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Old 09-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #51
WhiteoutRally
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxpunk

Thanks sureshot! I agree redundancy is a good thing and would like it for that fact. The brake I bought does indeed lock.
And I am from Wyoming... What's an inspection? we've never had them and probably never will.
We only have the locking hydro in ours, many of the cars don't have the cable any more. Not problems here in NASA or RA or DMV
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:09 PM   #52
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NY's inspection requires a cable locking parking/emergency brake. Not all places actually test it, but they can fail it for lack of one.
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:13 AM   #53
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Spent today reinstalling the interior and seems to be going smoothly. Started running wiring harnesses and mounting the new pedal box. The factory handbrake can actually be mounted with some slight overlap on the hydro unit. I like the idea of redundancy.

Does anyone have suggestions for side mount seat rails that have a longer (fore/aft) adjustment range than the traditional sparco/sabelt mounts? I need to move back just a little more because of the new pedal box, but not enough that I want to cut out the mounts that are welded in.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:41 AM   #54
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You could always just weld a piece of 1/4" flat stock to the "mounts" you have, going front to back on each side, and then bolt the seat to that piece.
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Old 09-22-2012, 02:37 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sureshot007
You could always just weld a piece of 1/4" flat stock to the "mounts" you have, going front to back on each side, and then bolt the seat to that piece.
I would avoid doing anything like this with seats. Your life depends on them holding up to crazy forces, and any "extending" beyond a full bracket just isn't worth it in my opinion. Not a place to cut corners if you ask me
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:24 AM   #56
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I would agree with you....except for the fact that 1/4" flat stock is going to be stronger than the brackets that come with most seats.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:27 AM   #57
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Darn phone triple screw up....

Last edited by bmxpunk; 09-23-2012 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:28 AM   #58
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[quote="bmxpunk"]I was thinking something more along these lines

http://www.sparcousa.com/product/side-mount-aluminum-0
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:31 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxpunk
I was thinking something more along these lines
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:35 AM   #60
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I am getting close. I spent Sunday laying in the wiring harnesses and installing the transmission and rear diff.

It's down to brake lines, struts and a few little bits to tie up.

One thing I am wondering is how others are wiring in the battery kill switch. I have seen a few ways of killing power from the alternator, and I am wondering which will cause the least stress on the ecu.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:14 AM   #61
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I don't have one.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:31 AM   #62
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I am so close! I spent the weekend running the new brake lines. I also installed new Tilton master cylinders to replace the 4 girling units.

Suspension goes in this week! I just might make the last rallycross in Colorado and get some much needed shakedown time!


Also had a nice write up from the guys over at gearbox magazine. Check it out at http://gearboxmagazine.com/tyler-patik/
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:18 PM   #63
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Mind posting up some pics of your pedalbox? I'm trying to decide whether to go with floor mount or overhung/firewall mount for my build. The main thing I'm worried about is clearance with the steering column.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:41 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxpunk
I am so close! I spent the weekend running the new brake lines. I also installed new Tilton master cylinders to replace the 4 girling units.

Suspension goes in this week! I just might make the last rallycross in Colorado and get some much needed shakedown time!

Also had a nice write up from the guys over at gearbox magazine. Check it out at http://gearboxmagazine.com/tyler-patik/
Suspension looks beefy.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:41 PM   #65
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I will but it will be after Friday. Headed to retrieve the wife's stolen scooter in another state.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:06 AM   #66
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Had my codriver weld up a plate on the pedal box for the clutch and brake switches.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:08 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by bmxpunk View Post
Hmm, I could use a pair of those.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:42 AM   #68
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Mind posting up some pics of your pedalbox? I'm trying to decide whether to go with floor mount or overhung/firewall mount for my build. The main thing I'm worried about is clearance with the steering column.
It is mighty close. But my feet still fit. I will have to move around some wiring. Pedal function is awesome. Clutch and brake pedal throw are both marginally shorter than stock but it feels really good.



This shows the linkage I had to make for the throttle pedal. The newer version of this pedal box wouldn't need it.

