AM   #48
Bullet Bob
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Nice job.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:55 PM   #49
Patrick L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darcros View Post
Following along the lines of showroom stock for interior. ( SCCA/ NASA )
Engine will be mostly all stock. Unlimited on exhaust. E85.
We run light weight Odyssey batteries. 12-15 lbs. Why add all that cable? (Weight )
I say STU.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:14 PM   #50
Himynameisgreg
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Why full interior? BECAUSE SHOW CAR!!

haha j/k
looking good, i'll be following this build. good luck!
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