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Old 12-07-2012, 06:09 PM   #26
teiva-boy
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Just make sure you verify with the manufacturer that you can change springs and what is the maximum you can deviate from the included set.
Go too soft or too firm, and the default valving will not be able to control the spring properly.
In most cases, about 2kg change +/- is about the max one could do before they have to be revalved internally.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:44 PM   #27
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ying View Post
It's not the RCE's that are the problem, it's the under-damped OEM struts that's killing you in the corners. They're just flat out awful.

and THIS is where the whole thing gets started

too many just put springs on...the wrong springs...and then blame poor results on the wrong things...and then think they need coilovers..which they dont

Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 12-08-2012 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:07 PM   #28
AndyRoo
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A lot of people don't like JIC on here (myself included) because of some spectacular failures, horrible customer service, and valving that is ultra stiff. Even race dampers need to be able to absorb bumps but JIC are just too firm in the wrong places.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:20 PM   #29
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Proper coilover use requires maintenance that standard spring/struts don't... . Again if you like to mess with your stuff all the time this is not so much an issue.
I've had coil-overs on my Mustang since the late 90s, my Subaru since 2003 or 2004, and my CTS-V since early 2009. What maintenance that standard springs/struts don't need am I supposed to be doing? I must have missed that memo.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:09 PM   #30
68Cadillac
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On a scale from 1 to Purple, I judge them Casaba.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:52 PM   #31
PleiadesSTi
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Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
On a scale from 1 to Purple, I judge them Casaba.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:28 PM   #32
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
I've had coil-overs on my Mustang since the late 90s, my Subaru since 2003 or 2004, and my CTS-V since early 2009. What maintenance that standard springs/struts don't need am I supposed to be doing? I must have missed that memo.
Sorry, I painted such a broad picture with my comment. My point is that all to often in crappy weather areas the collars seize up. Perches (if they come with them) make noise and need attention. Set up requires more thought too. People have a misconception that you can throw them on willy nilly and forget them. Oh, often the manufacturers have a short rebuild schedule too.
Many times people do not fully understand the products they buy and how to use them.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:32 PM   #33
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
I've had coil-overs on my Mustang since the late 90s, my Subaru since 2003 or 2004, and my CTS-V since early 2009. What maintenance that standard springs/struts don't need am I supposed to be doing? I must have missed that memo.

yu need to drive them in the snow and salt and rain and offroad and never put the car in the garage to get the best benifit

just like the idiots who buy the junk aluminum body coilovers do

then see how long they last

go ahead....try it and see for yourself...we'll wait
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:29 PM   #34
jaboyd
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I'm running coil-overs (AMR) on my 2011 STI with 450# frt and 375# rear springs and they're great for the street and moderate Auto-x work. However, my coil-over valving was matched to my spring rates. You should check w/mfg to see whether going to the lower rates is ok with the valving in the shock.

Remember that the overall "stiffness" is made up of the shocks, swaybars and any chassis bracing....and they affect each other. If you're going to run the 8k and 6k springs (assumming the valving is ok) then you need to run some bigger than stock swaybars...atleast 22mm front and rear......I run 24mm. My chassis bracing includes tower braces front and rear, H lower brace and GTspec rear A braces.

Overall my coil-over set up (with sways set at full stiff frt, middle in the rear) is for general street driving - rebound at 3 or 4 clicks (out of 8) off full soft in the front and 3 clicks in the rear. For hwy or long distance crusing I soften it up to 3 or even 2 frt, 2 rear. For aggressive driving on the streets I go 4 or 5 clicks front, and 3-4 clicks rear. For auto-x the rear sway bar goes to full hard, front to soft and I run the rear coil-overs at least at 5 to get rotation.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:38 PM   #35
caterpill
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The JIC's have too much compression damping by design as stated in many "my coilovers ride like **** are they broken?" threads.

If those coilovers that you have were revalved by JIC to accept the 10K springs (which they probably were), it would be somewhat of a waste to put softer springs only because it costs $$ for revalving service. You should leave them in and take em to the track, or sell them to someone who likes to drive around like jigglypuff.

It'll ride a bit "smoother", but not much as the main culprit is the compression valving, ie: the shocks do not want to "compress".

It's up to you, but most any other coilover out there besides JIC are a bit more forgiving in the daily drive.
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