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Old 12-08-2012, 09:35 PM   #69
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Took the car for a drive before work this morning, and being Wyoming I left home in 50 degrees and sun to play on some gravel and the drive back to work was in inches of snow. All in the span of an hour. And in the course of 5 hours as you can see from the picture above, some of the snow even melted off.

So far without a complete tune or a full alignment, I am incredibly in love with the car. Was really impressed with Modena/Guard Transmission front diff over the Tarmac/gravel/ice/snow that I experienced on the way to work. I am still getting used to the non assisted brakes and will look for some brake pads with better initial bite. The current pads are fine with a half leg press but I think I can find better. Pedal feel is solid and doesn't travel very far at all.

I do have to change a few things on the car. I need to move the seat back a bit more and bring the wheel a little closer to me. I need to get some helper/take up springs for the rear suspension. After today a heater is a must! But the one I ordered from summit in November is back ordered until February. I think I will start there. I believe most North American teams don't use swaybars but I would like to try some and see what the difference would be, probably the smallest bars I could find. Hopefully I will have a few odds and ends tidied up tomorrow.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:45 PM   #70
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Made a temporary false floor and bracket for my brake and clutch reservoirs. Still waiting on my heater to show up from Europe.

I had to order a steering wheel spacer and some seat brackets to bring me back just a bit more, and still waiting on them to arrive.

Tomorrow it goes in for an alignment.

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Old 12-23-2012, 11:24 PM   #71
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Nice. You are giving me inspiration to get back in the garage and work on mine. Good call on the JVABs. I put mine through hell in my first 2.9 rallies. Sliding wide, clipping embankments, not slowing down for rough stuff, decent jumps, blasting through ditches. I bent the bilstein inserts when I rolled but the housings look just fine. It's nice to know he's just a phone call away to get it replaced(long phone call lol).

I ditched the stock ebrake. You might wish you had the first time you blow up a rear hub and need to swap to a spare. All that drum parking brake garbage, and the cables will double the time to replace. Plus you lighten each rear wheel by tossing that stuff. I never missed the stocker and Idaho doesn't have inspection either so win win win.

Where do you plan to do a stage rally? or is this a rallycross monster?

Last edited by biggreen96; 12-23-2012 at 11:30 PM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:05 AM   #72
bmxpunk
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Idaho is very high on my priority list. Snowdrift is my #1 to-do rally and my codriver wants to do 100 Acre Wood. As luck would have it, my wife is due with my first son right between those two this year so they will have to wait for another year, an probably 2 separate years.

I did ditch the factory handbrake for the very reasons you listed.

I took the car to the public scale today, and I was fairly amazed. Without a spare tire or tools in the car it weighed in at 2480lbs.

Noticed a few things today, under neutral throttle the front is a little darty it becomes stable under acceleration. I had an alignment Friday and I don't trust it. I requested factory camber with 0 toe all the way around, which is what we used on the open light car and I found I liked. After the alignment, The front wheels have what looks like positive camber and the rear have -2* approx with the level on my phone. 9 miles into the drive the right rear wheel slid and started to rub the strut. It's tough to find a reliable shop in Wyoming because they all believe subarus are throw away cars.

I also am not used to driving without sway bars so I am not sure if that is the difference or the alignment. I want to try a few swaybars to see what they are like. Our old car had an 18mm front and the hollow 17mm from a fxt in the rear. I am thinking of getting the Whiteline Com c mounts. That should solve my camber problem and give me the all important caster that JVAB talks about.
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:51 AM   #73
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By the way, has anyone else ever had the sparco mudflaps just shatter?!?!

Its cold here but I think it was 27* at the coldest while we were out today. When we stopped, there were just chunks missing so I guess it's time for new.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:16 AM   #74
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We've raced our car at -30F and never had a RallyArmor UR shatter.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:07 PM   #75
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By the way, has anyone else ever had the sparco mudflaps just shatter?!?!

Its cold here but I think it was 27* at the coldest while we were out today. When we stopped, there were just chunks missing so I guess it's time for new.
It can happen depending on the material. I can't justify spending the money on those "name brand" mudflaps when they don't work as well as a giant piece of $20 rubber.
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